Something wrong with my M18 fuel?

[Kracin]

Underneath a car, not really. If it was reverse biased (as many impact wrenches are), that makes it much more useful in removing things, but there's no way an impact driver would be reverse biased as it's designed use is in the forward direction. Small bolts under the hood or in the dash board, sure, not not in a wheel well.

So it comes with adapters that allow you to use it with hex head screws/lag screws. So what?

Impact drivers are an indispensable construction tool. They are not a mechanic's tool.

you remember saying that right? why the change of heart?

also, how come a 1/4" square drive pneumatic rated at 25 ft/lbs is better suited for under a wheel well, but the hex driver with 133 ft/lbs isnt?

why would a 3/8ths electric impact rated at 180 be better than a hex driver with 3/8th attachment when working in a wheel well?


real questions here, just want to get a gauge on where you seem to think the torque from 6 sided adapter is different than the torque from a 4 sided adapter.



i'd like to add that i wonder where the idea that if it doesn't have a breakaway torque vs fastening torque listed, it means it isn't meant to be used under a car.

how come anything with 3/8th drive or lower pneumatic impact wrenches don't show what their two ratings are on snap-ons website? are we to assume that only 1/2" impacts are to be used under a car and the 3/8ths impact are meant for light duty like interior, m4-m8 nuts and bolts and thats it? what i gather from your complaint is that the aforementioned hex driver is not meant for nuts and bolts because it does not have a stronger reverse than a forward. can the same be said about these impact guns with only one rating?

 

[Scimmia]

you remember saying that right? why the change of heart?

also, how come a 1/4" square drive pneumatic rated at 25 ft/lbs is better suited for under a wheel well, but the hex driver with 133 ft/lbs isnt?

I'm starting to think that your reading comprehension is just horrible. You keep saying that I made claims that I never made. The posts you quoted don't even say what you say they do.

Bottom line is that this is a low power tool meant for screws on a construction site. If you want to use it to take off crank bolts, go for it, what do I care? All I'm saying is don't be surprised when it doesn't work.

 

[T45]

Bottom line is that this is a low power tool meant for screws on a construction site.

This is basically mis-placed. The m12/18 hex impacts will hit rated torque.

That means, a little m12 hex will take out 100NM, the Fuel 125NM etc. It has been demonstrated in the field, using real hardware. Those specs are not BS. They are using adapters and whatever.

That being said, a square drive in 3/8 or 1/2 will hit more. They are rated higher. But a square drive in 1/4? No, its computer limited to 1/2 of the hex driver of the m12 or about 1/3 of the rated torque of the m18.

It turns out the hex drive is actually stronger. Go figure. The 1/4 square will apparently break sooner than the hex. And they don't want to have people abusing them, so they are under-rated (limited).

The reasons people dont use hex drive more is that they wear out faster the hardware. You don't have 1/2 hex drive around anymore, but it used to be a thing.

The wrenches are certainly better tools for their intended purpose, but the idea that an impact driver rated at 100NM or higher is a "weak tool" I think is BS. Maybe some engineer can explain it better.

Now the breakloose torque of a ruster or red loctite or whatever is not the same as the fastening torque and that is a whole nother thing again.

 

[TOOL FANATIK]

"meant for driving screws"

while the impact kit comes with adapters for 3/8" and 1/2" square drive for sockets, as well as drill bits for drilling.....

i think somebody misinformed you about a few things, i use mine all the time at work for bolts, nuts, concrete anchors, etc.

