Something wrong with my M18 fuel?

[abvw]

Loctite will eat impact drivers for breakfast. You DON'T use impact drivers fixin' cars, thats what an impact wrench is for. If you're turning nuts and bolts, you use sockets; if you're turning screws, you use 1/4" bits (philips, square, etc etc).

Why do you think Snap-on doesn't carry impact drivers? It's because screws are only used for light duty fastening and 99% they're fastening plastics together, which the right tool is a cordless screwdriver (if you use impact driver on automotive screws you're an idiot).

I had to chisel a few rusty and rounded fasteners off, does that mean I should use an air hammer to remove fasteners? Just because you can, doesn't mean you should.

 

[truckdriver]

To the OP, sorry for all the ******** in this thread. The Milwaukee is more than powerful enough for this job. You need to get ahold of Milwaukee CS and have it repaired/replaced. It has a 5 yr warranty.

 

[Kracin]

Loctite will eat impact drivers for breakfast. You DON'T use impact drivers fixin' cars, thats what an impact wrench is for. If you're turning nuts and bolts, you use sockets; if you're turning screws, you use 1/4" bits (philips, square, etc etc).

Why do you think Snap-on doesn't carry impact drivers? It's because screws are only used for light duty fastening and 99% they're fastening plastics together, which the right tool is a cordless screwdriver (if you use impact driver on automotive screws you're an idiot).

I had to chisel a few rusty and rounded fasteners off, does that mean I should use an air hammer to remove fasteners? Just because you can, doesn't mean you should.

"if snap-on doesn't carry it, it's not for cars"....

 

[BFHtime]

I have used the Makita brushless that came with the hammerdrill to remove all kinds of bolts on cars. Crank, subframe, thread locked, and corroded bolts have given it a hard time. I have removed lugs that were torqued to spec. I have dunked it in a combination of manual trans fluid, engine, oil and some other stuff. I blew it out with air and it worked. It still works great. It leaked for a little bit, I just wiped it off, over the next few days.

I use all kinds of adapters and extensions with it. Having this tool made me buy more tools to use with it, it has been so useful. the battery lasts a long time.

I also have the first brushless Makita came out with, that has the three speeds, I got this one first. The low setting is great for plastic, the second setting is great for screws and most nut & bolt applications, the third is for max torque power. This one has not had the same use as the single speed. I like the three speed better though, as I have stripped some bolts with the one speed tool.

I think the sound of air tools as well as the feel gives more feed back when something is about to give compared to electric tools. But electric tools are not as bad on my hearing. I strongly suggest the the three setting tools over the one setting, I do have both.

If the hex driver can't break something free, I go to a Snap-On 1/2 cordless or a breaker bar 2 or 3 foot. This has been my experience. 1/4 and 3/8 tools may have more torque, but often they do not which is why I go straight to 1/2", if something is stuck. This has been my experience I hope it helps.

To the op bring the tool back and have it tested, may the speed control is not working properly, even though it lights up. THE Milwaukee should not have a problem with that situation.

Torque a bolt to spec 100lb or so, if it can't it off, then exchange it. To spec means using a torque wrench, just to be clear.

 

[kc-steve]

Whew! Interesting reading this thread. I WAS thinking about buying one of those kits that were on sale over the holidays but after reading this thread I think I'll just stick to my compressed air ratchet and wrench, just to make sure it works when I need it.

Steve

 

[Todd.Brock]

I have used the Makita brushless that came with the hammerdrill to remove all kinds of bolts on cars. Crank, subframe, thread locked, and corroded bolts have given it a hard time. I have removed lugs that were torqued to spec. I have dunked it in a combination of manual trans fluid, engine, oil and some other stuff. I blew it out with air and it worked. It still works great. It leaked for a little bit, I just wiped it off, over the next few days.

I use all kinds of adapters and extensions with it. Having this tool made me buy more tools to use with it, it has been so useful. the battery lasts a long time.

I also have the first brushless Makita came out with, that has the three speeds, I got this one first. The low setting is great for plastic, the second setting is great for screws and most nut & bolt applications, the third is for max torque power. This one has not had the same use as the single speed. I like the three speed better though, as I have stripped some bolts with the one speed tool.

I think the sound of air tools as well as the feel gives more feed back when something is about to give compared to electric tools. But electric tools are not as bad on my hearing. I strongly suggest the the three setting tools over the one setting, I do have both.

If the hex driver can't break something free, I go to a Snap-On 1/2 cordless or a breaker bar 2 or 3 foot. This has been my experience. 1/4 and 3/8 tools may have more torque, but often they do not which is why I go straight to 1/2", if something is stuck. This has been my experience I hope it helps.

