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steelspan shop new post

HarashoPuck

Active member
Joined
Mar 31, 2008
Messages
41
Location
Pacific Northwest
You mentioned cooking in mid-july:

I have found my building to be about ten to twenty degrees cooler than the outside air. I have never found it stifling inside.

If you have air circulation, you will be fine.
 
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HarashoPuck

Active member
Joined
Mar 31, 2008
Messages
41
Location
Pacific Northwest
Actually, I do not have any vents in mine.

When I have the extension out in front of the door, I do plan to put a downdraft vent on either side of the door with screens to keep bugs and varments out.


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autoclassicnut

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Joined
Nov 24, 2007
Messages
1,382
Location
Montana
That's good to know as I don't want alot of dirt blowing in but still need to keep it cool. You can get a sunburn walking the length of my building on the outside because It does reflect it pretty good. But I don't think trees or shrubs would survive the summer they'd probably wilt...
 

HarashoPuck

Active member
Joined
Mar 31, 2008
Messages
41
Location
Pacific Northwest
Yes, up close to the building outside, one would need to turn around every few steps to be sure to get an even tan....LOL

I have one large tree that shades the building from the southwest for a little while in the afternoon, but other that that, it gets a beating in the afternoon sun and still is quite comfortable.

With the sunshine you get there. I would get a cheap solar panel from Shuck's or Harbor Fright, or Northern. Find a 12 volt battery and fan and create a passive air movement system.

I have considered this on my place.
 
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autoclassicnut

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Joined
Nov 24, 2007
Messages
1,382
Location
Montana
I built a small walk-in weather block for the door that faces the wind in the winter. I may put a small roof on the top for snow and rain etc. I had some short pieces of baseplates that were sent to me by mistake for longer ones,(free) I thought I'd make good use of them anyway.
 

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HarashoPuck

Active member
Joined
Mar 31, 2008
Messages
41
Location
Pacific Northwest
Those base plates ( wiggle plates) saved the day for me and my build.

I was not too comfortable with the groove and fill idea.

I like the idea of the wind break for the door. Makes perfect sense.
 
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autoclassicnut

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Joined
Nov 24, 2007
Messages
1,382
Location
Montana
I'm, going to make an enclosure on the opposite side of shop for the compressor enclosure, to make the compressor separate form the shop (noise level way down).Then just plumb it through the sidewall. The 4' x 4' slab is poured already, I'll post some pix as soon as I complete the enclosure.
 
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autoclassicnut

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Nov 24, 2007
Messages
1,382
Location
Montana
Well, here's the lighting that I'll be having in here...After pondering how to mount the light fixtures, I went back and picked up 3-6' long flat steel strapping and some light fixture chain w/hooks and cut the strapping with my cut off saw, at 9". This gave me 8 pieces per stick and bent them 90 degrees after the first hole. Fastened them to the existing bolt that's in the arch , and hung the chain equidistant from the strapping. It was easier than I thought it would be, got them all up in 3-1/2 hrs by myself. 2 rows of 5-8' lights, with t8 bulbs.
 

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autoclassicnut

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Nov 24, 2007
Messages
1,382
Location
Montana
Just an update... i had gravel mix brought in yesterday so I spent this morning spreading it around the shop area, sure makes it nicer.
 

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CaptainRay

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Joined
Nov 8, 2010
Messages
85
Location
Missouri
Removing damaged panels... i wish I could've finished in the summer...

Wow that's darn scary, I'm building a 30X50 SteelMaster S-Model Building 14.5 tall and it's late in the year, I'm north of Ellington, MO in the Ozarks. There's always a chance of snow here toward the end of December. In fact the long range forecast says snow about that time, flurries before. But they also say possible warmer than normal. Wind is always a threat but we don't get a lot of it, bad winds sometimes during T-storms mostly. Just got the cement poured two days ago, can start soon drilling anchor bolts holes next week. Using C-channel. Figure it will be close getting it up with just two people in two weeks. Do you suggest that I put the end wall in soon after starting? Also is it best to square the building off good and make sure it's not creeping then put in and tighten all the bolts to prevent the problem of structural failure while building. Or would that cause big problems? Or should I just wait till spring, but more wind and T-storms in the spring...
 

CaptainRay

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Joined
Nov 8, 2010
Messages
85
Location
Missouri
That's a great idea, I just got the cement done getting ready to put my building up soon. I was wondering how to get the building to move working mostly by myself. I'll have to owe you on that one, thanks... Ray
 
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autoclassicnut

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Nov 24, 2007
Messages
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Location
Montana
They are crazy if they really believe that you can skip and only put every third bolt in... I live in snow country and as you see, windy also... I used the base plate and scaffolds and anything I could to make it strong enough to withstand the weather, and still kicked my ****... I also built some plates the square shape with 4 holes to match up so I could use the come-a-longs....
I didn't put the angle iron up until the wind disaster... my bad... but yes it is on the sides and the top full length of the building, it adds twice the holding strength to the structure...
Good luck, if they were only as easy to put up as the commercials say they are.... After you are done you'll love it...I can send you any pics or info you desire as I took a ton of pics as i went along...
 
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robn69

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Joined
Nov 20, 2011
Messages
68
Any one have one of those buildings insaleated on this site?
 

Legwound

Member
Joined
Feb 26, 2014
Messages
21
Location
Southern Ontario
Any one have one of those buildings insaleated on this site?

X2 on the insulation question.

I'm considering different shop designs for a future shop in Nova Scotia. I'll need heat as well and am leaning towards trenched geothermal to supply both the house and shop.

cheers
 
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autoclassicnut

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Nov 24, 2007
Messages
1,382
Location
Montana
I put 2x6 lumber framing on the endwalls and the sidewalls up to the curve... with fiberglass insulation and sheetrock on the ends and plywood on the sides.
 
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autoclassicnut

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Joined
Nov 24, 2007
Messages
1,382
Location
Montana
Amazing build. Thanks for sharing the link! How do you like the Insulation? I am pretty sure I'm going to spray 2" foam.

I use a small pellet stove to heat this all last winter and I only have one layer of the insulation on the ceiling and I used one and a half tons all last winter.
with the current weather, I have only lit it once this year... crazy to be wearing t-shirts in Montana in November.:headscrat
 

B.C.Biker

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Joined
Dec 4, 2014
Messages
47
Location
Southern interior British Columbia
Great thread autoclassicnut. Thanks for sharing your build.
Just finished putting the last arch up on a 30x46x18 "X style". Finally. Sooo tired of bolts!
Now that you've made it through your first winter and we're into the hot season again are you still happy with your insulation choice? My end walls will be 2x6 on each end. Have some 4" rigid left over from the foundation that will go in there. The bottom 12 feet or so are on an angle but flat and am thinking doing the same as you.
Would you still recommend the same radiant barrier for the top half? Somewhere on the net (maybe on here?) I have seen thinner rigid foam bolted along the walls like paneling.
Like most I want to do it right the first time. Plus I've had enough of moving scaffolding around too.:)
 

Earp69

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Joined
Sep 20, 2016
Messages
859
Man kind of pellet stove are you running? I've ran 3 different kinda and can't keep from using less than a ton a month

Sent from my SM-N910V using Tapatalk
 
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autoclassicnut

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Joined
Nov 24, 2007
Messages
1,382
Location
Montana
it's a England Stove Works Model 25-PDVC/55 takes a 40 pound bag in the hopper. bought it on CList for $200 and put another $100 into the circuit board to get fan going.
 
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