Scimmia said "you have an impact driver meant for driving screws''....it is a fact, impact drivers are designed for the use of construction workers, to drive screws. The 1/4" 3/8" and 1/2" square drive adapters you speak of are for sockets....for screws on the construction site. Lag bolts to be specific as well as others....not for a mechanic. Go to any construction site anywhere in the world, and I promise you will find an arsenal of impact drivers. This is a fact! Go to any pro's garage, he would not be using an impact driver on anything under the hood, under the car. That's what a ratchet is for. If the ratchet doesn't have enough power, then that's where the impact WRENCH comes in. An impact driver was made for construction workers! The use of them in a garage only speaks to their versatility, but Scimmia stated a true fact. If you want to use an impact driver on a car, that's fine. I do it as well and it works ****** great! But; the fact still remains it is not the tool for the job. Pros are held to a higher standard. A real pro would not do what the OP did. Simple as that. Argue all you want. Can it be done absolutely. Should it be done? Sure why not! Is it professional? Hell no. Professional would be using the right tool for the job.

 

[GTA Matt]

What's your definition of a real pro?

 

[T45]

The hex drive / square drive really has nothing to do with it.

 

[kiatech]

Scimmia said "you have an impact driver meant for driving screws''....it is a fact, impact drivers are designed for the use of construction workers, to drive screws. The 1/4" 3/8" and 1/2" square drive adapters you speak of are for sockets....for screws on the construction site. Lag bolts to be specific as well as others....not for a mechanic. Go to any construction site anywhere in the world, and I promise you will find an arsenal of impact drivers. This is a fact! Go to any pro's garage, he would not be using an impact driver on anything under the hood, under the car. That's what a ratchet is for. If the ratchet doesn't have enough power, then that's where the impact WRENCH comes in. An impact driver was made for construction workers! The use of them in a garage only speaks to their versatility, but Scimmia stated a true fact. If you want to use an impact driver on a car, that's fine. I do it as well and it works ****** great! But; the fact still remains it is not the tool for the job. Pros are held to a higher standard. A real pro would not do what the OP did. Simple as that. Argue all you want. Can it be done absolutely. Should it be done? Sure why not! Is it professional? Hell no. Professional would be using the right tool for the job.

This guy....

 

[TOOL FANATIK]

This guy....

Yea tell me about it lol

 

[GSteg]

The hex drive / square drive really has nothing to do with it.

Yea, I don't know why people are getting so caught up on the drive. The impact mechanism is the same. Motor spins the hammer, then the hammer hits the anvil. Your limitation comes from how much torque the bit can handle, but as long as you're below the threshold, I don't see what the issue is.

 

[TOOL FANATIK]

What's your definition of a real pro?

Take pride in the work you do. Quick example: electrician A) after putting the outlet faceplates on, he ensures that each slotted screw has its slot aligned vertically...around the whole house. Electrician B) does not. The job came out the same in all other aspects....which electrician is the "real pro" ? I'll piss some guys off but our "professionals" need to act like professionals. If you're putting lug nuts on with An air gun, IMO, you are not working professionally...I think the word PROFESSIONAL gets used very loosely.

 

[GSteg]

To me, being professional is more about how you use your tools, not the tools themselves. I put lug nuts on my car with an impact gun, but I don't go crazy with it either. I run it just enough to get them snug, and then do the final torquing with the torque wrench. So I don't mind if someone uses an impact driver to remove caliper bolts as opposed to a square-drive impact, as long as nothing gets damaged in the process.

 

[dnschmidt]

That's a nice thought but I happen to live on planet Earth. If you're putting lug nuts on with an air gun you're probably getting paid to do it and if you're using a torque wrench it's likely you're doing that in your driveway on your time for free. I'm not taking sides here I'm simply stating the facts.

My definition of professional is somebody who is being paid to do something. It's up to Angie's List to figure out if they are any good at it. I offered a good friend of mine who's a professional mechanic at a Lexus dealership FOR FREE the best digital torque wrench with angle that's available in the world: an Eclatorq. This is also sold private labeled by Mac tool trucks. His response: who has time to use those Denny I work flat rate. Max is a damn good mechanic but time is money and he does things as fast as humanly possible. That's clearly not ideal but a man's got to eat.

