Solder or braze this?

[4EyedTurd]

Making a couple of fuel quick connect fittings that don't exist. I thought I'd run it by you guys for advice. They will see about 58psi and need to be leak free. I've soldered a few copper pipes in the past but have zero brazing experience. I'm assuming as long as the clearance between the tubing ****** and reducing pipe plug are almost a press fit I would be ok. They won't be holding anything up besides nylon fuel line and see some pressure. Is there a particular solder that would be ideal? Brazing be a better idea?

 

[no704]

You can buy those fittings, or a tool to make them.

 

[Spareparts]

Silver Solder

 

[kd3pc]

IF the RE is actually stainless...as the 304 shows...then soldering it will be an issue...special flux and solder. Flux is corrosive so clean it well

brazing should work with the correct flux, and filler and temp...

I would think they make brass fittings this size?

bests

 

[BFBOB]

Looks like all steel. I'd braze it. Much stronger than solder, and I've had very poor results trying to solder steel. Brazing is easy- you just need an acetylene torch. Much easier than gas welding.
Standard Bernzomatic propane torch won't get hot enough, and MAPP is better, but still marginal.

 

[alexb2000]

Silver Solder

This is what I'd do also.

 

[gorilla]

If that fitting is 304 sst silver soldering is the way to go. The oxidation temperature for sst is slightly above the temperature that silver solder flows at so it's easy to mess up. The flux starts out as a white powder as you heat it up it turns into a liquid when it's sort of a pink color you apply the solder. if the sst turns black stop and clean it up it wont flow when it's oxidizes.

 

[OccupantRJ]

The three rules of soldering are in this order. Clean, clean, and clean. I would use silver solder.

 

[cooljoe57]

Silver Solder is how we repair hydraulic lines at work.

 

[4EyedTurd]

That fitting is stainless but I can get a steel fitting if that would be better.

 

[rustyjames]

I've never tried brazing on stainless, but if everything was steel it would be simple to braze it together.

 

[1953mercury]

TIG weld it. Mike

 

[Dagny]

55 percent silver solder.

 

[NASTYZEN]

Silver is also the way I would go. Brazing and tig would work fine to.

 

[6PTsocket]

Looks like all steel. I'd braze it. Much stronger than solder, and I've had very poor results trying to solder steel. Brazing is easy- you just need an acetylene torch. Much easier than gas welding.
Standard Bernzomatic propane torch won't get hot enough, and MAPP is better, but still marginal.

I hear that what now passes for MAAP is not the hotter burning stuff we used to buy.

Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk

 

[vettex2]

I hear that what now passes for MAAP is not the hotter burning stuff we used to buy.

Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk

you mean MAPP ?

 

[MoonRise]

I hear that what now passes for MAAP is not the hotter burning stuff we used to buy.

Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk

you mean MAPP ?

I believe he is referring to the fact that there is no more actual "MAPP" gas (not counting finding a cylinder here or there at a garage sale or the like).

The 'new' "MAP/Pro" stuff is a little bit of propylene and mostly propane. Maybe 10% or so 'hotter' than plain propane, where the old actual MAPP was about 25% hotter than plain propane.

(propane-air flame temp is about 2700 F, MAPP-air flame temp is about 3670 F, oxy-propane flame temp is about 4600 F, oxy-MAPP flame temp is about 5300 F, oxy-acetylene flame temp is about 5700 F)

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/MAPP_gas

As to the OP's question, either a silver solder or a silver braze filler can be used to solder or braze steel to stainless. Harris Stay-Brite or Stay-Brite-8 are two listed solders. Liquidus temps are 430 F and 535 F respectively. Silver brazing filler is $$$$ and the temps needed are about 1200-1400 F depending on exactly which filler alloy you are using.

And don't forget the flux.

 

[rlitman]

How is that a quick connect fitting? There is no provision to allow the hose to swivel as the thread is tightened.

Is there a reason that a flare cannot be made to work here?

 

[vettex2]

I believe he is referring to the fact that there is no more actual "MAPP" gas (not counting finding a cylinder here or there at a garage sale or the like).

The 'new' "MAP/Pro" stuff is a little bit of propylene and mostly propane. Maybe 10% or so 'hotter' than plain propane, where the old actual MAPP was about 25% hotter than plain propane.

(propane-air flame temp is about 2700 F, MAPP-air flame temp is about 3670 F, oxy-propane flame temp is about 4600 F, oxy-MAPP flame temp is about 5300 F, oxy-acetylene flame temp is about 5700 F)

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/MAPP_gas

Thanks. It figures that they would quit making the thing that works better

 

[ilovevocs]

Thanks. It figures that they would quit making the thing that works better

Don't worry, the marketing gurus made up for the lack of performance by adding "pro" to the name. Perception is reality for the general public.

