Mr telsa doesn't have solar already?!?!
I'm surprised Tesla Solar was the lowest priced. Obviously, there are more factors that aren't shown there on the spreadsheet. But 2.3/watt installed and financed seems like a winner-
Mr telsa doesn't have solar already?!?!
I'm surprised Tesla Solar was the lowest priced. Obviously, there are more factors that aren't shown there on the spreadsheet. But 2.3/watt installed and financed seems like a winner-
We did our own self installed ground mount installation about 1.5 years ago, Using 385W Mission Solar panels and a Solar Edge inverter( 7.6KW inverter) All in cost pre-tax credit was about 22K including some tools I had to buy to install it. Just digging the holes for the piers was over 2K. . We purchased the system from a place in Oregon- UnboundSolar. They provided pretty much everything except the conduit, the wiring in the conduit to the inverter and the racking pipes( which we ordered on line from USPipe)- Our system is in AZ so YMMV- but we settled on 9.2KWDC and 7.6KW AC- It's covering charging our cars and almost all of our home's power usage in the cooler months- All electric home. Obviously in the summer with the AC and 110degree heat it's not covering all of our power needs, but it's still keeping the bills under $100/month- We generated and use about $200 worth of power per month right now- so payback is still pretty long at our power rates in AZ ( ~0.13/KWH) So YMMV so to speak.

