Slightly OT but related, do any US companies make a nice crimper with dies for $300 or less or is it all imported? I see there is a decent set for $100 out of Taiwan (Toptul/Bluepoint) and Knipex has a set but don't know of any US made with similar features. I wouldn't mind investing in a set.
Sargent is still US made, but last I saw, they've stopped making a fair number of die sets.
Pressmaster, though an import, is Swedish. They're also the company that makes the T&B Sta-Kon pair linked. Specifically, they make the
MCT (interchangeable dies) that can be had for ~$50 + dies. So it's possible to get the die you need as well as the frame within the $100 mark (can be had at Waytek <sold under their own name>, as does Wiha). I'd check
kctoolco.com, Amazon, and Waytek for pricing.
Do they not sell separate dies or am i just not seeing them?
This is made by Pressmaster for T&B, and Yes, there are additional dies (
here).
Just be aware, that the selection is fairly limited, and if you need an open barrel set, they have additional alignment pins that mean you'd need a separate tool (pins mean the die can't be removed from the frame, and that particular die set is not sold separately). To see what I mean, take a look at photos of the Xcelite
ECP112 vs. the
ECP100.
These use the same dies as the T&B model linked, the frame is less expensive under the Xcelite brand (slightly older design, but they work well).
Thanks, but unfortunately I don't get any say in procurement. The current roll of solder in my tool box is from Consolidated Alloy, the one before had no markings on the individual rolls. On the rare occasions I do work in my trade at home, I pilfer the solder from my work toolbox.
Can't beat free, and I'd do the same thing in your place.
If possible, you might want to look up the datasheet on what you're currently using to see what it is.
I've not had good luck with no-name solder, so I learned the hard way to stick to the name brand stuff. Hence the mention of Kester (easier to get here). They make 4x different rosin formulations (44 = R <least active>, 186 = RMA, 186-18 = RMA, low solids <both are mildly active>, and 48 = RA <most active>), none of which generally require cleaning (non-corrosive in a solid state). 44 is great for new work, 186 or 48 is better suited to rework and repair (heavily oxidized parts/boards).
Perhaps you might want to go for something else if you're concerned (no idea how it functions otherwise). Since you can't clean flux that's wicked up the insulation, this would be a serious concern to me if I were in your situation, and would do my best to try and figure out what's going on.
Just a suggestion, as I'm not familiar with what you've been using.
As for what I was using and the application, I deliberately avoided that because questions like that usually loaded and more often than not result in the thread becoming a ******* contest.
Understandable, but that wasn't the intent.
Assuming it is rosin, I'm very curious as there aren't a lot of applications that would require cleaning for technical reasons.
The conductors were fracturing just inside the connectors a mm or so up from the solder and all had green corrosion fuzz ringed by a dark brown layer of flux residue. Was vibration a contributing factor, almost certainly, but definitely not the sole cause.
I'd wonder what they were using flux wise (specifics would be critical), and were the joints sealed from moisture?
Assuming it's rosin, it's too dark (over cooked) by your description, and would cause problems. But I see this as operator error, not an inherent flaw in the type of flux used.
Please understand, I've done QC in the past, so this sort of thing interests me.
I've seen/heard the claims that rosin will cause corrosion, but have yet to see real proof (turned out it was exposed to water/corrosive chemicals, flux wasn't rosin <acid used in a repair, or lately, an organic formulation was used rather than rosin>, or operator error <over cooked>).
More recently I had the pleasure of replacing a couple of launcher assemblies on some Andrews parabolic dishes that failed within a couple of months of install. When we got them to ground and pulled the seals the RF connectors that facilitate connection to the feeder coax had failed on the centre conductor. No sign of water ingress (as one would expect in a desert) and once again a green hue to the broken conductor. The wind in this instance would have been a contributing factor, but not the sole cause of failure.
Lead or lead free solder?
I've seen stuff like this with organics more often than anything else (water soluble), due to incomplete cleaning or it was left on and water got in.
The reason I brought up lead-free, is it usually uses the newer flux formulations rather than rosin based.
Seen them online, but never had physical access to one yet.
How is it?
Good, less expensive alternatives would certainly be welcome.
