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SoCal Sawdust

dirt_dobber

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love what you are doing with the flip cart. Itr is on my short list to build and you have great details that I know I would have skipped - but not anymore! thanks for passing on your build. Also, congratulations on the new tax deduction!
 
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Bob Heine

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Sfanale, congratulations on Little Peanut's arrival. Probably one of the most important projects you'll ever have. The $hitty part of the project eventually comes to an end but during that time you do get to see some amazing changes.
 
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sfanale

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Sfanale, congratulations on Little Peanut's arrival. Probably one of the most important projects you'll ever have. The $hitty part of the project eventually comes to an end but during that time you do get to see some amazing changes.

Thanks Bob!
 
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sfanale

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...but with electrical boxes, they always go 'up and down', unless there is a damn good reason it cannot do that.

ahhhh ok that's where you were referring. For actual furniture, I pay attention to that, but for switch plates, I have never cared. Funny how some details can drive you crazy and others you can go for years without ever noticing!
 
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sfanale

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love what you are doing with the flip cart. Itr is on my short list to build and you have great details that I know I would have skipped - but not anymore! thanks for passing on your build. Also, congratulations on the new tax deduction!

Definitely don't build the drawers opening out the end of the cart! I have them loaded up with tools so when I wheel it outside, if I don't stop it ever so slowly, all that momentum throws the drawers open. The drawer slides are slightly sprung to hold themselves closed, but being so loaded up, that function is non-existent. This might have been remedied by using more heavy duty slides, but in this case I will likely just throw a set of butterfly clasps on one side of each drawer since I have them.

Next cart will have the drawers open to the front! Design FAIL.
 
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sfanale

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Coming up for air tonight... Between diapers and bottles I have been able to get a little done around the house. The major change, I FINALLY got the exterior of the house painted to cover up the terrifying Red/Green/Yellow combo!

Before:
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After (landscaping is rapidly approaching so forgive that disaster):
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Before:
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After:
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Before:
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After:
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Before:
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After (little hard to tell in this picture, but note the fence is now about 10' further back opening up the yard a TON):
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Before:
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After:
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I built the outdoor sofa to match the cedar fence. I have two more matching captains chairs to build and this firepit area will be temporarily done for a while.

We went with a seriously bright yellow on the doors :D:
36556620235_719f37b54e_z.jpg


I spent most of today pulling wires to add new lighting to the exterior of the house/garage front so that there is a little character at night:
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and a LED motion sensor security light for the back side of the garage between the fence and structure:
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I wired all the exterior lights on one of these Honeywell Econoswitches. They are somewhat "smart" in the sense that they use your specific long/lat along with the exact calendar day to determine dawn/dusk times. As the year goes on and night falls earlier, the switch adjusts it's its timer settings to make sure the light is always on before the sun sets. I have the two switches set up to flick on at dusk, stay on all night, then flip off at dawn. They also have a random mode which can be used to turn the lights off an on, say if you were on vacation. Of course, they also have a manual bypass switch if you ever want to switch the light on/off by hand. There are fancy-shmancy WiFi switches with the same functionality, but these Honeywell jobs are simple and reliable--straight forward to set up and are relatively cheap for how useful they are, so I totally recommend them for all exterior lighting.
36510983596_ee0501c201_c.jpg


I have some actual "inside garage" projects in the works, but I just HAD to deal with the exterior of my house. I have one more sort of major landscaping project coming next, then its full time garage for the next year or so!


Links to the stuff I used.
Switches: http://a.co/1XROfAj
Lamps: http://a.co/gMSbHra
LED Security Light: http://a.co/hHY1kwS
LED Filament Bulbs (4000K): http://a.co/be87bYw
 
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sfanale

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I have actually gotten a little done inside the garage as well. Mostly, its been "silent" upgrades to just lay the ground work for more major changes. Nothing too exciting, but for the sake of historical documentation...

I have added in a few circuits for outlets and the exterior lighting:
35748065923_ded30eb044_c.jpg


I realize it might be overkill to wire the interior and exterior lights on separate circuits, especially since all the fixtures are LED, but I prefer to "over-wire". 14-2 Romex doesn't cost much anyway!