 

[GTA Matt]

Take pride in the work you do. Quick example: electrician A) after putting the outlet faceplates on, he ensures that each slotted screw has its slot aligned vertically...around the whole house. Electrician B) does not. The job came out the same in all other aspects....which electrician is the "real pro" ? I'll piss some guys off but our "professionals" need to act like professionals. If you're putting lug nuts on with An air gun, IMO, you are not working professionally...I think the word PROFESSIONAL gets used very loosely.

But what does all this have to do with someone using an impact driver to drop skid plates or engine covers or oil pan bolts, etc.?

 

[TOOL FANATIK]

That's a nice thought but I happen I to live on planet Earth. If you're putting lug nuts on with an air gun you're probably getting paid to do it and if you're using a torque wrench it's likely you're doing that in your driveway on your time for free. I'm not taking sides here I'm simply stating the facts.

My definition of professional is somebody who is being paid to do something. It's up to Angie's List to figure out if they are any good at it. I offered a good friend of mine who's a professional mechanic at a Lexus dealership FOR FREE the best digital torque wrench with angle that's available in the world: an Eclatorq. This is also sold private labeled by Mac tool trucks. His response: who has time to use those Denny I work flat rate. Max is a damn good mechanic but time is money and he does things as fast as humanly possible. That's clearly not ideal but a man's got to eat.

If the shop you work for enforces this degree of professionalism, it helps the individual...but honestly you get a ticket worth 2.5 hours, you know you can bang it out in 2, that's a half hour in your pocket. It'll take you 15 minutes longer doing it the right way. It's not your care baby that ****. Don't leave your tool on the hood, Mar guards or not. Example: Midas in my area puts lugs on by hand. Pro style. Tire warehouse in my area use air guns. Not pro style. Torque wrench with angle is also overrated, as is a torque wrench. Say you go to torque your lugs. While you're walking over to you're toolbox I run over and weld your lugs down, then sneak away. Now you come back with your fancy torque wrench and get a "beeeeep" as soon as you touch it. Welp, it must be good to go. Torque wrenches only measure the resistance, not the actual bolt stretch. So a previously overtorqued stud or damaged/dirty threads will give will give you a bad reading, as the resistance has increased....anyway I get why your pal doesn't have time for a torque wrench, as they are overrated and a real good tech has a pretty accurate feel for the proper"resistance"... But at the same time, for all intensive purposes, he should be torquing things down to spec.

To me, being professional is more about how you use your tools, not the tools themselves. I put lug nuts on my car with an impact gun, but I don't go crazy with it either. I run it just enough to get them snug, and then do the final torquing with the torque wrench. So I don't mind if someone uses an impact driver to remove caliper bolts as opposed to a square-drive impact, as long as nothing gets damaged in the process.

 

[TOOL FANATIK]

But what does all this have to do with someone using an impact driver to drop skid plates or engine covers or oil pan bolts, etc.?

Let's rewind.. OP used a Milwaukee M18 fuel to attempt to remove caliper pin bolts. This is not the tool for the job....you see these guys on this forum and on the web, with 6,000$ toolboxes, and every tool known to man? You know the sheer volume of quality tools that cause you to salivate when looking at them? Well those guys are professionals. They bust their asses so they can afford to get the right tool for the job. They are unlike us mortals, they don't have to make do with something sub par. They have exactly the right tool for the job. They don't have to use something general purpose, their collection is specialized. There are a lot of guys out there with these collections. I want to work like those guys. So, to not stray from the original debate, I do not believe an m18 impact driver was the tool for the job, and I do believe a true pro would agree with me.

 

[PCMusicGuy]

Ignoring the 5 pages of banter, something is wrong with your impact driver. Go swap it out or call Milwaukee.

