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Snap-On screwdriver quality vs the others

Boogerman

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That picture looks to me like the handle failed.

I have never heard of off-gassing causing rust to other tools.
Yes, handle failed by deterioration of the plastic. It gets shiny little beads of liquid on the surface and a white chalky stuff like mold. The plastic shrinks and cracks. Once it starts, it progresses quickly and affects other plastic around it, and rusts metal near it. Smells like puke because it releases butyric acid, which is what causes the rust. Same thing happens to some old craftsman screwdrivers, and I've seen it on old Plomb or Proto yellow handles a bit also.

This one was in my road box, that I don't get into often, luckily found it before it damaged everything else.

I had it happen to a 1980's to 90's deadblow also; and they warranted that without question also.
 
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RTM

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I have never heard of off-gassing causing rust to other tools.
I took the murderer out of the drawers soon as I saw it, and then took the pic. Note the center drawer in the picture. Somewhere a tiny Vacu Grip plier set was also heartbreakingly rusted out.


IMG_20191026_165038-X3.jpg


This ext caliper was top right in the shot.


IMG_20191112_214015-X3.jpg

This vacu grip was almost touching the screwdriver.


IMG_20191112_214119-X3.jpg
 
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Boogerman

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milky2k

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I prefer a triangular handled screwdriver so I ended up putting together a Snap On set but found them a bit too big at times. I got a set of Meyhew screwdrivers and the slightly smaller handle, compared to SO, is a better fit for me. I recently saw these are available in orange and green as well.
Edit: They are also sold by Channellock in their blue color if you prefer that instead. All are made in the USA if that helps any.
20240220_210445_Original.jpeg20240220_210606_Original.jpeg
 
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F-22

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PB Swiss is higher quality than any other screwdriver I've owned. Don't think they have any striking ones with a hard handle though. But they do seem a step above everyone else.

Vessel is extremely good for a faction of the cost (at least it was on japanese amazon until they increased the shipping costs). Don't have any Snap On but I'd put my Williams on this level.

I'd put Witte next, they're still quite nice, and I think they manufacture for Stahlwille and Matco. I quite like Facom handles too, and the Bahco screwdrivers feel super sturdy (I think made by Irazola).

Oplast are the OEM manufacturers for many European brands like Hazet, Gedore and Unior. I'd put these a step lower. Still top quality. Also on this level for me is Felo, Wera, Wiha, toptul... Some are slightly better and some are slightly worse. All do their job really well for sure but fall short in quality compared to the top brands in my opinion.

One thing you can immediately notice on the cheaper screwdrivers is that the bolster (on striking screwdrivers) is pressed on instead of being forged from a single piece which is the more pricey procedure. You'll see that on most European brands apart from PB Swiss. Recent Witte screwdrivers press it on too, but I think they still sell the all forged models too. Similarly the recent Facom screwdrivers do this but I think they still sell some all forged ones. Oplast is pressed, so is Wera and wiha etc...
 

Dave455

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I find this hard to believe…..

“The plastic hard handles started off-gassing and rusted a load of other tools”.


I have hard handle PB Swiss, Facom, and a few vintage Snap-On and have never had this problem of the off-gassing causing rust to other tools.
I’ve actually experienced this problem.

I have a drawer with “non standard” screwdrivers, some of which are old ”Steadfast” (older British manufacturer) drivers with yellow cellulose acetate handles.

One of these started decomposing, and the vapour rusted the blades of the adjoining tools. Thankfully I’d subdivided the drawer with plastic boxes, so the damage was contained.

I’ve only encountered the problem once with the old Snap On Tenite handles, and that was on an older driver that had belonged to my Dad. It was an extra long blade driver that I stored on it’s own, so nothing else was affected, but the handle was weeping fluid.

The driver in question was a Canadian made one, and I have older drivers that have not suffered the same way, so my Snap On dealers assertion that only some batches of material had the problem, seems reasonable.
 
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2ndGearRubber

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Like just about every other tool, I guess I feel screwdrivers are deceptively complicated.

For automotive, obviously you need the right sized tips, as has been mentioned. Both Phillips and straights come in different non-interchangeable configurations.

Handles should engineered for the purpose. Rounder handles are better for precise adjusting and speed. Lumpy handles are better for torque. Different handle materials work better with gloves, or when slippery. Some handles (like instincts) have areas designed to accommodate multiple holds/uses. Last, they need to fit your hand.

I prefer round shanks to square or hex because I sometimes guide the tool with my other hand and I find the facets distracting.

Last, there are additional features like hex bolsters or striking caps that can be essential for some applications.

