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Stooge's Longer term car projects, Part 2

xtremek

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Hope you find the clutch fork soon. It'd be cool to see the driveline in the chassis.
 
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Kev442

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Sometimes you're the hammer, sometimes the nail.

Last project of the weekend was to pull a hood release cable off one car to use on another. Pop the grommet and pull it through the firewall, right?

Wrong. Grommet would not budge. Shine a light down the firewall and there's a lot of sealant. Remove washer bottle and scrape. Still won"t budge. Scrape more. A screw head appears. Dammit, it's a metal reinforced grommet. And the screwhead is pointing towards the fender.
Commence 2 hours of supporting the hood with a comealong, removing the hood hinge and removing half the fender bolts so that it can tilt out 4".
Remove philips head screw. Reassemble. Wheee, what fun! Remind me again why I like old cars?:wtf:
 
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Stooge

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Sometimes you're the hammer, .....

Remind me again why I like old cars?:wtf:

Took Monday off, so my long weekend;

Speaking of hammering, I was ordering some T- bolts to make the gas tank straps last week through McMaster Carr, and figured I would see what they sold for strips of metal for the straps themselves so I didn't have to try and find a big piece of thicker sheet metal. I picked 1/8 because I thought it would be good for a secure bolting in strap, but didn't really think about how thick 1/8 is.

a vise, a heavy hammer and some heat later, I had something relatively acceptable. i'll round of the open corners, and make it look a little more finished, and I need some weldnuts for the rear crossmember, since getting a wrench on top for a nut wouldn't be fun and I want to make life easier for me if I need to take drop the tank when the cars all together.

20200502_150237 by Dan Haas, on Flickr

20200502_150226 by Dan Haas, on Flickr

I was able to re-use the front stock mounting holes in the crossmember

20200502_132335 by Dan Haas, on Flickr

Took a chance on a set of 1937 Oldsmobile rear Delco Lovejoy shocks, and will fit both the inner frame pocket mounting and the rear sway bar mounting holes, ( the sway bar has 2 holes that mount to the arms on the shocks). One was a little frozen, but after some cleaning and filling it with oil, it started to hold pressure, and the other one was low on fluid but isn't building as much tension as the other, i'll have them rebuilt or have a go myself in rebuilding them

2020-05-05_07-31-16 by Dan Haas, on Flickr

I already had one, but the sway bar mounting holes were off, and i think was off a '40
20200503_174041 by Dan Haas, on Flickr

Screenshot_20200505-073857_Gallery by Dan Haas, on Flickr

Screenshot_20200505-073917_Gallery by Dan Haas, on Flickr

Yesterday, i figured i would venture out to the garage at home, and replace the starter in the white truck. It would spin but the bendix wasn't actuating out, and for however cheap an sbc starter is, i was just replacing it to get it done in one go. Looks like i need to add a few things to the list, but atleast its on jacks so its a little more appealing to go work on. im assuming the transmission pan gasket dried out, and spilled trans fluid when it was moved, but i figure while im under there, I'm going to replace the tail shaft seal, fuel filter, plugs, etc. i did get the starter replaced atleast, but i need to re-terminal the ground since the stud was just spinning so i snipped it off. also need new front sway bar links, (bushings are dried out) so i'll need to figure out what i used for those

2020-05-05_07-03-56 by Dan Haas, on Flickr

20200504_114955 by Dan Haas, on Flickr

Also ended up with a rapid reel for the shop, though it seems to have an intermittent leak from the swivel, so im guessing theres an O ring in there or something that needs replacing but i haven't looked into it yet

20200502_151638 by Dan Haas, on Flickr

Someone was asking me about making a tabletop easel for them, so I made myself one first out of some scrap to see what I liked/ what I didn't. I like it, needs a brace in the back if you want to lean on it, and I might make it adjustable in height for her.

20200502_145102 by Dan Haas, on Flickr

20200502_145249 by Dan Haas, on Flickr
 

WoodsTruck

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If you had a brake, could you form a down lip on the back and an up lip on the front, long "Z" so to speak for rigidity and simplicity?

