steel workbench top

[jmiller_2308]

I'm building a couple of new benches for the garage addition and keep thinking about wrapping a solid wood core with stainless steel and wondered what folks thought about that and if anybody has any suggestions. I like the idea of a metal top for both durability as well as being able to clean up spills; especially oil and other automotive fluids.

I've seen other tops constructed with an MDF or even plywood core and then wrapped with metal. The question in my mind would be what gauge metal would be good for light to medium duty (no welding)? I expect such a top would gather some working patina over time and that the small dents and scars would add character. I see putting motorcycle engines on it but not v8s or large automatic transmissions so we are talking maybe a couple hundred pounds with a good weight spread. Any ideas what gauge might survive this best? I was looking at possibly 16 gauge but again, I have no clue as to how that might hold up.

I keep looking at used restaurant equipment as a possible donor for the top but the more I look the more it seems to make sense to just buy the steel and have a fabricator put a bend in it for a splash and another bend to cover the front. Material costs actually seems less than a used table but I'm not sure what the fabricator might cost.

Stainless was the material of choice because it seems the most rust resistant but as I look at the section of steel plate on my current bench it isn't like it is a rust bucket. Cold roll seems to go for significantly less than stainless and so I'm wondering if there might be other reasons to choose it over stainless.

 

[bad_idea]

I put a sheet of 1/8" (11 gauge) stainless on top of a couple benches at work. One of them has a 1" thick piece of plywood under it, the other has a piece of 1/4" steel under it. Both benches are holding up well to use by ex-sailors, they are the hardest on things. Don't know if 1/8" is needed, but it is what I had on hand at the time.

 

[sberry]

A little investment in a heavier steel plate would be my choice. About 12 ga or so, wont dent it.

 

[Falcon67]

Depends on how thick you get it. I had a sheet galvanized top made for one of my benches. It has a piece of 1" MDF under it. Works good, dents easily. I have a real steel bench with what looks like a 12 or 14 gauge top. It's sturdy but it "boomed" so I welded 1x2 steel tube cross beams under the top to stiffen it up. The top is pretty chewed up - bought well used - so I would like to cover it with some 1/8 sheet cold roll. Stainless is great but I'd not pay the price for it.

 

[soapii]

I made an all wood rolling table that is 30" x 60" then covered the top with 3/16" steel. I love it, very happy with the surface.....It's great for cleaning parts that are oily or greasy. Surface cleans right up with some gas etc.

--Joe

 

[HotwheelsYJ]

Maybe a little overkill but 3/4" plate is holding up great for me. It's 4' x 8' x 38" high

 

[jmiller_2308]

The stainless used on food prep tables appears to generaly be 16 gauge but working food prep is clearly not as demanding as a workbench might require. It sounds like I should plan for at least 12 gauge.

Thanks for all the feed back.

 

[Petey156]

Do you know the dimensions your looking for?

 

[Modern Jess]

Maybe a little overkill but 3/4" plate is holding up great for me. It's 4' x 8' x 38" high

Mother of God. Now that's a table!

 

[Cyberbear]

Don't forget to ground your metal work surface, in case you have a piece of equipment that is leaking a little electrical power. Most newer equipment today is well grounded but it only takes one to get a tingle.

 

[raf0419]

My long bench is as you described. Plywood with SS lab bench top that I sourced from scrap. Works well for me, but I should have welded the seams. Fastening/adhering to the plywood can be a challenge as well. I used a construction adhesive and recessed screws with fair results.

 

[AMCguy]

This bench top is 11 ga mild steel over 3/4'' MDF. You can see in the second picture what it was designed to stand up to.

 

[soapii]

Fastening/adhering to the plywood can be a challenge as well. I used a construction adhesive and recessed screws with fair results.

Same thing I did.

--Joe

 

[ColinHorgan]

I put a 1" thick beech top on my tool cabinet, then glued and screwed a 1/16 stainless plate to one side. Beech is hard for tear downs on auto stuff, I lacquered the beech so spills don't soak in. And I can flip it to the stainless top for bigger stuff. Plus side to stainless over ally chequer- easier to slide big heavy stuff around doesn't get caught, and if you are workin on it and you hit the stainless or slip with a chisel or sharp tool it won't burr the surface like aluminium would, leaving a nasty fella popping up waiting for you to come along with a rag to clean up only to tear your hand open!! Lesson learned there I can tell you!