Some Lathe Stuff

[Cars&Classic]

I am looking to learn a process. by the looks of these post i can learn more in a few reads on here than I can essing up a few parts trying.

I purchased a engine turn kit from eastwood, it is basically a cartrige roll/abrasive type material. the directions say try to apply even pressure. is there a better way than just "feel" to aply pressure?

hoping someone is familure with the process. the best example I can think of for everyone to know what look I am trying to get is the dash insert in a 78 trans am.

thanks for the help.

also what would a good program be for drawing the parts? just a hobbiest so solid works at 2k might be a little over kill.

 

[deere2210]

How about tig welding a bushing to the bars? Could be right through or even welded on top of the tube.
Sorry I hate riv nuts. Specially on something that vibrates.

I could tig a nut on the bars, but they are already chromed so I would need to be real careful as the box has a pretty tight tolerance to where the nut is. A little walk on the grinder prepping the area and it would probably be visible. If I was building them new and having them chromed that would be the way I would do it. The standoff screws seemed an alternative, and have never used riv-nut.

 

[racingtadpole]

The pitfall of riv-nuts is if they are not installed proper tight they can vibrate loose (and then they become a right PITA to remove). If you use them you need to make sure you get the ones with serrated edges that bite into the parent metal to help stop this.

Another alternative is to pop rivet a nut plate onto the outside of the handlebars (not really correct application but what you're doing isnt structural). Something like the K1000 type here would do the trick.

http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/hapages/anchornuts.php?clickkey=4796

 

[Kevin54]

I need to look at the Riv-nuts.. Sounds like an option. I had thought about making my own standoff screws too, but using a single point threading tool, I don't think I can thread to the shoulder tight enough (#4-40, or #6-32). Is a press nut the same as a Riv-nut?

No. They are to totally different critters. I forgot all about Rivnuts. A Rivnut may be a better application for what you are doing because it will swell on the other side containing it. I was talking about a pressnut or commonly called a Pemsert. It is installed from the inside, pulled up into a reamed hole, then the serrations hold it from turning. Some have serrations all of the way up on the shoulder that pulls up into the hole. I gave my buddy my book that had all kind of that info when I retired. I see if I can find a pic.

Here's one that is similiar, but the ones that I am thinking about have a longer serrated shoulder on them. I may be calling it the wrong thing this morning.

Another one that you may want to look at it a Time-Sert. Although I don't know how small they go in size.

Here is one similar to what I was talking about, but still not what I have pictured in my mind

 

[deere2210]

I went ahead and ran the prototype.. Came out good.. Broke a drill bit on one of the #4-40 holes on top which boogered (tech term) the countersync a little bit. No big deal. I also tried a corner rounding tool for the fillet's on top.. Took a little while to figure out the geometry and set it up.. Still need to debur/sand/polish.

If I use a riv-nut, I'm still going to need the offset screw into it, and then the screw from the top of the box into the offset? The box is 1.0" tall. I need to get some and try them on some scrap and see how they work..

 

[deere2210]

Hey, on a similar but different topic.. When I turned my lathe on this weekend, I got a "Maintenance Required" alert. Looked it up and looks like it is a standard maintenance timer based on CS time or Powered on Time for greasing the chuck. It's a BTC 10" 3 jaw true set (scroll) chuck. I can't find anything on chuck maintenance. I called BTC and the guy was no help at all. He faxed me a sales brochure for the chuck. I was going to call the Haas guys since it came with the lathe, but wondering general PM type stuff for chucks?

 

[OccupantRJ]

The switch box came out nice. I wonder how it would look with all the exposed edges rounded over? Just an opinion, but it looks a little "crisp" on the unrounded edges. I bet an acorn style nut with a center hole for the toggle to protrude through for holding the switches in would class it up even more, as it would eliminate the exposed threads around the switches. Got to keep pushing at you, cause you just keep getting better at it.

 

[deere2210]

The switch box came out nice. I wonder how it would look with all the exposed edges rounded over? Just an opinion, but it looks a little "crisp" on the unrounded edges. I bet an acorn style nut with a center hole for the toggle to protrude through for holding the switches in would class it up even more, as it would eliminate the exposed threads around the switches. Got to keep pushing at you, cause you just keep getting better at it.

When I originally drew it out I had all the corners rounded. I am going to round them and see how it looks. The top is a 3/16 fillet, so I'll try the same on the sides. That's an interesting idea on the acorn nut.. I'll draw it out and see how it looks. Keep pushing, lots of good information and I really like doing this stuff!

 

[gorilla]

I had a random thought about mounting that switch box, You could drill through both sides of the bars and use *** bolt's to hold it on. Look up *** bolts in McMaster-Carr. I would not use one from them I would make my own from SS'T.

 

[BMW Rider]

I like the switch box, but agree that the switches need a little dressing up. They look a little too industrial.