Loving the progress.
 

xtremek

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Progress on the truck, cool. I think I'll make similar progress on the F-150 tonight, get it up in the air so I can work on it tomorrow night.
 

Kev442

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Wow, 1/8" gas tank straps. And they turned out beautifully. Factory ones are barely more than sheet metal these days.

You have definitely been the hammer. Welp, back to being a nail.
 
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Stooge

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If you had a brake, could you form a down lip on the back and an up lip on the front, long "Z" so to speak for rigidity and simplicity?

Loving the progress.

I hadn't thought of that, maybe framing the outside with a bead roll, or adding some accent lines that protrude out the back could do the trick as well

Progress on the truck, cool. I think I'll make similar progress on the F-150 tonight, get it up in the air so I can work on it tomorrow night.

Theres really something that really just ***** the wind out of my sails when Im going to have to get that truck up on jackstands. The battery being low and not being enough juice to kick the compressors on, and trying to get an angle to get the jack under there, its just a pain, so I figure while its on stands, I might as well just do a few things. just ordered the new transmission gasket and filter, fuel filter, plugs and trans fluid from the parts store, i'll pick it up after work. I already had the new tailshaft/ driveshaft input seal from my last summit order, and I just threw that in. While I was making dinner last night, I saw the sway bar end links that came with the Edsel front end kit that were wrong for the edsel, but look like just what I need to replace the truck ones, so I'll give those a try instead of just letting them sit and collect dust.


Wow, 1/8" gas tank straps. And they turned out beautifully. Factory ones are barely more than sheet metal these days.

You have definitely been the hammer. Welp, back to being a nail.

I've obviously dealt with heavier metal than just sheet metal, but I guess it had been awhile since handling 1/8, (I do a lot more with 3/16 which just sounds a lot thicker :lol_hitti) and I forgot how thick it is. I wanted it a little on the thick side since its going to be bolting in and I didn't want to have to worry about it too much, but I definitely could have gone a little thinner. Better to be overkill though, especially for holding in a gas tank. ordered a bag of 3/8-16 weldnuts for the rear crossmember, i needed 2 and got 50, but for such a common size, they'll be good to have on hand, so i might try and get that done tonight, or atleast this weekend so i can say that atleast something is done. Planning on ordering the new rear engine mounts next week, theyre a little spendy, ($360ish) and I don't want to get into the habit of constantly throwing money at that car, just a little at a time so it hurts less :thumbup:
 

xtremek

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Are you going to put a remote battery connection so this doesn't become an issue again. Put a hook up like they do for wreckers using Anderson connectors. Pull one set of clamp ends off of a set jumper cables and put on the Anderson's. I'm going to do that to the F-150, the Ugly Beast (dump truck), and the Big Beast('52 COE).
 
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Stooge

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Are you going to put a remote battery connection so this doesn't become an issue again. Put a hook up like they do for wreckers using Anderson connectors. Pull one set of clamp ends off of a set jumper cables and put on the Anderson's. I'm going to do that to the F-150, the Ugly Beast (dump truck), and the Big Beast('52 COE).

Remote terminals wouldn't really do me much good, and I couldn't really get the battery too much closer, I was just being impatient and didn't feel like waiting for the charger to give the battery enough juice to kick the compressors on, and the accuair needs certain voltage to run the valves , since it will populate an 'error message' on the remote by the buttons flashing red when there's not enough to power it correctly. My battery is mounted on the frame at the end of/under the bed, so when I open the tailgate, its right there, just have to reach a few inches. In the buick, the battery mounts under the floor, under the front passenger side seat, but im going to relocate it to the trunk somewhere so if I need to get to the battery, I don't have to take the seat out, or however your expected to get to it

20150919_124746 by Dan Haas, on Flickr

20150919_124740 by Dan Haas, on Flickr

2020-05-07_12-49-25 by Dan Haas, on Flickr
 

Kev442

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Wow, another month flew right by. I can hardly wait to see what you've accomplished.
Or, maybe you met a gal and ain't done ****. :)
 

Kev442

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Hit a minor milestone with mine this weekend. Took advantage of the cool weather to finish removing the undercoat with the heat gun. Now onto wire wheeling it so I can start more metal replacement.
 

