Stooge's Longer term car projects, Part 2

[BORING HOP YARD]

My vote is black, the hub caps are cool as well.

 

[driftpin]

Pics & copy from the CL WI ad for the '36 Olds project Kev442 posted the link to.

1936 Oldsmobile 3-Window Coupe
Mustang II Front End
1969 Camaro 12-bolt 331 POSI
Power Break System
Gas Tank and Gas Line
Steering System
Power Windows in Doors
1970 Chevy Tilt Wheel Column
Have clear title
$7500
Located in Sparta WI area
Call: 608 487 6589

 

[Chateau Slate 66]

Obviously not coupes, but black tires really have the look i like

Here's the answer to your question on which tires to get.

 

[xtremek]

I'm a super wide whites kind of guy for something of this vintage. It makes the car look more elegant taking the time period you're shooting for into effect, and the width of the sidewall. That being said, it's not my car, so ignore me

 

[Kev442]

I agree that we have been "conditioned" to expect whitewalls on a car of this vintage. But this is a sport coupe, a "rebel" model if you will, so blackwalls will help with that image I would think.
The neat part is, if you don't like the tires, all you need to do is this:

 

[Kev442]

Damn. Me want.
https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/815122089065197/?ref=search&referral_code=undefined

 

[Monza Harry]

Damn. Me want!
https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/815122089065197/?ref=search&referral_code=undefined

YES! Me Understand! Is that a "Paxton" SC? That alone makes me want it! Harry

 

[Kev442]

Been trying to sell it as is for a long time, lol.
The speed holes in the frame are awesome.

https://barnfinds.com/50-percent-restored-1937-graham-supercharged-sedan/

 

[Stooge]

i missed the facebook marketplace car, it just says unavailable, but that Graham is pretty cool! I would guess the supercharger on the Graham is maybe a McCulloch? i very very briefly thought about it when i found a close to new old stock one for sale, but that definitely seemed like it would get spendy quick trying to build up a straight 8 to handle it, and isnt what im really looking for with that car.

Still havent ordered wheels or tires yet, i might hold off since they will just kind of get in the way and will be at risk of getting overspray or something on them, along with i still havent made my mind up yet. I remember reading a quip somewhere that said " 90% of cars came with blackwalls from the factory, 90% of restorations get whitewalls". i like them both so i dont think either will look bad, but im also pretty bad at keeping my cars clean these days so maybe i'll get whatever looks better when theyre dirty

another indecisive vote
FB_IMG_1611453184150 by Dan Haas, on Flickr

FB_IMG_1611453189794 by Dan Haas, on Flickr

Since it was cold out this weekend and my home garage doesnt have heat, i thought it was a good time to spend a few hrs in there and start switching the white truck over to coilovers. Im retaining the Porterbuilt "Dropmember" aftermarket front crossmember, rack and pinion steering, sway bar and tubular control arms, but instead of an airbag, it will be a coilover in place. This was all assembled when there wasnt an engine, wiring, fuel or brake lines, or any of the front sheet metal in place so it was a bit of a pain to take it out with everything that was added afterwards. Theres 3 pieces that sort of sandwich the inner frame brace, and upper control arm mounts/ bag bracket and the crossmember support, and i just wanted to remove the outer plate so i didnt have to pull the engine. Wasnt as bad as i thought it would be, reassembly was worse than pulling it apart, having to tape all of the nuts and washers to a wrench and fish them through, but it worked. i still need to do the driver side, i have the plate out, but it needs the bag bracket cut off and the upper mount welded in. The rears will use the shock mounts i made for when it had air suspension, though i might shorten the lower mounts a bit.

20210124_094949 by Dan Haas, on Flickr

Bag bracket and upper control arm mount in stock form. the bag section got cut off and i made some tabs out of 2x2, 3/16 square tubing. originally i had bought some coilover mounts from summit when i ordered the coilover, but when i got them, they seemed a little thin, so i used the same idea, but in 3/16 like the rest of the crossmember.

20210124_152812 by Dan Haas, on Flickr

2021-01-25_09-45-10 by Dan Haas, on Flickr

not pictured is a big 5/8" plug weld in the center of the bracket for a little extra confidence.