Speaking of wiring, I got the first run of outlets into one of the walls:
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All the outlets are wired from a 20A breaker, each outlet is 20A rated and wired using screw terminals with pigtails in each junction box so they are all essentially in parallel. Got to go with that "above-code" wiring!

Finally, I made a small modification to the flip-top cart since I found the drawer position led to them flying open every time I stopped the cart after moving it:
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Compared to the butterfly catches, these are a simpler latching type connection so they are super easy to snap open with your free hand as you pull the drawer open with the other.
 
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sfanale

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Can you post a link where you found the draw latches?

I actually don't buy them, I scavenge them off shipping crates we throw away at work. However, a whole variety of them can be purchased online from McMaster Carr: https://www.mcmaster.com/#standard-draw-latches/=18yiwpz

They can also be found on amazon if you search for "Draw Latches" or "Butterfly Latches".

The linear latches I used for the drawer faces are marked "NEFAB" but a quick google search doesn't turn up any purchasable items from that. The butterflies are good, but I wouldn't mind finding a source for the linear ones as they are a little easier to use.
 
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sfanale

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I dedicated this weekend to finally getting some garage time in. Figured I should start with framing out the laundry room space I initially modeled in sketchup. I know in most cases, you build the framing flat on the floor and stand it up in place. However, my garage has all kinds of weird heights that decrease from the walls to the center, so it just seemed easier to build in place...

First thing was to lay out the bottom and top plates:
37106593746_21783f0f64_c.jpg


Then it was off to the races with studs:
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I had to throw together a little blocking to get the ends done properly around the concrete footings of the garage walls:
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I was too in the groove and forgot to take a picture of just the framing before the pegboard went up, but here it is from the back side:
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and the front side facing out to the garage:
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I also framed up the door side (looking from the inside):
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The entire thing from the outside:
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Last shot of the doorway sealed up:
37298228205_0b99b39941_c.jpg


In terms of covering the walls, I have been debating what to use for weeks. In the running (plus my commentary on each in this context):

  • Drywall: NO, JUST NO... too much of a headache for a place where I don't care about the cosmetics as much.
  • OSB: heavy but cheap. I've seen it used here on GJ, but I've also seen people complain about the chips delaminating.
  • Particleboard: Similar to OSB, but has a much smaller particle and is actually cheaper. Also two sided like OSB, however the smooth side is much smoother than its equivalent side on OSB.
  • Plywood: super heavy duty and give me the ability to forget about studs for most mounting applications down the line. To me this also has the most "woodshopy" look, but its very expensive and hard to handle.
  • Pegboard: relatively cheap and easy to handle, but not very strong structurally speaking.
  • Hardboard/Whiteboard: basically the same as pegboard, but no holes.

I choose pegboard and whiteboard for a few reasons. Firstly, they were cheap, $17 and $12 respectively per 4'x8' sheet. With the exception of drywall, the only other material cheaper is 1/2" particle board. Secondly, both come "prepainted" white. I like the idea of particle board because it is even cheaper, very smooth, and easy to work with, BUT I have to paint it and I didn't want to get into that right now. I will probably use partcle board for skinning the outside walls when I get there unless I find a really cheap 1/2" plywood. The clampwall got pegboard treatment as I figure any real clamp racks will be driven into studs and pegboard leaves me the ultimate flexibility for the rest of the wall. The remainder was skinned in whiteboard which gives me a really nice, well... whiteboard. I am always looking for a place to sketch/write down lists as I work, so now I have a BIG OLE whiteboard right there, built into the garage.

Everything is still in a very rough state--there is plenty left for finishing touches. I have to hang the new door in the framing, finish closing up the inside walls (probably the same whiteboard/pegboard combo in there), and then add some trim around the doors. I am also going to add a piece of aluminum right-angle to the outside corner to finish that up and protect it from being bashed. Finally I might do some simple baseboard/"crown" molding to help make it look a little more clean. I need to pick a shop color scheme and I was thinking white walls, grey trim/other, possible third color for serious accenting only.

Anyway, the first cut is always the hardest, now that it is out of the way... should be down hill from here!
 
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ddawg16

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I still would have used drywall.

I don't think you realize how much dust is going to go into those holes in the peg board....that that stuff burns fast in a fire.

Your reason for using pegboard or plywood was so you could hang stuff......

