I plan on putting a 5/16" steel plate on one of my movable workbenches but that particular workbench is topped with two half inch layers of osb board. I used the osb for a little added height and because it was what I had laying around. Can I just adhere the steel plate to the osb or should I replace it with mdf or plywood? The osb bench top hasn't warped and the plate weighs over a 150lbs. I also plan on beefing up the bench since it is going to have the additional 150+lbs of weight. Any input on this would be appreciated.
Steel plate for workbench
- Thread starter WWShop
- Start date
bczygan
Well-known member
Photos of the bench?
How do you plan to affix the steel?
What kind of work will be done on it?
Bill
How do you plan to affix the steel?
What kind of work will be done on it?
Bill
drivesitfar
Well-known member
WW: i'm guessing you don't have the ability to weld yet? what size is your steel plate? i personally wouldn't put a nice plate like that over wood so if i couldn't weld which i can't at the moment i'd either bolt it to a steel frame or have a welder do it for me. lots of welding tables in the fabrication section to see pictures of and read about.
if you are not planning on welding i don't see why you couldn't bolt the steel plate onto the wood top, but it isn't something i would do.
good luck and here's a picture of a couple of my favorite welding tables.
if you are not planning on welding i don't see why you couldn't bolt the steel plate onto the wood top, but it isn't something i would do.
good luck and here's a picture of a couple of my favorite welding tables.
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Basically be using it for hammering on some stuff but nothing too serious or too heavy. Maybe sometimes use it for some heavy hammering but rarely. Not a great picture but I have some railroad track underneath the bench that I would be using on it as well. I plan on putting on bigger casters and doubling up the legs and adding more support under the bench top. Wasn't sure how to adhere it. Construction adhesive??
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lakeroadster
Well-known member
Simply bolt it down at the corners. You can always re-use it on a more substantial bench at a later date.
if you already have the plate, there is no reason you cant affix it to your current bench to have a more durrable/easier to clean/whatever reason you want a steel top workbench for. There is no reason you cant rebuild your bench later on to fit your needs as they arise. im with lakeroadster, bolt it on there and use it
chiz
chiz
I thought about this also and will probably just end up bolting it.
drivesitfar
Well-known member
WW: as i (and others) mentioned bolting it might be the best for now, but since you might be welding it later maybe clamping it might be a better idea. do you have some smallish clamps to hold it in place?
also if you do bolt it you'll need to drill holes so take your time and use some oil to drill holes in that thick of plate.
good luck and post pictures of the plate and bench when you are able.
also if you do bolt it you'll need to drill holes so take your time and use some oil to drill holes in that thick of plate.
good luck and post pictures of the plate and bench when you are able.
jakemac
Well-known member
Before you add the steel, seal the edges of the OSB with Beeswax. Rub it onto the edge, then use a hairdryer to melt it and let it soak into the board. This way, if you have a spill on the bench, the edges will be less likely to swell or separate. The OSB will last longer for you.
Packard V8
Well-known member
Hammering on casters is just bad science. It's easy enough to build a table with two legs having fixed wheels which are off the floor at rest, but with sliding wheelbarrow handles on the other end, enable even a heavy table to be moved on occasion.
jack vines
jack vines
fury9
Well-known member
$2 v notch trowel and some adhesive...
jakemac
Well-known member
A couple blocks of scrap 4x4 under the frame and you're good. But you're right, it's better if the legs go to the ground.
rick carpenter
Well-known member
You may get some ideas from this:
http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=241988
I'm very happy with this as I have a metal top bench that I can lightly pound on things. I suggest you don't adhere your plate so that it can be re-used later. Mine is screwed down with the flex-seal on the surfaces so that I don't get any bounce vibration/sound and it helps it "stick" to the substrate without gluing it down. I sealed the **** out of the mdf/plywood edges then painted them.