20210123_142412 by Dan Haas, on Flickr

20210124_112231 by Dan Haas, on Flickr

20210124_112255 by Dan Haas, on Flickr

The lower mounts will bolt into the control arms, both so that its non permanent in case i want to change something in the future, and so i can add a spacer if need be. it looks kind of funny sitting in the lower arm with alot of angle to it because the sway bar is holding up the lower arm so its not drooping down enough, but i didnt have anything handy to cut the bent sway bar end link bolt off.

Also finally set up and started playing a Lincoln Square Wave i got a while back. Seems like it uses a semi obsolete torch, so i bought a little rebuild kit for it. i still might end up replacing it, but i figured for $40, i will see how it is before i get a new one... plus i was a little confused by the Dinse connectors and what i needed for the new torch, but i believe i need a Dinse 50 1/2" gas through connector, if anyone wants to verify The LA-9 torch that came with the machine seems to be a series 9, 150 amp. i was looking at this one as it seems the 17 series will interchange, but i held off https://store.cyberweld.com/wewptigtopaw1.html
No real goals for Tig welding other than learning something new, and have a few more capabilities. I've done a little bit of it in the past, but not enough to be competent in it. Ideally, i would like to weld up the new header and intake for the Buick, but i have no objections to mig welding it.

20210118_190814 by Dan Haas, on Flickr

20210118_190524 by Dan Haas, on Flickr

20210118_190458 by Dan Haas, on Flickr

20210118_192452 by Dan Haas, on Flickr

 

[xtremek]

When you figure out your TIG, you can drop on by with the white truck and help me figure out my new TIG.

 

[Kev442]

FB ad and the other are the same car 2 years apart. A little lite reading makes me think Graham designed and built the supercharger in house. They put it on their 8 for the first two years, then adapted it to the 6 when they discontinued the 8. 100 HP from a flathead 6 is pretty cool. Their hood design is cool too (functional portholes).

I hope a MA cold garage is a lot warmer than a WI cold garage! I can actually be running some heat in my garage this time of year and not have the ice on the floor by the garage door ever melt. Slab is frozen solid there.

As for the TIG questions, just copy and paste that whole section over in tools and you'll have 20 replies by tomorrow.

 

[Stooge]

When you figure out your TIG, you can drop on by with the white truck and help me figure out my new TIG.

I hope you have alot of time because my left hand is an idiot and theres going to be a LONG learning curve!

I hope a MA cold garage is a lot warmer than a WI cold garage! I can actually be running some heat in my garage this time of year and not have the ice on the floor by the garage door ever melt. Slab is frozen solid there.

As for the TIG questions, just copy and paste that whole section over in tools and you'll have 20 replies by tomorrow.

Hah, i dont know if i would use the word warm, but from what ive heard from a friend who grew up in WI/ fond du lac area, i dont think we get down that low into the negative digits over here! I think it was 14°ish, so sweatshirt weather! not bad after you get going, but the first few minutes trying to grip little nuts and bolts was frustrating enough that i rewarded myself with chinese takeout when i was done

 

[Kev442]

Between Reynaulds syndrome and old age, anything below 48 is miserable to be wrenching these days for me. I did learn that a little radiant heater trained on the tools I'm using and near me makes a world of difference.

 

[Stooge]

A little bit of progress on the white truck this chilly weekend. I still need to find/ make some spacers for the bolt to keep the coilover centered, but the lower mounts are installed, and i got to put it back on its wheels for the first time since October when i pulled the air suspension stuff out. I'll be getting some higher rated springs so it will end up raising the front up a bit, but it will still be relatively low. The rear shock mounts that i made when i built it for air, look like i set it up for coilovers on purpose, so i'll be able to reuse those for the new set up, i just need to do some measuring, but i want to get the front setup right first and set the back up relative to that. Also looking at putting door handles back on, both to have door handles and not have to rely on a remote, and to break up all of the white a bit. i was making a list of the stuff i need for it on classic parts, and it was only around $200 or so for everything, so i'll probably do that at some point.

20210131_140002 by Dan Haas, on Flickr

20210131_140010 by Dan Haas, on Flickr

20210131_144356 by Dan Haas, on Flickr

20210131_144349 by Dan Haas, on Flickr

20210131_144512 by Dan Haas, on Flickr

Also scooped up another late '40s Carter W-1 for the Buick's intake. I need to piece together 4 good ones, so when a clean one pops up, i usually will grab it. This is probably the nicest one so far, and was the cheapest at $10 on ebay, and he threw in some spare parts.

