Snap on YA642 Jack Rebuild

[Snapon1]

Picked up a Snap on YA642 jack and a rebuild kit on Craigslist today for $20. According to the seller it needs to be rebuilt but I'm not sure why. This will be my first time rebuilding a jack and was wondering if someone with experience could give me info and advice on what to look for or what not to do. Also, the rebuild kit part #: 240524 that was included doesn't look like it has all the parts compared to other kits I saw online.

 

[larry_g]

I just rebuild mine a couple of weeks ago. Not to bad of a job once I got the tank nut off. I don't have the info in front of me at the moment but will get back here with a couple of sites I used for reference. There were a couple of rebuilds on this site, but the pictures are lost to photobucket. I also have made the tool to remove the tank nut that I would be willing to sell, or loan out with a deposit.

lg
no neat sig line

 

[Snapon1]

Larry, I also tried to see if I could find more info on rebuilding it and I think I found a couple rebuilds but like you said the pictures on it were no longer there. What kit did you use to rebuild yours? I'm looking around and I'm finding different set of kits that either include just a few seals and like three balls which is the kit that I got with the jack and then I'm seeing kits that come with like a filter, expansion plugs. Will I need to buy a new rebuild kit?

 

[Hiball]

Larry, I also tried to see if I could find more info on rebuilding it and I think I found a couple rebuilds but like you said the pictures on it were no longer there. What kit did you use to rebuild yours? I'm looking around and I'm finding different set of kits that either include just a few seals and like three balls which is the kit that I got with the jack and then I'm seeing kits that come with like a filter, expansion plugs. Will I need to buy a new rebuild kit?

Your kit has the wrong Ucup in it, it’s. It common for different suppliers to assemble different parts. The expansion plugs can be found at most auto parts stores, it uses the concave style. I can’t see some of the small pieces, but appears to have the Vee’s for the pump, but maybe only 2, should be 3..
Could be stuck together. Outside of that It appears the tank quad ring/backup is there, release oring/backup and heel plate. The only thing I’m unsure about is the sizes, but the Ucup looks metric and not nearly the right ID.

 

[Snapon1]

These are the contents of the kit included when I bought the jack. Should I order a new rebuild kit? If so, where is a good place to get one and what kit should I order? From what I'm finding online it should be repair kit #: 240530?

 

[4x4gearhead]

These are the contents of the kit included when I bought the jack. Should I order a new rebuild kit? If so, where is a good place to get one and what kit should I order? From what I'm finding online it should be repair kit #: 240530?

If you arent in a time crunch you can take the jack apart and conpare the seals you have with ones you pull out of jack. A lot of times if there is a good hydraulic shop in your area, they can put a kit together for you. I have done this many times with hydraulic cylinders and pumps.

 

[larry_g]

From this site ; https://www.hcrcnow.com/shop/seal-kits/snap-on/10751 I used the 2239 kit. There you will also find a PDF ofthe manual

I also found some info here; http://www.instructables.com/id/Rebuilding-a-Hydraulic-Floor-Jack/

and here ; http://www.shinnfuamerica.com/Owners Manual/HW93652 3TonServiceJack/710

I think in one of the tutorials Hiball informed us that the screw on the left is the over load and not to mess with it or count how many turns it takes to seat it and then reset it to this position when reassembling.

I also found on mine that the white backup ring had swollen to the point of being stuck in the cylinder. The kit above did not have a backup ring in it so I turned the existing one down to fit. Time will tell if that was a wise decision.

The one tutorial above says to use an impact screw driver to remove the small screw, good advise but not having one I ground down a drag link socket to fit and then used a C-clamp to hold the socket in the screw while I broke it loose.

Getting the tank nut off, I started by milling a socket leaving two fingers to fit the slots. Broke it twice. So I turned up a piece of steel, bored it to a good fit on the rod shaft of the cylinder and then milled two tangs on it that were tight fit in the slots on the nut. Welded it to the broken socket and hit it with the impact and it worked.