Maybe instead of drilling holes, see if a local welding shop can weld on some bolts or allthread studs so you can just bolt it through the osb. If you ever re-use it you won't have holes in it and you could easily cut & grind off the studs. I knew my little 1/8" plates weren't good for much else so I had no problem drilling and chamfering them
http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=241988
I'm very happy with this as I have a metal top bench that I can lightly pound on things. I suggest you don't adhere your plate so that it can be re-used later. Mine is screwed down with the flex-seal on the surfaces so that I don't get any bounce vibration/sound and it helps it "stick" to the substrate without gluing it down. I sealed the **** out of the mdf/plywood edges then painted them.
Maybe instead of drilling holes, see if a local welding shop can weld on some bolts or allthread studs so you can just bolt it through the osb. If you ever re-use it you won't have holes in it and you could easily cut & grind off the studs. I knew my little 1/8" plates weren't good for much else so I had no problem drilling and chamfering them
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I just bought a 4 X 8' fab table from a career welder. It was 2' X 2' X 1/4" and 1.5' x 2' steel squares tacked together just sitting on a 1" thick piece of 4' x 8' plywood. I forget how long he said he used it but the steel was just laying on top and held at the sides by a 1/8" steel skirt. He used set up wedges to level his projects as the surface was 2' x 2' squares and therefor not perfectly level.
I just bought it for the steel content and cut the table to bits to get it home but the point is the steel just sat on the top with only the angle iron frame holding it in place. There were only a few small black marks on the underlaying plywood where the top plates were tacked to the skirt at the edge.
I just bought it for the steel content and cut the table to bits to get it home but the point is the steel just sat on the top with only the angle iron frame holding it in place. There were only a few small black marks on the underlaying plywood where the top plates were tacked to the skirt at the edge.
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sberry
Banned
I would be ok with simply tossing the plate on it. Steel a bit bigger than the wood so you can clamp to it nicely would be great. Steel just is the ideal top and a guy can wipe up a spill.
sberry
Banned
I really like the dimensions and top thickness of the ones way above. For the kind of work a general mechanic faces this is ideal to walk around and reach across. There isn't anything about their basics would be a deal breaker to tailor a bit to specific needs as a guy went along.
In my case probably would have made them move pallet jack, maybe floor jack, not a deal breaker and the cab on the one I like along with the clamp bar.
They have overhang, square corner and straight edge to clamp to.
In my case probably would have made them move pallet jack, maybe floor jack, not a deal breaker and the cab on the one I like along with the clamp bar.
They have overhang, square corner and straight edge to clamp to.
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sberry
Banned
All this is giving me a bit of bench envy wanting to build a new one. Mostly due to changes and a few improvements to the top. I could simply cut around the old and put a new top on and give it another inch or so of overhang.
This plate isn't flat or even strong underneath but seen 1000's of jobs over it if one looks at all the nicks.
This plate isn't flat or even strong underneath but seen 1000's of jobs over it if one looks at all the nicks.
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And this is EXACTLY why I come to GJ to ask questions before doing. This, to me, is good advise and something I didn't think about when it came to the casters. Instead of putting the steel plate on my mobile bench I'm gonna throw it on top of a stationary bench I have that is currently attached to the wall. I need to modify it but it will be a way sturdier and stronger surface.
Thanks, Packard!!
Wamsutta
Well-known member
That's a brilliant idea for a moveable work bench. You should patent that and go into production.
rick carpenter
Well-known member
^That + rigging up something like a small furniture mover's dolly for the non-wheeled legs will save your back when moving it.
sberry
Banned
If the space is an issue would figure a design to get the most for the least again and a guy might not have to move it for every job. For one of these heavy plate schemes woukld tend to want heavy steel wheels straight on one end and might rig a catch for the floorjack on the other with solid legs to the floor with vise on corner. Pick it up half an inch and roll.
sberry
Banned
I like the one above in the center pic. A guy could play with moving the vise to the center especially if one is right handed, might not be so tempted to want to move it as much. The fundamental pieces are here and basic and a guy can tune it a long way from there.
You havnt made investment in things hard to get away from if you want to make a change.
You havnt made investment in things hard to get away from if you want to make a change.