Stud extractors

[signcrafter]

After this incident, http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=282668, I want to pick up a stud extractor to help pull out broken studs. Where the downpipe connects to the turbo it has 4 studs in the turbo and nuts to hold the downpipe onto the turbo. I went to remove the nuts and the studs snapped off leaving about 1/2" sticking out of the turbo flange. I was able to remove one by welding a nut on it. Another one I tried to use a bolt grip and it snapped below the surface of the turbo flange. So I need to drill that one now.

But others recommended a stud extractor to get them out instead of welding nuts onto them. So looking to pick up a set to have on hand for times this happens, can never have enough options for crappy situations like this. I have been doing some looking and came across a few different options and wondering which one is best? Do these work good on broken studs that have 1/2" or so sticking out?

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00265M8N4/?tag=atomicindus08-20

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B000K1KHB6/?tag=atomicindus08-20

Is one type better then the other? Because when you need to use these you are already having a bad day with broken fasteners so want to make sure what I get will be the best chance to make my day better. Open to other options as well.

 

[n8n]

I've never used the former but the latter look a lot like the old Stahlwille ones with which I've had good luck. However the weld a nut on trick also applies heat which can help too; I'm not sure if any stud extractor is better than the nut method.

 

[woodstockva]

Try this out....

Torch + Knipex Cobras + Wax + Hammer = DONE!

<iframe width="560" height="315" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/cTRUXRv2HFs" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>

 

[G1GRANDEUR]

I have the 2nd style, work as it should.

But if you apply too much torque, cam inside will also break. So if it's really stuck, I don't think those tool will work well.

 

[firebox40dash5]

I've used the Mayhew version of the backwards-chuck. Works like a champ with heat and an impact. Doesn't tend to live long in front of the impact, but hey, it's almost always cheaper than the alternative anyway.

The cam ones haven't worked so great for me on seized stuff, and IMO they're harder to use since you have to keep constant tension so they don't let go.

Also used internal tapered flute extractors. But by design they're gripping at the end, where the chuck is gripping at the base, so they're more prone to snapping more off. You can also count on destroying one if you use it on a really hot (like nearly glowing) stud.

 

[Art From De Leon]

The Gear Wrench ones look like the ones I bought from Snap on.

The best way I have found to remove broken off bolts that have at least a little showing, is to apply heat, and use a 6" pipe wrench.

**** Vise-Grips, you can NEVER get them tight enough to bite.

 

[signcrafter]

So the stud extractors don't won't that great? If the bolt is stuck the bolt is stuck? I don't have a real torch, just a mapp gas hand held torch.

 

[woodstockva]

So the stud extractors don't won't that great? If the bolt is stuck the bolt is stuck? I don't have a real torch, just a mapp gas hand held torch.

Mapp gas will heat it up enough....propane probably would not.

No need for a huge torch setup for once in a while jobs. I used the method I showed above to remove an almost identical broken off stud from a Ford Ranger exhaust manifold (with the Knipex pliers, wax, and a hammer).

 

[G1GRANDEUR]

small torch will do the job, just take longer.

also try usingkroil or some say ATF and Acetone 50/50 mix is better than anything else out there.

 

[Buckgnarly]

Nothing beats oxy acetylene, nothing. I would invest in a good set of torches before screwing around with extractors.
That said, I have all extractors that you listed and you can NEVER have to many options, but real torches are just something that is needed if you see rusty ****.

 

[zkling]

Depends on location, size, how tight. Double nut and a wrench works pretty good, but the nuts end up trashed. When I was into vintage MX i had to remove alot of studs and if a pipe wrench couldn't get a good grab, welding a nut or larger diameter bushing on was about the only option. The cam type extractors work OK on the larger ~3/8" diameter studs that are used on jugs the like. Unfortunately in my experience and this is particularly true with exhaust components in the <.25" range; the ones that are really rusted and seized end up shearing off at the thread root before the male/female threads let go.

