Starrett machinist level...old
- Thread starter 1982fxr
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karoc
Well-known member
I think that black finish may come off or just part of it will,and what holds vials in place may also desolve come loose but that may be good thing.
DaveInHouston
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Beautiful! Are the vials still intact? Anything made by Starrett is high quality. Should be no problem soaking it in Evaporust. If you have a bad vial I’m sure you could send it to Starrett to have it repaired.
DaveInHouston
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Clean that rascal up and put a good coat of high gloss black enamel on it and it’ll be good for another hundred years.
Cooter Brown
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I've got the same level--it was my grandfather's. He probably got it in the 30s.
To clean it, I'd start off with toothbrush dampened with WD40 or a light oil and hope most of the enamel (or japanning) is intact.
Believe it or not that same pattern level was in the Starrett catalog last time I looked.
To clean it, I'd start off with toothbrush dampened with WD40 or a light oil and hope most of the enamel (or japanning) is intact.
Believe it or not that same pattern level was in the Starrett catalog last time I looked.
neophyte
Well-known member
Not leaving an item submerged in Evaporust can cause lines or other marks on the object you’re removing rust from.
I’m not sure whether Evaporust has any effect on glass, or whether it might affect putty or other adhesives used to fix the bubble in place.
isb cornbinder
Well-known member
I use EVAPORUST often. I would suggest wetting some shop cloths and placing them over the rusted areas. If you are concerned about the shop cloths drying out, you could set the level, with the shop cloths in a container with about a centimeter of Evaporust in the bottom The liquid will be wicked up into the cloth.
I cannot say NO to anything STARRETT. Each of these Starrett have had a little rust touch-up in small areas.
I cannot say NO to anything STARRETT. Each of these Starrett have had a little rust touch-up in small areas.
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Cooter Brown
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Looking good. What is the size of the level?
The one I have is nominally 12", actually right at 11 7/8".
The one I have is nominally 12", actually right at 11 7/8".
I have the 11-7/8" model as well...
Its not rusty, but it's most definitely been used. It belonged to my grandfather, but I have no idea how old it actually is. You can't even read the stamping on the bottom, but I'm not sure if that's due to excessive use, or the old man cleaning it up with a file or something....?
Its not rusty, but it's most definitely been used. It belonged to my grandfather, but I have no idea how old it actually is. You can't even read the stamping on the bottom, but I'm not sure if that's due to excessive use, or the old man cleaning it up with a file or something....?
Like Cooter Brown mentioned, Starrett still makes this exact level, nearly 100 years later. (perhaps longer..? I can't find much history on the 132).
https://www.starrett.com/metrology/product-detail/132-12
https://www.starrett.com/metrology/product-detail/132-12
Mohawk Dave
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I use Evapo-rust everyday. There's always a batch going on. I dunk old vials on those levels and combination squares etc.... the only way evapo-rust would get in is if that vial is no good in the first place. Some of them are glued in and the evapo-rust does not damage the glue.
When I paint those levels, (if using spray paint),I use Vaseline on manicure/pedicure Q-Tips.... Rub Vaseline on the vial, paint, dry, wipe off Vaseline.... Too hard to get masking tape in there.
Oh yea, evapo-rust will clean vial, but clean it with alcohol and Q-Tip prior to Vaseline.
Also, 1982fxr, I see you've been using evapo-rust a lot more lately. You can dilute it quite a bit btw, and it still works.
What I do example: all metal tilting mill table I just did. It had decent rust going on, but still a user. I degrease big stuff out in lawn, then put in ultrasonic with purple power for a day (soak 23.5 hours,run machine for last .5 hour).... That alone removes most of the rust. Then I take it outside and hose it off really good. Then I put it in evapo-rust to fine-tune it and get it perfect. That way I'm not using up all my expensive evapo-rust.
On big heavy ugly stuff like a big vise that's really rusty I do citric acid powder mixed with water and a big sterilite container. That removes all the rust...but it will flash rust. So I hose it off. And then I will put it in evapo rust because it seals it.
I buy a 5lb bag of citric acid powder on Amazon for $15 and it will easily make 40 gallons or more.
When I paint those levels, (if using spray paint),I use Vaseline on manicure/pedicure Q-Tips.... Rub Vaseline on the vial, paint, dry, wipe off Vaseline.... Too hard to get masking tape in there.
Oh yea, evapo-rust will clean vial, but clean it with alcohol and Q-Tip prior to Vaseline.
Also, 1982fxr, I see you've been using evapo-rust a lot more lately. You can dilute it quite a bit btw, and it still works.
What I do example: all metal tilting mill table I just did. It had decent rust going on, but still a user. I degrease big stuff out in lawn, then put in ultrasonic with purple power for a day (soak 23.5 hours,run machine for last .5 hour).... That alone removes most of the rust. Then I take it outside and hose it off really good. Then I put it in evapo-rust to fine-tune it and get it perfect. That way I'm not using up all my expensive evapo-rust.
On big heavy ugly stuff like a big vise that's really rusty I do citric acid powder mixed with water and a big sterilite container. That removes all the rust...but it will flash rust. So I hose it off. And then I will put it in evapo rust because it seals it.
I buy a 5lb bag of citric acid powder on Amazon for $15 and it will easily make 40 gallons or more.
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Mohawk Dave
Well-known member
One more thing... Evapo-rust will stay kind of sticky, so I hose off or if it fits, kitchen sink with hot water to rinse, then blow dry with compressed air.... At that point it's ready for either paint/primer or get oiled down with your favorite fluid (I usually use Marvel Mystery Oil for most bare metal stuff in my shop)
Evapo-rust does have a detergent in it, so it's pretty damn good at cleaning, not only de-rusting. It should clean that vial as good as anything else.
I've done that wet paper towel laid over big stuff before.. its slow and needs repeated... Works better on flat stuff of course.
My buddy just used spray on Krud Kutter Rust Remover.... That stuff actually worked pretty damn good. I'm going to grab a bottle next time I'm at HD.
Evapo-rust does have a detergent in it, so it's pretty damn good at cleaning, not only de-rusting. It should clean that vial as good as anything else.
I've done that wet paper towel laid over big stuff before.. its slow and needs repeated... Works better on flat stuff of course.
My buddy just used spray on Krud Kutter Rust Remover.... That stuff actually worked pretty damn good. I'm going to grab a bottle next time I'm at HD.
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Mohawk Dave
Well-known member
And I'm sure you've noticed, if you leave some stuff in too long it gets real black by pulling the carbon of the metal to the surface. Very seldom does it take more than a couple hours for most stuff... After it's gone through my ultrasonic it usually takes 30 to 60 minutes in evapo-rust.
I keep some green and maroon scotch Brite near the evapo-rust station... As it's soaking I'll pull out the item and lightly assist with knocking off the rust with scotch Brite.
I keep some green and maroon scotch Brite near the evapo-rust station... As it's soaking I'll pull out the item and lightly assist with knocking off the rust with scotch Brite.
Cooter Brown
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Thanks for finding that. Starrett is such an American treasure.
Mine (from Grandad) is in very good shape, the black enamel part still glossy. The new ones seem to be a black matte, what Starrett calls a "wrinkle" finish.
They make a distinction in the squares between the cast iron black wrinkle finish and the forged and hardened glossy. Don't know if this applies to the level--it doesn't say on the website.
I like how they call it "moderately priced" at $269.