Well, as a fellow woodworker....once you have all your cabinets in....you're not hanging stuff on the walls. I haven't put anything on my walls in years....except for a pic or two.
 
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sfanale

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Ahhh yes the dust! Probably no more than collects EVERYWHERE else in the shop! Also, 70 year old framing burns like crazy, as do the cans of gas, paint, acetone, ethanol, wd40?, well you get my point! The whole structure has the makings of a real tinderbox. A little dust won't hurt at least any more than the rest of the flamables.

To your point of not needing the hanging space, I can agree. I see the pegboard being a one year temporary thing until I feel out the specific mounts and shelves I need. I don't plan to use pegboard anywhere else. The rest of the walls will be solid either particle board or plywood.
 

Bamafan

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That's wonderful! It's amazing how quickly the values in this generation of SL's is rising. Hang on to it and enjoy it for what it is. It will be no time at all before the little one wants a ride.

Deal! I am too lazy to put any context in words so here is an assortment of photos over the last few years:

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sfanale

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That's wonderful! It's amazing how quickly the values in this generation of SL's is rising. Hang on to it and enjoy it for what it is. It will be no time at all before the little one wants a ride.

Yea they have really skyrocked in the last decade. Cooled off a bit this year, but still very collectible at the moment. Don't get too attached though, soon I will be shipping it up to WA state to free up some space in my garage.
 
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sfanale

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Made very little progress this weekend--only really got the door hung and did a slight bit of reorganization.

The way I learned to hang a door comes from Bob Villa's carpenter and is the easiest way I have ever found to accomplish getting a door installed. I even used it on my double french glass doors and it was done in just a few minutes. SO EASY:


So here is my version. Light hollow door only requires three blocks (NOTE, i fixed the gap on the right jam before I shot my nails):
37271407362_80990c25e9_c.jpg


all done and perfectly flush:
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That freed me up to move this rolling rack into the new laundry room temporarily:
37271406552_5395464a3a_c.jpg


Which means this wall is ready for sheathing and paint!
36591099334_90380c2cc0_c.jpg


Hopefully, I will have a big update next week if I can get the first wall covered!
 
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sfanale

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So it took me longer than a week, but I have been able to make a little progress each night and get one wall covered. Here is the point where I made a couple decisions everyone is going to hate, so get it out now...

I used particle board and I put a seam right down the middle of the wall, effectively doubling the number of seams required to do this. Before you all lambaste me, know that I at least took down my PVC airlines (to be later replaced with PEX or Copper) so that should earn me some credit. Now, please feel free to let loose, I will wait...

















DONE?

Good, onto the update:

I started from the electrical panel side since that was the most number of cutouts to deal with. The decision to split the panels down the middle was one of sheer convenience. By landing that seam along the top of the outlets, it was very easy for me to locate and cut the openings. Also, since I am working alone with a bum back, it was much easier for me to maneuver half sheets over full sheets. Basically, I was lazy and I regret nothing!

37586799400_05e628cc0a_c.jpg


Note that I also ran a fat bead of spray foam along the bottom seams. Because my exterior siding is board and batten, there is a huge opening every set of boards that is perfect for all sorts of spiders and bugs to make my walls home. I care less about the insulation (obviously, I have none...) and just want to attempt to stop the migration of bugs into my walls. Kept working my way down the walls until I finished:

37796245456_750d7608f7_c.jpg


I am happy the first wall is covered and I am the first to admit the extra seams aren't the most ascetically pleasing, but I will try and fill them a bit with caulking before I paint it all. The reality is that progressing this project forward means I can move onto a something I am actually excited to start; my new lumber cart!

I borrowed the overall design from pictures I found online, but I narrowed it a good bit to 1) be more efficient with the plywood required and 2) fit better into the recess of the wall next to the garage, which is only about 22":

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I even threw the updated cart design into the overall garage model to make sure things still fit. I also generated a cut list:

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I am hoping to get to some paint up this weekend and clear the way for lumber cart time! Side note, baby Summit says Happy Halloween!
37845018151_67f0ab8272_c.jpg
 
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Dan in Pasadena

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Everything is looking great. Huge congratulations on having your little man! What’s his name - apologies if I missed it earlier in the thread. Also, in what city are you in California?