 

[GTA Matt]

Let's rewind.. OP used a Milwaukee M18 fuel to attempt to remove caliper pin bolts. This is not the tool for the job....you see these guys on this forum and on the web, with 6,000$ toolboxes, and every tool known to man? You know the sheer volume of quality tools that cause you to salivate when looking at them? Well those guys are professionals. They bust their asses so they can afford to get the right tool for the job. They are unlike us mortals, they don't have to make do with something sub par. They have exactly the right tool for the job. They don't have to use something general purpose, their collection is specialized. There are a lot of guys out there with these collections. I want to work like those guys. So, to not stray from the original debate, I do not believe an m18 impact driver was the tool for the job, and I do believe a true pro would agree with me.

I have a $30,000 toolbox with over $100,000 worth of tools in it. My favorite tool happens to be my m12 impact driver. I could literally buy any tool I want, I chose that one and choose to use it whenever possible. Obviously when it isn't powerful enough to take out a stubborn bolt, it isn't the right tool for that job. But someone using it for something within its intended limit does not make them any less professional.

 

[GSteg]

Say you go to torque your lugs. While you're walking over to you're toolbox I run over and weld your lugs down, then sneak away. Now you come back with your fancy torque wrench and get a "beeeeep" as soon as you touch it. Welp, it must be good to go. Torque wrenches only measure the resistance, not the actual bolt stretch. So a previously overtorqued stud or damaged/dirty threads will give will give you a bad reading, as the resistance has increased....anyway I get why your pal doesn't have time for a torque wrench, as they are overrated and a real good tech has a pretty accurate feel for the proper"resistance"... But at the same time, for all intensive purposes, he should be torquing things down to spec.

There is a lot of contradiction with this one.

 

[TOOL FANATIK]

There is a lot of contradiction with this one.

Clarify plz

 

[GSteg]

That's a nice thought but I happen I to live on planet Earth. If you're putting lug nuts on with an air gun you're probably getting paid to do it and if you're using a torque wrench it's likely you're doing that in your driveway on your time for free. I'm not taking sides here I'm simply stating the facts.

I'm starting to see a lot more tire shop around here using torque wrenches. 10 years ago, the closest America Tire's all used their air impact for tightening lugs. I've been to 3 different America Tire's recently and they've all used torque wrench for the final tightening. Consider me surprised!

 

[chrisexv6]

There have only been a handful of times where my family or I have taken our vehicles to a "chain" store for tires.

The last straw, so to speak, was when I took my dads Crown Vic to our local Town Fair Tire. I heard and saw the tail end of them "installing" the lugs with an impact wrench. Didnt like it, but didnt think anything of it.

Until we had to change the brakes. And it turned out they cross threaded the wheel lug because the lug nut wasnt quite on straight when they hit it with the impact wrench. 2 hours of searching for the correct replacement lug stud + 2 hours of fighting the cross threaded one = last time we ever went to a chain. Luckily found a local shop that does the job right (torque wrench, or at least not an impact wrench!), have been going there ever since with tires in tow.

 

[kelpaso1]

That's a nice thought but I happen I to live on planet Earth. If you're putting lug nuts on with an air gun you're probably getting paid to do it and if you're using a torque wrench it's likely you're doing that in your driveway on your time for free. I'm not taking sides here I'm simply stating the facts.

My definition of professional is somebody who is being paid to do something. It's up to Angie's List to figure out if they are any good at it. I offered a good friend of mine who's a professional mechanic at a Lexus dealership FOR FREE the best digital torque wrench with angle that's available in the world: an Eclatorq. This is also sold private labeled by Mac tool trucks. His response: who has time to use those Denny I work flat rate. Max is a damn good mechanic but time is money and he does things as fast as humanly possible. That's clearly not ideal but a man's got to eat.

Jeez, another shop I'll be sure to avoid. If a tech in a shop is not using a torque wrench then he is NOT a professional.

I torque EVERY lug nut. What's it take, and extra minute???

 

[GSteg]

Say you go to torque your lugs. While you're walking over to you're toolbox I run over and weld your lugs down, then sneak away. Now you come back with your fancy torque wrench and get a "beeeeep" as soon as you touch it. Welp, it must be good to go.

Well first of all, I would never stop in the middle of torquing lug nuts to go elsewhere. I would finish prior to leaving.

