I was just wondering, im about to pull the trigger on a puma PK6560V. I have a well insulated pole barn but not full time heat. Is it ok to leave your compressor on while its winter months with freezing temps? Sometimes I wont work out there for a week. I do have heat but I only heat it when im working. Not full time heat. I just think the moisture inside the tank will freeze or the cold temps could hurt the motor...any insight??
Stupid question..Can you leave your compressor on with sub zero temps outside?
- Thread starter toyoguy81
- Start date
LEVE
Well-known member
I'd sure leave it off unless you can insure there's no moisture in the system. That's a tall order.
gahrajmahal
Well-known member
Switch out the oil for synthetic. Much more stable with temp extremes and sitting idle. It will not absorb moisture like Dino oil. If you have some water in the tank bottom and it freezes, so what?
malibu101
Well-known member
Are you saying you would leave it powered up even if you are not using it for a week?
Call me paranoid but I make sure mine is off everytime I leave (almost
)
I case something would burst I don't want it running balls out until I discover it.
Call me paranoid but I make sure mine is off everytime I leave (almost
) I case something would burst I don't want it running balls out until I discover it.
CADPoint
Well-known member
I'd send a letter to their sales agent and get it from the horses mouth.
I read the manual and while it seems quite complete no temperature limits where mentioned but it did say to;
9-2：Be sure to drain the water from the air tank.
http://www.pumaairusa.com/
I read the manual and while it seems quite complete no temperature limits where mentioned but it did say to;
9-2：Be sure to drain the water from the air tank.
http://www.pumaairusa.com/
Jagmandave
Well-known member
Mine doesn't like to start up when it's really cold, it struggles to get up to speed so I leave it off in winter unless I'm going to use it. No way I'd leave it cycling in really cold weather - I'd shut it off. It doesn't take that long to fill the tank again when I need it.
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slip knot
Well-known member
Why are your compressors cycling when they are not being used? Mine is never turned off and it never runs unless I'm running tools. You guys need to control your leaks.
SALIV8
Well-known member
Are you saying you would leave it powered up even if you are not using it for a week?
Call me paranoid but I make sure mine is off everytime I leave (almost
I case something would burst I don't want it running balls out until I discover it.
I had a compressor motor short out and and burn up when I wasn't around. I left it on for a couple years thinking all was fine, and didn't realize I was a ******* for doing this... I believe the safety popped and it ran nonstop, but not never could prove this. Found out what happened because my garage door wouldn't open one day and it was on the same circuit. I got lucky no fire started...
Needless to say, I never leave my compressor powered up anymore.
Plane Crazy
Well-known member
- Joined
- Sep 12, 2009
- Messages
- 136
I always turn OFF the power to the air compressor
when finished
one time a line blew off
Don't know how long to ran that way
we were gone all weekend
heard the compressor running, and running
checked on it
The paint had blistered off most of the compressor it was So hot
when finished
one time a line blew off
Don't know how long to ran that way
we were gone all weekend
heard the compressor running, and running
checked on it
The paint had blistered off most of the compressor it was So hot
soj
Well-known member
Whether you leave it powered up or not shouldn't have any effect on the water in the tank. Like most others here, I turn mine off when I leave the shop for the day. I leave my automatic tank drain on 24/7, it opens for 1/2 second every 45 minutes, so never any water accumulation in my tank. With a manual drain, just open it long enough to get the water out, then close it. Any little bit of water left, if it freezes, it won't hurt a thing.
Boilerhouse
Well-known member
I think it is a good idea to keep your compressor off if unattended for stretches. I don't believe that home shop compressors have a 100% duty cycle. I have heard through forums like this that a few garage compressors have had a line blow apart, ran continuously, and over heated to the point that they created a fire.
From hearing and seeing even the best systems have problems, I use a 12 hr timer set for my approximate need since the late 70s Plus, I unplug it from the timer. Before the timer it was common to hear the compressed come on in the garage. Too many places to have a small vs a large leak. With quick couplings and cut-off valves, plumbed in the garage and to the back Car-Port.