For automotive, I’d choose heavy duty over refined, hex bolsters, maybe striking caps, lumpy handles. I think automotive screwdriver sets should include torx and maybe allens.

No criticism of my friends here, but sometimes we praise a tool for one aspect (e.g. strongest wrench) without appreciating the tools that do many things well. To find the right screwdriver, one needs to address all the aspects above. Screwdrivers are more than tips and comfy handles.

That said, in automotive, you're not doing a lot with screwdrivers.

I don't care what fancy brand you have, it will not remove a Phillips head fastener connected to 1/2 of rusted m6 thread. The head just can't do that. Even with boutique brands, on screw threads, it's a loosing battle. Most interior screws are run with power tools, and being (typically) clean hardware most anything will work. I prefer hand driven tools for screws into plastic, but that's very low torque.

Getting into Japanese head carb screws, rotor hold down "screws", or prybar use really brings us into a different discussion.

One certainly can use screwdrivers in automotive, but why would you want to do so?
 

2ndGearRubber

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I’ve actually experienced this problem.

I have a drawer with “non standard” screwdrivers, some of which are old ”Steadfast” (older British manufacturer) drivers with yellow cellulose acetate handles.

One of these started decomposing, and the vapour rusted the blades of the adjoining tools. Thankfully I’d subdivided the drawer with plastic boxes, so the damage was contained.

I was under the impression any brand of plastic from that generation could create this reaction. There were a variety of plastic formulations which decayed in this way.
 

AEAdam

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Had one I got in the 90's do that; corporate Snap-on warranted it this week no problems; haven't received the replacement in the mail yet, but they confirmed. They warranty those routinely; it's a known problem.

20240215_100303.jpg
This handle shown above preceded the hard handle we know today. It was know as the “Contour Grip”. Snap On stopped making these in the 80s, or maybe early 90s. I bought my “Power Grip” hard handles in the early 90s. The CG handles were a distinct memory by then. The PG handles have survived in production either with Snap On or Williams for the last 30 years. My 30yr old screwdrivers are worn smooth, but otherwise look to be in near perfect condition.

Details of Snap On screwdriver handle history can be found here.

I give the person who said these caused corrosion to adjacent tools the benefit of the doubt and so should you. No idea what happens when this material degrades. Obviously Snap On didn’t know either.
 

KnurledNut

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I'm an automotive mechanic.

I've never really paid much attention to them, just bought run of the mill Craftsman / Stanley / Kobalt, etc. The blades break on the flat tip ones, and the flutes wear out on the phillips models.
I recently ordered a set of PB Swiss flat tips (6 screwdrivers),
PB Swiss are very high quality but, fair warning, the parallel ground slotted tips dont handle the punishment a mechanic dishes out very well. Prying, chiseling, separating, punching, twisting is better off left to an old beater.
Honestly, while I love the tools, I wouldnt even recommend PB Swiss to an auto mechanic.
 

Dakotadadv8

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The Snap on Instinct screwdriver set is nice highly recommend them. Even have used the largest flat head screwdriver to loosen large screws. I used the prybar set from Milwaukee instead of screwdriver.
 

AJHD

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I prefer a triangular handled screwdriver so I ended up putting together a Snap On set but found them a bit too big at times. I got a set of Meyhew screwdrivers and the slightly smaller handle, compared to SO, is a better fit for me. I recently saw these are available in orange and green as well.
Edit: They are also sold by Channellock in their blue color if you prefer that instead. All are made in the USA if that helps any.
20240220_210445_Original.jpeg20240220_210606_Original.jpeg

I've been seeing these pop-up lately. Have you used them yet? I'd consider buying the green handle version.

My Snap On screwdriver set has held up well. They're some of the Snap On tools I've had the longest. But I'd like to pick up a second set of screwdrivers at some point.

PB Swiss are very high quality but, fair warning, the parallel ground slotted tips dont handle the punishment a mechanic dishes out very well. Prying, chiseling, separating, punching, twisting is better off left to an old beater.
Honestly, while I love the tools, I wouldnt even recommend PB Swiss to an auto mechanic.

I don't have any flat blade PB Swiss yet (except a few 1/4" bit versions), but I have the same reservations. I'm hesitant to buy more and actually use them.

I wonder if there is any difference between PB Swiss normal flat blade tip and this "heavy duty" model... Description says " safe to use as a chisel" and it has a striking cap.

