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SquashCycle Bikes

Grant Gunderson

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I think that shock was after Proflex switched from using Elastomers for the suspension. I remember wanting that bike with the elastomer suspension back in high-school. K2 bought Proflex out and started to brand the bikes under their brand, but that only lasted a few years. I think that shock was from the same era as when K2 was using this piezoelectric light on the K2 "Four" ski for vibration dampening. Didnt Rockshocks also come out with the original "brain" system about the same time?
 
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Bigblue&Goldie

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I have no idea.....I was too young to do anything but drool over that nice of a bike! I'm curious about the RockShox brain you mention; was this on the rear shock or did they do one on their forks as well? My wife's Epic has the brain setup, which is pretty cool in my opinion.
 

Grant Gunderson

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I have no idea.....I was too young to do anything but drool over that nice of a bike! I'm curious about the RockShox brain you mention; was this on the rear shock or did they do one on their forks as well? My wife's Epic has the brain setup, which is pretty cool in my opinion.
From what I remember it was for a rear shock. Maybe it was on a trek or Canondale. I dont remember, but it was on one of the more proprietary bike setups.
 
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Squashfest81

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Going to have to do some more googling on the electric shock situation. Planning on riding both battery and no battery this weekend and see what I can tell.
Pulled this rear wheel internal 4 speed coaster brake off a trashed 1999ish Trek beachy cruiser.
Going to try to run it on the old Schwinn Speedster mtb project. Gives me a few gears, as I was going to go single, and solves the rear brake reach issue while looking cleaner.
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Squashfest81

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Changed the tire and mocked up the internal 4 speed coaster brake wheel, along with the stem, bar, and old grips I plan to use. Check out the old Schwinn stick shift that will mount at the stem!
I’ll use an old Stronglight crank or an Apex crank I just saved, so I’ll convert to a square taper bottom bracket. Don’t worry, the chain guard must stay.
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thank you dog gif
 
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Squashfest81

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The Super V had been converted to an air shock front fork previously, but the rear remained spring. When riding, it’s way stiffer than I’ve gotten used too.
I’ve got a rear Fox air shock on the Stumpy. Can I move it over to the V? Both are about the same length. I would guess the mounting is universal?
Overhead pic.
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Grant Gunderson

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You can change out the D U bushings on the rear shock to fit others, as long as the eye to eye and the stroke remain constant. Personally I prefer coil any day. You should probably be able to find a lighter coil to better suit you dirt cheap. Also in your image the preload on that coil is set way too high! Back that ring off. It should be less than ⅓ of the threaded area at absolute max. Looking closer I think that might be the wrong coil for that shock all together.
 
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Squashfest81

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Thanks GG. Care to share your thoughts on coil over air? How about which one of those 2 to run? I can get closeups.
I’m a single track trail type rider, no big air, and being on the coast I don’t have huge climbs.
For me the full suspension is key to keep the roots from hammering me.
I’ll start by backing that preload off.
 

Grant Gunderson

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It's really going to come down to which ones are in better shape at that age. The air one will most likely need an air can rebuild at a minimum. Most likely both would benefit from having a full damper rebuild and flush. I'm betting the seals in both have gotten hard and brittle. Should be lots of how to's available for that age of shocks. Only special tools you would provably need is a set of shaft clamps. You can find those cheep on Ebay these days.

Problem is from looking at your picture I dont think that spring is correct at all of that shock. It looks way too short. Wouldn't mind seeing a pic of it with the preload backed off to where it is just touching plus a turn. Backing off the preload will make it feel less stiff. Ideally you should get 25-30% sag of the shock with just your weight on the bike. You achieve that by selecting the closest coil, then adjust the preload to fine tune. Same with an air shock, always inflate it so you get the correct sag, before messing with any of the other settings, such as rebound and compression.

In general, coil setups are more linear than air. As all air suspension ramps up towards the end of the stroke. I.E,. gets progressively harder to compress. Coil shocks also tend to have better small bump sensitivity and are more supple. This why Push and Vorspring both make coil conversion kits to convert modern air forks back to open bath coil systems. It's also why I have converted every bike I have owned for the past 6 years or so to the Push 11-6 rear shocks.

The industry switched to air shocks, as it didnt require having to stock different spring rates for each riders weight and the leverage ratio for each bike. I.E. cheaper for the masses. A properly tuned coil is almost always superior.
 
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Squashfest81

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GG, that all makes total sense. So the air shock is pretty good and allows easy adjustment from a 135lb rider to a 220lb rider.
Haven’t pulled the V down to back off the preload and grab closer pics. Then you’ll have to let me know if I should work with it, switch to the air, or choose some different spring.
 
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Squashfest81

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Last week I came upon an older Univega road bike that was in rough shape. I grabbed it basically for the cool Apex crank set.
Drive side came right off, but the non drive side… It had those threaded plastic covers, which looking back I should have done a dozen things before cracking off the entire face. This left the threads in blocking the bolt. I didn’t want to destroy the aluminum, so I went with heat. Melted the plastic to bubbling and the bolt pulled through. Let the plastic harden and it threaded out with pliers.
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Grant Gunderson

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Last week I came upon an older Univega road bike that was in rough shape. I grabbed it basically for the cool Apex crank set.
Drive side came right off, but the non drive side… It had those threaded plastic covers, which looking back I should have done a dozen things before cracking off the entire face. This left the threads in blocking the bolt. I didn’t want to destroy the aluminum, so I went with heat. Melted the plastic to bubbling and the bolt pulled through. Let the plastic harden and it threaded out with pliers.
484-F41-CE-DC63-409-E-BC4-A-F39-ABB6-C855-D.jpg
Would a crank pull not have worked? Can’t really tell by the photo.
 