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Stooge

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Whoops, i didnt see that other post, i havent been on here alot lately (i think some of the guys are getting cabin fever :lol_hitti) i wish i could say i was getting alot done, but its alot of waiting on parts, putting some money aside for for some expensive parts and a few surprise expensive parts, ( like the surprise rear engine mounts that i thought i had but only had part of it, for $400!) and those are all holding up putting the rear suspension back together, (waiting on the specific 1937 bump stops to fit the axle bracket) and the motor mounts are holding up putting the engine in place, and setting up the fuel and brake lines, starting the exhaust and getting the body back on to finish sheet metal work and start bodywork.

i did finish the gas tank mounting, made the 2nd strap, and while i have been trying to avoid doing much welding to the frame, i conceded and filled the stock rear strap slots and used some weldnuts to make servicing it easier since everything can be done from underneath, no top nut to hold, keep tools needed to a minimum. I want to take this on some road trips when its done, and am trying to keep in mind what will make life easier when im on the side of the road, a few states away from home.

20200510_135601 by Dan Haas, on Flickr

20200510_134310 by Dan Haas, on Flickr

20200510_141317 by Dan Haas, on Flickr

20200510_141323 by Dan Haas, on Flickr

Pulled the rear spring packs out to inspect. i was planning on replacing them but they are in good shape, and for the cost ($700ish), i'll reuse them for the time being and if when the cars out driving, they need to be replaced, i'll do it then. Everything wire wheeled, ground, and "polished" with flap discs, also softened up/ rounded the ends to keep them sliding, and after i painted them , i coated the contacting surfaces with a graphite paste lubricant. Rather than a shackle and hanger, the Buick has shackles on both sides for ride comfort, the leaf spring eyes are threaded and the bolt holding them to the shackles greasing it through a hole and a zerk fitting on the bolt head

20200519_175330 by Dan Haas, on Flickr

20200519_190744 by Dan Haas, on Flickr

20200523_124729 by Dan Haas, on Flickr

20200516_132827 by Dan Haas, on Flickr

20200516_132847 by Dan Haas, on Flickr

20200516_132855 by Dan Haas, on Flickr

20200521_193450 by Dan Haas, on Flickr

20200521_195130 by Dan Haas, on Flickr

20200523_135944 by Dan Haas, on Flickr

Currently waiting on new axle bumpstops to put the rear back together since the bumpstop bracket is held in place by the Ubolts and id rather just do it once. I'll pull apart the rear end when the suspension is back in place, right now i cant move the frame since its on jackstands and i want it back on wheel dollies.

$80 for these things!
20200614_122535 by Dan Haas, on Flickr

20200607_105237 by Dan Haas, on Flickr

the truck got a little attention, new starter, new transmission filter and gasket, new plugs, new fuel filter, though i still need to pick up transmission fluid to refill it, and i want to drain the gas tank, before starting it.

I only replaced the filter because i was in there replacing the gasket, it didnt really need it i dont think, but it was a rebuilt transmission so it was good to check it out. Looked good and didnt see any bits on the magnet. i will have to see if greasing the small speedometer cable that attaches to the adjustable torque converter lock up will read now since i suspect/ hope that was why it wasnt working before.

20200522_115809 by Dan Haas, on Flickr

My catch pan had a crack in the corner of it so i ended up taking a bath/ was laying in transmission fluid but atleast there was cardboard down to make cleaning it up a little easier

20200522_120744 by Dan Haas, on Flickr

and back off the jackstands for the time being

20200522_140625 by Dan Haas, on Flickr

a little bit of Edsel work, the radiator support was pretty trashed, but we happened upon someone with a whole new old stock front support set up, 3 pieces including the radiator support, a piece that connects the radiator support to the front sheetmetal and bracketry, and an upper piece that attaches to the top of the front grille surround sheetmetal, hood bracket so the whole front end is getting blown apart and fighting every step of the way

20200614_170958 by Dan Haas, on Flickr

We really lucked out, it was a really good deal for them in relation to how much time they will save me and a lot of headache trying to repair the paper thin old stuff