To the op bring the tool back and have it tested, may the speed control is not working properly, even though it lights up. THE Milwaukee should not have a problem with that situation.

Torque a bolt to spec 100lb or so, if it can't it off, then exchange it. To spec means using a torque wrench, just to be clear.

I'm calling BS. There ain't no makita that takes out no threaded fastener. Or tightens 'em. Period

That's why God gave us the Fuel ( bless his name)

Just kidding. Sort of...

OP, I have had some odd things happen like that before with my cordless tools. It could have been any number of things. Try to reinstall the bolts and try again. If you have a torque wrench , tighten a couple bolts down to the rated torque and give it a whirl. If you are still under warranty trade it in if you think it's bad... Good luck !

 

[stewie97]

You said impact driver not impact wrench. A 1/4" hex drive impact driver has much less torque than a 3/8" square drive version of the same exact tool. I know as I have both. The hex to square adapter acts like a torque stick and flexes which steals power. Also the sloppy fit of the hex to square adapter into the hex quick release socket steals power as well. Hex impact drivers are for driving screws. Impact wrenches are for driving bolts.

As I stated I have both versions of this exact tool. The 3/8" impact wrench version has 200ft-lb of torque all of which gets to the bolt. I would be surprised if the impact driver with the adapter can do more than 50ft-lb. One thing that will definitely help is using the Milwaukee shockwave hex to square adapter. They are shorter than most and seem to be more resistant to twisting which aids in torque transmission.

These are garbage - I have broken three of them with our little m12 impact driver. We only use it to open and close the vices on the CNC.

 

[TOOL FANATIK]

"meant for driving screws"

while the impact kit comes with adapters for 3/8" and 1/2" square drive for sockets, as well as drill bits for drilling.....

i think somebody misinformed you about a few things, i use mine all the time at work for bolts, nuts, concrete anchors, etc.

Scimmia is correct, somewhat.
Initially impact drivers were meant for driving screws, but the attachments that have come out along the way make an impact driver extremely versatile. However, the right tool for that job would be a ratchet, or 3/8 impact gun.

 

[neonlazer]

Brake the bolts with a ratchet then take it off with the impact driver. Impact driver is good for taking off smaller bolts, but suspension stuff. Impact wrench territory.

 

[TOOL FANATIK]

don't put an auger into a 1/2" impact with a hex adapter... you're asking for trouble.

You can do that and it's fine. But if you have the right tool you wouldn't have to. You wouldn't see a pro doing that. Nothing wrong with it, but the fact remains it is not the right tool for the job. I myself use my impact driver for almost everything. But I have enough sense to know there is a better option.

 

[dnschmidt]

A good point was made that CALIPER bolts (these are the ones that the caliper slides on) should have been able to be removed with this I agree. However, the bolts that hold the caliber to the steering knuckle, at least on my W body Pontiac, are torqued to 120 ft-lb and MUST be installed with RED Loctite according to the FSM. So those aren't going anywhere with an impact driver. Had to whip out the Aircat 1250K for those suckers.

Let's make sure we're talking about the right bolts is all I'm saying. If we are not this entire thread is a waste.

 

[BFHtime]

On the bigger/higher torque fasteners, once the bolt is broken free you can run them out with the hex impact driver. When tightening things down I usually use the hex impact to run things in, and then torque to spec. Things move quick this way.

 

[afbrian13]

Even when taking a car or any other mechanical thing apart, its still good practice to break things loose with a box wrench, or breaker bar, then ratchet it after the intitial torque is broken. You have a lot more control. Impacts have their place for stuff that wont break loose, but only on large enough fasteners that wont snap.
I'm planning on buying the 1/2 drive fuel impact for the garage, despite having the impact driver.
I used the driver yesterday for what its good at, driving 3 1/2 in framing scews.
Never crossed my mind to use the impact SCREW driver on bolts. Not what its meant for, but if it works on some smaller stuff all the better.

 

[GSteg]

why do you think snap-on doesn't carry impact drivers? It's because screws are only used for light duty fastening and 99% they're fastening plastics together, which the right tool is a cordless screwdriver (if you use impact driver on automotive screws you're an idiot).

ct561

 

[Kracin]

ct561

are you KIDDING ME!? (this is great news)

Description
General Applications
•Great for restricted access areas, for under dash work and installation and removal of automotive interior components.
•Metal Working
•Self-Tapping Fasteners
•Bolts
•Anchors
•Tapcon Screws
•Running Stainless Fasteners
•Driving TEK Screws
•Pilot Holes
•Pre-drilling
•Pan Head Screws
•Breaking Loose Rusted Screw and Nuts
•HVAC
•Automotive Repair
•Electrical and Lighting
•Plumbing
•Appliances
•Assembly
•Construction

well this is a game changer, now that snap-on says it's ok. the argument is over. a hex driver is used for nuts, bolts, and interior fasteners...

glad we had this talk gentlemen

 

[stikman56]

ct561

The CT561 is a 3/8" mini, 7.2 volt impact. They do make a version of that with the 1/4" hex, I believe it's the CT561QC. And Snap-On DOES sell impact drivers. They even have a version of the CT4410A that is a 1/4" hex quick connect, the CT4410AQC. In no way saying I'd buy one for nuts and bolts, but you are mistaken ,!whoever it was) that said that Snap-On does not offer them.

