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Stooge's Longer term car projects, Part 2

Kev442

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Oh Oh. Now you need to detail the firewall and trans tunnel on the Edsel in the next few weeks/months!

Does the house have a dryer or electric stove outlet? You could make a welding extension cord if they are close to the garage.
I've also done it using two 110v outlets to run a plasma cutter.
 
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Bob Heine

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a really great watch if anyone hasnt seen it already, some parts even give me goosebumps!
Dan, it would have been better if it didn't get blurry every few minutes. It was one of the cars I saw as a kid and wanted to build one just like it. I remember when I saw it with the '55 Buick spear and how many more Mercs got that trim. I stopped buying comic books so I could followed the Dream Truck project in Rod&Custom.
 
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Stooge

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Oh Oh. Now you need to detail the firewall and trans tunnel on the Edsel in the next few weeks/months!

Does the house have a dryer or electric stove outlet? You could make a welding extension cord if they are close to the garage.
I've also done it using two 110v outlets to run a plasma cutter.

I keep meaning to grab some car wash supplies and push both the wagon and truck outside for a bath, and you would think with Friday's off, i would have gotten to it by now! I was just trying to find some pictures but stupid photobucket messed them up, of a 1961 Chevrolet Parkwood that someone on the HAMB gave it a CLR bath with some scotchbrite, and showed the difference. The edsel still has alot of shiny paint, but the roof and hood are a little crusty and i think would benefit from it.

I thought about the dryer outlet, but its in a closet in my bedroom and probably not a feasible way to get anywhere close enough to the garage. BUT i completely forgot about having an electric stove, that is pretty close to the front door, and the front door is about 3 or 4 ft to the right of the garage door, so i'll need to do some some investigating to see what the stove's outlet situation is. My miller 211 has the multi-voltage plug so it will work wherever, and i have a pretty beefy, and relatively long 240 receptacle extension cord. i was planning on using this if i was going to change the mounts https://www.summitracing.com/parts/cee-2047 and i'll need to find a sway bar, (something hopefully simple) for the rear, since with the bags, i didnt have one.

Dan, it would have been better if it didn't get blurry every few minutes. It was one of the cars I saw as a kid and wanted to build one just like it. I remember when I saw it with the '55 Buick spear and how many more Mercs got that trim. I stopped buying comic books so I could followed the Dream Truck project in Rod&Custom.

Yeah, especially got a little blurry near the end! :cry: ...unless you mean the video quality was just getting blurry? The dash in the white truck was very much because i've always been big into customs and i kept trying to buy '49-'54 GM coupes,that kept falling through, so i thought i would build atleast part of a custom inside. ('50'ish Ford gauge cluster and clock, both still 6v positive ground because i like things to be dificult)
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And because i like metal flake, we're doing metal flake on the interior trim of the Edsel, (dash since all of the sculpted foam dash pad disintegrated and the dash pad was an option anyways, and the window garnishings) just to jazz things up a bit inside.

Probably this color, or maybe something a little darker.

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Kev442

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Sounds like you will be welding at home after making some kind of adapter for the stove outlet, they usually are a different style from others as rated for 50+ amps.
Still easier to bring a welder home than drag a truck to the shop!
 
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Stooge

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I pulled the stove out, (then the vacuum cleaner since it was such a dusty mess back there!) and i have the style of plug from the stove
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so i've been doing some looking for plugs, i have an electrician friend in the maintenance dept at work i was going to check with. He isnt interested in doing outside electrical work, but finding coming up with connectors and stuff is fine. im obviously fine buying what i need, i just want someone with the electrical smarts to confirm what i have/ what i want to do. i have a spare 240 receptacle welding extension cord that might have to give up it's standard male end for a little bit sometime soon.