Second of all, if someone assumes the torque is good just as they pull on the handle, then that person is an idiot and needs to have that wrench bashed on their head. If it 'beep', 'clicks' or whatever, it doesn't mean it's good. It means the torque is the same, if not higher than what you set the wrench at.

In this case, it means the nut/bolt is over-torqued. You don't just leave it there. Back it out and torque it again properly. I run down the bolts with my impact gun, but just enough that I can still turn it with the torque wrench until I reach the torque I need. If your wrench beep/clicks and the bolt hasn't turned, then that should raise a red flag.

Torque wrenches only measure the resistance, not the actual bolt stretch. So a previously overtorqued stud or damaged/dirty threads will give will give you a bad reading, as the resistance has increased....anyway I get why your pal doesn't have time for a torque wrench, as they are overrated and a real good tech has a pretty accurate feel for the proper"resistance"...

So a torque wrench isn't good because it only measure resistance, yet you can rely on a 'real good tech' because he has a 'feel' for resistance. The tech can't measure bolt stretch by hand either, so what is it? If a stud has damaged or dirty threads, what makes you think the tech can judge when it's tight enough? Can he do this for all torque range on different cars too? A human can never replicate the consistency of a good torque wrench. I should write a letter to GM and Ford to get rid of their fancy electronic torque wrenches. Instead, hire some 'real good techs' to assembly engine components by feel. The hell with tolerance!

But at the same time, for all intensive purposes, he should be torquing things down to spec.

So are you saying to use a torque wrench or not?

 

[Kracin]

I'm starting to think that your reading comprehension is just horrible. You keep saying that I made claims that I never made. The posts you quoted don't even say what you say they do.

Bottom line is that this is a low power tool meant for screws on a construction site. If you want to use it to take off crank bolts, go for it, what do I care? All I'm saying is don't be surprised when it doesn't work.

i mentioned the 1/4" drive vs the hex because you said the hex specifically had no place in a wheel well, regardless of what tool is on the end of it. a hex driver is similar to the versatility of a screwdriver with bit changing, you can throw almost anything in the end of it. you don't need a ratchet and a 7/16 socket to remove nuts from a panel if you have a 7/16 nut driver, both accomplish the task the same. just the same as you don't need a 7/16 socket on 3/8th impact wrench, it does the same job as a 3/8th socket adapter with 7/16 socket on an impact driver.

Scimmia said "you have an impact driver meant for driving screws''....it is a fact, impact drivers are designed for the use of construction workers, to drive screws. The 1/4" 3/8" and 1/2" square drive adapters you speak of are for sockets....for screws on the construction site. Lag bolts to be specific as well as others....not for a mechanic. Go to any construction site anywhere in the world, and I promise you will find an arsenal of impact drivers. This is a fact! Go to any pro's garage, he would not be using an impact driver on anything under the hood, under the car. That's what a ratchet is for. If the ratchet doesn't have enough power, then that's where the impact WRENCH comes in. An impact driver was made for construction workers! The use of them in a garage only speaks to their versatility, but Scimmia stated a true fact. If you want to use an impact driver on a car, that's fine. I do it as well and it works ****** great! But; the fact still remains it is not the tool for the job. Pros are held to a higher standard. A real pro would not do what the OP did. Simple as that. Argue all you want. Can it be done absolutely. Should it be done? Sure why not! Is it professional? Hell no. Professional would be using the right tool for the job.