I’m going to enjoy watching you finish this out - to the degree any of our garages are ever truly “finished”. - Dan
 
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sfanale

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Everything is looking great. Huge congratulations on having your little man! What’s his name - apologies if I missed it earlier in the thread. Also, in what city are you in California?

I’m going to enjoy watching you finish this out - to the degree any of our garages are ever truly “finished”. - Dan

Hi Dan. His name is Salvatore, but since he’s the 5th Sal in a row we call him Summit (his middle name). I’m down in San Diego near La Jolla.
 
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sfanale

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Walls are up and "painted". I say "painted" because I simply used white kilz primer from HD. First coat of primer:

38027966991_36a6c99088_c.jpg


You can see the seams and screws were still very visible. However, after the second coat, everything blended in pretty well. Its not beautiful drywall, but from any more than a couple feet away, it looks pretty solid. Here is after the second coat with a few things back in their temporary locations:

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And here is from the front corner looking back into the garage. Starting to look much more like a shop!

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Now that the first wall is done... its time to start the lumber storage. I think I will be starting with a wall storage solution first because that SHOULD be an easy project with a big impact. After the wall is up, then I will get to the lumber cart.
 
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sfanale

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I've been able to sneak into the garage at night after the little one gets to sleep and I focused on building a lumber storage solution for the now paneled and painted wall. On one of my various adventures through youtube, I had seen someone use short lengths of pipe slotted into 2x4's in the wall. The idea seemed about as simple as it gets in terms of construction and dirt cheap too. So off I went...

Here is the finished product:
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Despite being VERY simple to construct, this entire project was an exercise in repeat-ability and order of operations. A seeming infinite number of holes to drill and so many pipes to cut... I actually put holes every 4" just to leave myself lots of flexibility to reorganize in the future. I also slanted the holes up about 1 degree to try and counter the little bit of slop they had in the hole. In order to facilitate cutting identical lengths of the 3/4" galvanized conduit, I slapped together a little throw-away jig for my saws-all:
38224560406_79f051f389_c.jpg


Of the whole project, the part I am most proud of is how damned close I managed to get the bottom shelf over the drill press when the belt pulley cover swings up. Nailed it, maximal efficiency achieved!
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Once I had all the pipes I wanted cut, it was time to really put the idea to the test:
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I'm a solid 215lbs, and note I am out on the end of the pipes... I was plenty confident these little guys could hold the lumber no problem. Therefore it was time to commence the lumber organization and purging!
38224558856_e2e00280f9_c.jpg


Total project cost was $52 dollars including the lengths of galvanized pipe, 2x4's, and the heavy duty lag screws I ran into the studs. Not bad for a full wall of storage! I still have a good bit more lumber to organize, but I am on my way towards that elusive lumber cart project I teased a few weeks back.
 
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sfanale

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Been slow on the actual shop projects for the last couple weeks, but I did manage to get at least this one corner cleaned out and all the lumber sorted into my new rack:

Before...
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After...
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Instead of construction, I have actually seen the shop turning out real woodworking projects. First up was a retirement gift for a senior member of our company:

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You'll never guess what this holds... ;)
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OK, OK, you probably figured it out!
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It was nice to have a chance to do a little "real" woodworking for a change. Used the company CNC to carve out the caliper layer in the plywood and mahogany. Then, before the glue up, I sandwiched a layer of leather to keep the caliper nice and safe. Many coats of Arm-R-Seal, some paste wax, and hidden hinges and the final product came out seriously nice.

Right after the gift box project wrapped up, I was onto the next--an overly fancy set of ******** boards for a friend of mine.

Walnut plywood tops with pecan edge banding and a white vinyl monogram for the couple.
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I have made several sets of boards for people over the years, but these were by far my favorite. I actually think I might make another set for myself when I get the time. Same Arm-R-Seal here, but only 3 coats and no wax. I have a full sheet of walnut plywood lying around in the garage that needs to be used for something!

I have been dying to get to my lumber cart, but the seems like I am already into the season of gift making which means I will likely not make any shop progress until Jan2018. Anyway, happy Thanksgiving everyone!
 
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sfanale

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I have been off GJ for the holidays, but not out of the garage. Most of the time has been spend knocking a few "honey-do" projects off the list and organizing.