I've been tasked with making some floating shelves for a friend of mine and her new hair studio. Nothing to see yet, just getting the materials together and trying to find some "reclaimed" wood that looks weathered and used, or some cut offs from the wood shop at work and i'll try and make it look ******? Theres some good candidates outside at the garage, from the guy's construction business, that are just under some stairs, but i obviously want to check that they are trash before hand. Brackets are just 26" long strips of 1" x 1/4" and some 1/2" metal rods with an 1/8" wall, welded to the strips to stick out horizontal from the wall, and the rods will support the wood shelf through some holes drilled into it. She's a good friend of mine, and her dad was a woodworker, but died back in April, so i am happy to try and help out, especially when she was about to plunk down alot of money for them from a vendor online. They are just going to be for some of the hair products she sells, so it doesnt have to be anything crazy, but its sort of hard to rein it and not over build it, but not everything is big heavy cars :unsure:

But speaking of big heavy cars, the door is back on the plymouth, sort of. When the doors were set up, they used some aftermarket brackets with captured/ floating threaded plates to make aligning it easier, but they were only poorly tacked on 20yrs ago, and i guess through handling the doors, a couple of the welds popped off, causing the bracket to be seperate from the door on the lower bottom corner hinge, so its sticking it out a bit. It was coming back off anyways to finish it up, i just wanted to test fit it since cutting a few inches off of the door bottom and sill. Fits nice other than that! Started on the new license plate box and filling in the big surrounding hole left by the old one, but it doesnt look like i took any pictures of that

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And i started looking at what ive accumulated for the new intake, i might make a little change to how its shaped, maybe a more trapezoid shape with angled sides to the 'box' rather than a rectangle. Atleast i sort of planned ahead and put the front nose on to double check clearances first before i got it all made! it will fit in the rectangular shape, but not by much, and i think the revised one might look a little better and closer to the Edmunds Custom intakes.

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Bob Heine

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Dan, is the oven outlet on a wall shared by your garage? If it is, you could tap into the stove outlet box and put box on the garage side with a welder-compatible outlet in it (using the same gauge wire as the stove side). I was going to do something like that with the dryer outlet in our house. Ended up putting a separate outlet for the compressor. When I want to weld I just pull the plug on the compressor and plug in the welder extension cord. Because the NEMA 6-50 is on a 20A breaker, I posted a little reminder on the cover plate.
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Stooge

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Looking like you're chipping away at it pretty consistently.

I feel like i've been a little lazy with the buick lately, but thats just because i still have that rotted lower cowl piece facing me and that and the front section of the driver side door sill is basically the last of any of the big sheet metal projects on it. Im a little skeptical of my driving by next July, but i essentially have all the parts, it just needs to be put together and painted in the next yr with alot of weekend projects like brakes, steering, etc. so not sooo far away from driving, but it just looks very far away i think, or atleast thats what im telling myself.

Dan, is the oven outlet on a wall shared by your garage? If it is, you could tap into the stove outlet box and put box on the garage side with a welder-compatible outlet in it (using the same gauge wire as the stove side). I was going to do something like that with the dryer outlet in our house. Ended up putting a separate outlet for the compressor. When I want to weld I just pull the plug on the compressor and plug in the welder extension cord. Because the NEMA 6-50 is on a 20A breaker, I posted a little reminder on the cover plate.
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Unfortunately its on a different side and they dont share a wall. i was thinking something similar since the stove shares a wall with the front porch and theres a 110 outlet on the porch, and also about having something off of the circuit breaker in the garage, but for the few times i need to do some heavier welding, im ok with pulling the stove out a bit. its a dusty garage with alot of exposed wood, and the house is from the mid 1800s, so im not really looking to do much there since it would go up like a book of matches. But not having to drag the rearend out of the truck, deal with brake lines, fluid, etc. and get it to my garage to weld up, is going to make this project alot more enticing. My smaller 30'ish gallon compressor i have at home works fine off of the regular 110/120 outlets, and even some sheet metal tack welds have been fine, but start cranking up the machine and it just trips immediately.
 
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Stooge

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I finally started the new and hopefully permanent intake for straight 8 this long weekend. I changed plans a few times and am simplifying things alittle with a pair of Stromberg Big Primary 97's and basing it off of an Edmunds Customs intake, but with the exhaust, a real Edmunds probably wouldnt have fit and it would have been an expensive experiment trying to buy one.

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Split the tubing down the middle to give it a rounded edge. The tubing and flat plate is mostly 1/8 and 14ga, and the flanges came from Hells Gate hot rods.

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I just put a couple single barrels in place for something to look at. Im probably going to get the new carburetors in the next few weeks so i can set up the pedals and linkages incase i need to add some brackets before it gets coated. I was talking to a buddy who has a finishing shop this morning, and it might be chrome cerakote for the intake and black for the exhaust header. This is actually upside down in the pictures, i wanted to be able to really smooth out the inner floor along the seams , so the lid will go on with the new carburetor flanges since i believe the Big 97's need the intake flanges opened up and ported a bit.