 

[firebox40dash5]

Heat is going to be what gives you the win here... it'll be the difference between something working, and nothing working.

Personally, I'd look at borrowing/renting/buying at least a small oxy/ace setup. I've heard the little pony tanks don't cut or weld worth ****, but you should be able to heat, it's not really rocket surgery. Hell... HD/Lowes sells the little kits that use 1lb. oxy bottles, which generally **** because they're unregulated and thus difficult to set and keep the mix right, but that might even be worth a look.

skang and woodstock might be right, MAPP might do the job. I've tried it in the shop and run out of patience, but I had a torch cart 40' away. I know I wouldn't be wanting to try to quickly heat a cast iron turbo housing enough with a little fuel-only torch.

 

[AlexGennette]

The Gear Wrench ones look like the ones I bought from Snap on.

The best way I have found to remove broken off bolts that have at least a little showing, is to apply heat, and use a 6" pipe wrench.

**** Vise-Grips, you can NEVER get them tight enough to bite.

Which ones did you buy from snap on?

 

[Skin]

Mapp gas will heat it up enough....propane probably would not.

No need for a huge torch setup for once in a while jobs. I used the method I showed above to remove an almost identical broken off stud from a Ford Ranger exhaust manifold (with the Knipex pliers, wax, and a hammer).

Depending on what you're heating "MAPP Pro" and Propane wont touch large pieces of metal including broken studs in engine blocks and beefy down pipe flanges like in the video you posted. Mapp Pro also has a negligibly hotter tip temp. You need oxy acetylene or you'll be there all day and you'll just end up tearing the stud up. The issue is the metal acts like a big heat sink.


Snap-On has an exclusive supply on the best stud removal and installation sets but they cost a small fortune. They're made by a small company in NY if I remember right. These are the guys

http://buy1.snapon.com/catalog/tools.asp?tool=all&Group_ID=675443&store=snapon-store

You still need heat the vast majority of the time though.

 

[signcrafter]

No oxy acetylene torches so for now that is out. I'm going to keep trying to weld a nut on the one stud still sticking out and hope I can get good penetration and have it hold. Will also try some wax while it's hot. Just thought maybe a stud extractor would help get them out.

 

[n8n]

No oxy acetylene torches so for now that is out. I'm going to keep trying to weld a nut on the one stud still sticking out and hope I can get good penetration and have it hold. Will also try some wax while it's hot. Just thought maybe a stud extractor would help get them out.

The important thing is not to put a bending load on the stud, but the heat and wax are really your friends here. The studs are breaking primarily because the threads of the stud are locked by corrosion, galling, whatever to the threads of both the nuts and the manifold, and you are exceeding the yield strength of the stud before you apply enough torque to the stud to break the corrosion bond, otherwise they'd have backed right out. So, yes, a Stahlwille style stud extractor, maybe on a wobble extension, will help you not apply that bending load and help you a little tiny bit. However the chances of success on vice-grips vs. good stud extractor are less significant than those same chances unlubricated/unheated vs. heated up with a torch and lubed.

 

[jgorm]

I use a big pipe wrench. Works great!

 

[Pop larking]

Wax? Does that really work better than penetration fluid? Never thought of wax before

 

[Jlbc212]

I use my MAPP torch often to break free nuts & bolts. Heat up the stuck item and spray it with PB Blaster. Go do something else for awhile. Heat it up and spray again. Let it cool again. Repeat several times. Heat and spray again and try to break free while it's still hot.

 

[Jlbc212]

I use a big pipe wrench. Works great!

I often use a small pipe wrench. Does anyone make a thin one?

 

[HairMetal]

Stud extractors/installers are meant to keep threads intact, Knipex cobras are fine if you're just trying to remove something and you don't mind destroying the studs.

 

[HairMetal]

Wax? Does that really work better than penetration fluid? Never thought of wax before

Paraffin

 

[Skin]

Wax? Does that really work better than penetration fluid? Never thought of wax before

Both work well. Wax is probably better for your lungs. Anti-seize also works well.