 

[jaredfloyd]

I could tig a nut on the bars, but they are already chromed so I would need to be real careful as the box has a pretty tight tolerance to where the nut is. A little walk on the grinder prepping the area and it would probably be visible. If I was building them new and having them chromed that would be the way I would do it. The standoff screws seemed an alternative, and have never used riv-nut.

Not sure how it would work on a chromed surface but you might consider the Flowdrill process. I haven't used a Flowdrill personally but have designed production chromoly tubular A-Arms with Flowdrill/threaded holes that worked really well. You can buy the Flowdrill tools at Trick Tools.
http://www.flowdrill.com/
http://vansantent.trick-tools.com/search?view=grid&w=flowdrill&x=0&y=0

 

[deere2210]

I had a random thought about mounting that switch box, You could drill through both sides of the bars and use *** bolt's to hold it on. Look up *** bolts in McMaster-Carr. I would not use one from them I would make my own from SS'T.

I had never heard of a *** bolt.. I checked it out and have seen those before after looking at them.. I don't think it will work as the master cylinder butts up against it and pretty sure it might conflict with it.

I like the switch box, but agree that the switches need a little dressing up. They look a little too industrial.

Yes, I agree.. I was doodlling today and came home and made a couple quick changes.. See updated pic below. I think what I really need are smaller lower profile switches. I found some at Drag Specialities but the are $15/each.. I might just use these for now, and can always go back and change..

Not sure how it would work on a chromed surface but you might consider the Flowdrill process. I haven't used a Flowdrill personally but have designed production chromoly tubular A-Arms with Flowdrill/threaded holes that worked really well. You can buy the Flowdrill tools at Trick Tools.
http://www.flowdrill.com/
http://vansantent.trick-tools.com/search?view=grid&w=flowdrill&x=0&y=0

Wow! I checked out the video.. I had never seen one of those before.. That would probably work great, but that $1,000 entry level kit puts a barrier up..

 

[deere2210]

What do you think of this one? Dropped it .1 in height, and added the big radiuses on the ends, and some quick drawn acorn nuts..

 

[OccupantRJ]

Keep the small radius on the corners. The large radius loses something. If the round device is a push button, can you not put an acorn style nut on it also?

 

[deere2210]

Keep the small radius on the corners. The large radius loses something. If the round device is a push button, can you not put an acorn style nut on it also?

I don't think I can put an acorn on it. The acorn would block the downward plunge if it is the same height as the other acorns.. I ordered some screws from Mcmaster tonight so can try and mount it to a piece of scrap DOM this weekend and see what it looks like. The other thing I need to look at is that push button is for the turn signal and will drive the control side circuit on a standard car relay and flasher can I want to wire in. Will need to keep the button pushed down to keep the turn flasher going. I don't think it will be a problem since I'll use hand signals most of the time. Ohio won't title it without turn signals, speedo, headlight, brake light..

 

[ScottS]

Will need to keep the button pushed down to keep the turn flasher going.

Could you use a timer in the circuit so you would not have to hold the button down?

Like this?
A little crude but it does get to the point.

You may not want to. I am not an expert on the subject it might make a little more wow factor. ( yeah like it ain't an excellent lookin project already. )

Scott

 

[deere2210]

Little stumped on this one... How would you guys go about machining this thing? It's a mock up of a billet left handlebar grip I want to do to match those footpegs I turned. The O.D. profiling I don't think is a problem, but the inside bore I.D. is 1.0625 and is 4.97" deep. Would you drill it all the way down with a a 1" drill and then take out the last .0625 with boring bar? What about facing the bottom of the hole, that's going to be a problem with a .75 or 1" boring bar which will hit the other side I believe before crossing the centerline... Also, I've looked at 1" drill bits but most seem like they are only 3" at that size? Ideas?

 

[A_Pmech]

Little stumped on this one... How would you guys go about machining this thing? It's a mock up of a billet left handlebar grip I want to do to match those footpegs I turned. The O.D. profiling I don't think is a problem, but the inside bore I.D. is 1.0625 and is 4.97" deep. Would you drill it all the way down with a a 1" drill and then take out the last .0625 with boring bar? What about facing the bottom of the hole, that's going to be a problem with a .75 or 1" boring bar which will hit the other side I believe before crossing the centerline... Also, I've looked at 1" drill bits but most seem like they are only 3" at that size? Ideas?

Design changes could remove the need for a flat bottomed hole. If you really need a flat bottomed hole I'd drill it to within 3/8" of depth and finish the hole with a flat ground drill. You can modify the drill freehand on a bench grinder with a toolroom wheel. I made this one to create a flat counterbore about 7 diameters deep in aluminum:

Jobber and Taper length drills at that size are substantially longer than 3". The drills you're looking at must be Silver and Deming drills.

