So I Just Got A Block Grinder...

[Cruzan80]

...and what do I need to do/test besides the obligatory taking off all moving parts and giving it a good cleaning? It is a 397.19590 model, complete with tool rests, intact eye shields, gooseneck lamp, and (possibly original) grinding wheels. Right now, after running it for about 30sec-1min, it wants to walk back and to the right (the right wheel when facing the grinder wants to move back and right in a semi-circular motion). This is with it just sitting on my cement garage floor. Not very hard (can keep it in place with my hand on top of the center body) but wondering if this was indicative of wheels being out of balance. Did these come with a branded "Craftsman" gooseneck, or the general Leviton that mine has?

Also, is it normal to have about 75 sec from turning off until the wheels actually come to a stop? I think this indicates the bearings are in excellent condition, but not sure.

I have read thru the resource thread, but most of them seem to be geared towards people who bought them in less than ideal conditions, and are looking for replacement parts.

Total at the sale I spent about 120 (after tax). Got this for $50, a 5191 vice for $25 in really good shape minus one slice in the dynamic jaw body (right past the jaw insert) which is cosmetic damage only, as well as $35 for a ton of sockets, breaker bars, rachets, etc. Ended up with a set of 1/2" =V= sockets, 1/4" butterfly rachet, 3/8" and 1/2" long lever rachet, long and short extensions for each size, at least 2 breaker bars in each size, and a ton of other sockets (mostly -V- and =V=), all USA. Also got a set of oil wrenchs for all those mini sizes I didn't have, and now have a set of =V= open/box wrenches as well.

And a NOS in box 1/2"x20 chuck with key and paperwork. Still has the packing grease in it, and hasn't solidified. Score!

Pictures will follow, as well as taking a high res picture of the label (immaculate condition) so if anyone else needs to re-do theirs.

 

[WWShop]

http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=157794

Post your question about the block in this thread, these guys will know.

 

[Cruzan80]

Saw that thread, and will post the obligatory "Lookie what I got!" pictures in it, but at over 110 pages and started in 2012, makes for a very long read to get through it. Personally, when searching forums, I prefer a few shorter threads rather than digging thru monster ones. Pictures of the overall machine as well as a closeup of the label and the vice. Pics are low quality cell snaps right before leaving this morning.

 

[1982fxr]

A little walking is normal w/used wheels.

1. Bolt it down
2. Use the piss out of it 'til you die
3. Put instructions 1 and 2 under the base so the next person finds them

 

[7th Kahuna]

Sounds like you got a fine machine there. Yes the wheel may be out of balance. Could also be that it isn't properly mounted / sized on the arbor, or perhaps the 'feet' are rock hard and uneven. Given the age, the one item I would definitely recommend you inspect is the cord. It may be fine outside, but within the case may have 'dried out' and cracked. That has been my experience with these 40+ year old machines.

 

[Cruzan80]

Came with the rubber feet, but they were in the quench tray when I ran my informal test after bringing it home. Wanted to make sure they didn't get lost along the way (one was sitting next to the machine at the sale).

Would removing and remounting the wheels help with a possibly unbalanced situtation, or is this a common "issue" and is mitigated by bolting it down/to something heavy?

How do I tell the condition inside the cord without destructively slicing it open?

 

[fl18guy]

you did well with the cost . You could flip that vice on fleabay and make you money back easy.

 

[Jarhead0408]

You got a heck of a deal man.

I have an identical model of both your grinder and your vise. I use both quite often.

 

[CNGsaves]

Great score on the Craftsman block grinder !!

+1 to just clean it up and USE IT . . . . it's great as is.

With the eye shields and light, you have real winner there.

If you're ready to part with Craftsman vise, I'll call 1st dibbs !!

 

[bczygan]

That thread is long because it has all the info you will ever need.

There are links to shorter threads with condensed info:
http://tinyurl.com/CM-Block-Grinders-Resources

http://tinyurl.com/The-Torqueman-YouTube-Channel

Bill

 

[7th Kahuna]

Came with the rubber feet, but they were in the quench tray when I ran my informal test after bringing it home. Wanted to make sure they didn't get lost along the way (one was sitting next to the machine at the sale).

Would removing and remounting the wheels help with a possibly unbalanced situtation, or is this a common "issue" and is mitigated by bolting it down/to something heavy?

How do I tell the condition inside the cord without destructively slicing it open?