20210126_175836 by Dan Haas, on Flickr

20210126_175848 by Dan Haas, on Flickr

 

[BORING HOP YARD]

Hey Dan nice work on the truck, how are the throttle shafts on the carburetors?
I have worked on several multiple set ups and if any of the carbs leak at the shaft it will cause you problems since you will be trying to get them all to flow the same.
As you know any air that's get in through the shaft is below the idle screw so it's not metered. It's hard to balance the carbs with the one that is pulling to much air because of the shaft. It's been my experience that the idle will be to high. Good luck on your quest and I looking forward to you firing up your carb set up.

 

[Stooge]

Hey Dan nice work on the truck, how are the throttle shafts on the carburetors?
I have worked on several multiple set ups and if any of the carbs leak at the shaft it will cause you problems since you will be trying to get them all to flow the same.
As you know any air that's get in through the shaft is below the idle screw so it's not metered. It's hard to balance the carbs with the one that is pulling to much air because of the shaft. It's been my experience that the idle will be to high. Good luck on your quest and I looking forward to you firing up your carb set up.

Hey thanks, im getting excited about getting the white truck out and about on the new set up. and just out in general, its been awhile since ive actually driven it anywhere other than moving it around the driveway. Hoping to be pretty close when the weather starts getting nice out.

The shaft play/ wearing, has been the big thing, especially where there havent been any swap meets this past year to go and fondle them, finding them online and ebay, its kind of just taking a shot based off of how it looks and hoping the seller is honest enough. Out of the 6 carburetors i have, id say i have 2, maybe 3, that im happy with the throttle shaft action/ do not show signs of being worn out in that area. TThere are definitely 2 that are bad and will be used for parts, but they were cheap enough so i bought them for mocking up the rest of it. Its going to be a big learning curve getting them rebuilt and synchronized, but big overwhelming projects and jumping in the deep end is alot of the fun. 4 single barrels shouldnt be a big stretch for the engine, there were a few yrs in the '40s that they came with two 2barrel carburetors, and speaking with some people much more knowledgeable than i, the late '40s Carter W-1 574S seemed to be a good choice. The engine will be coming back out before starting it, so it might be awhile before its making noise, but its something im looking forward to!

I also hear this morning that theres some news about the 460 ford big block coming home from the machine shop soon so it can go in the '58 Edsel wagon

 

[xtremek]

Is it possible to put a bushing in the carb body to fix the looseness in the throttle shaft?

 

[Stooge]

Is it possible to put a bushing in the carb body to fix the looseness in the throttle shaft?

I would imagine a machinist would be able to figure out a way to do it, but i wouldnt be very confident in having a go at it myself. One of the sides might be a little easier, but the rod side of the shaft, it is set out on a protrusion that sticks out about 5/8" and there isnt much extra material around it. the throttle shaft is 1/4" through the casting

20210201_195114 by Dan Haas, on Flickr

20210201_194936 by Dan Haas, on Flickr

20210201_195031 by Dan Haas, on Flickr

20210201_195710 by Dan Haas, on Flickr

 

[xtremek]

McMaster-Carr sells brass tubing that might work.

0.032" Wall Thick. (-0.004" to 0.004" Tolerance)
OD OD Tolerance Range ID 1 ft. Lg.
5/16" -0.004" to 0.004" 0.249" 7782T391 $6.60

And a ream is about $25-$35

 

[BORING HOP YARD]

We used a line reamer that had the tip turned down the the size of the standard shaft bore that would act as the pilot. The owner had access to a lathe and would turn out bushing out of brass. https://www.carburetor-parts.com/Brass-Throttle-Bushing-22-4-1_p_441.html
If the web site above is correct it looks like your shaft's are 1/4 and you would want to open to 5/16. If could find a 5/16 line reamer (e-bay $30 - $40) and have the first 1/2 inch turned down to 1/4 your all set. You should have someone in your town the sharpens cutter tools, they should be able to grind down the reamer for you. A machine tool supply should be able to tell you who sharpens machine tools in your area.
I would bet you a brewsky you would be in this under $ 100. You could also grind down the end the you would chuck up in a drill down to 1/4 have the tool sharpened so it will cut when pulled backward through the carb base using the reamer as the guide.

