snap-on KLR boxs ?

[outcast]

hello, guys. i'm new around here.

i am looking for a used box.

i went and looked at a matco 4s, pretty good condition. but idk if i like the equal drawers, and the divider. $1800, perhaps i could get him down a little, idk.
what did these go for off the truck, cash ?


there is a KLR-1001B that is local. i am going to go check it out asap.
its on craigslist, and the pics are not that good. so i can't speak for the condition. $2000 firm, but when money starts flashing around, who knows.

and there is a matco 5s. 2 wide drawers. idk how much i like the wide drawers*, as i have never used them before.
and this box looks sweet ! blue with black trim.
but at $2600 firm it is well above my already upped max of $2000

(*i have an old single bay, friction, snap-on, 8 drawer)


anyway
how old is the klr1001b ?
what is the difference between it and the newer model klr's. like the klr761.
they look the same to me.
and what makes them better, if they are, than the "classic 78" ?

thanx


i have never seen this smillie before, lol

 

[mrshaun]

the 1001 is at elast 5 years old. i do not remember the last model number exactly but I know the 1022 took it over about 5 years ago. if it has the round style key then it is not really old.
www.theundisputedchamp.com snap on box information

 

[Don 18]

The KRL761 is 24" deep, where the 1001, 7002, 7022 are 29" deep. As long as it fits in your work space look for a deeper box.

 

[Skyline]

The KRL boxes have ALWAYS been great boxes. The improvements over the years have been mostly cosmetic and drawer layout. Round key vs. flat key. Rounded side handle vs. angular side handle. Two wide drawers vs. one wide drawer. Some of the earlier KRLs I've seen have only one pair of slides on the double width drawer (most have had two pairs of slides to increase weight capacity for a while now), but you could always add a second set of slides. Drawer liner styles have changed slightly over the years as well, but on older boxes, you may want to replace liners anyway, (but these are not cheap!).

For $2k a KRL1001 should be in very clean condition (assuming red), and that's a fair price for buyer and seller. Mint 29" double bank boxes in colors other than red will fetch a bit more. But firm or not, almost everyone has a little wiggle room in their pricing, even if they say "firm".

 

[glenmore]

Wide drawers are awesome.

Keeping looking and be patient. Get an idea of the prices in your area. Members here have come away with some amazing bargains.

You have to go out and see some boxes. Some sellers have a strange interpretation of what "mint condition" means.

If you want something pretty specific, i.e. color , then you may have to pay up.

Finding one and actually getting it to your place is a chore so be picky. You don't want to do it again anytime soon. And unless you got a screaming price for a box, selling a box is not easy.

I would stick with SO boxes because IMHO they are a known quantity and are easier to resell if you ever decide to do so. If that is not a concern than I think used Listas can be found fairly cheap. They don't have the traditional look of a SO but they are tough and hold a ton of stuff.

 

[outcast]

the 1001 is at elast 5 years old. i do not remember the last model number exactly but I know the 1022 took it over about 5 years ago. if it has the round style key then it is not really old.
www.theundisputedchamp.com snap on box information

thanx

i watched that link of vids this morning. interesting

 

[outcast]

The KRL761 is 24" deep, where the 1001, 7002, 7022 are 29" deep. As long as it fits in your work space look for a deeper box.

interesting. i must have overlooked the 29" depth. that may be an issue.
as my box sits out in the open between 2 bays.

 

[outcast]

The KRL boxes have ALWAYS been great boxes. The improvements over the years have been mostly cosmetic and drawer layout. Round key vs. flat key. Rounded side handle vs. angular side handle. Two wide drawers vs. one wide drawer. Some of the earlier KRLs I've seen have only one pair of slides on the double width drawer (most have had two pairs of slides to increase weight capacity for a while now), but you could always add a second set of slides. Drawer liner styles have changed slightly over the years as well, but on older boxes, you may want to replace liners anyway, (but these are not cheap!).

For $2k a KRL1001 should be in very clean condition (assuming red), and that's a fair price for buyer and seller. Mint 29" double bank boxes in colors other than red will fetch a bit more. But firm or not, almost everyone has a little wiggle room in their pricing, even if they say "firm".

thanx. would you know about how much the liners are ? are there any alternative DIY linings that will work ?

yes, it is red.

 

[outcast]

Wide drawers are awesome.

Keeping looking and be patient. Get an idea of the prices in your area. Members here have come away with some amazing bargains.

You have to go out and see some boxes. Some sellers have a strange interpretation of what "mint condition" means.