The replacement from Granger was a mistake from too many recepticles too close vs a bad timer. Replaced at no charge, I returned it sealed and they insisted I keep it vs returning it.
The replacement from Granger was a mistake from too many recepticles too close vs a bad timer. Replaced at no charge, I returned it sealed and they insisted I keep it vs returning it.
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Kevin54
MEMBER EMERITUS
If it were me, I would enclose the compressor in a small insulated room of it's own, then possibly put one of those small oil radiators in there. My wife uses one in her 20x20 building, and she can keep it between 65 and 70f when it is zero or below outside. It has 2x6 walls and is totally insulated with R19 and R30.
So if you build a small insulated room for your compressor, and a small oil filled radiator, you should be great to go.
So if you build a small insulated room for your compressor, and a small oil filled radiator, you should be great to go.
alwaysFlOoReD
Well-known member
IMO;
in tank frozen water won't hurt.
frozen motor won't hurt.
frozen compressor puts excessive load on motor. I use a battery blanket on the compressor and plug it in 1/2 hour before turning on compressor. This is on a portable 30 gallon 2hp twin piston pump that I use for construction. The battery blanket is on the head but I wish I could place it on the sump. Works fine to -20C
Richard
in tank frozen water won't hurt.
frozen motor won't hurt.
frozen compressor puts excessive load on motor. I use a battery blanket on the compressor and plug it in 1/2 hour before turning on compressor. This is on a portable 30 gallon 2hp twin piston pump that I use for construction. The battery blanket is on the head but I wish I could place it on the sump. Works fine to -20C
Richard
coljar
Well-known member
The Kellogg-American compressor in my old garage has been in an unheated room and in continuous use since 1946 and has never been apart, but is on it's 3rd tank. Do the math. It has 30W oil and gets changed when I take a notion. It's never left switched on when nobody's at the shop.
Sorry guys let me clarify, I have mine wired ti electrical disconnect, what i meant is when im not in there working, it will be off but the tank will not be empty of air, i dont want to have to run it on everytime i go out there just to get it full of air. I was just wondering if the moisture would freeze is it bad.?
You WILL have a problem if you run compressor for years and never drain the water, and let the entire tank fill with water, then let that water-filled tank freeze !!
Game plan should be drain tank often, and drain BEFORE letting it sit for long period in freezing temp garage.
Compressor will appreciate some heat in shop before firing it up, but won't prevent it from working. I've had old compressor that needed trouble light sitting next to head to warm up oil before it wanted to run . . . but it had OLD oil in there. Compressors like fresh oil just like cars !
Game plan should be drain tank often, and drain BEFORE letting it sit for long period in freezing temp garage.
Compressor will appreciate some heat in shop before firing it up, but won't prevent it from working. I've had old compressor that needed trouble light sitting next to head to warm up oil before it wanted to run . . . but it had OLD oil in there. Compressors like fresh oil just like cars !
LS6 Tommy
Well-known member
My freebie Craftsman oiless compressor has been in my unheated, uninsulated garage for over 15 years and it was in the insulated, only heated during use race shop for at least 5 years before that. It's always been drained, turned off & empty at the race shop. It's just turned off & drained in my garage.
Tommy
Tommy
ford33
Well-known member
I have my compressor connected everyday. It is outside in Chicago weather. I do use 30 w synthetic compressor oil from Amsoil and drain the tank of water every 2 - 3 weeks. In winter the water freezes in the tank but I don't care. There is so little moisture in the air during the winter season the amount of water in the tank is minimal. Winter air humidity makes for nice dry compressed air.
Charles (in GA)
Well-known member
The problem with leaving water standing in the bottom of the tank is that it will freeze, and very possibly crack your drain valve. I have a 3/8 street ell and an extension tube on my compressor, with a ball valve at the end of the tube. Water freezing in the 12 inch tube could easily split it open.