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( i need to trim the exhaust flange near the firewall, stacked over the intake flange so that is why the exhaust is sticking out a bit)
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Also happened to find the right sized radiator, it will need to be gone through, but i got it for not too much so im happy with it

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And made some floating shelves for a good friend of mine who opened up a new studio for her hairstylist/bridal hair business. She wanted 'reclaimed' wood and to look kind of trashed, first pieces of old ****** looking wood werent routing out well, so some 2x12s from crates at work with nail holes, banding strap marks, big knots, etc and a paint wash did the trick.
Made some brackets out of 1inch strip, .250 thick i think, and some half inch, .125 wall tubing, and a bunch of holes drilled in the strips to make them somewhat universal fit. Wood was trimmed to 30x8x2, the wall facing side routed out to fit/ hide the brackets. Used some acrylic paints and water to give the wood a tint without it looking too finished.
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Loaded with products to sell

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xtremek

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I might have asked this question before, but with that big plenum, aren't you worried about slow throttle response? Wouldn't a smaller plenum work better? It looks cool for sure.
 
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Stooge

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Its something i've thought about but its pretty comparable, and slightly smaller than the aftermarket Howards and Edmunds original ones from the time. I think it also looks a little bigger than it is, especially with the small 1 barrels on it. The tubing is 1-1/2, and is the intake's overall height, with the majority of it being 1/8 wall so interior height is 1-1/4'ish. But its hot rodding and im trying something, and if it doesnt work, ill change it until it does, its only time and effort and a little bit of money!
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xtremek

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You got me on that last sentence. Looking forward to seeing it running. Did you get any work done on the truck lately?
 
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Stooge

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You got me on that last sentence. Looking forward to seeing it running. Did you get any work done on the truck lately?
Yeah! im sure if i was better at math and stuff, i could make something with a little more theory behind it, but for engines they stopped making 70yrs ago, and not a ton of aftermarket/ performance stuff ever for them, its been alot of reading and research and "this seems like it should flow better than XYZ..". Now, with the Big 97's it will be a log style plenum with roughly 500cfm total for 320ci, so nothing really crazy, and not too far off from the factory dual carb layout, but with a direct linkage instead of progressive. that was a suggestion from John/ CarbKing from The Carburetor Shop, over on the HAMB, AACA, and every other forum for dual carb Buicks, direct, non-progressive linkage and replace the smaller secondary carb, with a matching primary.

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Not much with the truck, though i did put the rest of the front Edsel suspension back together after finally getting the lower control arm bushings delivered after a long supplier leadtime. they fit 'OK' but took some convincing to drive them in and didnt fit like the pair that came with the front end kit we bought, (they had 2 different pairs of bushings instead of 4 matching ones that i needed, and one of the pairs was incorrect). Also, pulled the gas tank and will start pulling the rear suspension apart and getting it cleaned up, and dumped a few gallons of 60yr old Iowa farm dirt all over the floor that was hiding above the tank.

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Looks like the dry dirt packed up there might have protected the floor a bit and theres still paint up there. I was really expecting it to be swiss cheese, but it seems like its pretty solid there. The tank itself actually doesnt look too bad inside, (it was bone dry) atleast on the floor of it, but the top is pretty crusty, and it looks like someone tried to use a jack on it or backed over something to put a big dent in it. Theres a similar year Ford wagon tank that looks like it should fit for around $500, which will be a worthwhile investment i think.

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And dogs coming over has been keeping me busy

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Great work on the intake, it will be interesting to see what you end up with.
The shelves came out very nice!

Thanks! for just a weekend's worth of work, it was some good progress, especially when i work slow and is looking how i was imagining it. I still need to get the material for the new carburetor flanges, and start figuring out what to do for a pedal linkage and fuel block.

My friend loves the shelves, so i was happy to help with her new venture, alogn with saving her the $6-700 that the people on Etsy wanted for a trio of 'reclaimed wood' shelves, and i got to do something a little different. Though it was kind of hard to leave them a little rough, and not try and make it as nice as i could! She's an avid craft person and sews, and over the weekend, volunteered to try and make new upholstery for the door cards for the Buick. I bought a new old stock one last yr, but i think it was for a sedan door as its a little short, but good to have it as a template. Nothing urgent, but it will be good to have the doors, seat and rear seat area and headliner upholstered in relatively the same fabric.
 