Have you considered Ground mounting over by the swimming pool, with that layout on the roof, ground mount might be less expensive and require less panels for the same output. We have a steep east west facing roof, and ground mount made the most sense from an ease of installation and actually cost at the end of the day.The DIY cost is right around 40k for the size I want/need for full offset.
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15.5kW solar kit LG 370, Enphase micro-inverters
15.5kW solar kit LG 370, Enphase micro-inverters, LG370Q1C-V5sunwatts.com
plus lift rental cause i got some steep roof sections and i dont wanna die.
rough idea of layout. the garage on the bottom right is 2 stories tall and has a decently steep roof. the main both with the 3 and 4 pack of panels is pretty steep as well.
my next problem is conduit layouts. i dont want the junk rolling over the gutters to get down. i have 2 seperate attics between the garage and main house. both are finished rooms so conduit runs are a *****.
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can't due to offset rules for solar ground mounts. first thing i looked into.Have you considered Ground mounting over by the swimming pool, with that layout on the roof, ground mount might be less expensive and require less panels for the same output. We have a steep east west facing roof, and ground mount made the most sense from an ease of installation and actually cost at the end of the day.
I'm not an expert but with that roof layout you'll definitely want either Micro inverters or Power Optimizers on each panel since they aren't all facing the same directions and therefore will have varied illumination. That is also why you have such a disparity between the DC watts and the AC watts- since illumination isn't even. In my case I have equal illumination so installing 120% DC made perfect sense to maximize my output over the whole day ( we clip at 7.6KW AC mid day in the spring when the panels are still cool) We get about an average of 50-55KWH/day year round out of our system. Again, we're in the desert so YMMV and with that roof layout, I'd guess you will be doing well to get anywhere close to 7.6KW peak AC. You can model the system design and come pretty close to prediction of the power that you'd actually generate with some of the tools at the vendor websites and even the government web site. I'd start with Solaredge.com and see if you can input your design and see what the simulation says In our case the simulation is almost 100% accurate to our actual performance over the last 15 months since we turned on the system.
Edit: https://pvwatts.nrel.gov is another site to get an idea of what the real performance might be.
and at SolarEdge.com you have to log into their "designer" page to actually input a design, you'll have to set up an account there to do that. But it was free and pretty easy as I recall
Bummer- That would likely have been the most cost effective and easiest to install solution.can't due to offset rules for solar ground mounts. first thing i looked into.
I am very happy with Solar Edge Optimizers and their HD inverter- Don't discount looking into them vs enphase- Enphase makes all the wiring AC at line voltage vs DC at 400V - not much different, but a consideration. Also, 7.6KW- puts you into a back fed 40Amp breaker - or at least it did me. over 40Amp, we had to use something that actually fed into the poco meter- so it required another level of installation expertise. Your power company likely has a bunch of solar specifics, I hope you've looked into those. One we almost got caught up in, which is unique to a high solar installation area, The grid wasn't balanced enough to take more solar input- Since been resolved, but that almost stopped our approvals. Seems that with saturation of local solar, the utility company was having issues maintaining regulation at the peak generation part of the day- They had to do some load balancing magic to fix it.yup i def want enphase micros. i also want 400+W size panels which means IQ8's due to clipping.
im right around 16kw system size which by the quotes so far will have a full offset on cost. that plus my SRECs will essentially make payoff sub 10 years.
i could DIY a ground mount no problem. wouldnt even be a thought for me.Bummer- That would likely have been the most cost effective and easiest to install solution.
How does the back fed breaker setup work, specifically dealing with a utility outage? What safety is in place?I am very happy with Solar Edge Optimizers and their HD inverter- Don't discount looking into them vs enphase- Enphase makes all the wiring AC at line voltage vs DC at 400V - not much different, but a consideration. Also, 7.6KW- puts you into a back fed 40Amp breaker - or at least it did me. over 40Amp, we had to use something that actually fed into the poco meter- so it required another level of installation expertise. Your power company likely has a bunch of solar specifics, I hope you've looked into those. One we almost got caught up in, which is unique to a high solar installation area, The grid wasn't balanced enough to take more solar input- Since been resolved, but that almost stopped our approvals. Seems that with saturation of local solar, the utility company was having issues maintaining regulation at the peak generation part of the day- They had to do some load balancing magic to fix it.
I am very happy with Solar Edge Optimizers and their HD inverter- Don't discount looking into them vs enphase- Enphase makes all the wiring AC at line voltage vs DC at 400V - not much different, but a consideration. Also, 7.6KW- puts you into a back fed 40Amp breaker - or at least it did me. over 40Amp, we had to use something that actually fed into the poco meter- so it required another level of installation expertise. Your power company likely has a bunch of solar specifics, I hope you've looked into those. One we almost got caught up in, which is unique to a high solar installation area, The grid wasn't balanced enough to take more solar input- Since been resolved, but that almost stopped our approvals. Seems that with saturation of local solar, the utility company was having issues maintaining regulation at the peak generation part of the day- They had to do some load balancing magic to fix it.
How does the back fed breaker setup work, specifically dealing with a utility outage? What safety is in place?
Exactly-inverters monitor the grid. no grid = they go offline automatically. how they monitor is magic.
As Jeepxj said, the inverter shuts down if the incoming grid power is lost. So no Grid power available, no Solar power available. Thats how the safety interlock works on most systems as far as I understand. Interesting tidbit, The way solar actually feeds the grid is by raising the voltage slightly, so that the current flows from the solar into the load ( your house) or grid if you aren't using all the power the solar is generating- (grid tied, no battery back up grid tie is what I'm referring to) ie if the grid voltage is 240- the solar voltage might be 240.5 - (might be more or less, I'm not sure of the exact voltage difference the inverter uses) so that the current comes from the solar instead of the grid, it's more complicated than that, but that's the just of it. it's actually pretty ingenious that just raising the voltage a little manages the source. Of course the inverter sync's with the grid for frequency too.How does the back fed breaker setup work, specifically dealing with a utility outage? What safety is in place?
Got it. Too bad it doesn't allow for usage when the grid is down, but as the least cost option, it doesn't surprise me.As Jeepxj said, the inverter shuts down if the incoming grid power is lost. So no Grid power available, no Solar power available. Thats how the safety interlock works on most systems as far as I understand. Interesting tidbit, The way solar actually feeds the grid is by raising the voltage slightly, so that the current flows from the solar into the load ( your house) or grid if you aren't using all the power the solar is generating- (grid tied, no battery back up grid tie is what I'm referring to) ie if the grid voltage is 240- the solar voltage might be 240.5 - (might be more or less, I'm not sure of the exact voltage difference the inverter uses) so that the current comes from the solar instead of the grid, it's more complicated than that, but that's the just of it. it's actually pretty ingenious that just raising the voltage a little manages the source. Of course the inverter sync's with the grid for frequency too.
It's a safety thing. I have a friend with a system that has a single 120V outlet that remains powered in a grid down situation, but it's a separate outlet. I can't recall what brand inverter he has.Got it. Too bad it doesn't allow for usage when the grid is down, but as the least cost option, it doesn't surprise me.
Oh, yeah, I know, that's why I was checking. Downside of the lowest cost optionIt's a safety thing. I have a friend with a system that has a single 120V outlet that remains powered in a grid down situation, but it's a separate outlet. I can't recall what brand inverter he has.
If you had a grid tied system with battery back up- it has all the necessary interlocks to disconnect the grid connections during a grid power failure and then supply the house with power from the battery / inverter during that time. I would have done something like that- but it wasn't ever going to be cost effective and our grid ( knock on wood) has been pretty reliable - only outages we've had in 35 years have been storm related, and the biggest one was < 8 hours and the utility had to replace our transformer after a direct lightning strike. That was about 30 years ago.
Got it. Too bad it doesn't allow for usage when the grid is down, but as the least cost option, it doesn't surprise me.

could you build a patio cover/ shade structure and mount some of the modules to that?can't due to offset rules for solar ground mounts. first thing i looked into.
I have IQ7A micros. 405W REC Alpha panels, all flush mounted. I haven't seen any clipping on the curves yet, maybe next month? probably not due to the angle. I see 5.6kW output peak on a sunny day. hitting 3kW+ by 0730.yup i def want enphase micros. i also want 400+W size panels which means IQ8's due to clipping.
im right around 16kw system size which by the quotes so far will have a full offset on cost. that plus my SRECs will essentially make payoff sub 10 years.

probably something like sensorless vector on a VFD. that is also magic.inverters monitor the grid. no grid = they go offline automatically. how they monitor is magic.
What do you mean by flush mounted?
all the stand-offs are the same length. the slope of the panels is equal to the slope of the roof.What do you mean by flush mounted?
Sure can. my cost per watt installed goes up pretty dramatically making the ROI period much longer.could you build a patio cover/ shade structure and mount some of the modules to that?
so jealous of perfectly flat open roofs.
Ah, got it, thanks.all the stand-offs are the same length. the slope of the panels is equal to the slope of the roof.