We are replacing a bunch of equipment at work and I managed to come across an industrial HEPA blower unit slated for the scrap heap. I found the fan inside is rated 150CFM, but the big HEPA filter it was blowing through was only rated to 100CFM. I pulled everything apart and scavenged just the fan and some of the useful parts:

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My goal is to build my own air purification box for the shop. I happen to have a line on a second one of these blower boxes, so I am hoping with two of fans set up, I can get close to 300CFM using just a standard furnace filter. I also scrounged some good quality plywood from the trash pile, so hoping to have another zero cost build really soon.

In the mean time, I finally unpacked this little ditty and got it mostly set up:

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I haven't gotten to lay any welds just yet, but its on my list for 2018 as I have a few ideas which will require welding. I still need to get a mig/mix tank and wait for a few more goodies to arrive from amazon before I am ready to get going.

Finally, several years ago, I had a really lucky streak with the scrap piles at work and came up on this beauty of a table:
38857927355_b31397cf23_c.jpg


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It came with leveling feet initially and has been serving as my "anything goes" table-- painting, crafting, potting, you name it... whatever needed a surface for work. I finally got the motivation to drag it out into the garage and start its conversion into a suitable outfeed table for my TS. I threw some nice 4" wheels on it:

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Now it just needs a real top; a scavenged side from a shipping crate has been serving as its top for a couple years. I am thinking about doing a removable top with metal sheet on one side for welding and wood on the other for normal operations. That idea is still noodling around in my head until I get the motivation to finish it. For now, it lives unfinished, but well used.
 
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sfanale

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Unfortunately, my plans for the lumber cart have been a bit derailed, so I pivoted to another area. Namely, getting started on the workbench side of the shop. Not that it was so long ago...but to remind you... I plan to build this storage and work bench area along the back wall of my garage:

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I figured the first place to start was with the large storage cabinet, so I picked up a couple sheets of ply from HD and got to work. I built a really simple carcass, but its all pretty heavy duty and made from 3/4"--even the back panel! It would have been only a modest savings to step down in size on the back panel and this way I had integral structure everywhere I wanted to drive screws when it came time to mounting:

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I drove screws into that center shelf from the outside so it is permanently installed and made the box very rigid. Then, I added four more shelves by glue/screwing a cleat around the three walls so there was lots of support. Before I knew it, the whole cabinet was filled up:

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The shelves are only 24" spans, but I am concerned they might start to bow overtime. I was smart enough to cut the shelves about an inch short of the face, leaving myself room to add a piece of trim across the fronts to ensure they don't succumb to all that weight. I also need to make doors to keep the dust out, but I have been hitting the mother load in shipping crate plywood at work lately, so I have plenty of free material to make those and a few other storage carts.

Also... I never realized just how much **** I accumulated over the course of my major house remodel and many years of garage hording. One example: I made sure to organize like things onto the same shelves and discovered that I have been hording 6 cans of WD40! I get it... WD40 is useful, but my little garage doesn't need 6 cans! I also had a variety of item from home depot still in the original packaging, which when returned (at this point many months later) totaled $58! That did a nice job of offsetting the $90 in new plywood for the cabinet box.

All the storage in the cabinet, plus some tough purging of other things I have been hording, meant I was able to empty an entire wire rack. This left a nice big spot in the garage that I just cant wait to fill up with some shop furniture!

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See, there used to be two racks there! :rocker: Upside... I exposed the sheet of walnut ply I have been saving for too long for another forlorn project. Given how easy it was to fill this single cabinet up, and how I have another full wire rack, I am thinking I might modify my plans and build another matching cabinet across on the left hand side of the bench.
 

Bob Heine

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Given how easy it was to fill this single cabinet up, and how I have another full wire rack, I am thinking I might modify my plans and build another matching cabinet across on the left hand side of the bench.
Sfanale, you make an excellent point. Maximizing workbench area is my default design but every time I do that there isn't enough storage so the bench top becomes storage space. I believe that is a symptom of the Garage Journal ailment known as Flat Surface Disease (FSD). A second storage cabinet would be a good inoculation to prevent that.
 
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sfanale

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Definitely feel you on that one Bob. I spent a bit in sketchup last night rethinking the bench design. I hope to show some progress from that effort in the coming weeks.
 