Good luck

lg
no neat sig line

 

[Snapon1]

Thanks a lot Larry for the great info and advice! I just placed an order from the site you listed above. That pdf of the manual also helped.

Is it recommended to take the overload out and rebuild or will leaving it be okay? Ill take a look and see if my kit that came with the jack has a back up ring.

 

[larry_g]

Thanks a lot Larry for the great info and advice! I just placed an order from the site you listed above. That pdf of the manual also helped.

Is it recommended to take the overload out and rebuild or will leaving it be okay? Ill take a look and see if my kit that came with the jack has a back up ring.

In your picture above the white ring is the backup ring. As far as taking the overload out I did because the main seal on mine had disintegrated and I wanted to make sure no debris remained in the system. I think for you it is a judgement call, if things come apart with fairly clean fluid and intact seals then you could probably get by with leaving it alone. It seems to me that my overload was backed off from fully seated by just over a full turn.

lg
no neat sig line

 

[JohnDeere1]

I have a Blackhawk sj2 i cant get the tank nut off for the life of me it's just its glued on there I gave up closest repair shop wants $150 to rebuild I'm giving up for now.

 

[JohnDeere1]

I just rebuild mine a couple of weeks ago. Not to bad of a job once I got the tank nut off. I don't have the info in front of me at the moment but will get back here with a couple of sites I used for reference. There were a couple of rebuilds on this site, but the pictures are lost to photobucket. I also have made the tool to remove the tank nut that I would be willing to sell, or loan out with a deposit.

lg
no neat sig line

Would it work for a black hawk sj2 it's not a standard 6pt nut it's special.

 

[larry_g]

Would it work for a black hawk sj2 it's not a standard 6pt nut it's special.

Like the one in this thread? https://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php? p=3885292

The tool I build is nothing like what that needs. It would not be to hard to build a tool for that though. measure out the center to center of opposite pins, drill a hole pattern in some plate, cut out the center of the hole pattern till it will drop over the OD of the nut. This will leave a set of1/2 holes in the plate. Drop it over the nut and insert pins in the holes locking the plate to the nut. Now twist the plate with a handle welded to it.

lg
no neat sig line

 

[Snapon1]

Mine has the nut with the two slots on it. According to the link above the guy made one. Do you have any recommendations on what the best method of removing it? What tool do you use?

 

[larry_g]

John Deere


I have a bottle jack with that 16 slot top. It has a diameter of 3.25" at the full diameter, widest part of the cap. If yours is the same I could fab up the tool to capture that cap. as described in the post above. I would leave it up to you to weld on an appropriate handle.

let me know.

lg
no neat sig line

 

[Snapon1]

Larry, I just want to thank you again for all the great info and advice! Those links you posted definitely helped me give me a better idea of what is all involved. It seems like a lot of the tutorials I'm finding are all missing pictures. Do you know of anyone that makes replacement stickers for these jacks?

 

[larry_g]

Do you know of anyone that makes replacement stickers for these jacks?

I don't know. Making things work is what I do, i don't do pretty.

lg
no neat sig line

 

[JohnDeere1]

John Deere


I have a bottle jack with that 16 slot top. It has a diameter of 3.25" at the full diameter, widest part of the cap. If yours is the same I could fab up the tool to capture that cap. as described in the post above. I would leave it up to you to weld on an appropriate handle.

let me know.

lg
no neat sig line

Didnt mean to hijack OPs thread sorry I believe that's the size I need I don't have a way to fabricate anything I work on cars if you could fab it up that would be great I would pay for such a tool I tried everything in my means to get it off and failed. It's like it's glued on there it leaks pretty bad out the tank nut every time I lower it you can here it spitting and it leaves puddles from sitting you can see it leaking from the tank nut. I have the o ring ready to change it. Good Luck OP building your fine jack looks like a Hein Warner the exact model I wanted but couldn't find one.

