Storing a newly machined engine block (how do you prevent rusting)

[spyghost]

Hi,

I got a couple of engine blocks that have been stripped down of internals.

Basically, oil that's sticking into the surface would prevent rust.

After machining them, it would take sometime before they are again rebuilt. As for storage, getting them wet all over with oil and bagging them in a sealed trash bag would somehow prevent rust, but what about the water jackets? Oil in the water jackets is not a good idea right?

 

[e-tek]

You always spray them down with WD40 and put them in a black garbage bag, sealed with tape. It's not enough to cause any issues in the water jackets and will be diluted in the rad system.

 

[ForceFed70]

When I did this last, I double-baged with garbage bags and emptied 1/2 can of penatrating lubricant (WD40) all over it.

A little oil in the water jackets won't hurt anything.

 

[BillK]

spy,
The biggest thing is to keep them in an area where the temperature does not change much. I have crankshafts that were machined 10 years ago and still look like the day they were done. They are in clear bags with some wd40 but the most important thing is that we keep the shop between 70 and 75 degrees year round. I have seen blocks that were stored in unheated garages and look like scrap metal after 6 months Putting them in a plastic bag actually seems to make it worse if there are going to be big temperature swings. In those conditions I almost think you are better off oiling it down and just sitting it in the corner uncovered.

 

[RPH]

Cosmoline and other storage sprays are available. These go on thick and jell. Some have a self healing feature if they getwiped they will reflow. Eastwood,woodcrafters and others. Boat stores would have it for winter storage. They work much better than WD40.
Clean up easy too!

 

[2drx4]

LPS makes a great product, I think it's #2... Goes on wet like WD-40, but it dries into a thick waxy film. I use it to coat lots of stuff that I plan to store for a bit. Comes off easily with a little solvent afterwards.

 

[ZRX61]

Local race shop uses ATF....

 

[A1an]

I stored a 302 shortblock on my back porch in FL (covered but heavy humidity levels). I sprayed the bare metal surfaces down with WD40 and immediately put cling wrap over those surfaces (to help keep moisture off the surface and keep critters from crawling inside). Then I double wrapped the motor in garbage bags. Probably overkill but I figured given the harsh conditions this motor would be stored in I couldn't be too safe. Uncovered it 8-months later to take photos for a classified ad and it had no rust whatsoever.

 

[larry_g]

http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?p=1072783#post1072783

See posts 10&11 in the above thread. Cortec makes an emitter film that is great stuff as well as the emitter cups.

lg
no neat sig line

 

[wfochris]

VCI bags. That and the LP mentioned above are what Toyota puts their service machined parts (cams, cranks, blocks, etc) in.

 

[trbomax]

I think the LPS is #3.Fogging oil is good, spray chain lube is very simaler to the LPS,it sprays thin and turns to grease.Amsol makes a product called "heavy duty metal protecter" that is also like the LPS.Sit them off any concrete on 4x4's with plastic sheet directly on the concrete under them.Cover with an old sheet to keep dirt off and allow breathing.

 

[NUTTSGT]

WD-40 seems to evaporate after a while. I'd used regular engine oil on the bores, I have one block that I actually greased the bores.

 

[trbomax]

The problem with "regular engine oil" Is that it has detergent additives.These detergents absorbe moisture and then precipitate it out of the solution as a salt.As such,it is hevier than the oil and collects between the oil film and the metal you are trying to protect. Try this............wipe down a clean piece of steel with your favorite 10w-30,then place it in a humid or moist area. Come back in a week. The white mess that is all over it???,thats a precipitated salt of the detergent additive. Leave it a month,and the base metal will be rusty wherever the oil is,still oily,but rusty below the film.

 

[NUTTSGT]

The problem with "regular engine oil" Is that it has detergent additives.These detergents absorbe moisture and then precipitate it out of the solution as a salt.As such,it is hevier than the oil and collects between the oil film and the metal you are trying to protect. Try this............wipe down a clean piece of steel with your favorite 10w-30,then place it in a humid or moist area. Come back in a week. The white mess that is all over it???,thats a precipitated salt of the detergent additive. Leave it a month,and the base metal will be rusty wherever the oil is,still oily,but rusty below the film.

That I didn't know. Mine are coated and have a plastic bag over them sitting ona HF mover's dolley. The bag just covers the block and is open at the bottom for them to breath. Luckily in the winter, with the wood burner, it is very very dry in the garage, I have no problem with humidty.

 

[strelnik]

WD-40 seems to evaporate after a while. I'd used regular engine oil on the bores, I have one block that I actually greased the bores.

Believe it or not, when Detroit Diesel used to store big blocks, they coated the unpainted surfaces with Crisco! Personally, any inexpensive grease works well, keep it warm and apply with a turkey baster brush for 1.00 at the supermarket.

And while you're there, would you pick me up some milk?

 

[CamarosRus]

fluid film

 

[slowtwitch]

Local race shop uses ATF....

x's 2 on ATF..

 

[saabman]

WD40 for protecting the block works great for me in the Northeast.

 

[Bigpigdave]

I would suggest that you wait until you are closer to rebuilding the engines to have them machined. You are correct that oil that is already on surfaces will keep it form rusting, also if any rust did form it would be machined away. Also, if there are any problems with the machining (sizing problems) you are more likely to find them during assembly. It will be much easier to get a machine shop to fix problems if it has not been a significant period of time from when the work was done. Also if you don't have the parts that are going into the rebuild it is almost impossible to machine the engine correctly. Good luck with your projects.
JMO, Dave

 

[bdkruger1]

X 3 on LPS.

 

[APEowner]

I spray them down with a 50/50 mix of ATF and CRC 3-36 and stick them in a bag with a 125 gram desiccant bag. Last year I pulled a 351w block out of storage that I had bagged that way over 10 years ago and it looked just like it had when I stored it.