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sfanale

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Sep 13, 2013
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203
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California
Slow but steady progress in the garage the last few weeks. First thing was just a little organization. Since I am tearing my old "temporary" workbench out, I made space to store some of the things it has been hiding. Back to my ole' trusty friend, the milk crates! The SoCal heat causes the plastic to soften up enough that they long sides begin to sag, so I use cutoffs and scraps to reinforce them top and bottom:
40606196302_a113433728_c.jpg


Next up was a long overdue one, a really basic clamp rack. This was a truly thrown together project with no plan; I had a free hour and was determined to make something that worked:
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Then it was onto the serious work. I tore out the old POS bench that was here in the garage when I bought the house, and packed up all of my pegboard bits leaving me with a beautiful clean canvas:
26776684568_ebef0bfd69_c.jpg


With the wall clean and clear, I ran beads of spray foam along the bottom plate to seal up all the board and batten gaps before I built the second large storage cabinet. You can see I still have my temporary supports under the bottom plates as I haven't built the kick plates just yet...
38837830890_eb8a172c78_c.jpg


Finally, I wired up my bench outlets, skinned the wall with 1/2" sheet, and painted the entire area white:
26776683788_3c950f3995_c.jpg


Now that I have both cabinets built, I really need to get onto the doors! Initially I planned to run the bench all the way to the left wall and build a 7ft bench, but Bob was right, more storage = more better. I have a slightly tricky idea for the benchtop, but hopefully that last job wont be too hard. FAMOUS LAST WORDS!
 
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sfanale

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Sep 13, 2013
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203
Location
California
Workbench is installed!

40026815854_8a5a7bf33d_c.jpg


I ran a cleat along the back wall, and two 2x4" rails hooked into framing hangers. Then I built out a little structure to extend the front, again 2x4". The whole thing is skinned with 3/4" ply and a sheet of hardboard. I used the 18" cutoff to add a little shelf under it--can't have too much storage space!

40694229892_b501eace61_c.jpg



The cabinets are only 24" deep so I wanted to add a little more surface area and bring the front of the bench out to 30". Going with the corner cuts was as much an aesthetic choice as functional; I wanted to give the [future] doors of the two side cabinets some room to breathe when they swing open. I also wanted to prevent any waist-high collisions with a protruding corner :yikes: Plus the corner is just the perfect place to mount this:

40026816294_e1ba82df1e_c.jpg


THE OLE' CRAFTSMAN IS FINALLY BACK IN ACTION! This feels like a big milestone despite the fact that technically, the bench is not 100% finished. I still need to...

  1. add the hardwood face trim
  2. make and paint 4x cabinet doors
  3. determine if I am going with pegboard or a french cleat back wall then make it

...but it just feels damned close to done now!
 

bj383ss

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Sep 29, 2011
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3,166
Location
TX
Shop is coming along nicely. I like how you integrated your bench. The White has really lightened up the area as well. Are you going to put a finish on the bench top?

Bret
 
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sfanale

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Sep 13, 2013
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203
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California
Shop is coming along nicely. I like how you integrated your bench. The White has really lightened up the area as well. Are you going to put a finish on the bench top?

Bret

No plans for finish on the top. The hardboard is pretty tough and easily replaced after I abuse it for a while.
 
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sfanale

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Joined
Sep 13, 2013
Messages
203
Location
California
Now that I have a semi-functional workbench, I am working a lot more in the garage--often times with the garage door shut so the dust is trapped in there. I usually wear an RZ mask, but I eventually like to take it off so this air cleaner project was born. I have been collecting the parts for a while, and I picked up a third fan from the trash pile, so it was time to get to work.

I started by building a little rough box to hold the blower motors:
40644254704_b9c8f30a0b_c.jpg


I'm not showing it in any of the photos, but all the fan wiring was stranded 18awg so I twisted pairs and soldered them solid before twisting on the wire nuts. Next, I finished the box by adding a baffle for the air filters. I found with my first full power test the blowers had enough juice to collapse the flimsy filters so I added a center support and covered it all in a soft 1/8 rubber/foam gasket:
40644251684_99eb4a4eb1_c.jpg


The baffle was placed exactly at the height required for a stack of three standard 14x20x1 furnace filters to rest with just a hair of compression once the lid is clamped down. I taped the three filters together to prevent air leaks between the layers and form a single filter unit:
40644253894_a8f5fa9fb8_c.jpg