I have an identical grinder that I ended up with somewhat accidentally. I bought it for the stand but folks here convinced me to keep it and search out the missing pieces. (Still working on the pieces.) I'm surprised the feet are simultaneously loose and in one piece. Mine were solid as a piece of plastic. I will need to replace them.

With respect to the wheels, take them off and inspect them. The arbor on your machine is 1/2" and the wheel should fit without much play. On my machine I had a bushing on one side to convert the arbor to 5/8", it was so tight on that I had to carefully cut it off with a saw. The wheel, on the other hand, fit over the bushing kind of loose. Bushings are replaceable. I later picked up a parts machine and discovered that the plastic ring (acting as a bushing) that centered the wire wheel had been pushed out of proper alignment and did nothing to center the wheel on the arbor. Though I haven't seen it, I suppose it is also possible that an arbor could become worn across time if the nut had not properly secured the wheel, effectively allowing the arbor to become ground down.

While you are at it, inspect the wheels for damage. not only could a crack or chip effect balance, but you wouldn't want the wheel coming apart on you while you were using it. Reversing the wheels, left to right, might help to identify if it is just one of the stones that is the problem. Perhaps you just need to resurface the wheel. Resurfacing is part of normal maintenance and keeps the wheel flat. If the vibration continues and is minor, then I would guess this exercise is mostly educational. Bolt the machine down and don't worry about it.

As for the cord, I should be more clear. What I meant to say was, flip the machine over and take the plate off the bottom and inspect the wires there. I don't know if it is heat or chemicals or what, but I have found the insulation to be brittle and or missing in this area on a couple of occasions. If the wires are fine there and the cord itself doesn't feel crispy, then I would say you are good to go (and that perhaps your machine hasn't had a lot of use over the years).

 

[7th Kahuna]

I just re read your title. You might be interested to know that this model is often referred to as a 'mailbox' grinder as opposed to a 'block' grinder. There are others here who could offer more detail I'm sure, but the 'block' grinders are generally the next generation flat topped models. From what I can tell however, the 'industrial' class mailbox grinders continued to be produced even after the 'block' style models hit stores. The overlap seems to have existed for several years. Mine was produced in 1972 if I recall correctly.

 

[Richard Cranium]

nice find

 

[pendragon1998]

I have a mailbox restoration in my sig below.

 

[Cruzan80]

That thread is long because it has all the info you will ever need.

There are links to shorter threads with condensed info:
http://tinyurl.com/CM-Block-Grinders-Resources

http://tinyurl.com/The-Torqueman-YouTube-Channel

Bill

Thanks for the info. I got to about pg 10, and at that time, it was still mostly a "showing" rather than "helping". Seen several on restoration, but wasn't sure what needed to be checked on a seemingly good looking one, as well as what was original vs added later. It also seems like the styles changed to a decent degree over time, so what matches a later grinder may not be correct for mine. Still don't understand some of the color schemes going on in that thread, but if it makes the person happy...

For all the rest, both are staying in my shop for the long term forsee-able future. Even if I have to fight off people with a stick for the vise. This brings me up to 3 machinist vises (Big Reed, 4" Athol and this) and a 7" columbian undermount. Going to sell the Wilton my friend got me when I got married (cheaper lineup, made in China version from HD). Served me well getting started, but now needs to help fund other purchases.

Originally the prices were $80 and $40 when I went by at about 9:30am (estate sale). Put offers into the bid box for what I paid, but was seriously considering getting the vise for full price. The grinder I thought was a bit richer, but I was baking on the fact that the entire time I was there, almost no tool more than $15 was purchased. Came back at about 1pm (one day sale) and started talking to the lady in charge about the sockets/rachets/etc. Then threw in the part where I had bids on those two items and she could clear a decent amount of stuff in one purchase and I had the knowledge to remove them. Actually came to a price agreement before I remembered to switch it on (it was just so cosmetically nice)!

 

[Cruzan80]

Update:

They are the original wheels (or at least date to the same time period. Have the old crown-head logo on the paper. Swapped the L/R, installed rubber feet and made sure it was at a level spot in the garage. No walking noticed after 2min of run-time. Shut it down and timed it at exactly 90 sec to come to full stop.

On the right side, the bottom of the front looks different than the left. Seems to have a spot to slide in a tool rest or something similar. Any ideas? Pictures will follow.

 

[WWShop]

I have a mailbox restoration in my sig below.

I just read your entire restoration thread tonight and it looks awesome. Definitely learned a lot too. Just out of curiosity, how did those welds turn out on those cracks?