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Stacked two 44" HF 13 drawer boxes

IONH

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Total height, ~73 5/8" including the lower set of wheels still installed. As I'm 6'1" (73"), a bit tall for me but it'll still be good for me. I can comfortably see into all the drawers except the very top long one.

It is pretty sturdy, though the top box is empty right now. I think once it's loaded down, it'll be even more sturdy though. If not, I'll anchor it to the wall.

For the build, here's a rough list of steps I took...

1. Removed all drawers from new box.

2. Flipped new box over onto top (on cardboard) so wheels were sticking up.

3. Removed casters.

4. Created a frame which fit inside the outer skin on the bottom of the new box. Used two 2x6 across and two 2x4 spacers to keep insects or whatever from getting in.


5. Confirmed frame fit the top of the old box.


6. Fed bolts which held the wheels on up from inside the angle iron so they would poke through about 1/4".


7. Used a rubber mallet to dimple the wood with the protruding bolts.


8. Put the frame back onto the old box.

9. Used a 1/8" drill bit to drill straight through the wood and into the top of the old box. Repeated 4 times for the inner-most 4 holes.

10. Put 3" deck screws in the holes to secure the frame to the old box top.


11. Drilled the outer holes through stepping up from 1/8" to 1/2".


12. Drilled the wooden frame out to 1/2".

13. Drilled the holes on the old box top previously filled by the screws out to 1/2". Used less aggressive bits this time, you can tell the top was less distorted by them.


14. Bolts line up.


15. Put new box on top of old box with frame in between.

16. Bolted old box to new box with 8 @ 3" M10x1.5 bolts, washers and lock washers (probably overkill).


17. Outside photo op, missing drawers.


18. Drawers finished.
 
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neel2008

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pretty neat....but how do you get into the top half of the top chest? Do you wear drywall stilts while wrenching?

Edit: will be interesting to see how the wheels on the lower unit hold up when its all loaded down....
 

472scout

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Be real careful about not opening more than one drawer at a time.

Glad I don't use imageshack, those popups are annoying.
 
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IONH

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pretty neat....but how do you get into the top half of the top chest? Do you wear drywall stilts while wrenching?

Edit: will be interesting to see how the wheels on the lower unit hold up when its all loaded down....

Third sentence, try again.

Total height, ~73 5/8" including the lower set of wheels still installed. As I'm 6'1" (73"), a bit tall for me but it'll still be good for me. I can comfortably see into all the drawers except the very top long one.

I never open more than one drawer at a time as it stood before, don't think I'll start that habit now. The largest top box drawer I will probably leave for lighter items just to be safe. As said, if it appears to wobble, I'll anchor it to the wall.

I don't roll my carts around regularly, so I don't see the wheel degrading any time soon unless they flat out collapse. Stay tuned.
 

472scout

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When are you getting the top chest? All the cool kids have them. :lol_hitti

Seriously I don't see anything wrong with it. I would definitely anchor it to the wall though.
 

Stinger

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Looks good. I'd probably move all the double drawers to the bottom box and put only singles up top to keep the weight down.
 
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IONH

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Glad to see it's not all hate this morning.

Looks good. I'd probably move all the double drawers to the bottom box and put only singles up top to keep the weight down.

But then I mix the wrinkle and gloss finish within the same box. That might look sillier than it does already.
 

rslaback

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Have you considered taking the casters off the bottom? I doubt you are going to roll that baby around and it might allow you to see into the top drawer. Another thing to think about is I believe another guy did the same thing but put the boxes top to top so the long drawers were both in the middle. I believe the drawers are pretty easy to flip upside down.
 
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IONH

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What is the weight capacity of the 44” box?

Not double the weight of one bottom 44" box.

Considering it can handle a top chest loaded, it wouldn't be too far over.

Stole this from the other thread...
Bottom weight empty = 306lbs
Bottom capacity = 818lbs
Bottom top panel capacity = 701lbs
 
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IONH

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Have you considered taking the casters off the bottom? I doubt you are going to roll that baby around and it might allow you to see into the top drawer. Another thing to think about is I believe another guy did the same thing but put the boxes top to top so the long drawers were both in the middle. I believe the drawers are pretty easy to flip upside down.