With the correct sharp tool and lots of cutting oil this a very easy job the could be done with a hand drill.

 

[xtremek]

Since you've got a couple bad ones to spare, why not?

 

[xtremek]

We used a line reamer that had the tip turned down the the size of the standard shaft bore that would act as the pilot. The owner had access to a lathe and would turn out bushing out of brass. https://www.carburetor-parts.com/Brass-Throttle-Bushing-22-4-1_p_441.html
If the web site above is correct it looks like your shaft's are 1/4 and you would want to open to 5/16. If could find a 5/16 line reamer (e-bay $30 - $40) and have the first 1/2 inch turned down to 1/4 your all set. You should have someone in your town the sharpens cutter tools, they should be able to grind down the reamer for you. A machine tool supply should be able to tell you who sharpens machine tools in your area.
I would bet you a brewsky you would be in this under $ 100. You could also grind down the end the you would chuck up in a drill down to 1/4 have the tool sharpened so it will cut when pulled backward through the carb base using the reamer as the guide.

With the correct sharp tool and lots of cutting oil this a very easy job the could be done with a hand drill.

The $6-$7 for the brass tube is for 1'. McMaster Carr has reams for 0.3125" and 0.3124", all for under $30. You could do all your carbs for under $100.

 

[tinker rick]

Being that the shaft is brass and the body is cast I would assume the shaft would wear first and easier to machine a new shaft if they are worn . Just a thought .

 

[Stooge]

McMaster-Carr sells brass tubing that might work.

0.032" Wall Thick. (-0.004" to 0.004" Tolerance)
OD OD Tolerance Range ID 1 ft. Lg.
5/16" -0.004" to 0.004" 0.249" 7782T391 $6.60

And a ream is about $25-$35

We used a line reamer that had the tip turned down the the size of the standard shaft bore that would act as the pilot. The owner had access to a lathe and would turn out bushing out of brass. https://www.carburetor-parts.com/Brass-Throttle-Bushing-22-4-1_p_441.html
If the web site above is correct it looks like your shaft's are 1/4 and you would want to open to 5/16. If could find a 5/16 line reamer (e-bay $30 - $40) and have the first 1/2 inch turned down to 1/4 your all set. You should have someone in your town the sharpens cutter tools, they should be able to grind down the reamer for you. A machine tool supply should be able to tell you who sharpens machine tools in your area.
I would bet you a brewsky you would be in this under $ 100. You could also grind down the end the you would chuck up in a drill down to 1/4 have the tool sharpened so it will cut when pulled backward through the carb base using the reamer as the guide.

With the correct sharp tool and lots of cutting oil this a very easy job the could be done with a hand drill.

Being that the shaft is brass and the body is cast I would assume the shaft would wear first and easier to machine a new shaft if they are worn . Just a thought .

Well i stand corrected guys, that does seem pretty do-able! We have an in house machine shop here at work, and although i wouldnt want to ask them to do the work on the carbs themselves, asking to have a reamer turned down would be alright.
Im completely fine with throwing a couple dollars at some bushings and reamers as an experiment. i'll take a look sometime and pick out the worst one to try out, so if it gets screwed up, no real loss

 

[Kev442]

Glad to see the excitement level for the pickup is growing as Spring approaches! (never mind the Nor'easter this week).

Winter is due to arrive this week here too, 8-10" of snow followed by lows of -12 and highs of zero. I'll be trying to keep the garage warm by burning wood in the house and having the door open.

I decided to pull the body off my least active project car as the rotisserie is available, might as well get double value out of it on two projects.
I'm glad I did!
After rearranging two weekends ago to get it lined up, I went to pull the body bolts this weekend. 2 were missing from the factory and three bolts were already pulled. Yep, there were only 5 bolts holding the body on the car. So, the body has been off the car before, it will be interesting to inspect the frame for damage, I'm worried now.
Hope to have the frame out from under this weekend.

