Square link chain

[theoldwizard1]

Any one ever heard of and know a source for square link chain ?

The links are made out of square stock instead of round stock. The edges of the links supposedly bite into round pipe when you wrap it around a pipe and won't slip when you are pulling at a near horizontal (to the pipe) angle.

Hundreds of years ago, anchor chain was made like this.

 

[Provincial]

I have seen this type of chain. Much of it was very old. I don't know anywhere to source it today.

 

[rlitman]

That size? Not that I know of.
But bicycle lock chain is often made from square links.
Just one example:
http://www.harborfreight.com/heavy-duty-padlock-chain-66067.html

 

[Addrock]

http://www.mcmaster.com/#link-chain/=me0pr6

 

[rlitman]

Grade 120. Interesting. Never heard of that.

But the picture is of the "Great Chain" at West Point. That was never anchor chain.

 

[theoldwizard1]

That size? Not that I know of.
But bicycle lock chain is often made from square links.
Just one example:
http://www.harborfreight.com/heavy-duty-padlock-chain-66067.html

No, not the size in my picture !!!

Thanks for the link.

 

[theoldwizard1]

Something more like this.

 

[cryan]

I have used Square link chain like in the photo at the top before and I have used square link chain like the photo at the bottom, one for mooring buoys one for garden fence.
However when using a chain or indeed a rope to turn something it is the amount of wraps or turns around the cylinder being turned that makes the difference not the shape of the link. Square link has all but disappeared from the marine world (as shown in the top photo) as to handle it requires you to change the gypsies on winches etc which is a pain in the ****. The manufacturing of square link is cheaper though so its used in DIY and home use quite a bit (bike security chains/ fences).
BTW the bottom photo shows welded link which is much weaker than forged link.
In the UK we can buy the stuff your looking for in B&Q which is our version of Home Depot or in most hardware stores so they would be my first port of call.

 

[Caterpillar Cowboy]

Also damn good for snow tire chains. Pewag brand comes to mind.

 

[theoldwizard1]

I have used Square link chain like in the photo at the top before and I have used square link chain like the photo at the bottom, one for mooring buoys one for garden fence.
.
.
.
BTW the bottom photo shows welded link which is much weaker than forged link.

Thanks for the feedback, especially the tip on welded versus forged !

The application will be for pulling round steel pipe, between 2-4" in diameter. I was told that with the chain wrapped around the pipe and then placed back over itself with a slip hook that square chain would "bite" and not slip like regular chain when the angle of the pull is nearly parallel to the pipe.

Can you confirm ?

 

[cryan]

Do you mean like towing behind a truck or similar?
I don't think the link type will make a difference as the friction comes from the wraps and choke not the edge of the link. The size of the link will make a huge difference though. If the links are to big to wrap smoothly around the pipe then you will get poor contact between the chain and pipe which will reduce surface to surface contact. Friction is king and friction comes from the amount of total contact not sharp edges.

Its hard to explain without pictures but what you need to do is choke the chains on the towing side of the pull.
So if you place the hook closest to the truck then wrap the chain in the direction moving away from the truck (4-5 turns at least) then lead the rest of the chain across the wraps in a diagonal direction and back the way you just came parallel to the pipe and pass it through the hook and then back to the truck. so that when pulling you pull from the bottom of all the turns.
The type of link makes no difference and in all honesty over short distance I would use rope tied with either a rolling hitch or timber hitch. If your lifting the pipe into the air I would use webbing lifting slings which have been inspected. choke the sling at each end of the pipe and lift in the middle. OR even better proper pipe slinging hooks.

http://www.angliahandling.co.uk/aca..._Hooks_-_Chain_Leg_Angle_60_-_90_degrees.html

 

[2oolhound]

When I was working as a rigger for hoisting pipe or round shaped apparatus a cat's paw was used with rope or wire rope. A cat's paw is two half hitches together but one left and one right. Another half hitch was used on the tail end around the bottom. The pipe would be hoisted in the vertical position this way. This works very effectively as long as the lift is in one move and the line is not allowed to come slack in which case you may have to reset the cat's paw to continue the lift.

 

[theoldwizard1]

Do you mean like towing behind a truck or similar?

No. Sorry for being vague.

I want to pull up a round steel fence post set in concrete without having to dig down and wrap the chain around the concrete footer or drilling a hole and inserting a cross bar.

I'm not certain there is anything that can grab a smooth metal post with enough force to withstand the upward pull from a very long lever and fulcrum !

 

[cryan]

Chain wont work for that. I'm not sure anything would work for that? The only thing I can think of is a Chinese finger trap style cable grip. We used to use them offshore for pulling/ securing cables and sometimes hoses. I have no idea what they cost but if I was you I would get out the pick axe and start digging?

http://www.cablegrip.com/mutype.php

 

[2oolhound]

How about clamping a U clamp on it to hold the line.(exhaust type clamp) OR if it has a threaded cap you could possibly attach something there.

 

[Outlawmws]

If it is set in concrete you have a job ahead...