If you want something pretty specific, i.e. color , then you may have to pay up.

Finding one and actually getting it to your place is a chore so be picky. You don't want to do it again anytime soon. And unless you got a screaming price for a box, selling a box is not easy.

I would stick with SO boxes because IMHO they are a known quantity and are easier to resell if you ever decide to do so. If that is not a concern than I think used Listas can be found fairly cheap. They don't have the traditional look of a SO but they are tough and hold a ton of stuff.

i sure hope so !!!

i have been looking (and learning about them) for about 2 weeks now. the inventory has dwindled in that time. and the prices are either about like this KLR box, or much higher. example : my rep told me $3200 for a new "classic 78". there is a guy on craigslist that wants $3200 for his. and a few other guys that are about that close. idk i they paid "list" for their boxs or what.

i know what you mean about seller condition descriptions.

color doesn't much matter . though cherry it would be if buying new.

i am going to put it in my S-10. i made ramps. and use a come-along to pull it up. at the shop, there is a chain drop. i am going to wrap our pull strap around the center of gravity, lift her a little, pull the truck out and lower it down. but yeah, i don't want to get into a habit of trying boxs.

thanx

 

[outcast]

here is what i am seeing. make sure you go to the bottom of each.

http://chicago.craigslist.org/search/tls?sort=pricedsc&query=tool box&srchType=T

oh look. there is ANOTHER classic 78 for near truck price. lombard
http://chicago.craigslist.org/search/tls?query=toolbox&srchType=T&minAsk=&maxAsk=&sort=pricedsc

 

[Skyline]

thanx. would you know about how much the liners are ? are there any alternative DIY linings that will work ?

yes, it is red.

Something like $180...but ask your dealer. And yes, there are lot's of alternatives, but not as many options for a 29" deep box.

 

[Skyline]

i sure hope so !!!

i have been looking (and learning about them) for about 2 weeks now. the inventory has dwindled in that time. and the prices are either about like this KLR box, or much higher. example : my rep told me $3200 for a new "classic 78". there is a guy on craigslist that wants $3200 for his. and a few other guys that are about that close. idk i they paid "list" for their boxs or what.

i know what you mean about seller condition descriptions.

color doesn't much matter . though cherry it would be if buying new.

i am going to put it in my S-10. i made ramps. and use a come-along to pull it up. at the shop, there is a chain drop. i am going to wrap our pull strap around the center of gravity, lift her a little, pull the truck out and lower it down. but yeah, i don't want to get into a habit of trying boxs.

thanx

You do realize that a KRL double bank is over 600 lbs??? That will be very tricky to get into the back of a pickup using a fairly steep ramp unless you have at least three strong friends helping. Since one pair of wheels steers, it will not necessarily want to take a staight path right up your ramps. Keep in mind that the bottom edges are just thin metal, so picking it up by a strap to get it off is not such a great idea either. You will damage the bottom edges.

A MUCH better plan would be to rent a 5X9 ramp trailer for $25/day from U-Haul. This is a very low trailer, so rolling it on and off is fairly easy. Heavy ratchet straps around the wheels, and a few lighter straps over the top and you're set. I move a lot of boxes, and this is a very easy way to do it.

A flatbed rollback can work too, but I see a lot of boxes that have been damaged by this process as well, (again at the weak bottom edge.) The transition from ground to rollback is too steep, (you need some sort of wood ramp) and a lot of drivers will just winch from the wheels...the cable will dent the weak lower edge. You need to strap the box around the circumfrance and winch that instead of the wheels. This type of damage could also happen with your plan to get it in the pickup.

 

[blacK20]

You do realize that a KRL double bank is over 600 lbs??? That will be very tricky to get into the back of a pickup using a fairly steep ramp unless you have at least three strong friends helping. Since one pair of wheels steers, it will not necessarily want to take a staight path right up your ramps. Keep in mind that the bottom edges are just thin metal, so picking it up by a strap to get it off is not such a great idea either. You will damage the bottom edges.

A MUCH better plan would be to rent a 5X9 ramp trailer for $25/day from U-Haul. This is a very low trailer, so rolling it on and off is fairly easy. Heavy ratchet straps around the wheels, and a few lighter straps over the top and you're set. I move a lot of boxes, and this is a very easy way to do it.

