Source for odd size steel tube

[mrpizza]

I need two- 2 foot pieces (18" would work too) of rectangle steel tubing that are 1 3/4" x 2 3/4" to fit inside some 2x3 rectangle tube. Striking out online! It can be 1/8 wall, 3/16, or 1/4 not critical at all.

Is this even a thing, or will I need to cut and weld some tubing down?

 

[The Cobbler]

can you use 1-1/2"X2-1/2" and weld some shim on them ?

 

[mrpizza]

can you use 1-1/2"X2-1/2" and weld some shim on them ?

Yeah I could. I don't know why that thought didn't cross my mind....

 

[Jim greengo]

Try a local welding shop,check their cut off pile.

 

[ez-duzit]

McMaster-Carr for short lengths of common enough sizes.

 

[LXCam]

McMaster-Carr for short lengths of common enough sizes.

If you go there check out telescopic tubing.

 

[f150skidoo]

Another Idea, You could get some sheet metals formed into C channels and weld the two half's together.

 

[Spareparts]

If you find what you want don't get 1/4" wall thickness, it wont clear the weld seam with out
grinding it down.

 

[mike93lx]

This place does telescoping tubing, but steel is only square. Their rectangular is AL

Telescopic Tubing - Alcobra Metals

With a variety of shapes and sizes, telescopic tubing can help you make your product complete. Take a look at the many different solutions we offer.

alcobrametals.com

 

[Joemctag]

If you find what you want don't get 1/4" wall thickness, it wont clear the weld seam with out
grinding it down.

Can grind a groove in the inner piece to clear the inner seam of the outer tube.
The seams can be in different places; not necessarily centered.

 

[mrpizza]

Ill just do the shims welded on. This is to make a couple receivers to hold a vice, etc under my bench using some materials I already have.

 

[Spareparts]

When I did mine I used 3" X 3" 3/16" wall sq tube and the insert was 2 1/2" square. what ever thickness you want, I also drilled a 1/2"
hole in the side of the 3" tube, and welded a 1/2-13 nut on the outside of the tube, this was for a bolt to secure the inner tube to
keep any movement from the vice. I have done this in several places, 2 on the work bench and even on my service truck for several
years and never had a problem.

 

[Monza Harry]

You could remove the "flash" [raised weld seam"] from inside your outer tube. There was a link here on GJ to a U-tube video of a "DIY" tooling looks pretty easy depending on your length of tube. I keep that plan in mind for future builds that require tubing not available in "flash removed". Harry

Google Search

 

[VR6ix]

No way that's a common size of HSS tube, adding shims to smaller material sounds like the best solution for what you're doing, or cut-and-form a C- shape 1 3/4 x 2 3/4 x 1 3/4 and weld a 2 3/4 cap on it.

 

[Bigblue&Goldie]

For your application I'd go buy some receiver tubing for best fit, but even then it will be a little loose. I think my local supplier sells it for like $40 each. I'd then drill a hole on one of the sides and weld nut over it to be able to run a bolt for tension.

Standard tubing (even DOM and 4130 with better dimensional specs) isn't made to tolarances that reliably allow for telescoping. Sometimes they work together, sometimes they don't. The other issue is tubing is never straight, so the longer the slip fit interface, the more likely they are to bind. Add a seam into the mix and it's a real pain in the ***.

These are some clamp on brackets I made to hold a bike rack to a trailer bumper. Same cocnept as I described above. The pieces can be had for under $20 on Amazon.

 

[i4ni]

For your application I'd go buy some receiver tubing for best fit, but even then it will be a little loose. I think my local supplier sells it for like $40 each. I'd then drill a hole on one of the sides and weld nut over it to be able to run a bolt for tension.

Standard tubing (even DOM and 4130 with better dimensional specs) isn't made to tolarances that reliably allow for telescoping. Sometimes they work together, sometimes they don't. The other issue is tubing is never straight, so the longer the slip fit interface, the more likely they are to bind. Add a seam into the mix and it's a real pain in the ***.

These are some clamp on brackets I made to hold a bike rack to a trailer bumper. Same cocnept as I described above. The pieces can be had for under $20 on Amazon.

Ordered a new Hitch and reciever for my wifes Forrester and there was enough slack that it was driving me crazy with the constant slapping up and down so I drilled a hole and welded a nut on like above. Having the ability to tighten down the bolt saved what little sanity I have left lol. I just keep a wrench in with the receiver, a bit of a hassle but worth it. I staked the first few threads on the bolt to keep it from falling out.

 

[danielbuck]

for the receiver tube on my vise table, I drilled a hole on the bottom and a hole on the side, welded in some thick 1/2" nuts, and use bolts in them like set screws. works really well. Just one might do, but I did both. Also welded on a "T" handle to the bolts, so that I don't need a wrench to tighten them, can do it by hand.

 

[mike93lx]

Ordered a new Hitch and reciever for my wifes Forrester and there was enough slack that it was driving me crazy with the constant slapping up and down so I drilled a hole and welded a nut on like above. Having the ability to tighten down the bolt saved what little sanity I have left lol. I just keep a wrench in with the receiver, a bit of a hassle but worth it. I staked the first few threads on the bolt to keep it from falling out.

I use one of these to tighten up the ball mount. Works awesome

 

[i4ni]

I use one of these to tighten up the ball mount. Works awesome

Thought about one of those but I went with the nut and bolt. It wasn't bad, took mabe an hour. I will say in the future I'll do the mod on any new hitch I get before installing just because.

 

[LopezBart]

Our old Yakima bike rack has a threaded rod that runs up the center of the part (stinger) that fits in the receiver. The end of the stinger is cut off at a skew angle, and the threaded rod threads into the cut-off piece. When the rod is tightened via a crank, the end of the stinger moves and binds in the receiver, and this eliminates any slop and the resulting noise. This rack hinges down holds up to four bikes. The angle is steep enough that it's completely self-releasing, but still binds effectively.

 

[i4ni]

Our old Yakima bike rack has a threaded rod that runs up the center of the part (stinger) that fits in the receiver. The end of the stinger is cut off at a skew angle, and the threaded rod threads into the cut-off piece. When the rod is tightened via a crank, the end of the stinger moves and binds in the receiver, and this eliminates any slop and the resulting noise. This rack hinges down holds up to four bikes. The angle is steep enough that it's completely self-releasing, but still binds effectively.

I seen something similar. It works well

 

[Monza Harry]

For my Never, Never welding table [seems it will never, ever be together], I notched and then welded [3rd pic if you look close shows the muriatic acid line on the coating] on some coupling nuts to the receivers for said welding table. However I placed them at 45° to tighten both in x (or y) and z. Here is a few pics:
Harry I don't seem to have a welded pic Sorry [your eyes will thank you (or me?)]