 

Rockable

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Don't pry with straight blade screwdrivers with the black, hardened tip. They will break every time. Use your old school Craftsman, etc straight steel screwdrivers for that activity. Sometimes it's hard to stop and go get another one but you will end up doing it anyway.
 

lardy1

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I wanted some better bolstered, thru tang drivers so I took a chance on the Mayhew (Taiwan) Select. I'm on an extended building construction project so they won't get tested much for awhile. I prefer Euro or domestic but Mayhews quality has always served me well and the price was appealing. Like others have said, a lot of very nice screwdrivers don't belong in tough conditions. Hopefully these fill that spot for me better than the Chinese Channellock Code Blue I bought a few years ago and really dislike.
 

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KnurledNut

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I don't have any flat blade PB Swiss yet (except a few 1/4" bit versions), but I have the same reservations. I'm hesitant to buy more and actually use them.

I wonder if there is any difference between PB Swiss normal flat blade tip and this "heavy duty" model... Description says " safe to use as a chisel" and it has a striking cap.
While I am aware of those, I haven’t used them. But it looks like the tip geometry is the same. Which can be an issue when trying to wedge. Also, i’m not sure of the biggest HD they make, but DRPD only has them going up to 8mm. I know the regular drivers go at least to 10mm.
 

Davefr

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I don't care much for my PB Swiss with the parallel tips. In most everyday slotted screws there can be too much slop. Most screws are not manufactured to precise slot standards and as such PB Swiss often do not fit all that great. With a tapered blade screwdriver I can generally get a nice tight grip in most of the screw's slot.

An exception might be firearm fasteners where the screws are higher end but in those cases something like a Grace bit set would be better so you have a wide variety of hollow ground bits to get that perfect "no slop" fit.

Proto Duratek and Vessel are my go to screwdrivers. SO is nothing special but at insane pricing.
 

minke

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PB Swiss are very high quality but, fair warning, the parallel ground slotted tips dont handle the punishment a mechanic dishes out very well. Prying, chiseling, separating, punching, twisting is better off left to an old beater.
Honestly, while I love the tools, I wouldnt even recommend PB Swiss to an auto mechanic.

I have an old set of free Harbor Freight screwdrivers which are my sacrificial screwdrivers.
 

Dave455

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I was under the impression any brand of plastic from that generation could create this reaction. There were a variety of plastic formulations which decayed in this way.
I think potentially yes, although it’s not a problem that affects all ”plastic” materials, but specifically cellulose acetate, which can decay, giving off acetic acid. This is the fluid that is sometimes seen, and both it and it’s vapour are quite corrosive, hence the rusting problems.

Different atmospheric conditions affect the rate of decay, including temperature, humidity, and exposure to U.V. One manufacturer that I spoke to briefly some years ago assured me that there were variations between different products, and the eras in which they were produced, and that “modern” (at the time 1990’s) cellulose acetate was much more stable.

The old Snap On “Contour Grip” handles (below) were made from cellulose acetate (specifically Eastman Tenite) as are many drivers today, such as the Vessel I pictured above. The majority have no issues.7E43E2AE-5084-43B5-B0CF-A5D59263434A.jpeg

I am aware, however, that Snap On changed materials with their next generation of hard handles (Power Grip). I believe these to be a DuPont material, possibly one of the Zytel family.

This is essentially a nylon, is much more stable, and I’ve never encountered it degrading. The downside of Nylon is that it tends to be softer, though that isn’t an issue with these handles, which I think are the best out there, bar none.

This is what you pay Snap On money for. My much loved Power Grip bit driver is shown below, with it’s T handled cousin.
67FE62CC-D12A-4C70-BC15-2839A6E03548.jpeg
 
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Madjik Man

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A few years ago I bought the Tekton hard handle set (flat and Phillips) because that handle felt perfect in my hand.

I’ve since bought a wide array of Vessel flat and JIS drivers. And almost exclusively use them for everything.
 

CGarage

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Nice to see that handle degradation is not an issue on 50+ year old Facom screwdrivers, based on the Snap-On design of that era…
 

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Stubby1743

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DSCF9605R.jpg

This is what can happen to the old SO handles. Blistering on the outside and swelling from the inside leading to splitting. SO UK sent me a new replacement for this one last year.
 

Grokew

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PB Swiss is higher quality than any other screwdriver I've owned. Don't think they have any striking ones with a hard handle though. But they do seem a step above everyone else.

Vessel is extremely good for a faction of the cost (at least it was on japanese amazon until they increased the shipping costs). Don't have any Snap On but I'd put my Williams on this level.

I'd put Witte next, they're still quite nice, and I think they manufacture for Stahlwille and Matco. I quite like Facom handles too, and the Bahco screwdrivers feel super sturdy (I think made by Irazola).

Oplast are the OEM manufacturers for many European brands like Hazet, Gedore and Unior. I'd put these a step lower. Still top quality. Also on this level for me is Felo, Wera, Wiha, toptul... Some are slightly better and some are slightly worse. All do their job really well for sure but fall short in quality compared to the top brands in my opinion.