That'd been pretty neat if I weren't already done and too lazy to go back. I could have also just nut/bolted it instead of leveraging the prior caster threaded holes.
 
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IONH

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The "neat" part would have been to flip the top one over so they were "top to top" for the big drawers in the middle.

I considered removing the casters from the bottom chest as I will probably never move it. In the event I do want to someday move it, then I'll be pretty much out of luck unless I 100% empty it.

I'll see how useful it is as it stands before I make the decision to remove the wheels. Who knows, as I load it I might find out and remove them.
 

Mike007

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Just curious, why didn't you put them side by side? Was it a space issue? Thats what I did and put a top across both. Makes a nice work bench.
 
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IONH

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Just curious, why didn't you put them side by side? Was it a space issue? Thats what I did and put a top across both. Makes a nice work bench.

Wall space is a hot commodity in my garage. This new 44" replaced my old 26" 3 tier Craftsman setup and I net more storage total.

I've also got a 52" Husky bottom box as well with a surprisingly decent factory wooden top.

Plus my melamine topped work bench which is about 16 feet long and 3 feet deep so I did not need the additional bench top.
 

Gradyhd

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I think it's a great idea. I've mixed my boxes to get more storage in one unit, but never thought to use two bottoms. I'll have to start measuring mine.
 
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IONH

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I think it's a great idea. I've mixed my boxes to get more storage in one unit, but never thought to use two bottoms. I'll have to start measuring mine.

I had done the calculations before pulling the trigger on purchasing a second bottom box. The storage capacity was about 50% more and the cost was only 33% more (assuming $299 for top and $399 for bottom).

Time spent was about an hour total as I had the wood laying around. Didn't include the drive to True Value for $10 worth of metric bolts, washers and lock washers.
 

rslaback

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I had done the calculations before pulling the trigger on purchasing a second bottom box. The storage capacity was about 50% more and the cost was only 33% more (assuming $299 for top and $399 for bottom).

Time spent was about an hour total as I had the wood laying around. Didn't include the drive to True Value for $10 worth of metric bolts, washers and lock washers.

There is a coupon in the HF coupon thread for the bottom for $359 which makes it even more affordable.
 
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IONH

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There is a coupon in the HF coupon thread for the bottom for $359 which makes it even more affordable.

Yeah, I think I actually got it for $349 with a similar coupon from a magazine. Was an easy decision even if I left the very top shelf completely empty.
 

PT Doc

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Not double the weight of one bottom 44" box.

Considering it can handle a top chest loaded, it wouldn't be too far over.

Stole this from the other thread...
Bottom weight empty = 306lbs
Bottom capacity = 818lbs
Bottom top panel capacity = 701lbs

So 800# cap for 1 of these. Bottom one has 300# on top of it. So 500# left in cap. You could put 250# in each or more on the bottom and less on top. I'd be weighing things as you reload cause if that comes down and you are near it, you could be really hurt since it would likely fold forwards since it can't go back wards. Be safe.
 
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IONH

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So 800# cap for 1 of these. Bottom one has 300# on top of it. So 500# left in cap. You could put 250# in each or more on the bottom and less on top. I'd be weighing things as you reload cause if that comes down and you are near it, you could be really hurt since it would likely fold forwards since it can't go back wards. Be safe.

I don't believe they weigh 300 pounds even with the wheels in their original crate. Without the drawers and wheels, I'd say maybe 85-90 pounds. Lets say a hair over 200 pounds total.

There also must be some wiggle room for going over the limit, though Jap stuff, not sure if I want to rely on that.
 

472scout

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Although the numbers sound reasonable, history has shown that you can't trust HF published capacities. As I recall for the 56" box, just as an example, they've published two wildly different capacities in the last year or so. Also, if you take a look inside these boxes the vertical uprights are not impressive. Having said that, I would keep my lighter stuff in the top box, anchor it to wall studs, and not worry about it. Load it up with heavy pullers and clamps, 3/4" drive impact sockets sets, boat loads of wrenches, hammers, pipe wrenches, etc. and there will be hell to pay.
 

rharman

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The HF website shows unloaded weight as 302 and capacity of over 2600. I don't know that I believe the 2600 but it should leave plenty of wiggle room for loading the box(es) up.