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Stooge

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Cracked open the piggy bank and bought something new and shiny for a change! I just bought one of them to finish the intake, ill get the second one when im closer to starting it but at $550 with a couple of the linkage clips, i might grab a cheap core 97 in the interim to get the linkages set up. The bottom of the Big 97s are opened up a bit more and share an open space rather than 2 seperate holes. I imagine this is how they get 55% more cfm over a standard 97, but in the same body and footprint.

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Next to the 1 barrel Carter, the 2 barrel shows the size of them plenum more realistically, and it doesnt look nearly as big i think.

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I was going to start planning out a linkage with a bellcrank and homemade bracketry because i figured the stock one was long gone and probably also wouldnt work with the intake and exhaust, but other than having to widen the brackets a smidge or move it over a hair to clear that last exhaust tube, it shouldnt take much to get it to work at all.
I made a post over on the prewar Buick aaca forums and was sent some bery helpful pictures of the stock stuff and how it was configured, and managed to find the brackets but will have to sourxe the replacement hardware and cotter pins, and i would have to make new rods anyways
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When ive seen dual carb straight 8s and 6s they seem to use the front carb to connect the pedal, i seem to have plenty of room to use either with the rod running between the exhaust and intake runners
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Then got the Plymouth back on the ground to see how it all looked with the changes and how it would sit, plus to do the taillights, i needed some room and to be able to step back to make sure they would be even. New Posies rear leafs, (was bag over leaf before) and stock cut out mustang front end with QA1 coilovers, instead of the Shockwave air springs that were in there.
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And i got a new old book after a month of shipping from a slightly drunk ebay purchase. Brooklands, Eduardian era and old cycle cars were some of my first car interests, and still are a big interest of mine, so stuff like this always grabs my interest
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BORING HOP YARD

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Christmas in September! The new carb will get you going down the path to finishing the intake. If you have access to a couple of
dial indicators, I would use them to assure both carbs open at the same time when your building your linkage set up. I would also make it adjustable at both carbs if possible. At some point you will be adjusting the flow of one carb to match the other, I would do this with the linkage disconnected to assure the linkage has no affect to the syncing of the carbs. Once your carbs are synced and you have the linkage opening at the same time you should be very close to having it dialed in. I would also make sure they both hitting wide open when you to the floor. You would want to leave horsepower on the table if one car wasn't wide open.
Looking at the book purchase it reminded me of a guy I used to work with that was a big "board track" fan.
He even hunted down some of the old track locations. I guess we had a bunch up here in the Northwest since lumber was cheap.
Looking forward to see what you come up with on the linkage.
Thank you for sharing.
Greg
 

Bob Heine

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When ive seen dual carb straight 8s and 6s they seem to use the front carb to connect the pedal, i seem to have plenty of room to use either with the rod running between the exhaust and intake runners
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Dan, I assume you are going to modify the mounting plates to match the Big97 and I also assume you know Speedway Motors has the vintage style multi-carb links. You could connect the rod from the pedal to that linkage anywhere between the carbs.
97 Linkage.jpg
 
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Stooge

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thanks guys! not many new shiny parts on this car, so it was a nice treat!
Im putting together a McMaster Carr order, and i think the linkage plan now is 10-32 rod, ( im getting a few sections of them for all of the linkages) with a heim joint from the stock pedal trunion bracket to the front carb with the quick connect ball rod end and on the out facing side, and use the lever bracket links with swivels to tie the carbs together with a piece of rod, on the brass throttle shafts that stick through the carb bodies. Like Greg mentioned, adjustability will be a big factor, and there were some tips on setting up the throttle brackets and lever arms, temporarily removing some springs for full range of motion, etc. i'll need to get the synchronizing tool/ gauge, but a good idea with the dial indicators! For the carburetor mounting surfaces, i am planning on some 1/2" plate, (2.75x3.75 i think my measurements were) ported to match the new baseplates and tapped for the mounting bolts, then welded to the intake. then if the need for a riser or spacer, i have the threaded holes and can just get longer studs ,(probably using long set screws) without having to do anything other than that.