 

[Tuc04]

I cleaned and repainted a working YA642 a few years ago. I recreated the Snap On stickers so it looked almost like new. Here is what it looks like now. Let me know if you are interested in the sticker PDFs.

 

[bsg1]

tagged.

 

[Snapon1]

I cleaned and repainted a working YA642 a few years ago. I recreated the Snap On stickers so it looked almost like new. Here is what it looks like now. Let me know if you are interested in the sticker PDFs.

That looks good! Yeah that would be nice. Do I need to bring the pdf somewhere to have it done? Also, How did you go about prepping the jack for paint? I was thinking of either leaving it, wire wheel or sandblasting.

 

[Snapon1]

Started taking apart the jack yesterday. I'm waiting on my rebuild kit, should be here by the end of the week. The pump is just covered with about an 1/8" of dirt and grime but the paint is still decent except for where the springs are located and the bottom of it needs paint. In the mean time I'm deciding if I should just rebuild the pump, install it back and leave as is or clean it up a bit and paint.

 

[Michael_in_DE]

I repainted my craftsman, and am glad I did. Looks so much better. Big tip; do your best to grease those wheels up, it made a huge different on my craftsman.

 

[Burgerkong]

Here's my tank nut tool:

https://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showpost.php?p=4916134&postcount=17

https://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showpost.php?p=4918367&postcount=18

 

[Snapon1]

Here's my tank nut tool:

https://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showpost.php?p=4916134&postcount=17

https://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showpost.php?p=4918367&postcount=18

Where did you get the adapter from? Did it work well to remove the nut? I was thinking about using a 1-1/2" socket but I don't know how well it will hold up.

 

[Tuc04]

Here are the stickers. They should already be scaled correctly, but you can print a test on plain paper to confirm.

When printing these for real you'll want the items that are black in the file to be printed in white on a clear sticker.

https://www.pdf-archive.com/2015/09/25/snapon-only/snapon-only.pdf

https://www.pdf-archive.com/2015/09/25/warningsticker/warningsticker.pdf

 

[Snapon1]

Here are the stickers. They should already be scaled correctly, but you can print a test on plain paper to confirm.

When printing these for real you'll want the items that are black in the file to be printed in white on a clear sticker.

https://www.pdf-archive.com/2015/09/25/snapon-only/snapon-only.pdf

https://www.pdf-archive.com/2015/09/25/warningsticker/warningsticker.pdf

Thank you! How did you make these? I wanted to get one made for the side with the model and series number on it. Also, where would I go to have those stickers made?

 

[Tuc04]

I took pictures of the torn up stickers I had and also looked online for stickers that filled in some of my missing information. My fiance then used graphic designer magic to reproduce the stickers.

She had a print shop she uses print them on the corner of something else (an area that normally would be cut off as scrap).

The main sticker looks the same between our jacks, but the warning sticker is different as we have slightly different versions of the jack. You will see a difference in the area where the large main bolt goes through the lifting arm.

Mine is a series c which is the same as Lincoln 93642 series c.

 

[Ranch]

Subscribed.

I recently got a NAPA 91-642 (which I believe is the same jack) that needs a rebuild. I've run into the same problem... photobucket has ruined the tutorials.

There is some great info in this thread already, if you don't mind keeping us posted on your progress. This will be a great help to myself and others in the future.

n00b question... how do i rotate the photos...?

 

[Burgerkong]

Here are my digital files as well:

https://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=302095

 

[Burgerkong]

Where did you get the adapter from? Did it work well to remove the nut? I was thinking about using a 1-1/2" socket but I don't know how well it will hold up.