 

[Ryan]

This thread has been cleaned up. Please keep in mind that we don't host ******** grade school arguments over tools here. Thanks!

 

[TOOL FANATIK]

That tiny thing IS NOT what we've been talking about! That thing and an m18 or any other real impact driver don't compare. Stop going into the particulars, I see you have become desperate. You didn't even know that tool existed! Plain and simple, the OP used the wrong tool for the job.

 

[kelpaso1]

Since I got my Dewalt 20V MAX impact driver along with 1/4 and 3/8 socket adapters I rarely ever use my 3/8 air impact gun anymore. To say it is the wrong tool you are so far off in la la land

 

[Kracin]

That tiny thing IS NOT what we've been talking about! That thing and an m18 or any other real impact driver don't compare. Stop going into the particulars, I see you have become desperate. You didn't even know that tool existed! Plain and simple, the OP used the wrong tool for the job.

So because I dont post it first I didnt know ? Odd way of thinking, and dismissal of the fact that manufacturers specifically state that they are the right tool for the job. Hex impact is hex impact, a 1/4 wrench that fits 1/4 bolt heads is just as right as a 1/4 socket on a 1/2 drive wrench. If a simple analogy is too much for you to compare a small hex driver that turns small bolts, anf a large hex driver that turns large bolts, then there is a bigger issue here than deciding what is the right and wrong tool.


Also you never told us how you come to the conclusion that a tool is right or wrong for the job before ever doing the job? Insight please?

 

[itguy08]

Let's bring it back to the OP's question....

What is the torque specs of the bolts in question?

Here is the specs of the Fuel impact driver:
Specifications
M18 FUEL™ 1/4" Hex Impact Driver (2653-22)
Volts: 18V
Peak Torque: 1600 in-lbs (133 ft-lbs)
Max RPM: 0-2900
Max IPM: 0-3600
Tool Length: 5-1/2”
Tool Weight (w/ battery): 3.6 lbs

It should have been able to do the pins but the caliper bracket bolts would be iffy. That is if there was no rust/corrosion/etc in the way.

 

[Burgerkong]

Wow, I thought it would be easy to find a comparison from a manufacturer but there isn't one. That being said, my Bosch impact driver is noticeably forward biased. I can hammer on the nut until it doesn't turn but I can't undo it in reverse. Food for thought?

Always thought wrenches were also biased, although in reverse.

 

[chrisexv6]

A friend of mine was just trying to take the caliper slider bolts off his Avalanche. They use a torx head (dumb!)

He said no amount of PB blaster, hammering on a wrench, etc has gotten them to budge.

I would not be surprised if an M18 impact wrench wouldnt budge them either. I think its very dependent on the specific application and maybe even environment. Salt on the roads in the winter will corrode everything. Yes they could be torqued to "just factory specs" but add in corrosion, age, etc and all bets are off as to what it would REALLY take to back them out.

I actually told my friend it might be easier to take off the caliper mounting bolts than the slider bolts themselves!

 

[rice rocket]

I never remove the slider bolts unless the caliper is sticking, just remove the whole bracket.

 

[kelpaso1]

I never remove the slider bolts unless the caliper is sticking, just remove the whole bracket.

Well that's a lazy, half assed way to do a brake job for a paying customer

Caliper slider pins should ALWAYS be taken out, cleaned and lubed. I'll make sure to avoid your shop for any repair work if that's how you guy's do things there

 

[SuzukiGS750EZ]

Well that's a lazy, half assed way to do a brake job for a paying customer



Caliper slider pins should ALWAYS be taken out, cleaned and lubed. I'll make sure to avoid your shop for any repair work if that's how you guy's do things there

Agreed. I always do the same. Lube the slide pins, clean and lube the brake pad shims if they don't come with them and maybe anti sieze the actual bracket bolts.

 

[kelpaso1]

Agreed. I always do the same. Lube the slide pins, clean and lube the brake pad shims if they don't come with them and maybe anti sieze the actual bracket bolts.

Actually I use blue locktite on any brake bolts. Acts like antisieze but locks the bolt in place. I don't like to use red locktite because I don't think it is necessary and makes disassembly much more difficult.

