Splicing different gage wire?

[Jim Johnstone]

Ok so without going into crazy detail, I need to splice #10 wire to #2 wire in a junction box. What is the best way to accomplish this?

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[1969]

Split bolt connector, tape........

 

[theoldwizard1]

Split bolt connector, tape........

Old School works !

Use 3M friction tape or splicing tape. 2 layers.

 

[brewchief]

I see some polaris connectors rated from 1/0 to 14 gauge if you prefer those over a split bolt.

 

[pattenp]

For what purpose are you splicing #10 to #2?

 

[1969]

For what purpose are you splicing #10 to #2?

That was the first thoughts that went through my mind.

 

[SilverSS1969]

That was the first thoughts that went through my mind.

Mine as well. You want to be sure you aren't going to overload the the smaller wire.

 

[Jim Johnstone]

For what purpose are you splicing #10 to #2?

Well it's a bit convoluted, but here goes. Our current house had #2 wire ran underground between my basement and garage. It entered the basement and just ran open air to a fused disconnect and then to my panel. We sold the house and the buyers requested an electrical inspection. I was told I can't have that ran open air in the basement and I need to correct it. So my plan is to cut it off just inside the basement, pull it back outside, feed it into a weather tight plastic junction box attached to the foundation, then remove the fused disconnect inside the house, and run a length of 10/3 grounded Romex from the panel to the outdoor box, then connect the 10 and 2 together in the box. That should make the inspector happy and if the new buyers want more than 30 amps, they can replace the run from the panel to the outdoor box with bigger wire.

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[Jim Johnstone]

Mine as well. You want to be sure you aren't going to overload the the smaller wire.

The 10 feeds the 2 on a 30 amp circuit.

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[pattenp]

I'm not going to ask any more questions.

 

[Jim Johnstone]

I'm not going to ask any more questions.

Do you see any major issues with my plan?

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[theoldwizard1]

So my plan is to cut it off just inside the basement, pull it back outside, ...

Why pull it back ? Feed the #2 directly into the back of a junction box mounted to the basement wall.

 

[Jim Johnstone]

Why pull it back ? Feed the #2 directly into the back of a junction box mounted to the basement wall.

The only reason I was going to pull it back was to continue the conduit from underground. It comes up in conduit then the previous owner just slid a sleeve over it and fed it through the concrete.

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[pattenp]

Do you see any major issues with my plan?

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OK, one more question. Is the #2 copper or aluminum?

 

[Jim Johnstone]

OK, one more question. Is the #2 copper or aluminum?

Aluminum

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[wyliesdiesels]

Conduit would be cheaper than 10/3 NM-b

How long of a run are we talkin?

 

[Jim Johnstone]

Conduit would be cheaper than 10/3 NM-b

How long of a run are we talkin?

20 or 25 feet, and the #2 doesn't run all the way to the panel, just to a disconnect.

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[ard]

Canadian code too..... just in case that's notable.

 

[pattenp]

Aluminum

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Do not use split bolts. Use splice/reducer rated for AL/Cu. Do not connect aluminum and copper directly together.

 

[Jim Johnstone]

Do not use split bolts. Use splice/reducer rated for AL/Cu. Do not connect aluminum and copper directly together.

Thank you.

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[1969]

I believe you can purchase split bolts that are rated for both copper and aluminum.

 

[dw1]

Do not use split bolts. Use splice/reducer rated for AL/Cu. Do not connect aluminum and copper directly together.

This would be the easiest and comply but not the cheapest!!!
http://polarisconnectors.com/pdfs/NSi/ISR_series.pdf
They are dual rated alum/copper

http://www.polarisconnectors.com/pdfs/nsi/it_series.pdf

 

[pattenp]

I believe you can purchase split bolts that are rated for both copper and aluminum.

Those can be used for either cu to cu or al to al, but not cu to al. Splice/reducers keep the wires from touching each other.