 

[yaidunno]

How is that a quick connect fitting? There is no provision to allow the hose to swivel as the thread is tightened.

Is there a reason that a flare cannot be made to work here?

Guessing that it is a clip on style connector given the single ridge and lack of barbs on the ******. The line will simply click into the stationary fitting. Thus, quick connect/disconnect.

As for getting the ****** in the fitting, silver solder will do the trick. A propane/fake mapp gas hand torch will do just fine.

 

[rlitman]

Guessing that it is a clip on style connector given the single ridge and lack of barbs on the ******. The line will simply click into the stationary fitting.
As for getting the ****** in the fitting, silver solder will do the trick. A propane/fake mapp gas hand torch will do just fine.

Ah yeah, now I see it. The kind that has an o-ring seal and a release collar.

Yeah, silver solder would be the right answer.

 

[vettex2]

Don't worry, the marketing gurus made up for the lack of performance by adding "pro" to the name. Perception is reality for the general public.

 

[pamike]

I second the vote for tig welding...

 

[4EyedTurd]

While discussing this with a few coworkers they suggested a 1/2" npt to 3/8" tube compression fitting. I had some spare time today so I practiced tigging some tubbing to a pipe plug and it turned out ok so I might give it go that way. Worst case I'll source 2 pipe to compression fittings.

 

[4EyedTurd]

The rabbit hole gets deeper, after looking some more the tubing is apparently called a bundy fitting. I've found a 10mm to 3/8" bundy adapter which lead me to more searching but haven't come up with any npt to 3/8" or 5/16" adapters.

http://www.racetronix.biz/itemdesc.asp?ic=128-3012&eq=&Tp=

Is what got me looking again. If anyone knows where to get some please share. I've got to go from 1/2" npt to 3/8" tube and 1/"2 npt to 5/16" tube, of course if I have to neck it down from 1/2" npt I will

 

[dlwilson]

There are various fittings to go from AN to those quick connectors. Is there something to go from AN to NPT?

 

[Fcvapor05]

1/2" NPT what? Male or female?

I can't see your pics- but Parker or SMC are almost certain to have a fitting that will adapt whatever connections you need.

Don't use push to connects for fuel- you want stainless steel ferrule fittings. Parker A-Lok or Ferulok are my personal favorites.

 

[4EyedTurd]

Sorry, male NPT

 

[4EyedTurd]

Welded it up, not the prettiest thing but it held 60+ psi without a leak.

 

[mikhett]

I would braze it with a torch(turbo) and 15% SILPHOS.

 

[MoonRise]

I would braze it with a torch(turbo) and 15% SILPHOS.

Nope.

Do not use phosphorous containing brazing fillers when brazing steel.

The phosphorous can lead to brittle joints on steel.

The phosphorous content makes the brazing fillers self-fluxing on copper and copper alloys though.

http://www.silfos.com/htmdocs/product_support/alloy_selection_guide.html

 

[gungatim]

silver solder and harris sta-brite flux is my go-to for doing stainless like that. but the weld job looks good!

 

[TooMuchHair]

Looks good. If you need anything else, here is what Parker has.
http://www.parker.com/literature/Brass Products/Bul SAE J2044.pdf

I recently ordered some, the female QD's were less than $4.00, and the male end forms like you welded are brass and cost about $10.00.

Where did you find the 3/8" steel male end form you have? I could actually use those occasionally. Thanks

 

[MedicOC]

Looks good. If you need anything else, here is what Parker has.
http://www.parker.com/literature/Brass Products/Bul SAE J2044.pdf

I recently ordered some, the female QD's were less than $4.00, and the male end forms like you welded are brass and cost about $10.00.

Where did you find the 3/8" steel male end form you have? I could actually use those occasionally. Thanks

They are called weld on fittings. Any reputable hose shop should have them.

 

[4EyedTurd]

Where did you find the 3/8" steel male end form you have? I could actually use those occasionally. Thanks

I bought a 3/8" and 5/16" steel end from Napa,in their fuel line repair section. It's labeled as a sending unit repair line.

 

[TooMuchHair]

Thanks!

 

[nsula_country]

If steel on steel, I would use a prefluxed brass rod. Brazed many hydraulic lines and fittings with a brass rod. Never had a leak at over 2000 psi.

CT

 

[rustyjames]

Same here, brass flux rod; quick, easy and does the job.

 

[buildyourown]

Braze with silver.
Everything needs to be REALLY clean. You actually want a tiny gap so capillary action will pull the silver in. No gap = dry joint
.002-.004 clearance is my target.

Use the regular Harris white flux from your local welding store and 55% silver.
#1 tip on a OA torch or a MAPP torch

Brass wont stick to stainless. Silver will actually be stronger than tig in this app and a no brainer to get leak free