One thing you can immediately notice on the cheaper screwdrivers is that the bolster (on striking screwdrivers) is pressed on instead of being forged from a single piece which is the more pricey procedure. You'll see that on most European brands apart from PB Swiss. Recent Witte screwdrivers press it on too, but I think they still sell the all forged models too. Similarly the recent Facom screwdrivers do this but I think they still sell some all forged ones. Oplast is pressed, so is Wera and wiha etc...
You are right. They are Swiss grip, not hard handle.

 

Dave455

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Nice to see that handle degradation is not an issue on 50+ year old Facom screwdrivers, based on the Snap-On design of that era…
The “hard handle” Facom drivers of that era (and slightly after) were superb. I have a few of the slightly later pattern and you’re absolutely right, no issues at all. Very under rated drivers.

The ones with the red and black oval handles (was it ergotwist?) can degrade horribly though. A machinist friend had several degrade.

Facom replaced the without query though, so you don’t always have to pay top dollar for a warranty!
 

SusKatCas

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I had it happen to a 1980's to 90's deadblow also; and they warranted that without question also.
I saw this with a lot (6+) of SO dead blow hammers that my Dad left behind. My brother-in-law said in his experience in central MI you can only collect a SO warranty if their part number still exists on the tool. So we pitched them...
 

mrbillh

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I went with Williams because I like the old style hard handles. Also have a full set of Proto. You might give the Protos a look
 

bcradio

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I went with Williams because I like the old style hard handles. Also have a full set of Proto. You might give the Protos a look
I have the Williams, Icons, Vessel, Klein, Tekton hard handle and definitely use the Williams the most. I like how they feel in the hand.

I am not a fan of the Tekton at all
 

dnschmidt

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The answer is Vessel. TOPTUL, Wiha, Wera, Felo (a personal favorite) and PB Swiss (top of the line but overpriced) are all excellent. I DO NOT LIKE the new Mayhew (also branded Tekton and many others) slotted screwdrivers one bit (see what I did there) because the taper (actually the lack of taper) is too severe and they don't work well as slotted screwdrivers. They might be fine for chisels but I use chisels for chisels.
 

CGarage

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The answer is Vessel. TOPTUL, Wiha, Wera, Felo (a personal favorite) and PB Swiss (top of the line but overpriced) are all excellent. I DO NOT LIKE the new Mayhew (also branded Tekton and many others) slotted screwdrivers one bit (see what I did there) because the taper (actually the lack of taper) is too severe and they don't work well as slotted screwdrivers. They might be fine for chisels but I use chisels for chisels.


Agree.
 

AEAdam

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The answer is Vessel. TOPTUL, Wiha, Wera, Felo (a personal favorite) and PB Swiss (top of the line but overpriced) are all excellent. I DO NOT LIKE the new Mayhew (also branded Tekton and many others) slotted screwdrivers one bit (see what I did there) because the taper (actually the lack of taper) is too severe and they don't work well as slotted screwdrivers. They might be fine for chisels but I use chisels for chisels.
Don’t a lot of these screwdrivers have smooth round handles? For home electrical wiring, with you 100%. For that nasty PH3 holding a brake disk in place, are these the right screwdrivers?
 

CGarage

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Don’t a lot of these screwdrivers have smooth round handles? For home electrical wiring, with you 100%. For that nasty PH3 holding a brake disk in place, are these the right screwdrivers?


Whatever that wood composite handle is from Vessel is made from, it doesn’t slip.

I really like those screwdrivers, and I think they are priced right, too.
 

dnschmidt

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Don’t a lot of these screwdrivers have smooth round handles? For home electrical wiring, with you 100%. For that nasty PH3 holding a brake disk in place, are these the right screwdrivers?
No, an impact driver with a #3 bit is the right tool for that purpose. If you don't have one of those the Vessel Impacta #3 will get the job done too. Personally I use my Milwaukee M12 or M18 impact drivers for this specific purpose.
 

F-22

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PB Swiss are very high quality but, fair warning, the parallel ground slotted tips dont handle the punishment a mechanic dishes out very well. Prying, chiseling, separating, punching, twisting is better off left to an old beater.
Honestly, while I love the tools, I wouldnt even recommend PB Swiss to an auto mechanic.
I work at a big company (1000+ employees) in Europe and we mostly buy stuff from Hoffmann Group, so we have a bunch of Garant-branded PB Swiss screwdrivers.

While I'd never use those for that kind of stuff at home, I can say they do handle abuse very well too.

But using PB Swiss for that is just squander. You want those to stay nice so they fit well when you need them.
 
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