Take pride in the work you do. Quick example: electrician A) after putting the outlet faceplates on, he ensures that each slotted screw has its slot aligned vertically...around the whole house. Electrician B) does not. The job came out the same in all other aspects....which electrician is the "real pro" ? I'll piss some guys off but our "professionals" need to act like professionals. If you're putting lug nuts on with An air gun, IMO, you are not working professionally...I think the word PROFESSIONAL gets used very loosely.

i think your definition is pro is somewhat correct, taking the time to do things to a T and not cutting corners. in that sense a pro is definitely someone who doesn't leave loose ends in their work, and that has nothing to do with using a tool that gets the job done the same.... use a pair of 5" dykes, or 7" dykes, both will cut wire the same.

but i don't think you understand the uses of those impact drivers, because in fact a company that makes tools for professionals (snap-on) markets their impact driver as being perfect for under the hood, where you said it doesn't belong. long before cars were ever invented, where do you think all of the tools you love were used? does this mean that because the wrench wasn't originally used on cars, that it has no place for being used on them?

If the shop you work for enforces this degree of professionalism, it helps the individual...but honestly you get a ticket worth 2.5 hours, you know you can bang it out in 2, that's a half hour in your pocket. It'll take you 15 minutes longer doing it the right way. It's not your care baby that ****. Don't leave your tool on the hood, Mar guards or not. Example: Midas in my area puts lugs on by hand. Pro style. Tire warehouse in my area use air guns. Not pro style. Torque wrench with angle is also overrated, as is a torque wrench. Say you go to torque your lugs. While you're walking over to you're toolbox I run over and weld your lugs down, then sneak away. Now you come back with your fancy torque wrench and get a "beeeeep" as soon as you touch it. Welp, it must be good to go. Torque wrenches only measure the resistance, not the actual bolt stretch. So a previously overtorqued stud or damaged/dirty threads will give will give you a bad reading, as the resistance has increased....anyway I get why your pal doesn't have time for a torque wrench, as they are overrated and a real good tech has a pretty accurate feel for the proper"resistance"... But at the same time, for all intensive purposes, he should be torquing things down to spec.

bad analogy, you are comparing things that are going to cause damage vs something that is just a different tool. lets not get into how wrong you are about torque wrenches and having a "feel" for it instead... and how much that contradicts your whole professional speech earlier

Let's rewind.. OP used a Milwaukee M18 fuel to attempt to remove caliper pin bolts. This is not the tool for the job....you see these guys on this forum and on the web, with 6,000$ toolboxes, and every tool known to man? You know the sheer volume of quality tools that cause you to salivate when looking at them? Well those guys are professionals. They bust their asses so they can afford to get the right tool for the job. They are unlike us mortals, they don't have to make do with something sub par. They have exactly the right tool for the job. They don't have to use something general purpose, their collection is specialized. There are a lot of guys out there with these collections. I want to work like those guys. So, to not stray from the original debate, I do not believe an m18 impact driver was the tool for the job, and I do believe a true pro would agree with me.

you never answered how you come to the conclusion before ever using a tool that it isn't the right tool for the job, saying that you shouldn't use it because it was meant for construction first is the same as saying you shouldn't use wrenches because they were used in factories, plumbing, and other non automotive areas first

 

[dnschmidt]

PCMusicGuy, +1

It's a Milwaukee tool with a five year warrantee which Milwaukee will stand behind 100%. Take it back and get a new one or stop by your local Milwaukee authorized service center and they will make it right. If neither of those works for you call 1-800-SAWDUST and Milwaukee will make it right. Don Henley once wrote a song called "Get over it". I think it's time we played that song on this topic.

 

[TOOL FANATIK]

Well first of all, I would never stop in the middle of torquing lug nuts to go elsewhere. I would finish prior to leaving.

Second of all, if someone assumes the torque is good just as they pull on the handle, then that person is an idiot and needs to have that wrench bashed on their head. If it 'beep', 'clicks' or whatever, it doesn't mean it's good. It means the torque is the same, if not higher than what you set the wrench at.

In this case, it means the nut/bolt is over-torqued. You don't just leave it there. Back it out and torque it again properly. I run down the bolts with my impact gun, but just enough that I can still turn it with the torque wrench until I reach the torque I need. If your wrench beep/clicks and the bolt hasn't turned, then that should raise a red flag.




