Square taper shank drill bits, what tool to use with?

[infinkc]

I tried to search, but what type of chuck were these intended to be used with?

 

[rlitman]

A brace.

 

[OccupantRJ]

Here you go. I cut the square shank off and use them in a reversible drill. My dad was a carpenter, so I inherited a few.

 

[RTM]

Here you go. I cut the square shank off and use them in a reversible drill. My dad was a carpenter, so I inherited a few.

Most of those need to be run slower when used in a power drill, don't want to go the full 2500 rpm, will lose the effect of the lead screw.

 

[nadogail]

The Square Shank Auger Bits are for use in a manual brace, an early version of a cordless drill.

 

[isb cornbinder]

My first cordless drill.

 

[neophyte]

Most of those need to be run slower when used in a power drill, don't want to go the full 2500 rpm, will lose the effect of the lead screw.

This.
Screw feed drill bits, if even used in power drills, should only be used in very low speed power drills.
The 350RPM slow gear of the milwaukee Hole Hawg right angle drill for example.
Too high of a speed can make the screw feed dangerous.
It should also be pointed out, that many square drive, and Auger buts, are not made out of “heat resistant” steel alloys, and the temper can easily get removed from the cutting points if used in a power drill. (You can tell if you “ruined” a bit, by the bit turning blue from heat).

 

[rlitman]

Here you go. I cut the square shank off and use them in a reversible drill. My dad was a carpenter, so I inherited a few.

I have a bunch of these, and did this with a few when I needed something for a specific task. For the most part, it's not a good idea. The steel isn't up to the high speed cutting of a power drill and will wear down way too fast. And the hand-forged shanks will have lots of runout, so they don't even work well in low-speed high-torque power drills like a Hole Hawg.

I'm all about a good ship auger in my Hole Hawg, but it's going to be a single flute nail-eater that's made for the task.

 

[dscheidt]

I have a bunch of these, and did this with a few when I needed something for a specific task. For the most part, it's not a good idea. The steel isn't up to the high speed cutting of a power drill and will wear down way too fast. And the hand-forged shanks will have lots of runout, so they don't even work well in low-speed high-torque power drills like a Hole Hawg.

I'm all about a good ship auger in my Hole Hawg, but it's going to be a single flute nail-eater that's made for the task.

also, good quality bits in good condition are worth more than a bit to fit a three jaw chuck costs.

 

[KnurledNut]

I have an expansive auger bit with the shank cut off that works pretty well in a drill.

 

[Snip's]

It's the wood cousin to this...

 

[The Cobbler]

different geometry on those hand brace bits. even at slow speed they can be dangerous in a power drill

 

[Nutria]

Good intel on sharpening auger bits here (other drills too):

Sharpening Drill Bits - Auger, Spade, Brad-Point, and Forstner

Step-by-step guide to sharpening drill bits for woodworking. Learn precise methods for auger, spade, brad-point, and Forstner bits.

workshopcompanion.com