 

[SuzukiGS750EZ]

Red loctite is the devil.

 

[t4runner]

As has already been said WRONG TOOL FOR THE JOB.

 

[kctyphoon]

Well NO WONDER you couldn't loosen that screw. Didn't know know that you can't put a phillips head bit on a ratchet? Ratchets are bolts silly -

 

[SoDoodoo]

A friend of mine was just trying to take the caliper slider bolts off his Avalanche. They use a torx head (dumb!)

He said no amount of PB blaster, hammering on a wrench, etc has gotten them to budge.

I would not be surprised if an M18 impact wrench wouldnt budge them either. I think its very dependent on the specific application and maybe even environment. Salt on the roads in the winter will corrode everything. Yes they could be torqued to "just factory specs" but add in corrosion, age, etc and all bets are off as to what it would REALLY take to back them out.

I actually told my friend it might be easier to take off the caliper mounting bolts than the slider bolts themselves!

Like, i said the brake were done less than 1k miles ago. We live in Hawaii where there is no salt on the road. It was a 14mm bolt off a 2010+ Rav4. I was able to remove easily with a ratchet, and my co worker's porter cable was able to zip one off no problem.

 

[kctyphoon]

Just a thought - instead of sitting here wondering - just go buy another one. Bring it home, compare the two and decide if something is wrong, and then take it from there..

 

[itguy08]

Like, i said the brake were done less than 1k miles ago. We live in Hawaii where there is no salt on the road. It was a 14mm bolt off a 2010+ Rav4. I was able to remove easily with a ratchet, and my co worker's porter cable was able to zip one off no problem.

Then you may want to take it in for service. That should not be normal with over 100 lb-ft of torque.

 

[SuzukiGS750EZ]

Like, i said the brake were done less than 1k miles ago. We live in Hawaii where there is no salt on the road. It was a 14mm bolt off a 2010+ Rav4. I was able to remove easily with a ratchet, and my co worker's porter cable was able to zip one off no problem.

Do you drive around with your brakes on? 1000 miles for a set of pads? Or am I missing something. My Milwaukee m18 fuel 3/8 impact won't remove bracket bolts but will do the slide pins.

 

[SoDoodoo]

Do you drive around with your brakes on? 1000 miles for a set of pads? Or am I missing something. My Milwaukee m18 fuel 3/8 impact won't remove bracket bolts but will do the slide pins.

It was a customer's car. Another tech did this job 1k miles ago. The customer started hearing noise from the brakes while reversing. She took it to a Toyota dealership, and they told her that the pads were installed incorrectly.


Earlier today, i went to Home Depot and got it exchanged. Hopefully this one will work better.

 

[SuzukiGS750EZ]

Hope so! How do you install pads wrong? I've seen people install calipers on the wrong side lol

 

[SoDoodoo]

He didn't put the clips on the correct side of the pad, and the clips on the caliper were installed upside down lol

 

[Kracin]

As has already been said WRONG TOOL FOR THE JOB.

i'll again ask if anyone can give me the standard procedure for deciding what tool is right or wrong for removing a bolt? i can see someone saying "channellocks are not the right tool to remove a bolt in most situations" because that is a generally true statement, you really don't use a set of pump pliers to remove bolts unless you want gnarled heads, or unless the head is already gnarled.

but with these few people saying wrong tool. what decides it's a wrong tool? does that mean that there is no use at all for a 1/4" square drive impact on a car?

serious question though, just want to know why people say its wrong when its the same as an impact wrench but with a 1/4" hex, instead of 1/4" square.

 

[Kracin]

It was a customer's car. Another tech did this job 1k miles ago. The customer started hearing noise from the brakes while reversing. She took it to a Toyota dealership, and they told her that the pads were installed incorrectly.


Earlier today, i went to Home Depot and got it exchanged. Hopefully this one will work better.

hawaii, lol now your username makes sense. i was on oahu for 4 years, made quite a few friends while i was there and took the beauty in my avatar home with me.

i could see salt corrosion if that lady lived on the beach and frequently drove through flooded areas where salt water can flood back up. but not after 1k miles. i would agree that it's defective if the less powerful PC could remove it but yours could not.

any updates on the power now?

 

[Scimmia]

but with these few people saying wrong tool. what decides it's a wrong tool? does that mean that there is no use at all for a 1/4" square drive impact on a car?

serious question though, just want to know why people say its wrong when its the same as an impact wrench but with a 1/4" hex, instead of 1/4" square.

Underneath a car, not really. If it was reverse biased (as many impact wrenches are), that makes it much more useful in removing things, but there's no way an impact driver would be reverse biased as it's designed use is in the forward direction. Small bolts under the hood or in the dash board, sure, not not in a wheel well.