 

[Stooge]

While doing some research yesterday, i happened upon this thread over on the HAMB from Frenchtown Flyer regarding an autolite carb he was working on. Some good ideas that are similar to what Hop Yard suggested about reverse cutting the flutes at the shank and using the shank as a guide, and some tips from Carb King, who originally suggested carter w-1's to me,
https://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/threads/carburetor-throttle-shaft-repair.1168283/ Originally, i was mostly worried about having the shaft bores being reamed of center and having possible binding issues, but if i can get a reamer cut to work in reverse, it would make this seemingly pretty feasible/ with a low risk of futzing it up too badly

Glad to see the excitement level for the pickup is growing as Spring approaches! (never mind the Nor'easter this week).

Winter is due to arrive this week here too, 8-10" of snow followed by lows of -12 and highs of zero. I'll be trying to keep the garage warm by burning wood in the house and having the door open.

I decided to pull the body off my least active project car as the rotisserie is available, might as well get double value out of it on two projects.
I'm glad I did!
After rearranging two weekends ago to get it lined up, I went to pull the body bolts this weekend. 2 were missing from the factory and three bolts were already pulled. Yep, there were only 5 bolts holding the body on the car. So, the body has been off the car before, it will be interesting to inspect the frame for damage, I'm worried now.
Hope to have the frame out from under this weekend.

We managed to avoid most of the noreaster around my area, some snow but mostly a rainy snow mix that made a big mess, but didnt really accumulate to much. and its brought the temperatures up a bit passed the negatives over the weekend. I'm doing a bit more research on what spring rates to go with before ordering a new set this week. i can find stock'ish suspension rates for those trucks, but theres a good bit of weight removed from the front of the car without the battery under the hood, rack and pinion instead of a big cast iron steering box, no heat or ac, all tube crossmember and control arms instead of the stamped stock plate stuff, gas tank is behind the rear axle instead of under the cab, etc. i knew buying the first set of springs was just to get a baseline and used 500lb springs. i will probably be closer to around 700 with the new set.

Thats a pretty big impulse decision to pull the body! is it currently on the rotisserie? where are the pics??

 

[Kev442]

Sorry, just chocked up on some 4"x 4" wood blocks right now. I'll attempt to wrangle the frame out from under it this weekend, gonna take some head scratching this time in very tight circumstances.

 

[Kev442]

Kinda fun to have the garage hit 50 (at waist height anyway) while being -2 outside.
Did sit down and finagle the frame out using half the rotorserie and the engine hoist on the front.
Had to make some adaptors from some scrap angle iron to mount the back end (pic 1).
Their length caused an issue which almost tipped. It was weird, I tested by raising the rear end first. No problem. Hoisted the front end. No problem. Got the rear end rolled out halfway, then raised the front end up higher to get the front suspension out.
Success! Frame out.
Started to lower front end. Hmmm, why is it going crooked? Look in back. Rotorserie has tipped, rear wheels are up in the air! Jump on it and it slowly rights itself. Now what?
Slowly step off, starts to tip. Quickly grab a bucket of blasting sand and get back on. Yank a 4x4x10 over onto it too. Get off. It holds. Lower the rear all the way down, more stable.
Whew! Grab the jack and stands, get it on them.
Finally lower front end down onto blocks, done.
Why it never gave a whisper of trouble until I was done moving the frame, I'll never know.
One filthy, crusty frame ready for wire wheeling.
I'll also pop the pumpkin to see if it really is a positraction one of these days.

 

[Stooge]

Its looking good, Kev! And good luck wire wheeling the frame, and hold on tight! I think when i did the buick frame, it probably took 10 or 12 hrs over 2 days, with some breaks. No incidents or injuries, but there were a few times, it would catch on something and give a good kick! Mostly used the flat disc knotted wire wheel, and to a lesser extent, a cupped one, both Milwaukee and both were pretty good, and seemed pretty well balanced, (didnt shake my arms to jello!).

New springs came in, 700lbs versus 500, should do the trick, and i can do some measuring on the rear
20210209_213031 by Dan Haas, on Flickr

20210209_214200 by Dan Haas, on Flickr

Unexpectedly have to buy a new gas tank for the truck. Some water must have gotten in at some point and made a mess of things. the bottom floor was muddy but would have cleaned up fine, but the upper inside was crusty, and for the $100 or so for a new one, (stock '80s suburban 25gallon tank) rather than trying to clean and seal the old one, its an easy decision. i had used a grommet for i think a 90s mustang, so that the filler neck could slide in with some misalignment and would be easy to remove, but i guess there was some seepage. Im considering welding the filler neck to the tank and using the rest of the Hagan's gas door stuff as i was before, i'd just have to mark off where to drill the hole in the tank pretty accurately