A flatbed rollback can work too, but I see a lot of boxes that have been damaged by this process as well, (again at the weak bottom edge.) The transition from ground to rollback is too steep, (you need some sort of wood ramp) and a lot of drivers will just winch from the wheels...the cable will dent the weak lower edge. You need to strap the box around the circumfrance and winch that instead of the wheels. This type of damage could also happen with your plan to get it in the pickup.

How exactly are you doing it when you say ratchet straps around the wheels? Do you have any pics? I'm about to move my krl and could use some good advice.

 

[outcast]

$180 = ouch = par, snap-on. what are thee alternatives ? i am "VERY MUCH" DIY.

600#, thats nuthin. i have had 1000# in it and not sweat it. it actually road like a caddy.
95 S-10 lowered 4/5 at the time. i have since raised it 2". but its all good. i have air shocks if needed.

my ramps are 2x10x10'. the angle is not bad at all.
friends ? what are those ? sides my (disabled) wife, i don't have any.

i have thought about wheel steer. i think/know i can handle that.

thin metal. THANX for that tip ! i will now cut boards to make the strap not touch those.

"You need to strap the box around the circumfrance and winch that "
BINGO ! thought of that. actually, it needs to be strapped just a little above the wheels, 6" to 12" or so.

 

[outcast]

How exactly are you doing it when you say ratchet straps around the wheels? Do you have any pics? I'm about to move my krl and could use some good advice.

that is easy. strap to the truck. then wrap the strap around one wheel. then wrap it around the next wheel. then strap it to the truck and tighten.

and straps over the top, but secured to the box, to keep it from tipping over.

 

[blacK20]

that is easy. strap to the truck. then wrap the strap around one wheel. then wrap it around the next wheel. then strap it to the truck and tighten.

and straps over the top, but secured to the box, to keep it from tipping over.

So the strap around the wheels only keeps the box from rolling in one axis. What keeps it from rolling front to back(direction the drawers open and close if that makes any sense)

 

[outcast]

the box is going into the bed lengthwise = drawers face the side of the truck. it will roll to the front of the bed (closest to the cab). this will keep it from rolling forwards when braking. a strap that goes around the box = the end at the tailgate, strapped to pull the box towards the front of the truck. so when you accelerate, the box doesn't roll out of the truck bed. get it ?

the straps at the wheels are there, perhaps not needed, so that the bottom of the box doesn't "kick out", laying the box on its long side. if you are doing highway driving, i would do this. but if you are doing local, 55mph and lower, and driving easy, you can get away without these straps. i don't plan to use them. i just don't want the box to tip over, or move around.

 

[outcast]

So the strap around the wheels only keeps the box from rolling in one axis.

no. these are to keep the bottom from "kicking out".

 

[blacK20]

Ah ok. After some searching as well, I have some ideas now.

 

[Skyline]

How exactly are you doing it when you say ratchet straps around the wheels? Do you have any pics? I'm about to move my krl and could use some good advice.

These ramp trailers have tiedown loops in all four corners. I hook a heavy ratchet strap to the front left loop, go around both rear wheels of the box, then go to the front right loop. Another strap goes from the left rear loop, around the front wheels of the box, and back to the loop in the right rear of the trailer. I tighten the straps so the toolbox is centered in the trailer. The straps are actually above the wheels, below the bottom edge of the box. The box will be completely secure like this with two straps. I will add a couple across the top for good measure. If the weather is bad, I'll strap a plastic tarp around the box.

I use (2) 25' 2" straps for the wheels. 1" straps over the top. Any excess strap needs to be secured before you drive, or it will be shredded as it flaps in the wind.

Sorry, but I never took pics.

 

[Skyline]

the box is going into the bed lengthwise = drawers face the side of the truck. it will roll to the front of the bed (closest to the cab). this will keep it from rolling forwards when braking. a strap that goes around the box = the end at the tailgate, strapped to pull the box towards the front of the truck. so when you accelerate, the box doesn't roll out of the truck bed. get it ?

the straps at the wheels are there, perhaps not needed, so that the bottom of the box doesn't "kick out", laying the box on its long side. if you are doing highway driving, i would do this. but if you are doing local, 55mph and lower, and driving easy, you can get away without these straps. i don't plan to use them. i just don't want the box to tip over, or move around.

Strapping the wheels as I suggest is absolutely the best way. Straps around the box itself can cause rub marks in the paint. Two strong straps around the wheels, and a roll cab is not going anywhere. If there's a top box, I'd add a lot more straps around the top. One problem is that the floor of these U-haul trailers, (like most pickup or van beds) is ribbed, and the box will want to move a bit into these ribs unless it is very secure.

