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Started My Toolbox!

84TurboBuick

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Illinois
A while back I told you guys that I was going to build my own toolbox! Well, now I have the time so I started!

It measures 8ft long 48inches high and 32inches deep.

There is a 36" wide bank of drawers, a 30" bank and a 15" bank.

The frame
020-1.jpg


026-1.jpg


This is what the drawers will attach too
037-1.jpg


038-1.jpg


This is how thick the section dividers are
039-1.jpg


I've still got alot of sanding and finishing to do before I even think of starting the drawers, but its getting there!
 
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84TurboBuick

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Is this going to double as a work space? It's looking really good so far, eager to see the finished product!

It will end up too high to use as a porta-bench, but I got a few ideas.

It looks like it's gonna' be extremely strong. :)

I hope so! It took me and my neighbor to just turn it over! Its gotta be at least 200 - 250 lbs without any drawers or tools! And I still have more reinforcment to add!
 

Fins/413

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Nice job and that is some nice looking wood, you must have picked through the piles to get stuff that straight.
 

fatfillup

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Looks great. My hat is off to you for taking on such a big project. I never can keep my focus on one thing that long. I'm just starting to take on some little projects to maybe build up to larger ones.
 

GTO

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Will it have metal drawers or wooden ?

Looks good so far.

Good Luck.
 
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84TurboBuick

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First off, thanks guys for all the compliments! I really appriciate it!

The 4 x 4 's are Fir,( good eye ) I musta spent 2 hours at Menards sorting through wood to get the best ones.

The main support for the dividers is a 1 x 4 piece of finished pine. The drawer supports are 1 x 8 x 10 pieces of "Select Pine" that I ripped down. They attach horizontality, with 3 pieces sandwiched vertically.

The reason I did not use plywood is mostly due to the fact that this toolbox is meant to last me forever! I was concerned that 20 years from now, the plywood would start to delaminate from sitting in the garage and being exposed to all that humidity.

Thanks for the compliment on the corners Merk... it took me a while to come up with a way so that it wouldn't "sway". The one thing you can't see is that all the corners have 2 5" lag bolts going down through the top to hold it all together.

The drawers will be wood. Its kinda hard to explain how I'm making them... they do have to hold a 100lbs of wrenches and sockets! So I'll post some pics of how they go together.
 

Lookin4'67Galaxieconv

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That is very cool, I'm look forward to watching your progress. Are you going to have ball bearing slides for your drawers? Are you putting castors on it?

Have you thought about submitting your story about building this to a woodworking magazine when you finish? I'll bet they'd have some interest.
 
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84TurboBuick

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That is very cool, I'm look forward to watching your progress. Are you going to have ball bearing slides for your drawers? Are you putting castors on it?

Have you thought about submitting your story about building this to a woodworking magazine when you finish? I'll bet they'd have some interest.

The slides are indeed going to ball bearing... 100lb capicity.

The castors are going to be 4" "soft rubber" type. I don't want to use hard because I want to let the wood "flex" a little due to its size and weight. Plus, if my garage floor is not perfectly flat, the toolbox with start to follow the contour of the floor if it sits on hard castors.
 

vc-onthepc

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maryland
good job turbo ... hey i have an idea for casters .. my snap on box has castersl that actualy have articulation built into them ... here are some way better priced ones on ebay maybe they would fit your project .....about 30 bucks each , and for that price you coudl get 4 at snap ons 1 caster price and still be able to take the family out to dinner lol

http://cgi.ebay.com/SNAPON-CRAFTSMA...trkparms=65:12|66:2|39:1|72:1205|293:1|294:50
 

Richard Givan

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Really nice joinery on the framework. That's going to be important to keep the drawers working smoothly.

My only concern is the solid pine you use on the dividers and outside. This is summer, humidity is high, and the wood has expanded in width. This winter the humidity will drop like a rock and those pine planks will shrink (in width, not length), so you will have some unwelcome cracks between each. That probably won't hurt the performance, but will raise hell with the finished appearance, which I'm betting will be really nice. I wouldn't be surprised if you got some splits between the nails holding them to the uprights.

You stated your prejudice against plywood, but I still believe that quality plywood (birch surfaced, or if you really want to make a legacy piece, baltic birch imported stuff) would serve you better and not break down, especially if you seal the edges well.

But either way, it's a great start to a monster box.
 

v8garage

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Texas
I love it! I love old school stuff and that is about as old school as it gets. Keep up the good work!
V/8
 
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sammerdog

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Nice job, Sir?

Are you going to have 12" deep drawers on each side, or 20"-ish deep drawers on a "front" side? Either way, your set-up is going to be neat.

Please keep the pictures coming!
 
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84TurboBuick

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Have any drawings or "blueprints" to show us of your overall plan? :)

I suppose I could draw something up, but honestly I have it all in my head. I just picture what needs to go where and make it. I've always been like that.

Really nice joinery on the framework. That's going to be important to keep the drawers working smoothly.

My only concern is the solid pine you use on the dividers and outside. This is summer, humidity is high, and the wood has expanded in width. This winter the humidity will drop like a rock and those pine planks will shrink (in width, not length), so you will have some unwelcome cracks between each. That probably won't hurt the performance, but will raise hell with the finished appearance, which I'm betting will be really nice. I wouldn't be surprised if you got some splits between the nails holding them to the uprights.