The procedure I'd use:

Drill the hole to depth with a 1" taper or jobber length drill.
Grind a drill flat and drill the last bit to arrive at a flat-bottomed hole.
Ream or bore to size (drilling will provide sufficient location if done correctly.)
Chamfer the hole end slightly at 60 degree included angle.
Bring the tailstock live center into the tube mouth.
Do necessary external work between centers (otherwise the knurl won't turn out and chatter is a risk.)
Saw off or part it off at low speed with a catch basket.
Mount the part in plastic soft jaws and face back end in a second op.

 

[deere2210]

Design changes could remove the need for a flat bottomed hole. If you really need a flat bottomed hole I'd drill it to within 3/8" of depth and finish the hole with a flat ground drill. You can modify the drill freehand on a bench grinder with a toolroom wheel. I made this one to create a flat counterbore about 7 diameters deep in aluminum:

Jobber and Taper length drills at that size are substantially longer than 3". The drills you're looking at must be Silver and Deming drills.

The procedure I'd use:

Drill the hole to depth with a 1" taper or jobber length drill.
Grind a drill flat and drill the last bit to arrive at a flat-bottomed hole.
Ream or bore to size (drilling will provide sufficient location if done correctly.)
Chamfer the hole end slightly at 60 degree included angle.
Bring the tailstock live center into the tube mouth.
Do necessary external work between centers (otherwise the knurl won't turn out and chatter is a risk.)
Saw off or part it off at low speed with a catch basket.
Mount the part in plastic soft jaws and face back end in a second op.

Thanks!! I didn't think of grinding a drill flat. I am going to re-look at it and see if I really need the flat bottom. After thinking about it I don't think I do. I patterned it after a factory one I saw. The drills I was looking at were Silver.. I found a longer taper one at 1". Do you make your own plastic soft jaws?

 

[A_Pmech]

Do you make your own plastic soft jaws?

Yes, I make all my own soft jaws. I built fixtures which make the process very fast. I make 10-50 sets at a time, so there's no hemming and hawing over whether to use some or not.

Keep in mind that plastic jaws will not tolerate high clamping forces, large overhangs or heavy cuts. They're for light finish work only!

 

[deere2210]

I picked up an Autometer speedo and Accel oil gauge for the build. Need a mount for them, and saw one on the rockerbox so thought I'd give it a try. I also was in Lowes this weekend and found .25 craft board for $2.00.. Really works well for prototyping. Pics below are using a DXF file I drew in SW and then laser cutting it out to verify dimensions and looks. Just need to create some toolpaths and mill it out..

 

[ClickClickBoom]

Re: Some Lathe & Mill Stuff

Here are a couple additional pics of the stand and a Solidworks pic to help see it better.. Real easy to build.. Base is wide enough that when it is upright in the vertical it is still solid.. Can roll it all over the garage.. Wheels are 5x2..


Can you post the dimensions for this? How long are the legs? Stable enough? Anything you'd do different?

 

[deere2210]

The base is 2x2 square tubing.. Total width is 36", and the legs where the casters attach are 20". Height is 20". I will try and dimension the drawing out and post a little later so you have all of them. There's nothing I would really change.. It has been very stable, no issues with turning over and I've run it up vertical quite a bit also. Make sure you get the wheels with locks on all four wheels. When it is upright, it will want to move around and being able to lock all four made it real stable. Only other thing I might do in the future is rig a flood coolant up on it. I'll try and post the drawing a little later..

 

[NASTYZEN]

Deer, you look like your having to much fun.
Nice projects, keep them coming.
Can you cut thin metal with that laser? One day I may look into having one, but it would need to be a bit more powerful. Looks like it works well for prototyping bits.
Those 3D printers are pretty cool and affordable now too.

 

[ClickClickBoom]

The base is 2x2 square tubing.. Total width is 36", and the legs where the casters attach are 20". Height is 20". I will try and dimension the drawing out and post a little later so you have all of them. There's nothing I would really change.. It has been very stable, no issues with turning over and I've run it up vertical quite a bit also. Make sure you get the wheels with locks on all four wheels. When it is upright, it will want to move around and being able to lock all four made it real stable. Only other thing I might do in the future is rig a flood coolant up on it. I'll try and post the drawing a little later..

Thanks, that give me a good idea of what to build. Being 6 4", I look a bit comical using the saw on the current stand.

 

[deere2210]

Thanks, that give me a good idea of what to build. Being 6 4", I look a bit comical using the saw on the current stand.

Sorry, still figuring my way around SW drawings.. PM me if you have questions or need more dimensions and will be glad to help. Here is one more..

 

[Kevin54]

Steve....I know you are in the mockup stage on things, but make sure you use stainless fasteners so you don't have rust starting. Allen screws will rust rather quickly exposed to the elements.