The linkage that Bob posted is about what i am planning for the chokes, though im probably just going to the get the rod end pieces and a ball socket piece rather than a complete assembly since im guessing the length i'll need is pretty specific to this application. i would sort of like to retain the hand throttle just because and i have the piece for it, but the hand throttle would also make for a good choke and fits the dash already, but i could do a seperate choke under the dash and sort of out of sight.
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xtremek

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I like using the hand throttle as a choke lever. The GF has the choke mounted at the bottom of the dash. It's very inconvenient.
 
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Stooge

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Having the hand throttle as a choke has been the plan, but when i found the pieces for it that i didnt know i had, i started thinking about using it, or atleast having it work. I know its not a stock car, but i'd like to have some of the stock things working. There is an extra hole directly below the hand throttle knob (left of the steering wheel) that i could make use of. I dont know what its from, theres not supposed to be a hole there, most of the other buicks that year had an ashtray, but i only have the one ashtray on the passenger side, rather than one on each.
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Ohmthis

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Dan, great job on the slew of vehicles you’re working on! I like the dual carb set up on the Buick. I like how the intake manifold closely resembles the older aftermarket one. Keeping it look older really fits in on your build. Thanks for posting up your progress.
 

Monza Harry

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I'll throw my support in here for the less complex induction system, but the 3-4 or 5 carb set-up does have the win for visual impact, so with that said the others don't have to be functional, (just clean up some unrepairable cores) just throwing that out there! I have been reading a long thread on here [garage gallery] and have fallen behind on my reading here in the "Fab section" or I would have suggested to leave the bottom of your plenum removable and therefore tunable as to volume, so you could add/change some ducting to get the response you desire from your setup. Your current setup is still "tunable" but with more work unfortunately. You are making progress, and on three projects non the less!(y) The shelves is just plain "Good Carma" and good looking to boot. Thanks for sharing Harry
P.S. I personally wish you would sign your posts, (Bob, Frank, or even Tiny, ? etc.) as I can't come to address you as "Stooge" your work is counter intuitive to that title!
 
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Stooge

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Hah, yes my name is Dan. Since the forum update, i can just upload directly instead of using flickr, who would put my name at the bottom of the picture, so its not plastered all over my posts anymore.
Dan, great job on the slew of vehicles you’re working on! I like the dual carb set up on the Buick. I like how the intake manifold closely resembles the older aftermarket one. Keeping it look older really fits in on your build. Thanks for posting up your progress.

Thanks guys! My little arbitrary rule or theme is to sort of keep what would have been available around 1950 or so, to try and keep focused a bit and for the most part, keeps projects and parts simple and budget friendly, ( "Instead of this trick billet widget from the catalog, i can just use this lowbuck thing from the hardware store") Swap meets being pretty scarce the last yr and a half, made it a little harder, but i think its headed in the right direction. I think the only real exceptions are mainly the dual master cylinder for safety, (doesnt take much more than once of losing brakes with a single chamber to want a little backup) but it uses the stock pedal and transmission side mounts, a modern battery but still 6volt, (6volt optima), and ive been planning on using bias ply looking radials for road, (probably Diamondback Auburn Deluxe).

hard to not sort of lean towards a 1950s build when you see stuff like this!
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And got a few pieces in for the linkage, should work well, though im going to find a 97 core so i can finish the carb to carb linkage and hold off on buying the other new one until its closer to starting it.
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I'll throw my support in here for the less complex induction system, but the 3-4 or 5 carb set-up does have the win for visual impact, so with that said the others don't have to be functional, (just clean up some unrepairable cores) just throwing that out there! I have been reading a long thread on here [garage gallery] and have fallen behind on my reading here in the "Fab section" or I would have suggested to leave the bottom of your plenum removable and therefore tunable as to volume, so you could add/change some ducting to get the response you desire from your setup. Your current setup is still "tunable" but with more work unfortunately. You are making progress, and on three projects non the less!(y) The shelves is just plain "Good Carma" and good looking to boot. Thanks for sharing Harry
P.S. I personally wish you would sign your posts, (Bob, Frank, or even Tiny, ? etc.) as I can't come to address you as "Stooge" your work is counter intuitive to that title!