20200614_180011 by Dan Haas, on Flickr

20200614_175814 by Dan Haas, on Flickr

Easily 90% of the bolts i've come across on this car resemble this one

20200614_172247 by Dan Haas, on Flickr

20200614_180000 by Dan Haas, on Flickr

in other news, i've been moonlighting for our engineering group making repairs and cables

2020-06-15_07-46-07 by Dan Haas, on Flickr

2020-06-15_07-46-49 by Dan Haas, on Flickr

Was also asked by someone if i could do a cartoon/ paint for someone's nieces, 1 likes giraffes, the other likes tigers. most of my cartoons are weird and creepy, so i scaled back and tried to make it more cutesy than creepy

Cut out a big funny shaped piece of aluminum, i think its 21" at the widest, 15" at its tallest

2020-06-15_07-41-31 by Dan Haas, on Flickr

20200606_171822 by Dan Haas, on Flickr

20200606_171835 by Dan Haas, on Flickr

confetti and stuff added so it wasnt just a black panel

20200610_054622 by Dan Haas, on Flickr

And while i was cutting the aluminum, i cut an extra piece and made a little bent stand-up, and made a kitchen mascot to look disappointed in things

20200523_174852 by Dan Haas, on Flickr
 
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Kev442

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Boy, when they said that gas tank was a good fit, they weren't kidding. That looks sweet.
As per usual " I haven't done much", then shows about 3 months of work for most people, lol.

I still can't believe the condition of the Buicks frame vs the body, those Edsel bolts are what I would expect the suspension on the Buick to resemble. It is sure what I've been dealing with on my rotbucket, top and bottom. Of course, I was finally able to get a much cleaner parts car to supply a frame and all those annoying bits and pieces for a lump sum $600 (plus a trip to ND to get it).

Hopefully you can wrap up the truck by July and take it for a cruise, I too tend to wrench more than I drive, but ya gotta enjoy them once in awhile to remind yourself why you do it.
I finally completed a valve cover gasket job for the 2nd time since last year (don't buy rubber gaskets when the factory ones were cork), I might actually be able to take the convertible for a cruise one of these days. Seems like its raining, 60 degrees or 85 degrees all the time.

I'm not sure if the kids will like the art, but the parents will. As for your kitchen monitor, I can't wait for the 3 am trip to get something to drink, and that guy making you pee yourself in the dark!:)
 

xtremek

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I agree with Kev, it looks like you've been hard at work. Good snag on the Edsel parts. Glad to see the truck is almost ready for the road, and it sounds like the Buick is making steady progress.
 
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Stooge

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A little bit of an update, alot of de-rusting and painting stuff, and having to start crack open the piggy bank on a few things, but fortunately there arent too many of those instances yet

1 by Dan Haas, on Flickr

3 by Dan Haas, on Flickr


4 by Dan Haas, on Flickr

5 by Dan Haas, on Flickr

7 by Dan Haas, on Flickr

8 by Dan Haas, on Flickr

I needed to figure out a master cylinder configuration and wanted to use the transmission mounted pedals, so i came up with this as i also wanted an off the shelf master cylinder. Drum/drum 1" master cylinder with the ports facing outward toward the frame, from a late 60s/early 70s jeep cj5. with it mounted in the car, my math was off by a little, and i'll need to move it forward about 1/2" for the rear outlet to clear part of the transmission crossmember/ frame mount area, or find some adjustment somewhere else, but not a big deal, or i could remake it as some parts arent as pretty as i would have liked. Made with 3/16 plate and the stock pedal and clevis linkage.

9 by Dan Haas, on Flickr

10 by Dan Haas, on Flickr

And most importantly, a buddy came over saturday and this car finally got an engine in it for the first time in what im guessing, has been many decades. Happy to say that the later front engine mount i cut up worked perfectly, i was pretty nervous it was going to be undersized or really far off and id have to come up with a new plan, but couldnt have asked for a better fit.