It was a 3/4" drive to 1.5" drive adapter that just happened to have the right outer dimension and was thick enough. I tried using a socket, didn't work.

https://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=301261

 

[larry_g]

View media item 75257
Well as long as we're showing off sockets. I tried to mill a couple of tabs onto a import socket and they just busted off when torque was applied, twice. So I turned up a piece of rod I had and bored it to a slip fit on the cylinder rod to keep it from cocking and fit the pins to a tight fit in the nut slots so I had to tap it into the slots. Welded it to the broken socket. 1 3/8" 3/4 drive. Hit it with the rattle gun and it came right off. It could be bought or borrowed with a deposit, plus shipping.

lg
no neat sig line

 

[Snapon1]

I went to my local Northern Tool last night. I got a 3/4" drive 1-1/2" deep 6 point impact socket and adapter. The chrome socket in the same size was a lot thinner than the impact socket.

 

[Snapon1]

I mounted the unit back on the jack for ease of removal of the tank nut. A few quick bursts with my cordless impact and the nut came loose. Surprisingly it came right off, thought I would have a harder time but it worked great with the modified socket.

Once I got the tank off this is what I found I don't think the fluid has ever been changed on it

 

[Snapon1]

Brendan, I was reading your walker rebuild that you posted and noticed that you used anaerobic gasket maker for sealing up the reservoir and tank nut. Is it necessary to use a sealant between those two metal surfaces as there is no gasket? If so, would an rtv gasket maker work?

 

[larry_g]

Good on you for getting the tank nut off. The cheap socket I used just sheared off the fingers. I believe that a RTV will do the job to seal the tank to the base. I used Permetex #2 on mine and it is working so far. https://www.permatex.com/products/gasketing/gasket-sealants/permatex-form-a-gasket-no-2-sealant/

lg
no neat sig line

 

[Hiball]

Brendan, I was reading your walker rebuild that you posted and noticed that you used anaerobic gasket maker for sealing up the reservoir and tank nut. Is it necessary to use a sealant between those two metal surfaces as there is no gasket? If so, would an rtv gasket maker work?

If your confident you can retorque the tank nut to factory specs, and confident the mating surfaces are factory fresh... Nah you don’t need any sealant. If you are unsure of those two things... Anaerobic sealer will save you from possibly needing to remove the hydraulic unit at min to retighten or seal in the future. I would stay away from RTV, if your careful and don’t go crazy you might be alright, but pieces of cured silicone have no business inside the reservoir and “possibly” making there way into the valve system.

 

[Snapon1]

Okay, thank you guys for the advice. Out of curiosity what is the factory torque spec on that nut?

Also, I seem to be having a hard time getting the ram out. I feel like it should just pull right out? I can turn it by hand but can't get it pulled out. Am I missing something here?

 

[Hiball]

Okay, thank you guys for the advice. Out of curiosity what is the factory torque spec on that nut?

Also, I seem to be having a hard time getting the ram out. I feel like it should just pull right out? I can turn it by hand but can't get it pulled out. Am I missing something here?

400 ft lbs ish... The reason the ram won’t come out is more than likely because the nylon heel plate has swollen (moisture) and is stuck in the bore. If you pull hard enough, it will either come or force the Ucup off and you can then remove it individually.

 

[larry_g]

400 ft lbs ish... The reason the ram won’t come out is more than likely because the nylon heel plate has swollen (moisture) and is stuck in the bore. If you pull hard enough, it will either come or force the Ucup off and you can then remove it individually.

In post #7 you see I had the same problem. I pulled the ram till the cup seal came off and then removed the white ring by hooking it with the underside of a long bolt and getting it out. I think that you have a spare white ring in the kit that came with your jack so you shouldn't have to save yours like I did.

lg
no neat sig line

 

[Snapon1]

The ram was really stuck inside the cylinder but I got it out. The u-cup seal was completely destroyed and the white back up/heel plate ring is swollen a bit. Unfortunately, the new white back up/heel plate ring that I have is different than the one that is in there. Also, I ran across rust in one spot inside the cylinder. I don't know why it's just the one spot but any suggestions on what I can do about the rust? Would fine steel wool be bad to use in there? I also need to find a new white back up ring and dont know if I can buy this individually?