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Starrett No. 185 Drill and Wire Gauge

Silverhair

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Joined
Oct 29, 2011
Messages
20
Location
Northern Virginia
To this as a part of a $12 estate sale bundle (also included a Craftsman four-drawer portable too chest) and did my best to clean it up in evaporust. Question is, is there anything else I can do to restore its appearance (to make it more legible)? And, are these things still used? I see Starrett still sells this model though it has been changed a bit in format and such.

Starrett 185.jpg
 

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RTM

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May 13, 2019
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SF Bay Area
I have a few similar, and I think remarking the recesses is going to be the only fix. I can tilt it to make it more legible, but still not very readable

IMG_20210318_214518-X4.jpg
 
Last edited:

slowtwitch73

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Apr 18, 2019
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Hellgate
I have a number of gauges like those.. pretty antiquated. Lot easier to throw the digi calipers etc on whatever you need to measure.
 
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2oolhound

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Dec 18, 2010
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BC Canada
That's night and day Don. Looks good.

I keep the drill index units mounted by my drill press so it's just a one hand operation and find they work great for putting away drills that have been left out or confirming a size. I tried painting over the numbers with a yellow paint pen and then wiping the surface off after a bit so only the paint in the stamped numbers showed up but it didn't work that well. Maybe I wasn't being careful enough or impatient. As long as the 1/16ths sizes show up it's easy to figure out the 32nds and 64ths in between when you're poking drills in. If I had one for those tap drill sizes I think I'd keep it in my tap drawer. I've bought those 120 drill kits for the numbered/lettered drills and they are all marked for sizes beside the sized slots in the metal cases so no real need there for these cards.
 

leg17

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Aug 11, 2011
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Kentucky
..... I tried painting over the numbers with a yellow paint pen and then wiping the surface off after a bit so only the paint in the stamped numbers showed up but it didn't work that well......
Use a paint stick. That's what they are made for.

 

senlow

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Apr 26, 2008
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Location
Wheat Ridge, Colorado
If the surface is not too pitted, I like to do a slow rust blue on the plate and then flat sand the surface. I expect that cold blue would work, but it's not as durable. I have better luck with this method than screwing around with attempting to wipe paint off the surface while allowing it to remain in the engravings. By the time I get the paint off the surface, I typically end up wiping it out of the engravings. Paint sticks work better, but still give me trouble.
 
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