13 by Dan Haas, on Flickr

14 by Dan Haas, on Flickr

16 by Dan Haas, on Flickr

17 by Dan Haas, on Flickr

18 by Dan Haas, on Flickr

the rubber isolator started to twist as it was bolted in, i'll end up cutting some better fitting ones with sleeves, but this was good enough to prove if it was going to work or not

15 by Dan Haas, on Flickr
 

Kev442

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My gawd. That frame looks like a go kart with all that engine on it. No wonder they could go 100+ mph.
Awesome progress!
 
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Stooge

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Its all going to come out at sone point to get all cleaned up. the transmission case is empty, the flywheel, clutch arent on, this was just to see if my mix bag of parts would reasonably fit, and too start figuring out an exhaust, run some lines and do most of the stuff thats going to be more frustrating to do when the body is on. I also emailed Wheelsmith about ordering new steel wheels for it. not really a priority, but the wheels on it currently are from a '48+ buick and are 1.5" wider and stick out too far, and contact the rear outer fenders. when the body goes back on, its going to be all bodywork until paint and i dont want the wheel contact to cause issues.

With all of the weight being added to the chassis, i measured at the bottom lip of the front crossmember and the frame where the bellhousing mounts for a before and after to see how much it came down with the 1000i'sh pound engine and transmission installed....it lowered 3/4" :lol:
 
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Kev442

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Hmmm, why is my frame to engine ratio so different? :sad:
 

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Kev442

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Actually, I'm pretty happy to be able to take that picture. 4 months ago there was wood laid across the frame and an entire auto interior was sitting on it. Interior is installed where it belongs and I can start working on the fuel and brake lines.

I painted my floorboards. Started with flat paint. I really liked it but decided it would get dust stuck to it and then look bad. Tried semi gloss. Ugh. every defect was magnified by the shininess. Settled on satin. Once dusty will be about right.

Tore down the brakes to install a working emergency cable (yay parts cars!) and the wheel cylinder. Brake pads were over 50% but decided to order new anyway.
 

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Stooge

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Hmmm, why is my frame to engine ratio so different? :sad:

:lol: id guess it could be related to this comparison picture from the day i brought the engine home and its sitting next to a 327 sbc . Good progress on the chassis, sometimes just letting things become a shelf for other parts, really ***** the wind out of the sails motivation wise! "eugh, before i can even start doing something, i gotta clean all this **** off of it first!"

2020-08-03_08-16-02 by Dan Haas, on Flickr

Some preliminary exhaust stuff is showing up today to get an idea of what will work, so then i can order the rest. i have a long weekend coming up this weekend, so maybe i'll have something to show for it afterwards. Also managed to find a front passenger backing plate still assembled for cheap as i was missing that one as a result of when someone was parting this car out.

20200801_150650 by Dan Haas, on Flickr

And some inspiration pictures for the new exhaust, though not a supercharged Duesenberg :(

Screenshot_20200801-171351_Gallery by Dan Haas, on Flickr

Screenshot_20200801-171335_Gallery by Dan Haas, on Flickr

And unrelated, a friend sent me some photos she took along with some other stuff, and figured i would try making a picture frame out of some scrap last night as a lazy sunday evening project. Wasnt sure if it was going to come out lame or not, but i kind of like it. i'll probably hit it with a torch to discolor the pieces a bit, then some rattle can clear to keep it from rusting and make it a little darker and shiny.
A bunch of strips from trimming panels i've made and end up in the scrap corner, snipped into small points and tacked on

20200801_201243 by Dan Haas, on Flickr

i didnt bother cleaning off the dykem and they are all very sharp

20200802_071806 by Dan Haas, on Flickr

2020-08-03_08-10-36 by Dan Haas, on Flickr
 

Kev442

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I won't even do metal work during shorts and T shirt season due to excessive blood loss. I can't even imagine living in the same house as that picture frame.:scared:
 

Kev442

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Finished making the tubing straightener and tried it out. The return line is great.
I knew the larger fuel line wouldn't turn out too well as the rollers were barely able to hold it. So I tried the hole in a wood block trick, still kinda meh.
The wavy parts going through the block get hot! I also about pulled a chest muscle pushing and yanking.
Straightening brake lines are going to be a breeze with this thing
 

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Stooge

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Love the picture frame!