Edit: I forgot the Al/Cu split bolt has a spacer.

 

[wyliesdiesels]

20 or 25 feet, and the #2 doesn't run all the way to the panel, just to a disconnect.

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Is the disconnect fused?

And pricing it out 3 sticks of 1 1/4" sch 40 some glue and maybe an LB will cost u about $30 wheres 10/3 NM-b is gonna run you $45-$50 plus staples PLUS the appropriate connector to splice cu to al (addl $20+ ??) and thats IF its not subject to damage.

So you will be spending more money on the hack job you propose vs. doing it right.

Why do u want to go the NM-b route again?

 

[Jim Johnstone]

Is the disconnect fused?

And pricing it out 3 sticks of 1 1/4" sch 40 some glue and maybe an LB will cost u about $30 wheres 10/3 NM-b is gonna run you $45-$50 plus staples PLUS the appropriate connector to splice cu to al (addl $20+ ??) and thats IF its not subject to damage.

So you will be spending more money on the hack job you propose vs. doing it right.

Why do u want to go the NM-b route again?

Trying to figure out the easiest way to get this passed inspection and be done with this **** show.

This is what I have now feeding my garage.


The big stuff is run unprotected inside the house, and that old disconnect is in rough shape. It's only being fed with #10 wire as it stands. The inspector needs all that cable in a conduit which I figure is going to be a nightmare since it runs behind a book case and out the wall.

In my mind it just seems easier to cut it back and put it in a box and then run some wire that doesn't have to be in conduit.

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[Dirtydan69]

Throw $$ at them and walk away.

 

[wyliesdiesels]

so the old cloth wrapped #10 on the left side of the top of the disconnect comes from your main panel?

And its breakered @ 30a?

 

[Jim Johnstone]

so the old cloth wrapped #10 on the left side of the top of the disconnect comes from your main panel?

And its breakered @ 30a?

Yes and yes, I intend to replace it with new 10/3 Romex instead.

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[pattenp]

If you can get it, #8/3 aluminum SER will be a little cheaper than #10/3 NM.

 

[wyliesdiesels]

Yes and yes, I intend to replace it with new 10/3 Romex instead.

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ok well that changes everything.

This is why it helps to provide pics and detail up front in the OP.

And i would replace with aluminum wire to make things easier.

 

[ard]

Ok so without going into crazy detail,

When I read this the other day, I just chuckled.... Thought, "oh sure..this IS garage journal...you WILL be going into detal. It's futile to resist"

 

[Norcal]

Do not use split bolts. Use splice/reducer rated for AL/Cu. Do not connect aluminum and copper directly together.

AL/CU listed split bolts are available, I prefer Polaris type connectors myself.

 

[Jim Johnstone]

AL/CU listed split bolts are available, I prefer Polaris type connectors myself.

I like the look of the polaris connectors. I think I'll go that route.

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[wyliesdiesels]

I like the look of the polaris connectors. I think I'll go that route.

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why not avoid the cu/al issue all together and just go with AL wire?

 

[Dr Stan]

Or just pull new wire to the garage.

 

[pattenp]

AL/CU listed split bolts are available, I prefer Polaris type connectors myself.

Yeah.. I realize that Al/Cu split bolts are available. I had a brain freeze moment. Polaris are nice, I just can't bring myself to pay what they cost.

 

[Jim Johnstone]

Or just pull new wire to the garage.

Absolutely zero chance of that happening.

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[Jim Johnstone]

why not avoid the cu/al issue all together and just go with AL wire?

Yeah I likely will, I'll look into the al wire.

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[pattenp]

Yeah I likely will, I'll look into the al wire.

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If you get aluminum SER the install methods are the same as NM. With aluminum be sure to use Noalox on the wire ends at the connections/terminations.

 

[Jim Johnstone]

If you get aluminum SER the install methods are the same as NM. With aluminum be sure to use Noalox on the connections/terminations.

Thank you

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