 

[deere2210]

Steve....I know you are in the mockup stage on things, but make sure you use stainless fasteners so you don't have rust starting. Allen screws will rust rather quickly exposed to the elements.

Kevin, thanks! I've been buying SS fasteners from McMaster. The stock ones from HD I don't believe are SS and are junk.. Quick to strip the heads on them. What's your opinion on 316 SS -vs- 18-8 SS for these types of things? McMaster sells both grades. I've been buying mostly 316.

 

[deere2210]

Deer, you look like your having to much fun.
Nice projects, keep them coming.
Can you cut thin metal with that laser? One day I may look into having one, but it would need to be a bit more powerful. Looks like it works well for prototyping bits.
Those 3D printers are pretty cool and affordable now too.

Thanks! I'm having a good time with them. I can't cut metal with the laser unfortunately. It's a C02 laser and is good on everything except PVC (puts off caustic fumes). I can mark metal using a thermal mark spray, or cut up to .5 on wood, acrylic, etc.. I was looking at the 3D Printers.. Saw a guy actually print a wheel for a suitcase on one that was fully functional - really slick. ABS plastic. I am keeping my eye on them as the price comes down..

Here's a preview of my upcoming winter project.. My wife loves to BBQ & run the smoker, and gave me requirements for a new one.. Old one is in bad shape so picked up an old air compressor to use to make a reverse flow smoker.. More to come on this one...

Burned out firebox

Compressor is a Buckeye Compressor and says Made in Dayton, OH... Just up the road.. I'm going to torch it off.

 

[ClickClickBoom]

Thanks for the assist on the saw stand. I modified it a bit based on the steel I could get from the drops pile. 2x3 thick wall for the bottom (Figured the extra weight would help stability) and 1x1 for the uprights.

I also just built a rectangle base for the saw to sit on, and welded tabs on the outside to bolt the saw too. Made it a bit easier to put together instead of putting clips on the inside, and having to measure all the holes, ect

 

[king nero]

Kevin, thanks! I've been buying SS fasteners from McMaster. The stock ones from HD I don't believe are SS and are junk.. Quick to strip the heads on them. What's your opinion on 316 SS -vs- 18-8 SS for these types of things? McMaster sells both grades. I've been buying mostly 316.

18-8 should be AISI 304 (but there's no "real" way of telling, like in: I can sell duct tape that's called 18-8) ; where 316 is AISI 316 (obviously).
316 should be the more costly one, is a bit more alloyed with chromiun and nickel, and is more resistent against corrosion. and has a higher yield point.

 

[deere2210]

Thanks for the assist on the saw stand. I modified it a bit based on the steel I could get from the drops pile. 2x3 thick wall for the bottom (Figured the extra weight would help stability) and 1x1 for the uprights.

I also just built a rectangle base for the saw to sit on, and welded tabs on the outside to bolt the saw too. Made it a bit easier to put together instead of putting clips on the inside, and having to measure all the holes, ect

No problem, glad to help! Great looking stand! Putting wheels on them sure makes them easier to move around than the original HF stand. I've used mine alot. Put a good blade on it and it's ready to cut..

 

[deere2210]

18-8 should be AISI 304 (but there's no "real" way of telling, like in: I can sell duct tape that's called 18-8) ; where 316 is AISI 316 (obviously).
316 should be the more costly one, is a bit more alloyed with chromiun and nickel, and is more resistent against corrosion. and has a higher yield point.

Thanks for the info.. I have most experience (still very limited) with 3xx series so I had been buying 316.

 

[deere2210]

My wife walks out to the garage last night holding a broken handle from one of the recliner's on her sectional couch.. I could see it coming... "We need a new couch, the handle broke and I can't use the recliner any more..".. The thing snapped right off at the handle where you pull up to extend it.. Figured billet would work better.. :> Through a drawing of the old piece together and fired up the mill.. She's happy, and I'm not heading out tomorrow to look for couches!

 

[jhn9840]

Cool deal. Looks better then original. Always good to keep the lady happy.

jhn9840
John

 

[KenS]

My wife walks out to the garage last night holding a broken handle from one of the recliner's on her sectional couch.

Yipes! The new handle's worth more than the whole couch!

Wonderful job.

 

[OccupantRJ]

Most excellent! You just bought yourself a lot of wife projects.....

 

[deere2210]

LOL.. I think she is starting to get this mill/lathe thing as she calls it.. I watched as her light bulb lit up.. New cabinet knobs, paper towel racks, etc.. I told her to really round out and do everything she wants it really requires a CNC plasma cutter.. :>

 

[camarotoolman]

Nice car, love the wheels, they the ones I want for my 69 camaro.

 

[deere2210]

Nice car, love the wheels, they the ones I want for my 69 camaro.

Thanks!! Went round and round picking them out. TT2's with low profile rubber..