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Squashfest81

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Jumping around on projects. I decided to toss a set of tires on the old Trek 950 that I saved from scrap a year ago. She’s been hung in the shed tireless since.
I realized that I needed to order a pair of presta 26in tubes and since I had to wait I would clean the nasty rims.
Scrubbed them in the parts washer at work. Now I’m motivated to tear into the whole bike. Brought it into the basement to not freeze.
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Squashfest81

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Should be able to sneak the rest of the parts through the parts washer this week. Some things are jacuzziing in the evaporust as we type. I’ll need to respray the stem.
Then it’s on to polishing the frame to bring back that killer dark purple.
 
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Squashfest81

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Thought I’d address this killer Trek seat while cleaning. She’s a 97 which is perfect for the 950. Light scrub and mink oil.
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Squashfest81

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The frame got a bath in the parts washer at lunch. That purple cleaned up way better than I expected.
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Squashfest81

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Need opinions. The stem and bars are past just a clean, along with the headset hardware stuff.
Thinking I’ll weld a set of bars in to the stem and smooth it all out ala old Klein Mission Control bars? Anyone done it? Clamp it in the stem to align it, sink some plug welds, cut off the unwanted parts, and smooth.
 

Bigblue&Goldie

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Are they aluminum or steel? I'd be more inclined to try to find some cheap retro hardware on ebay. A KORE or Ritchey stem would be cool. You need something to compliment that rad seat. Maybe an old school set of Easton bars. All that stuff I couldn't afford in that era....
 
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Squashfest81

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Bigblue, all steel. That’s why I’m thinking it may be a fun project. Here’s a straighter set of bars that I think I can weld and blend into something cool.
If not, I’m just out time.
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Squashfest81

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I cut a few spots to tack it then I’ll go at it with the grinder to remove all the unwanted metal. More zap then grind into shape.
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Squashfest81

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Trimmed, maybe, an 1/8in off where that stem bolt thing sits to sink it down a little and zapped it in. Also got the bars welded to the stem. Need to do some shaping, but it’s coming together.

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e-tek

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Loving this thread. Just spent some time perusing your collections and work - very nice! I was into bikes big-time in the 80s/90s when I was a West Coast triathlete, then got into mountain biking. Road-raced on a Vitus-Carbon (carbon-fibre masterpiece with aluminum lugs), then got a Cannondale uni-strut for mountain biking. My last race was as one of 9 'pro-soloists', in the 24HRs of Adrenalin, back in 1995. I still have my training bike (a Miyata) that I had mounted it in my old garage!
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Squashfest81

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Thanks mikegt for posting Paul’s link. I just glanced at his videos and I don’t think I’ve ever bumped into his stuff. Looks good.
E-tec, you ever let the Miyata down?
 
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Squashfest81

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Making progress. Going to need a bunch of sanding and filling to get it as smooth as I want, but it’s looking cool.
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Squashfest81

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Been wanting to try a spray glittery clear. Here’s the Duplicolor Effex clear on some bare steel.
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Squashfest81

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Oh my… horrible… I even used masking tape. One twist and it ripped through the tape, my glitter clear, to bare metal.
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Squashfest81

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Decided I wasn’t going to redo the bars. Enlisted the daughter to find a sticker to hide it. Was thinking flag, but we came upon this glow in the dark Vineyard Vines whale.
Totally suits our little seaside town.
Of course it didn’t stick well so off it came, pulling more clear, and on went the spray adhesive. Then we might as well lay some glitter clear over it to blend…?
Should have it on the bike path this week.
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Squashfest81

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Got the derailleur cables in and the chain on. Needs some fine tuning, but she road to the bike path before I lost the light.
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Squashfest81

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I’ve pulled over to multiple couches on the side of the road only to learn that they are not leather. Today, snagged a piece of brown leather. So, anyone recovered an old seat? Leave that burlap? Find some foam? Tips?
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Squashfest81

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Peeled the fake leather off. Next was a burlappy layer that I peeled. Under that was a second burlap layer in better condition, so it will stay along with some type of thin pad. Horsehair maybe? Trimmed my leather and plan to spray adhesive it in the morning. Start on the top to get the concave shape down and then stretch and pull to wrap to the back.
Would have liked to have come upon some thick neoprene or something to replace the padding, but, we will just see how it goes.
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Squashfest81

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Been watching for a 24in for the boy. This Kona Hula popped up. My plan was to grab a decent 24in that we could convert to a 1 by 8 as that has been awesome on his sisters Specialized.
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Squashfest81

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We have this set of funky 24in alloys that the boy wants to use. Don’t worry, we will pull the mongoose stickers. I’d like to convert to QR axles, which I have off another 24in, and ideally purchase an 8 speed freewheel. The wheel to the right is a 7 speed mega range freewheel on a 24 that looks like it’s compatible if I must. So, what do we know? All freewheels the same? QR stuff and solid are the same?
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SlappyWhite

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For some strange legacy reason (IMO) solid axles are usually different than QR (different thread/diameter), but close in size. This usually means the solid axle bearing cones will not change over to the QR axle and you will need QR cones with the right size seals that work with the cups in the hub. Easy check is to see if the axle nut from the solid axle threads onto the QR axle, if not the cones from the solid axle will not thread onto the QR axle. More times than not the cones and "seals" on the QR donor will work with the solid axle hub cups IF they are the same brand hub, but no guarantees.

The next complexity in an axle swap is to get the hub/wheel spacing correct (are the drop outs the same width or different for the two wheels and the bike???). This will also impact the number of speeds the freewheel can be. Most likely they will all be "modern" Shimano freewheel threads so they will have the same threads. The alloy/mag wheel cannot be redished of course so it will come down to spacers and spacing to get it right.

It is not a hard swap out, just fiddly.... I have done lots of these (solid to QR and even some QR to solid...) but it usually takes some digging around in the parts donor bins to get all the required bits and bobs...
 
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Squashfest81

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Slappy, great info as always. On a better look at the alloy wheels, they have this different style sealed hub deal that does not look like a match for my QR stuff. I’m going to just stick with the stock freewheel on the alloys for now.
Need to remind myself that he’ll be on a 26er before I realize.
Want to dig up some nicer aluminum bars, all new cables, and do a deep clean. Then he will be ready to go.
 
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Squashfest81

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Back to the Three Star Deluxe. I did a little test with 1000 grit wet sand. That should smooth it all out. Then it’s all getting the BLO treatment after a full tear down.
Pic to remind the GJ.
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Squashfest81

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I’ve got all the parts to get the boys Kona together this week.
Then the side of the road bike dry spell was broken today.
I almost didn’t stop cause it’s a garbage Mongoose, but wait it’s got 27.5 by 2.8 tires and discs. Hmmmm, those are some fun parts.
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Squashfest81

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Got the Kona tuned up the other day. I don’t love it, so she may need to find a new home.
Got back to the Super V. Got the disc brake stuff adjusted, the 9 speed 42 tooth cassette on, shifter and brake levers. She’s a funky ride.
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Squashfest81

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All that extra height on the fork has been haunting me. Stock form with the headshock, the stem would be just off the headset. I’m thinking when they converted to a normal shock they just ran the extra length.
I needed to cut it. Decided to take a big inch off and leave a pair of spacers.
And I needed the Hollowtech socket to pull the BB, so that arrived.
I was just planning to slap this thing together and get a feel for her before going further, but it’s a good thing I’m pulling her all apart as she don’t have no grease.
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