Hey thanks! i wasnt sure if it was going to be lame or not, but it came out pretty cool i think!

Finished making the tubing straightener and tried it out. The return line is great.
I knew the larger fuel line wouldn't turn out too well as the rollers were barely able to hold it. So I tried the hole in a wood block trick, still kinda meh.
The wavy parts going through the block get hot! I also about pulled a chest muscle pushing and yanking.
Straightening brake lines are going to be a breeze with this thing

I was thinking of this the other day, since i'd like to get the fuel pump mounted and lines run with the body off and now that engine is in place, have a better idea of where to route to . Planning on using this style pump, a a low pressure carter that runs on 6v https://www.summitracing.com/parts/crt-p4259 but will need to find a regulator that is good for low pressure and doesnt look too out of place. i'll probably just go with a block of wood and straightening by hand, there really arent many straight runs needed with the x frame, and i dont want to bury it on the inside of the frame incase there is a need to get to it for some reason.
Spent some money on a bunch of exhaust stuff to get me started, and with a 4 day weekend starting tomorrow, maybe i'll have something to show for it! Also bought a new welding helmet, Miller digital elite. My current Hobart isnt working great, and has been really hard to see much of anything while welding, and i've been been having to guess where im going/ stopping when doing anything other than a quick tack. the lens assembly has also started just popping out randomly. I think it was $80-90, atleast 8yrs ago, so im fine with replacing it. Since the new exhaust header will be visible, i want to try and make it look nice and i have to be able to see. I'll keep hobart as a back up in case i have a visitor or something
 
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Stooge

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I couldn't see welding either. New glasses without transition. Totally amazing difference

i got the new helmet in friday, and gave it a whirl and i have to say im pretty irritated with myself for putting up with/ not realizing how poor the visibility was in my old one, this one is just miles ahead for how much i can see what im doing again. I'll keep the old one around in case i have visitors or something, but i think im going to be pretty happy with the new one.

Still pretty rough and alot of fit and finish to do before anything is permanent, but i wanted to get the big pieces cut to get the exhaust moving. I've done alot of research/ reading/ finding old pictures, etc for ideas on what will work, work best, and work in the space i have,(and since i dont have the maths for a real conclusion :dunno:), finally decided to just try and make something that seemed like it would flow with minimal turbulence, (and look cool) and came up with this. a bunch of 1.5" tubing, a cut down megaphone made for a nice transition to a main tube, and a box of assorted bends to come up with something.

1 by Dan Haas, on Flickr

2 by Dan Haas, on Flickr

Aside from a few tacks on the main tube, all of runners are just held in place with magnets and still need to be trimmed to fit so it doesnt look as fitted as it will be

3 by Dan Haas, on Flickr

4 by Dan Haas, on Flickr

5 by Dan Haas, on Flickr

6 by Dan Haas, on Flickr

I had to keep the last tube straight down to clear the bellhousing/ mount which i already knew and had planned on. i'll add another bend to tuck it under the bellhousing and put a coupling there to connect to the rest of the exhaust, which will be a simple 2.5" all the way to the back, with a Porter steel pack

7 by Dan Haas, on Flickr

Also, one of the last puzzle pieces, found a slightly later NOS clutch fork for a '39, but the important side fits how it should with the pivot clip, and even came with new pivot balls that i didnt have. I'll end up cutting it and adding about an inch to it, as its slightly too short to reach the pedal linkage, but it was cheap and im pretty happy with it

8 by Dan Haas, on Flickr

9 by Dan Haas, on Flickr

10 by Dan Haas, on Flickr
 

xtremek

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For your application, you're not looking for huge gains, so anything that flows better will be sufficient. If you were really after high performance, you'd need to know what rpm you wanted your peak to be at, then you'd decide if you wanted a merged or tri-wye style header. That would give you the proper primary/secondary diameters and lengths, and the runners would be the same tuned lengths.
 

Kev442

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I am really curious what the harmonics on the exhaust will be with them kinda in pairs.
Firing order will have more to do with it methinks.
 