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Squashfest81

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The crank bolt wouldn’t fit past the broken cap and the broken cap was threaded in blocking the crank threads. All stupid, but out now.
 
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Squashfest81

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Finally pulled the Super-V down to mess with the rear shock preload. She was super stiff, due to being so compressed. Got her spun down, but the spring loses tension.
GG, I’m in awe that you stated that the spring was wrong and too short for the shock. So, any guesses on what is going on here? Do I buy a spring? Like based on the bike and my weight?
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clinking beer mugs smileys
 
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Squashfest81

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That’s the Fox Vanilla with the too short spring.
The other option is the Fox Float RC air shock off the Stumpjumper. So? I’m leaning towards keeping the shocks where they belong and replace the spring on the Super-V. What do I do?
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handsup emojis
 

Grant Gunderson

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Finally pulled the Super-V down to mess with the rear shock preload. She was super stiff, due to being so compressed. Got her spun down, but the spring loses tension.
GG, I’m in awe that you stated that the spring was wrong and too short for the shock. So, any guesses on what is going on here? Do I buy a spring? Like based on the bike and my weight?
77412-AC3-B2-ED-4141-9-DAF-B5-C0-AFA7-C71-F.jpg
clinking beer mugs smileys
Got a photo of that spring on the shock not mounted in the bike?

Springs are generally based off of eye to eye distance, stroke length and weight. Weight will depend on how much you ride plus the leverage ratio of the bike.

If you can google an old spring weight chart for that bike would be a big help. I doubt you can find any springs of that diameter new, so most likely will have to search via eBay.
 
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Squashfest81

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While the rear shock stuff is going on. My adapter from a 1 piece bottom bracket to a 3 piece bb showed up. Haven’t pulled one of these apart since I was a kid in the late 80’s.
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Squashfest81

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You can see the adapter on the floor. I’ll need to pop those bearing seats out and bolt the adapter in. I should have a bb that will work. Do I run the Stronglight crank with just the small ring or the SR Apex with the small ring? I kinda like the Apex. Hopefully I can get the chain line right to fit it in the chain guard.
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Squashfest81

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Think I’ve got the parts to make it work, but she’s gonna need some internal grinding to smooth it out and allow the adapter to press in.
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Xti04

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Got back on my gravel bike! Of course its setup for road with a set of carbon wheels right now. Scored a travel contract at a hospital 4 miles from the house so I can finally ride to work! Feels good to get back at it after over a year off the bike. Even if its just short rides, still enjoying those few minuted before I walk into a living nightmare !
 
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Squashfest81

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Xti, 4 mile morning ride is perfect. Nice!
Shaped the Speedster and the adapter. It’s tight, but I think it will fit. Haven’t gone full press in as I want it tight.
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Squashfest81

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Why does that chain stay look cracked? Oh my, I’m already in for the night. I’ll check in the morning. Hmmm, I’ll weld it. It’s crazy heavy steel. Yeah, I’ll weld it.
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Squashfest81

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Worried sick all night over this crack. Cleaned the spot. Just dirt and a horrible weld. They took such care to smooth the welds at the head tube, but the rest… good enough.
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Squashfest81

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Next crazy thought. Check out the way the chain stays are pinched and have a hole. Looks like it lines up with where the 4spd cable comes out. Run it internal? Through the hole, past the bb, and up the tube. Pop one hole in the side of the down tube to loop up to the stick shift?
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Grant Gunderson

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Next crazy thought. Check out the way the chain stays are pinched and have a hole. Looks like it lines up with where the 4spd cable comes out. Run it internal? Through the hole, past the bb, and up the tube. Pop one hole in the side of the down tube to loop up to the stick shift?
33-C33-E9-F-C40-C-4115-8-F06-10-CC1-AC3-C7-E9.jpg
Is the BB drilled to allow it to pass through there? Usually its just a tiny water hole.
 
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Squashfest81

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This 93’ Proflex 953 followed me home. How could I not at $35 off marketplace? Needs elastomers or some type of replacement.
It’s like the K2’s older brother.
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slowtwitch73

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Man I am not sorry Girvin went away.

Looks like you got the period Smoke Dart tire combo... they set the world on fire with those for a few years.
 
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Squashfest81

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Those Smokey Panaracers are a little dry rotted, but I’m comfortable running them with tubes.
Spent a few minutes googling elastomers again, and it appears there are a few options out there. 120 front and rear. I’m not ready, but when I am.
 
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Squashfest81

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This really peaked my interest.
A Mount Snow lift pass from Oct 4, 1992! The fact that the tag is still there is wild. But wow, that’s not the bike I’d choose to take up the Mount Snow lift and ride down.
3-F9-B5325-1639-4863-A8-A5-CA1-D6-CDA2069.jpg
 
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