20210205_125839 by Dan Haas, on Flickr

And missed out on something i've been keeping an eye open for, but aside from never seeing them for sale, was priced out of the market on them, only to be scooped up by a flipper (i believe), by 1 Minute! an old Edmunds Custom aluminum 2x2 stromberg intake for a Buick straight 8 for $250. I saw the ad that was posted a minute before, but it was vague and didnt mention which size engine, so i immediately asked, he didnt know but would take a measurement and i thanked him. Then someone else right afterwards said he would buy it, with no way of knowing what it fit, and it seems like it would be pretty impossible to know if the ports were 7.**" or 8" center to center. i would imagine he just saw an Edmunds intake for cheap, and it will pop back up in a few weeks for a grand or more, but of course i could be wrong. Where the seller didnt know what it went to, i was a little skeptical if it was definitely for a buick and not one of the other straight 8 engines. I know i have the 4 Carters one in progress, but it would have been pretty cool to use a real one from the era that im sort of building the buick to, and old aftermarket straight 8 speed parts are hard to find, so a little bummed but i'll get over it!

2021-02-11_06-36-21 by Dan Haas, on Flickr

Screenshot_20210211-065407_Facebook by Dan Haas, on Flickr

Screenshot_20210211-065419_Facebook by Dan Haas, on Flickr

Screenshot_20210211-065414_Facebook by Dan Haas, on Flickr

I saw a Howard's intake for a straight 8 a few months back, but it was for 6 2barrel carbs, and they wanted $1500 for it. I wasnt really seriously considering buying it, 4 single barrels will be hard enough to tune, nevermind 6 2barrels, (as well as buying/ rebuilding them), but it was tempting because of this picture of Don Montgomery from 1952 ive had saved thats been hanging out in the brain when making some questionable Buick decisions

2021-02-11_07-20-52 by Dan Haas, on Flickr

2021-02-11_07-21-21 by Dan Haas, on Flickr

2021-02-11_07-17-19 by Dan Haas, on Flickr

2021-02-11_07-16-51 by Dan Haas, on Flickr

2021-02-11_07-17-40 by Dan Haas, on Flickr

2021-02-11_07-18-03 by Dan Haas, on Flickr

 

[BORING HOP YARD]

Hey Dan, I just wanted to toss this out about the reamer.
I used to machine beryllium copper which is very hard and it takes a long time to get though it. One of our tool designers made up a what we called a split reamer.
The first inch of the reamer was one size then it stepped up to the finished size on the rest of the reamer. I cut a 8 hour job down to 4 hours. My concern is the amount of material that is being removed. .250 shaft .312 bushing .312 - .250 = .062 being removed in one pass. I have used reamers to remove .062 before you will need to go slow and use lots of oil. I only wanted to toss this out because you have access to some cutter tool support that might be able to help you. Sorry you missed the manifold.
Greg

 

[xtremek]

Sounds like you dodged a huge bullet Kev. Glad the only thing that really happened was your heart rate going way up.

Dan, bummer on the intake, but it sounds like you're making huge progress on the truck. Looks like you're going to have a busy spring and a fun summer.

 

[Kev442]

Maybe it's just me, but I think your home crafted intake will get more attention than the vintage one to everyday people. Anyone can bolt a part on, very few can craft an intake from scratch.

As for the gas tank, I guess we now know why you don't see vertical straight shots like that from the factory. If you decide to use a rubber seal again, coat it with some Seals All for a watertight fit.

I used a knotted wire wheel to do the long stretches of my other frame, then used black beauty in the spot blaster for nooks and crannies. I swapped differentials on that one, so all the rear control arms got cleaned well. Don't know if I'll get that motivated on this one, I've already gone much farther than planned.
Not mimicking a waterjet on my custom dump truck brackets far, but pretty far.

Aw, who am I kidding? If it really is a positraction, it will all get taken apart.
So much for the "quick and dirty driver" build.

 

[Bob Heine]

Dan, I think I would have bought that Edmunds Custom and if it didn't fit, post it back on eBay for the same price plus shipping. I bought my Edmunds for a 216/235 Chevy in 1963 and used it for a couple of years. Saved it with plans to build another straight 6 but never did. Cleaned it up and sold in 2009 for $600. It was neat the way it used hot water to improve atomization instead of the exhaust manifold box.