You stated your prejudice against plywood, but I still believe that quality plywood (birch surfaced, or if you really want to make a legacy piece, baltic birch imported stuff) would serve you better and not break down, especially if you seal the edges well.

But either way, it's a great start to a monster box.

I understand your point, and have thought of that. So, in order to combat just what effects weather will have, I have done 2 things.

1st... I used a Minwax wood hardner on all the surfaces.

2nd... I plan on painting it in oil based paint. I am going to leave the inside wood exsposed to let it "dry" so to speak. I'm really hoping the amount of glue I used (Which is ALOT) will mitigate any cracking or splintering!
 

GDA

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Nice. Taking on something in wood and having excellent results is a testament to your skills.

Will be following the thread for updates
 

eric87

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looks great .cant wait to see more. dont be afraid to use plywood it will last a long time if it is finished properly.
 
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84TurboBuick

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Ok I got more pics today!

I started on the top today....


The two cross pieces you see that dont touch the frame are actually the supports for the dividers. The reason they don't go all the way to the end is because there is a small gap that runs from top to bottom for air flow and expansion.

002-1.jpg


I used a Rabbit bit on the router to groove the top so it lays flush with the frame.. the board you see is a test piece I used for depth.

005-2.jpg



004-2.jpg


The top will end up being 2 1" x 12" x 8' 's laid side by side.

The lower layer is 2 x 4's laid horizontaly with cross ties layed vertically.

I wanted to be able to put some toolboxes on top so I made sure it had plenty of support!

So anyhow, thats what I got done so far today.....going to try and finish the top tonight. If I do, then I'll post the results!

Stay tuned......:)
 

Doug19

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Damn that thing is going to be a beast. I'd say close to 600# unloaded if not more. Can't wait to see more progress.
 

daveblank

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The castors are going to be 4" "soft rubber" type. I don't want to use hard because I want to let the wood "flex" a little due to its size and weight. Plus, if my garage floor is not perfectly flat, the toolbox with start to follow the contour of the floor if it sits on hard castors.


The soft rubber casters might flat spot easier.
 

bgott

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The soft rubber casters might flat spot easier.

That ain't no lie!:mad: I used 4" soft rubber casters on a dolly I built to hold a Miller 330 ABP, a thousand pounds or so, and it's just about impossible to push it around the rough concrete in my carport. I'll get around to putting steel wheeled casters on it someday.
 
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84TurboBuick

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That ain't no lie!:mad: I used 4" soft rubber casters on a dolly I built to hold a Miller 330 ABP, a thousand pounds or so, and it's just about impossible to push it around the rough concrete in my carport. I'll get around to putting steel wheeled casters on it someday.

The soft rubber casters might flat spot easier.

Thanks for the imput on the castors guys! I had not thought of it squishing them so far you couldn't move it. I think I really hadn't considered the weight, just the length.

I'm getting the castors for free, so I at least have to give them a try. If they don't work out, then I'll have to spring for the hard wheels.
 
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84TurboBuick

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Got more pics today!

Got the top, sides and back done!


The carsiding is decorative, there is a layer of 2 x 4's and 1 x 8's behind it.
014-1.jpg


The top is 6 1 x 6's sitting flush with the top of the 4 x 4's
017-1.jpg


The back is more carsiding... just for looks
016-1.jpg


The last 2 pics are for scale. My daughter is 10 and over 4ft tall. Gives you an idea of how big this box really is!!
020-2.jpg


024-1.jpg


So thats where I am for now....

Going to put the bottom on tommorow and start sanding like my life depended on it! Got alot of finishing to do before I start on the drawers!

And by the way.... whoever guessed that this thing would weigh 600lbs dry is going to be pretty close. I have to push for all I'm worth just to slide it along the floor! And thats with no drawers in it!
 

Merkava_4

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I just can't see putting little piddly 4 inch casters on something like that ... that thing needs 6 or 8 inch casters. Colson Performa. :)
 

-B-

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That is no box that is wall unit I'd skip the casters and go for a nice used pallet jack make you cut out in the center and on the side then you can store the pallet jack in the side when not needed. Decent pallet jacks can be had cheaply far cheaper then casters for the weight when that unit is full.
 

nissan_crawler

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That ain't no lie!:mad: I used 4" soft rubber casters on a dolly I built to hold a Miller 330 ABP, a thousand pounds or so, and it's just about impossible to push it around the rough concrete in my carport. I'll get around to putting steel wheeled casters on it someday.

Don't do that, see below.

I just can't see putting little piddly 4 inch casters on something like that ... that thing needs 6 or 8 inch casters. Colson Performa. :)

Beat me to it.

That is no box that is wall unit I'd skip the casters and go for a nice used pallet jack make you cut out in the center and on the side then you can store the pallet jack in the side when not needed. Decent pallet jacks can be had cheaply far cheaper then casters for the weight when that unit is full.

what a pain. I think m 8" colson casters cost me $150 or so with brakes and swivels on two, it's not that expensive.
 
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