Soak the area around the post VERY WELL. then play tug o' war with several guys on a rope wrapped around the top of the post to loosen it up in the hole. without that you probably haven't a prayer...

Last deal is the lift which will probably require a tripod and a come-a-long. Drill a plate with a hole just bigger than the post out of say 3/8 plate and then another hole to pull with off set a couple of inches, When this is placed on the post, it will jam sideways and give you purchase on the post... (I would pull from down low...)

 

[greasemonkey44]

ive used muffler clamps with great success; a few bottle jacks helps
the other thing that really helps is a decent sledge to get the concrete to release the pipe
get a few extra clamps; i really wrecked the last set i did

 

[theoldwizard1]

The last bunch I did, were done with shear, brute, man force ! Not going to do THAT again !

Muffler clamps could be a cheap answer.

Never underestimate the power of a long lever and a hydraulic jack !

 

[jrlp]

Hi,

I'm trying to understand what you want to do. You have 2" to 4" wide steel pipes set in concrete, that you're trying to pull up in one piece without harming/bending the pipe?

How tall are the pipes out of the ground?

Have you thought of double-wide machine chain? They make pipe clamps out of that, even chain wrenches out of it. I'm sure it would have enough purchase to bite the pipe in the other angle..

What do you have access to? Welder? Torch? Plasma? Full machine shop? What are you going to use to do the work? Hydraulic cylinders? Come-a-long? A vehicle?

Can the pole bend, or needs to be reused? How tall?

Lots of ways to go about this.. if it was me I'd wrap a couple wraps of chain around the pipe down low, and use a big c-clamp above the top of the last wrap to keep it from sliding up.. then drop it in 4low and granny and drag it out.. but then again I have 1,100+ ft/lb to the wheels and have drug 15k flat on the dirt from a dead stop.. ha ha.

Give us some more info!

 

[theoldwizard1]

I'm trying to understand what you want to do. You have 2" to 4" wide steel pipes set in concrete, that you're trying to pull up in one piece without harming/bending the pipe?

While more like 1½ to 3". Keeping the pipe straight with minor marks is a bonus.

How tall are the pipes out of the ground?

3'-4' below grade, 4' above grade.

Have you thought of double-wide machine chain? They make pipe clamps out of that, even chain wrenches out of it. I'm sure it would have enough purchase to bite the pipe in the other angle..

What do you have access to?

3 tonn hydraulic flor jack.

... if it was me I'd wrap a couple wraps of chain around the pipe down low, and use a big c-clamp above the top of the last wrap to keep it from sliding up.

I had my doubts about a C-clamp holding.

I'm trying to skip the step of digging down to get the chain around the concrete.

 

[Outlawmws]

While more like 1½ to 3". Keeping the pipe straight with minor marks is a bonus.


3'-4' below grade, 4' above grade.

Did they drive it in and simply concrete the top? or is this solid all the way down?

I don't think your going to save the pipe...

 

[theoldwizard1]

Did they drive it in and simply concrete the top? or is this solid all the way down?

I don't think your going to save the pipe...

The hole was dug to full depth and then concrete was added from the bottom of the hole to the top.. Obviously you have never lived in "suburbia". There are literally millions of fence posts installed this way !!

If you can pull it out (and I have pulled several using brute strength) then a couple of wacks with a sledge will break off the concrete. If you haven't severely damaged the post it will be reusable.

 

[Packard V8]

I pulled some the hard way:

1. Drill a hole 1" in diameter perpendicular through the pipe/

2. Put a 1" bar through a 1" clevis, one hole on each side of the pipe.

3. Back a boom wrecker/recovery truck up to the post, hook the winch to the clevis and winch 'er out.

jack vines

 

[jrlp]

While more like 1½ to 3". Keeping the pipe straight with minor marks is a bonus.


I had my doubts about a C-clamp holding.

No. A good c-clamp can collapse that 3" pipe. Use a forged 404-406 Wilton. I think they're rated for 6,800lb clamping force.

The only thing the clamp is for is to keep the chain from sliding up the pole. Most of the friction to hold it in place will be from the chain, the clamp is just clamped on top of it to keep it from sliding up, not to actually attach the chain to the pipe. If you were close I'd go pull 'em out for ya for some drinks!

 

[Andersonfarms]

not sure it you have got your post out yet, but try a skidsteer with a four in one bucket, those things have some clamping force and the skidsteer should be able to wiggle it free then lift up. sometimes easier said then done but i have did this on 6-8in dia tree trunks

 

[andywander]

.. but then again I have 1,100+ ft/lb to the wheels ...

What's a foot per pound?

 

[Outlawmws]

The hole was dug to full depth and then concrete was added from the bottom of the hole to the top.. Obviously you have never lived in "suburbia". There are literally millions of fence posts installed this way !!

If you can pull it out (and I have pulled several using brute strength) then a couple of wacks with a sledge will break off the concrete. If you haven't severely damaged the post it will be reusable.

I have no clue where your posts are and I've seen posts stuck in the ground every way imaginable in all environments, particularly suburbia...