Kev442

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Used my 4 day weekend to make the move and put the body above the frame. Couldn't stand the cramped working space and needed it off the rotisserie to get at the tail panel anyway. Propped up on 2x4 and 2x6s leaves plenty of space and I can sit on my stool to do bodywork. 5' all around it now.:)
 

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Stooge

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Looks like we're up to similar things Kev, im hoping to have the body back on the frame this week, if i can get my **** together and stop dragging my feet.
New garage door at home, means getting the truck and the edsel moving. Truck theoretically should have started up, but i was replacing the output shaft seal for the driveshaft and my method of tapping it in using a big socket and a mallet, buggered it. i grabbed a new seal, (actually i was looking for something else in a seldom used tool box and found a new one in the package) but i havent gotten out there to pop it in yet. (I cant start it until the new seal is in, transmission fluid is replaced)
20200828_142254 by Dan Haas, on Flickr

I need to find my battery tender for this thing

20200828_193108 by Dan Haas, on Flickr

Edsel driver side front suspension was blown apart, so i did some cleaning, wire wheeling and some paint and got that to be a roller. We're trying to track down a front disc brake kit for it, but we havent nailed down one that will definitely fit, and where it's not my money, i want to be really sure before i go spending someone's decent amount of money.

20200118_120431 by Dan Haas, on Flickr

20200118_171903 by Dan Haas, on Flickr

20200821_112153 by Dan Haas, on Flickr

Uncovered some original yellow paint on the steering box. Factory engine was yellow, so i guess some other stuff was yellow. Im pushing for getting the 460 painted to sort of match the factory set up with yellow engine, white valve covers and air cleaner, but with tidied up wiring and stuff. Im getting pretty excited about this car lately!

20200821_110725 by Dan Haas, on Flickr

20200413_192008 by Dan Haas, on Flickr

Quicky spray bomb

20200821_113411 by Dan Haas, on Flickr

All of the stock stuff cleaned up surprisingly nice. New balljoints and tie rods, but we need to order some bushings, sleeves, hardware, etc.

20200821_160800 by Dan Haas, on Flickr

i just threw the brake drum back on to make it a roller for the time being

20200828_141547 by Dan Haas, on Flickr

I uncovered the cool back tailgate badge that was covered in a sheet of plastic since we brought it back from Iowa. Its pretty solid back there, some rot in the bottom sill under the tailgate and the bottom of it, but nothing crazy. I dont know how far he wants to go in fixing the body, or just address the problem areas and make it drive, (what i think we should do). It's mostly the floors and rockers, but realistically, alot of the body needs alot of attention if we were ever going to fully repaint it.

20200828_142145 by Dan Haas, on Flickr

Since i want to get the body back on the '37, im trying to do all the stuff that will be a pain to do when the body is back on. Last big thing has been making an exhaust for it. Ordered a bunch of bends for some late model trucks so it didnt look as aftermarket'y and some flanges, hangers, etc from Summit, and a new Porter steel pack muffler.

20200827_191306 by Dan Haas, on Flickr

From the homemade manifold

20200815_160944 by Dan Haas, on Flickr

I dont know where this bracket came from but i had a box of random hangers but that used the wide slotted brackets, so i cut the rivets off of it and replaced the rubber with a universal one. Im trying to keep it real simple on this car and simple means i dont feel bad about not getting some trick exhaust mounts! The whole "system" bolts together in 2 pieces after the manifold, and is pretty simple to drop down if the need should ever arise.

20200908_203932 by Dan Haas, on Flickr

For the hanger after the muffler, i used a stock exhaust bracket, but cut out the rivet'ed in rubbery stuff, and mounted another universal hanger to it, and made things a little easier, though i did move it and had to drill new holes in the frame and the bracket.

20200908_204013 by Dan Haas, on Flickr

theres no exhaust tip yet, im going to wait until the body's on to figure out how i want it to exit from under the car/ where the bumper will sit.