I'd still worry about it folding in on itself though.
 

NUTTSGT

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Followed the link in you sig to get here.

I like it, it's a great way to get more storage and take up less floor space. We're comparable in height so looking in the top box would yield the same effect for you and me.

If it were mine, I'd take the casters off and put it on a shorter wooden platform. This does two things, allows the entire base on the bottom to support the weight of the unit. Secondly, if someone breaks in, they're not going to be able to roll it out.

If you leave the casters under it, I'd build a sliding box to step on for the taller drawers. Something as simple as a 2x4 frame, plywood top and two casters. Put the casters underneath/inside the front of the box, with only a small clearance (1/8-3/16") This will allow it to slide out but it shouldn't roll when you stand on it. Push down on the handle (yes, it'll need a handle) slightly when you push it under the tool box and it take the weight off the back of the box and make it easy to slide back out of the way.
 
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IONH

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Good idea on storing a step stool box underneath. I'll consider that. Though I have plenty of milk crates around which can be readily grabbed too, so it has not been a problem yet.

Haven't near sorted bits into it yet, maybe this week.
 

albaran

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I just put a 3 in 1 mill/drill/lathe on top of my HF 44" which I estimate weighs around 400 lbs. The top section did bow in very slightly but the sides show no sign of any deflection. I could have put a board under it but its too late now. My point is that this cabinet is very sturdy and should handle heavy loads.
 

PT Doc

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I just put a 3 in 1 mill/drill/lathe on top of my HF 44" which I estimate weighs around 400 lbs. The top section did bow in very slightly but the sides show no sign of any deflection. I could have put a board under it but its too late now. My point is that this cabinet is very sturdy and should handle heavy loads.

If it has already bowed would it be safe to assume this load will continue to strain the metal? Just because it bowed slightly doesn't mean that you have reached max material strain, does it?
 

rsanter

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I just put a 3 in 1 mill/drill/lathe on top of my HF 44" which I estimate weighs around 400 lbs. The top section did bow in very slightly but the sides show no sign of any deflection. I could have put a board under it but its too late now. My point is that this cabinet is very sturdy and should handle heavy loads.

Put a board under it, the vibrations from the machine and time will cause the metal to 'creep' which means it will continue to bow over time

I have my lathe mounted on mine and installed a Formica covered board. It holds it will but you can't move the thing very fast because you can feel the weight sitting on the top. But it has Been that way for a couple years now with no troubles

Bob
 

WhiteTrash

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The "neat" part would have been to flip the top one over so they were "top to top" for the big drawers in the middle.

While it would be neat to have both of the the full length drawers in the middle, flipping the top one over would put the half drawers on the left on the top and the right on the bottom.

I do like the idea of stacking them though. And if I ever get around to getting me some, I will likely do the same. But I would move the deeper drawers to the bottom. Of course, I would get them both at the same time and wouldn't have to worry about 2 different finishes.
 

cheechi

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Put a board under it, the vibrations from the machine and time will cause the metal to 'creep' which means it will continue to bow over time

I have my lathe mounted on mine and installed a Formica covered board. It holds it will but you can't move the thing very fast because you can feel the weight sitting on the top. But it has Been that way for a couple years now with no troubles

Bob

on the HF 44" if you have room, buy two of the sides, extend your board from end to end and put really good supports under it to spread the load out. Ultimately the casters will still be carrying the weight, but the best way I can say it is it's not as much strain on the box's metal as you spread it out to the sides. Even better if you can take the casters off & put it in something fixed. Several examples in pictures on the boards here.
 

santagary

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I'd put my sawedoff shotgun and a pistol in the top drawer where I couldn't see it but could feel it and grab it quickly for quick protection and storage out of harms' way and hidden from kids. :thumbup::thumbup:
 
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