So a torque wrench isn't good because it only measure resistance, yet you can rely on a 'real good tech' because he has a 'feel' for resistance. The tech can't measure bolt stretch by hand either, so what is it? If a stud has damaged or dirty threads, what makes you think the tech can judge when it's tight enough? Can he do this for all torque range on different cars too? A human can never replicate the consistency of a good torque wrench. I should write a letter to GM and Ford to get rid of their fancy electronic torque wrenches. Instead, hire some 'real good techs' to assembly engine components by feel. The hell with tolerance!



So are you saying to use a torque wrench or not?

I exagerrated that scenario for clarity. if your threads are damaged and you put your lugs on with an impact, you wouldnt sense resistance through the gun.
long story short, torque wrenches CAN BE AND MANY TIMES ARE, extremely unreliable. most of us have never heard such foolery talk about torque wrenches, but its true. other industries have caught on and know the pitfalls of the torque wrench, and so they trust their equipment with an ultrasonic bolt tension monitor. this measures the actual bolt stretch, not just the resistance, which in my first scenario, shows how misleading a resistance measurement can be... my main point is torque wrenches are not what theyre cracked up to be.
you also said that if the wrench beeps right away, then that means it's overtorqued, and what you do is back it out and re-torque it to it's proper spec....ok....so an overtorqued bolt/stud regains it's memory??? no, once it is past its stretch capacity it remains stretched and loses all integrity and you jeopordize, sooner or later, having that stud/bolt shear off!!!but you should know this..... once a bolt is overtorqued, it should be replaced...its what a professional would do. only an idiot would back it out to retorque it and feel warm and fuzzy afterword....and also, if you are putting these lugs on with a gun at first? if the studs are cross threaded, youd never know until you put youre torque wrench on it...goood luck repairing those threads...
anyway, FOR ALL INTENSIVE PURPOSES, as i said before, you should still be torquing everything. note how i said "for all intensive purposes."

 

[mmack66]

What are intensive purposes?

 

[TOOL FANATIK]

i mentioned the 1/4" drive vs the hex because you said the hex specifically had no place in a wheel well, regardless of what tool is on the end of it. a hex driver is similar to the versatility of a screwdriver with bit changing, you can throw almost anything in the end of it. you don't need a ratchet and a 7/16 socket to remove nuts from a panel if you have a 7/16 nut driver, both accomplish the task the same. just the same as you don't need a 7/16 socket on 3/8th impact wrench, it does the same job as a 3/8th socket adapter with 7/16 socket on an impact driver.





i think your definition is pro is somewhat correct, taking the time to do things to a T and not cutting corners. in that sense a pro is definitely someone who doesn't leave loose ends in their work, and that has nothing to do with using a tool that gets the job done the same.... use a pair of 5" dykes, or 7" dykes, both will cut wire the same.

but i don't think you understand the uses of those impact drivers, because in fact a company that makes tools for professionals (snap-on) markets their impact driver as being perfect for under the hood, where you said it doesn't belong. long before cars were ever invented, where do you think all of the tools you love were used? does this mean that because the wrench wasn't originally used on cars, that it has no place for being used on them?



bad analogy, you are comparing things that are going to cause damage vs something that is just a different tool. lets not get into how wrong you are about torque wrenches and having a "feel" for it instead... and how much that contradicts your whole professional speech earlier




you never answered how you come to the conclusion before ever using a tool that it isn't the right tool for the job, saying that you shouldn't use it because it was meant for construction first is the same as saying you shouldn't use wrenches because they were used in factories, plumbing, and other non automotive areas first

this i am going to make very simple. you do not use an impact driver on suspension/brake jobs. the right tool for the job would be wrench/ratchet/ for hand tools or impact wrench.
the subject matter was impact driver on a brake job. the right tool or not... no it is not the right tool. debate over. you have yourself a merry christmas.