 

[xtremek]

Bob, that was super sweet. Must have been hard to let go of.

 

[Stooge]

Hey Dan, I just wanted to toss this out about the reamer.
I used to machine beryllium copper which is very hard and it takes a long time to get though it. One of our tool designers made up a what we called a split reamer.
The first inch of the reamer was one size then it stepped up to the finished size on the rest of the reamer. I cut a 8 hour job down to 4 hours. My concern is the amount of material that is being removed. .250 shaft .312 bushing .312 - .250 = .062 being removed in one pass. I have used reamers to remove .062 before you will need to go slow and use lots of oil. I only wanted to toss this out because you have access to some cutter tool support that might be able to help you. Sorry you missed the manifold.
Greg

Oh yeah, i assumed it was probably going to be a several cutting tool job. i still have to order the bushings, and can start gathering what will work. I'll try and grab the ear of one of the guys in the machine shop and see what he has to say. Even with the cost of several reamers and bushings, i would still say its a win to be able to save a few of them, especially over buying questionable cores that i can fondle in person. With the 4 i need, i would like to have a rebuilt back up that can be swapped in if something happens on a road trip. thanks again for your insight, its greatly appreciated!

Dan, bummer on the intake, but it sounds like you're making huge progress on the truck. Looks like you're going to have a busy spring and a fun summer.

I was planning on mounting the new springs into the truck this weekend, but decided i wasnt completely happy with the driver side upper coilover bracket, and if it bothers me now, its going to bother me later, so it came back out and got cut off and made a new one sunday evening. i just wanted to kick the mount out away from the frame slightly for better fitment and a bolt head was close to rubbing on the spring. Happy with it now, just waiting for some paint to dry and and it can all go back together sometime. I'd like to be able to measure for the rear coilovers and have atleast one ordered this week to try out. The rear should be pretty easy to swap over to coilovers with the stout shock mounts already in place.

Maybe it's just me, but I think your home crafted intake will get more attention than the vintage one to everyday people. Anyone can bolt a part on, very few can craft an intake from scratch.

As for the gas tank, I guess we now know why you don't see vertical straight shots like that from the factory. If you decide to use a rubber seal again, coat it with some Seals All for a watertight fit....

Sounds like getting the frame all cleaned up was a success, aside from it almost falling off!
Im cool with the home made intake and will keep going forward with it, and it will be an interesting and 'should' work well, but the Edmunds intake would have also been really cool and saved ALOT of time and effort getting it set up. Both with the availability of oem Stromberg parts for every possible scenario as well as their linkages you can buy off the shelf for multiple carb applications and the plethora of information out there on tuning them. I think you guys have figured out i like doing things the hard way and have big overwhelming projects, but i have to admit, bolting on a vintage aftermarket intake sounds pretty nice compared to currently teaching myself to tig weld so i can finish building the intake and eventually bolt it on !

New gas tank ordered this morning for the white truck, should be here friday'ish from Rockauto. I think i'll be welding the filler neck right into the tank to hopefully lessen the chances of water seeping in. with a spot inside the home garage, it shouldnt be too much to worry about, but you never know if i drag something else home sometime!

Dan, I think I would have bought that Edmunds Custom and if it didn't fit, post it back on eBay for the same price plus shipping. I bought my Edmunds for a 216/235 Chevy in 1963 and used it for a couple of years. Saved it with plans to build another straight 6 but never did. Cleaned it up and sold in 2009 for $600. It was neat the way it used hot water to improve atomization instead of the exhaust manifold box.

Bob, thats a real beauty, and they certainly look great all polished up! It wasnt for lack of trying this time to get the Edmunds intake. i usually hem and haw, procrastinate and talk myself in and out of something over and over with unexpected purchases like this, but i was pretty on the ball this time, replying to his ad within a minute of posting it! The other guy either knew something i didnt know, or just saw the name and price and pounced on it regardless of what it fit, since it could be resold for 2 or 3 times the price to buy. I set up a few saved searches on ebay so if it gets posted up on ebay, i'll see it and can kick myself over it when its for sale for $900 or something Realistically, I probably would have gone up to $5-600 before i started talking myself out of this one, but i would have had to be pretty sure it would fit the larger straight 8 that i have, over the small displacement ones.
Nothings ever set in stone, i'll keep on with my 4 Carters, but if something pops up and i happen to have some spare cash, you never know!