 

[outcast]

what are the DIY drawer liner options ?

i expect it would have usable liners already. but even if it didn't, i would use cardboard until i do a permanent liner.

 

[outcast]

oh. do these boxs come standard with any accessories ?
like drawer trays or something ?

 

[outcast]

well. a like new 7022 came up yesterday. i made an offer of 1800 for it and was accepted.
i then remembered about its depth. i will check to make sure. but i am thinking 29" is just too much

here is my space. that box is 20". there is no car/truck in my bay, but they are the same closeness as the van behind it.

i am sad

 

[outcast]

update

things are not going well. there was a pretty good selection of boxs on CL when i started looking a few weeks ago.

now. they are either sold/repossessed, or way over priced. and the supply is thinning out.

i guess/hope this is just the up & down of the market.
but i am still bummed. as i want to get my next box. i guess thats what i get for being picky, limited, and cheap/frugal .

 

[Strouty]

I would look at his one, I don't know how good or bad ATD boxes are, but it has a lot of storage room for the price.

http://chicago.craigslist.org/chc/tls/2537253716.html

 

[outcast]

yeah, well, perhaps. but, since finding this forum. i have my heart set on a KRL.
damn you, damn you all ! hehe

though. i "may" end up with a classic 78, for the right price. as i am figuring that a 78 is still far and away much better than what i have. but i am kinda concerned about the lesser build quality of a 78. though this may not even be an issue, idk.

 

[wornoutoldman]

I'd look at this one http://chicago.craigslist.org/chc/tls/2533134729.html this was a killer box back in the day. Roller drawers and stereo

 

[outcast]

no way on that one. for many reasons.

 

[outcast]

hey, guys. will HANSEN socket trays fit in the top drawer ? deep sockets. 761

 

[outcast]

UPDATE

i am now the proud owner of a pretty decent condition (i haven't cleaned it up yet) KRL761.

it popped up on CL a few days ago, and i persued it. seems i was the first to see it. the guy had a friend list it for him, idk why. but i am figuring that he doesn't go on the internet, or he would have know what he had. it was listed for $1500 obo. so i get there this morning and start looking at it, i wanted it. so i said to the guy "well, you have it listed for 15 obo. so, you HAVE to give me at least SOMETHING off that 1500. he looked down, and made some faces. then said "how bout 14" ? i said SOLD
i was only looking for $10-$20
i paid in hundo's

i then looked at his tools, and bought a few things. he had good prices. wish i needed more. i felt bad for the dude. he looked bummed out. and told me that after loosing his job 6 months ago, things weren't going so well.
+ his home is being forclosed on, on top of that

he emptied the box and i set up my truck. i pushed the box up the ramps and into the bed pretty much by my self. he watched the front wheels so they didn't go off the ramps. i then strapped it down. that is when i learned my cheapo straps ****. i stood on the bumper, grabbed the handle, and started ROCKING. yep, good to go

ready to leave. told him that i truely do wish him good luck

all was done and i drove away.

i unloaded it at the shop and put it in its new home.

guys, thanx for all your help

 

[Davo3]

Congrats!

 

[rsieracki]

http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=127809&d=1312731680

would you be selling that "old" kr555 (i think) ? i live 5 mins from ohare and depending on where your located.....

 

[outcast]

that is indeed a kr555. i doubt you would want it, it is pretty beat up, worn paint, chips and scratches. and it was broken into at one time, about 10 years ago. i straightened the damage, and stuck the $2000 insurance money in my pocket.

out of curiosity. assume it didn't have any damage. what would you offer for it ?

 

[Jawn]

Nice box. Nice '57 too.

 

[outcast]

thanx

that 57 is waaaaay nicer than it looks in the pics. it is a customers, the trans is bad.

 

[outcast]

well. the tag doesn't have a production date on it. the guy told me he bought in new in 2002. i am wanting to verify, not that it matters. search time

 

[redwrench60]

Whenever I see a KRL going down the road squatting some truck or trailer I always think, that poor *******. I've never had to move my KRL1001B/KRL1201A combo,thankfully!

 

[spoolgarage]

I just bought a krl7023 and it wasnt too bad to transport but a uhaul trailer with a ramp is a must. I had a 5 hour drive and I made sure the wheels were strapped down tight.

 

[redwrench60]

I guess if the box is empty thats one thing but loaded, makes me pucker just thinkin about it. Horrible visions of sockets and wrenches bouncing down the highway,too much to bear.