 

[Kracin]

this i am going to make very simple. you do not use an impact driver on suspension/brake jobs. the right tool for the job would be wrench/ratchet/ for hand tools or impact wrench.
the subject matter was impact driver on a brake job. the right tool or not... no it is not the right tool. debate over. you have yourself a merry christmas.

if its completely frozen and rusted does that mean that you used the wrong tool for the job because the impact wrench wouldn't budge it? and the right tool is now a torch, because the rusted bolts won't budge with an impact wrench? therefore you just knowingly used the wrong tool for the job?


the reason you won't give a clear definition is because any definition you give for it without trying to just give a "use this or this for it" answer, is going to include that little driver in it.

saying debate over is what people do when they have nothing left or simply can't find an answer. i'm looking for a clear cut answer as to what is and is not the right tool for the job. if you can't provide one, then why tell the OP that he wasn't using the right tool for the job regardless of whether it could remove the bolt or not. the correct response would have been "grab a bigger impact or a breaker bar" instead of trying to bash the OP in his decision to use a more than capable tool which happens to be defective.

 

[Kracin]

What are intensive purposes?

they're purposes people use when they don't know what intents and purposes are... lol

 

[TOOL FANATIK]

My Impact driver that I do use on cars lol
No, Seriously tho. Lol

 

[TOOL FANATIK]

their purposes people use when they don't know what intents and purposes are... lol

Regular people say intensive purposes, its 2014. but thanks grammar police

 

[Kracin]

Regular people say intensive purposes, its 2014. but thanks grammar police

.... regular people misuse idioms? news to me.

 

[Scimmia]

i mentioned the 1/4" drive vs the hex because you said the hex specifically had no place in a wheel well, regardless of what tool is on the end of it. a hex driver is similar to the versatility of a screwdriver with bit changing, you can throw almost anything in the end of it. you don't need a ratchet and a 7/16 socket to remove nuts from a panel if you have a 7/16 nut driver, both accomplish the task the same. just the same as you don't need a 7/16 socket on 3/8th impact wrench, it does the same job as a 3/8th socket adapter with 7/16 socket on an impact driver.

And once again, you're making things up. I never once said that, you asked if a 1/4" drive is useless as well and I said that yes, it is useless under the car.

Are you suggesting using nut drivers to remove bolts in the wheel well now?

 

[Scimmia]

Regular people say intensive purposes, its 2014. but thanks grammar police

I'm not going to defend you on that one. "Regular" people don't say that, they just slur it so that it sounds that way.

 

[TOOL FANATIK]

I'm not going to defend you on that one. "Regular" people don't say that, they just slur it so that it sounds that way.

Dam you then scimmia! Lol. No Google it it's said that way as well.

 

[TOOL FANATIK]

Dam you then scimmia! Lol. No Google it it's said that way as well.

Ok I googled it...at least there's thousands others out there that screw that up too. My shop teacher in hs used that phrase like it was going out of style, and he definitely said intensive purposes lol. I still see him around I'll have to tell him.

 

[Rogue1987]

The real question is... What is quality?

Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk

 

[GSteg]

only an idiot would back it out to retorque it and feel warm and fuzzy afterword....and also, if you are putting these lugs on with a gun at first?

Wow you must feel great insulting me that way. Over-torquing does not necessarily mean the bolt has yielded. If the spec is 80 ft-lbs, and someone torqued their lug nuts (say 5/8"-18) to 90 ft-lbs, are you telling them to toss all their studs? Per spec, it's overtorqued, but it hasn't yield. Second of all, you're assuming too much about me. I put the bolts on by fingers first to get a couple threads on, THEN use the impact to SPIN them on. For god sake you make it seem like I hammer the **** out of the bolt. Do you take everything literally?

No one said a torque wrench is the end of all tool. Most just recognize it as a tool for a job, but I think you're getting carried away with it and exaggerating too much.

 

[TOOL FANATIK]

I'm sorry for the insult that was uncalled for...as far as exaggerating you would be surprised. Tons of failures happen every day my friend, mostly due to malpractice/poor workmanship.