The whole box was sized perfectly to slip between my joists and keep things as out of the way as possible. The joists are 2x10", so I was able to hide a bit more than half of the height of the box by mounting it this way. I used two rails down the sides, driving screws into the edge of the ceiling joist, and a few screws from the inside going sideways just for good measure!
40644253014_8ae6b7f15e_c.jpg


Then, I used a few of my favorite scavanged butterfly clamps to lock a lid down:
40644250904_92877c4eca_c.jpg


The last step was to mount the wiring and timer switch. I build the wiring to just run off a standard 15A extension cord; hardwired on one end into the fan junction box, through a timer switch, and then terminating in a standard grounded plug:
40644252274_0b0a274aa8_c.jpg


Overall, it was a pretty easy build...once I had the fans. Coming up on three of those really made this whole thing feasible and kept the costs just under $50 total. Each fan is rated for 200CFM, but I was worried that wouldn't be enough once the filters were installed. I was totally wrong on that front--this thing really howls and moves a S**T-TON of air. Now, I am thinking I should have wired the third fan as a second stage instead of all at once...
 

sdavis622

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Joined
Mar 19, 2014
Messages
518
Location
Surprise, AZ
Wow, great build man! I’ve been keeping an eye out for blower motors on CL so I can build one too. I need to reach out to a guy I know to see if he could hook me up! Great idea on the timer, any reason specifically for using 3 filters? Could you have just used one good one? Just wondering and getting ideas for mine.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
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sfanale

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Sep 13, 2013
Messages
203
Location
California
Wow, great build man! I’ve been keeping an eye out for blower motors on CL so I can build one too. I need to reach out to a guy I know to see if he could hook me up! Great idea on the timer, any reason specifically for using 3 filters? Could you have just used one good one? Just wondering and getting ideas for mine.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


I did see HD has these little guys on pallets for the summer: https://www.homedepot.com/p/VP-20-1...nd-Plumbing-Use-in-Blue-BA-VP-20-BL/303793378

Says its rated to 800CFM, so that might make for a decent option if you are willing to spend the $60 for it.

I have always watched Matthias Wandel's youtube channel, and he as done a lot with homemade dust collectors / fans (
). I beleive he did a test showing that three of the cheapo filters does just as well as the better rated filters. Mostly, my decision was price: each cheap filter was $4 and one "good" filter was $11, with the best filter being $17 each. I think I am going to buy some bulk filters on amazon and maybe go with a progressive set up like this:
  1. value
  2. good
  3. best

Basically, this is all an experiment!
 
Last edited:
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sfanale

Well-known member
Joined
Sep 13, 2013
Messages
203
Location
California
Wow, great build man! I’ve been keeping an eye out for blower motors on CL so I can build one too. I need to reach out to a guy I know to see if he could hook me up! Great idea on the timer, any reason specifically for using 3 filters? Could you have just used one good one? Just wondering and getting ideas for mine.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

How far is Glendale from you??? Free pickup...

https://www.ebay.com/itm/KOOLTRONIC...245114&hash=item43e4b2490c:g:a30AAOSw5VFWKpph
 

sdavis622

Well-known member
Joined
Mar 19, 2014
Messages
518
Location
Surprise, AZ
I did see HD has these little guys on pallets for the summer: https://www.homedepot.com/p/VP-20-1...nd-Plumbing-Use-in-Blue-BA-VP-20-BL/303793378

Says its rated to 800CFM, so that might make for a decent option if you are willing to spend the $60 for it.

I have always watched Matthias Wandel's youtube channel, and he as done a lot with homemade dust collectors / fans (
). I beleive he did a test showing that three of the cheapo filters does just as well as the better rated filters. Mostly, my decision was price: each cheap filter was $4 and one "good" filter was $11, with the best filter being $17 each. I think I am going to buy some bulk filters on amazon and maybe go with a progressive set up like this:
  1. value
  2. good
  3. best

Basically, this is all an experiment!



Yeah I saw those and thought about them. I watch Mathias and John Heiz from ibuildit.ca often, pretty good stuff. Just watched his new air cabinet he finished so its got me motivated. John said in his video he spent like $27 per filter! Crazy!

Great work!
 
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