20200908_203952 by Dan Haas, on Flickr

Also wanted to get the fuel pump mounting figured out. i would have like to move it to the frame rather than the gas tank crossmember because of its proximity to the rear axle, but in reality theres plenty of clearance,and with how strong the suspension is in this, i dont see there being a big range of articulation, (with the 1000lbs of engine and transmission, the suspension compressed barely 3/4") plus it is a good place for the fuel pump to be in relation to the tank. The inner part of the frame around there is factory boxed in and set up kind of funny, and also the rear sway bar and shock arms occupy the space above the rear end on the frame. i'll run fuel lines this week to atleast where the front of the body stops since that will be easier to do with the body off.

New Carter 6 volt pump arrived yesterday, had to trim the bracket to fit the crossmember, but it worked out pretty good

20200908_195937 by Dan Haas, on Flickr

20200908_200550 by Dan Haas, on Flickr

20200908_203357 by Dan Haas, on Flickr

20200908_204125 by Dan Haas, on Flickr

Planning on getting the bottom side of the floor painted friday,i hope then the body can go back on the frame this weekend i hope. Honestly probably just going to roll on tractor paint. My spray gun that will spray upside down doesnt like the thick stuff, and the one that will spray the thick stuff, doesnt work well spraying upside down, and rolling it on will put it on thick and give it a slight undercoat texture and will be and quick.

And some cars to look at,
my friend tom's '38 ford stopped by sunday

20200906_103816 by Dan Haas, on Flickr

and possibly the most American picture i've ever taken!

20200823_153844 by Dan Haas, on Flickr

20200823_153835 by Dan Haas, on Flickr
 
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Kev442

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Jan 15, 2009
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A lot busier than me, that's for sure.
Making the Edsel a roller again is kinda neat but I always hated having to do that when I was younger with a one stall garage. Much nicer to just make a big mess and leave it lie for months.:)
Although sometimes I forget tools in them too.
 
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Stooge

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Mar 24, 2013
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A full weekend of getting stuff ready to get the body back on. Fuel lines are run, 1 piece hardline to take up the majority of the length, with a piece of flex on either side coming from the pump, and at the front, snaking through the joint where the I beam x-member meets the front boxed frame section, ( i did make a few hardline pieces trying to figure out how to snake it through, but with the motor mounts going through the frame right there, it wasnt going to be pretty or very accessible in the future). Held in place with serrated/ splined 1/4-20 rivnuts and line clamps.

20200906_135831 by Dan Haas, on Flickr

spent a few hrs sort of kneeling under the body wire wheeling/ sanding/ grinding the underside of the floor so i could paint it. i had replaced alot of the floor so it wasnt too bad, but it wasnt all that fun either, especially with such a big car. Sprayed with the same tractor enamel that i used on the chassis. I used my thick primer gun and it was a pain trying to spray up with it, so i might see if i can find an adapter for the DeKups system that i have for my regular paint gun.

20200913_104124 by Dan Haas, on Flickr

A buddy was coming by around noon to give me a hand, so to kill some time, i sanded down the firewall and sprayed some primer on it since the engine would be in the way. Im sure there are some extra holes for stuff i wont be using, but i didnt want the firewall to it to look too smooth and updated. if there are any real big unused holes, i'll get some rubber plugs for them.

20200913_115335 by Dan Haas, on Flickr

Pulled the back wheels off and put them on the dollies to fit under the stands since the tires dont clear it them. Used an engine hoist with some straps and a buddy came by to give me a hand to move everything around

20200913_134500 by Dan Haas, on Flickr

Still need to some some aligning before all of the bolts will go in, and i need to drill 2 new holes for the rear most mounts in the trunk floor that i remade, and 2 right behind the door sills. I want to try and make some countersunk interior body mount holes to make it look right, maybe something with the beadroller, or if there is a press/ dimple die type thing thing. i havent really looked into it yet. ...Also notice i put the running board brackets back on to get locate the fuel lines , and coincidentally have several big cuts on both my legs :dunno:

20200913_161157 by Dan Haas, on Flickr

20200913_160808 by Dan Haas, on Flickr
 
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Kev442

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Jan 15, 2009
Messages
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Location
Wi
Damn, you covered some territory this past week. Damn, thats a big motor.:bounce:

I'm only 2 or 3 years away from where you are, I'm just starting bodywork. And motor/transmission mount fab. And...:(
 
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