Thanks! My friend loved the shelves and i may be making a couple for someone else who saw them.
the 4 single barrels definitely would have been cool, but for wanting to take this car on some 1000+ mile driving trips, might not have been the best way to go. With the new Strombergs and the parts availability for them if anything happens, and basing the idea on what was available stock and aftermarket, it should be a little more realistic, im hoping! The plenum still is open, in those pictures the intake is upside down since i wanted to really clean up any weld seams on the inside bottom and make the floor of it smooth to keep the fuel moving and not pooling in a seam, and weld in the lid since that seam wont be able to get cleaned up, but nothing can pool up on the interior ceiling. i was thinking, i cant really make the plenum exterior narrower since the carb base has to fit, but i could make the interior a little narrower with a piece of split tubing on the inside of the outward facing side, but i have to see where the carb base holes are and if there is space, or need.

"You are making progress, and on three projects non the less!"
I was almost going to correct you with 4 projects, but the neglected truck hasnt seen much progress lately!:D

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Stooge

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Ok, so now that the can of worms has been opened, where did "Stooge" come from?

A lifelong favorite show and i've been goofing off my way through life and probably dont take things as seriously as i should?
But also, my old name on the now dead C10forum was Muttley, after wacky races, but i think there was already a Muttley on either here of the HAMB, sand i thought stooge was a good one! its alright! 😎
 

Monza Harry

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Dec 29, 2018
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Windsor ON
Hah, yes my name is Dan. Since the forum update, i can just upload directly instead of using flickr, who would put my name at the bottom of the picture, so its not plastered all over my posts anymore. That does seem familiar.


Thanks guys! My little arbitrary rule or theme is to sort of keep what would have been available around 1950 or so, to try and keep focused a bit and for the most part, keeps projects and parts simple and budget friendly, ( "Instead of this trick billet widget from the catalog, i can just use this low-buck thing from the hardware store") Swap meets being pretty scarce the last yr and a half, made it a little harder, but i think its headed in the right direction. I think the only real exceptions are mainly the dual master cylinder for safety, (doesn't take much more than once of losing brakes with a single chamber to want a little backup) but it uses the stock pedal and transmission side mounts, a modern battery but still 6volt, (6volt optima), and I've been planning on using bias ply looking radials for road, (probably Diamondback Auburn Deluxe).

hard to not sort of lean towards a 1950s build when you see stuff like this!

And got a few pieces in for the linkage, should work well, though I'm going to find a 97 core so i can finish the carb to carb linkage and hold off on buying the other new one until its closer to starting it.

Thanks! My friend loved the shelves and I may be making a couple for someone else who saw them.
the 4 single barrels definitely would have been cool, but for wanting to take this car on some 1000+ mile driving trips, might not have been the best way to go. With the new Stromberg's and the parts availability for them if anything happens, and basing the idea on what was available stock and aftermarket, it should be a little more realistic, I'm hoping! The plenum still is open, in those pictures the intake is upside down since i wanted to really clean up any weld seams on the inside bottom and make the floor of it smooth to keep the fuel moving and not pooling in a seam, and weld in the lid since that seam wont be able to get cleaned up, but nothing can pool up on the interior ceiling. i was thinking, i cant really make the plenum exterior narrower since the carb base has to fit, but i could make the interior a little narrower with a piece of split tubing on the inside of the outward facing side, but i have to see where the carb base holes are and if there is space, or need.

"You are making progress, and on three projects non the less!"
I was almost going to correct you with 4 projects, but the neglected truck hasn't seen much progress lately!:D

Ah I forgot the Plymouth and you even mentioned that one in one of your posts that I had to catch up reading! The mind is the first to go, and I can't see or hear, D@mn the end is near! o_O :eek: :shocking: I better get welding and machining! You have plenty of real estate for a few more "Dummy Carbs" is all I was suggesting for the ever important I popping effects. It is pretty cool either way, I remembered your first vision was a 4 pack of carbs and is still doable and maybe even practical [as a '38 straight 8 can be]. Thank You Dan [Bob & X as well] and now which show is that you mention from which your "Handle" comes from? Harry
 
