Agree. Unfortunately no lathe yetA piece of bar stock, 2 bearings, and a piece of pipe. It would be easy to make with a lathe.
Thank you 510!![]()
15-3/4'' Winch Cable Roller with Pillow Block Bearings | Fayette Trailers LLC
www.fayettedistribution.com
![]()
You are welcome.Thank you 510!
You're better at finding stuff on the internet than I am
I'm a little shocked at the price, however, and may be taking slow84's advice and fabbing it myself
How to fab part at tip of arrow?You are welcome.
Once you have the pillow blocks/bearings and collars (all McMaster Carr stuff) the rest is likely just cut and assemble. Your local steel supplier may have all the components on hand.
I have yet to comprehend why anybody would buy a split deck tilt.
I will only buy a tilt, but never a split deck.
I have seen people get in trouble with them .before.
That and a beaver tail on the end of a tilt. What is That supposed to accomplish? It makes the start steeper and loses flatbed length - no gain other than manufacturing expense.
The power assists really aren't that terrible expensive. Check out hullporter trailers in Iowa.I'll agree with you on the beavertail, never seen a tilt bed with one, but split decks can have advantages.
Since the axle must be positioned behind the center of gravity of the deck (to allow gravity-tilt), a standard tilt will usually have the axle(s) placed further forward. I've found this can make it a bit more difficult to get the proper tongue weight.
Split decks, at least the ones I've seen, generally have the axles placed further to the rear of the trailer, since they don't have to balance the weight of the entire deck, only the tilt portion.
Example - My old flatbed car hauler had a standard tilt deck, and I had to place the car REALLY far forward to get the right balance. It really defeated the purpose of having a longer deck. Having the axles 6-12in further to the rear of the trailer would have been better. But if they were, it wouldn't tilt without power assist ($$$). A split deck would have helped me here. Yes, it would have made the approach angle steeper, but I needed additional assist ramps anyways since the car sits so low.
That's basically a thick washer with OD = ID of tube and ID = shaft size.How to fab part at tip of arrow?
I have yet to comprehend why anybody would buy a split deck tilt.
I will only buy a tilt, but never a split deck.
I have seen people get in trouble with them .before.
That and a beaver tail on the end of a tilt. What is That supposed to accomplish? It makes the start steeper and loses flatbed length - no gain other than manufacturing expense.
Thank you turboCheck out Surplus Center.com
Good idea kbscheck CL for a free treadmill
the belt runs over what you want when it changes direction
Thanks SundayThat's basically a thick washer with OD = ID of tube and ID = shaft size.
Buy some 3/16 plate or bar stock and cut to closest size with hole saw.
Grind to fit and weld it up.
It wont have to be perfect, so you could even free hand it with a plasma or saw or grinder.