 

[Kev442]

Managed to score some N95 auto body masks, so now no excuse for not working on dirty stuff. I have a respirator, but it gets in the way of the safety glasses and shield. I look and feel like darth vader when I have all that gear on.

Took a couple brackets off the frame, along with the 1/2 racing fuel return line, not much else as happened as I had to wrench on my sled.
Steering column locked up and that is about the first thing bolted to a snowmobile on the line. Good thing I have my mom's girlie hands to snake into very small spaces. Was worth it as I got to ride last weekend before today's 46 degrees ended the season locally.

 

[Stooge]

Stopped dragging my feet so much getting back to work on the trunk of the buick this weekend.
Somewhere along the line, by way of some maybe not so precision work, the gap of the lower part of the trunk lid had tightened up a bit, not a ton, but enough that it had to be corrected, so that was first. Marked off where the gap started tightening up, and made 2ft long slits on either side of the trunk opening with a cutting wheel, and widened it slightly. then had the cut line taper off at the top, and pulled the trunk channel back to fill in the new gap, and in turn straightened/ pulled back the perimeter. There was probably a better way to do this and cutting giant holes in a big curve wasnt something i was especially looking forward to, but it did what i wanted it to. Theres still some clean up to do, but it all kept its shape so im happy enough with it.

2021-03-01_08-00-47 by Dan Haas, on Flickr

20210221_155006 by Dan Haas, on Flickr

20210220_155204 by Dan Haas, on Flickr

2021-03-01_08-01-43 by Dan Haas, on Flickr

Since that was enough to know where the gaps would be, i finally started fitting in the new lower channel i made probably close to a yr ago before i pulled the body off the chassis. A few things had changed since then so this made for a 'its going to look worse, before it looks better' situation fitting the corners/ edges where the 3 or 4 pieces all meet.

2021-03-01_07-41-27 by Dan Haas, on Flickr

2021-03-01_06-16-04 by Dan Haas, on Flickr

Since i had widened the opening a bit, i elected to pie cut the corners, that i had made with the shrinker/ stretcher, to fit the contour a bit better, and also cut the corner edge to make the transition from lip, to filler piece to new channel that was already put in, flow a little better.

2021-03-01_06-15-36 by Dan Haas, on Flickr

First pass or 2, not a perfect edge but its a work in progress and will be corrected, theres some planishing still to do, along with the lower lip could use some prettying up. there is still another piece, a long strip that will connect the sides of the trunk channel and make a outward facing C channel on the lower lip. The piece i cut out of the trunk, didnt have the the upper lip so i didnt make it that way, then some research showed there should be one there, and that my car was just rotted out i guess

2021-03-01_06-17-19 by Dan Haas, on Flickr

2021-03-01_06-14-52 by Dan Haas, on Flickr

2021-03-01_06-14-25 by Dan Haas, on Flickr

I'll start cleaning up the long center section welds and start the driver side corner this week sometime and can hopefully call the trunk stuff done soon

 

[BORING HOP YARD]

Nice work, that will finish out very nice. I had kind of the same moment when correcting the door gaps on my 56. I had to cut a slit to tighten a big gap that was from the after market back cab corners. I him and hawed and had about 90% of the metal work done on the cab. One day when opening the door to my shop I came to the conclusion it was time, jumped in and got the door gaps corrected and figured a way to install my doors repeatable. It wasn't that hard, just wasn't a lot of fun. Thanks for sharing your projects!

 

[xtremek]

Always fun to see your work. Nice job.

 

[Kev442]

I'm not surprised your lower channel was gone. My project is 25 years newer and the parts car channel was 70% gone in that same area. Thankfully it was pretty good on the real car, although strange that the car that needed floorboards was good there.

I pulled the rear diff last weekend off this frame and took all the various brackets and bolts off. The frame was so dirty that I ended up taking a drill with a fiber wheel and my vac and cleaning it before I can do the wire wheel. It was worth it as a constant rooster tail of fine dirt was getting sucked straight into the vac.
Last thing I did was hoist it up so I can wire wheel all 4 sides this weekend.