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Stooge

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Mar 24, 2013
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South Shore, MA
So this is what i've come up with so far to try and move this intake project along,
First made some flange plates out of 1/2" plate, drilled and tapped 5/16-18, and used set screws as studs to keep things simple and so if i wanted to add a spacer/ riser, getting longer set screws and swapping them out would be nice and easy
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I even bought a new hole saw for this. The bottom of the Big 97's have a a massaged base plate and the holes intersect, so i just used the accompanying gasket to mark it out and made to intersecting 1.5" holes and did the rest with a die grinder. these will get welded in and blended to make it look like 1 piece.
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I bought a 97 out of the HAMB classifieds from someone on friday and i had it in hands on my monday from California to Boston. Also grabbed some 10-32 rod to play with, (some of this will get replaced with non threaded rods when its permanent) some lever arms and return springs,( this way i dont have to use seperate springs, these just clip onto the lever arm, though i may have to have one on the long linkage rod from the pedal to the pedal bracket) from Stromberg and a handful of the rod ends from Speedway.

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I still need to widen or move over the pedal trunion brackets to clear the exhaust tube, but that should be simple enough

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I'm not sure if i will try and use the hand throttle knob on the dash for the choke or just put a dedicated choke under the dash. Under the dash would probably work better since it would be in line with the choke, but the hand throttle lever to the left of the steering wheel is already there and will look a little cleaner i think, but trying to retain the hand throttle function would be kind of cool i think.

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Im going to try and get the rest of the intake welded together this weekend, so it should look like something soon!
 
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Stooge

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A vapor blast cabinet would have that second carb looking as shiny as the other in no time at all...
Erik A

It looks like someone sandblasted it at some point and painted the baseplate and linkages black, (some of them were assembled backwards or upside down). I havent opened it up, probably needs a rebuild but looks pretty clean overall, but its just a place holder to get the rest of the intake finished, and make up the linkages, and will be replaced by another Big 97 when im closer to starting it.
 
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Stooge

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A cable would be easier to route through the underside of the dash with the bracketry and the mechanism for the cowl vent and handle, but i have more confidence in a linkage/ rod with the push/ pull of 2 carburetor chokes. I found a matching knob the other day, not sure what its from but it matches the other knobs in design and age, so i could do something with that i think and have it not look super out place around the dash. I dont want to drill a hole in the dash for it, but a thin rod thats bent to clear whatever obstructions and mounted to the bottom of the dash and out of the way should be doable though.
 
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Stooge

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Spent probably 13+hrs over the weekend working on getting the intake a little further along. Alot of that time was getting the inside all sealed up and smoothed out from all of the seams. I dont know if this was the correct method, but i found using the tig torch without filler and melt the interior seams in then going over it with some sanding discs and the air belt sander worked pretty good and wasnt as much work as having to grind down a lot of filler in hard to reach areas. I ran out of wire doing the mounting pads so there is some more to do on those, and i have alot of sanding and prettying it up before they get coated, but definitely in the home stretch! I'll play with the pedal bracket this week sometime and get it hooked up so i can sit in the car and pretend
:rolleyes:


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I didnt take many process pictures, it was filthy work and i was trying not to reach in my pockets and stuff too much, but while i was working on smoothing out the inner seams

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For not really much forethought about how the pedal and accelerator rod would work, it should really be pretty easy to get lined up and working, just a happy accident!

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No pictures of it, but i found some time and tore the rear end and leaf springs out of the Edsel. We were planning on getting new springs, but these seem to be in good shape so we'll get them cleaned up and try and use them. Im not too sure about the rear end or what gearing it has. 1958 Edsel Villager wagon, smaller lug pattern 5x4.5, i think some were 5x5.5 or 5x5, i've heard they are basically a ford 9 with funny, non interchangeable brakes, but i'll have to do some research. We're fine with drum brakes in the back so it will just be refreshing what is there, new bushings and shackles, U bolts and shocks. It has a funny rear mount in the form of a U shaped leaf spring looking bracket the hangs down and accepts the upper shackle. It seems like it's made to articulate to an extent, so maybe some sort of overload or load assist type thing? maybe an edsel thing, or maybe a wagon thing? I'll try and remember to get a picture of it.
 

BORING HOP YARD

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Boring Oregon
Very easy to tell the amount of fab work that has gone into both manifolds.
The intake came out great! You have by far the bulk of the heavy lifting done.
Looking forward to seeing completed when the time is right.
Thank you for sharing!
 
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