There are all kinds of heat pads made that can be bonded to the side of the compressor pump crankcase to keep it warm. Orange silicone pads with heating elements in them. Plug this into a thermal switch so the heat pad comes on at 35°F or so and you will never have a problem. Use synthetic oil also. Moisture DOES combine with synthetic oil. My compressor calls for Mobil 1 for the extended service life of 15,000 hrs, and I have to change it every ten months or so, as it turns milky white from moisture.
Charles
There are all kinds of heat pads made that can be bonded to the side of the compressor pump crankcase to keep it warm. Orange silicone pads with heating elements in them. Plug this into a thermal switch so the heat pad comes on at 35°F or so and you will never have a problem. Use synthetic oil also. Moisture DOES combine with synthetic oil. My compressor calls for Mobil 1 for the extended service life of 15,000 hrs, and I have to change it every ten months or so, as it turns milky white from moisture.
Charles
Lassen Forge
Well-known member
Mine is inside my shop where it goes to 30 or below on the average 4-5 months out of the year... when I'm done I shut it down and drain it, when I fire the shop up I heat the shop, then repressurize the system... Sure, it takes 15 minutes to get the system back up to pressure, but it takes tha long to get the coffee pot to brew a cup of coffee as well...
The times I've tried to leave it pressurized overnight, starting in the AM took as long to get the compressor motor to catch and keep running, plus numerous resets of the motor, etc... Mind you I'm single, not 3 phase, and 110 to boot, but still... When I shut it down, drain the tanks down, and then fire it up the next day it fires right up.
The times I've tried to leave it pressurized overnight, starting in the AM took as long to get the compressor motor to catch and keep running, plus numerous resets of the motor, etc... Mind you I'm single, not 3 phase, and 110 to boot, but still... When I shut it down, drain the tanks down, and then fire it up the next day it fires right up.
My Eagle has been on 24/7 like 20yrs till very recently & it gets below 0 here in the central zone, sits in a unheated detached work shop. I have ran full syn in everything since 2000 though.
Its very air tight so unless I forget & leave my air chuck/blowgun, impact gun Etc on the hose end it rarely ever kicks on. It really holds air in good especially having a 50ft Goodyear hose/Cox reel setup on 24/7. I taped any fittings that failed bubble test when I bought it & when if removed. I dont use pipe dope fwiw. My dad was I pipefitter so as kids we got drafted as helpers on his side jobs so we often ran tape on pipe/fittings.
But to really learn the pipe tape trade
I went to work in plastics at age 17 (making Ma Bell phone parts) & soon I began mold setup/machine repair. Even small molds can have 12+ water/air line fittings to tape up.
After rolling tape on pipe daily for decades one almost learns the good/bad/ugly's of it.
One secret is unless its a must, never use todays thin **** see through China tape which I know is about all one sees. Might as well use cellophane as that chits garbage, hell it even frustrates guys like me with a pipe tape degree
.
I use Oatey Grey tape, its thicker like our old school tape, bit tacky which helps you start it fwiw.
My Eagle Compressors motor is a 115a (FLA-15) SPL "5hp" (2.67hp?) from China, can you imagine? Its an Eagle brand motor, Im surprised it lasted half this long as hard as its been worked at times but its certainly tired now. Damn good Compressor so no complaints whatsoever.
Anyway, its never had issues in cold, maybe the syn helps here idk? Keeping air in keeps run time down.
Peace
Its very air tight so unless I forget & leave my air chuck/blowgun, impact gun Etc on the hose end it rarely ever kicks on. It really holds air in good especially having a 50ft Goodyear hose/Cox reel setup on 24/7. I taped any fittings that failed bubble test when I bought it & when if removed. I dont use pipe dope fwiw. My dad was I pipefitter so as kids we got drafted as helpers on his side jobs so we often ran tape on pipe/fittings.
But to really learn the pipe tape trade
I went to work in plastics at age 17 (making Ma Bell phone parts) & soon I began mold setup/machine repair. Even small molds can have 12+ water/air line fittings to tape up. After rolling tape on pipe daily for decades one almost learns the good/bad/ugly's of it.
One secret is unless its a must, never use todays thin **** see through China tape which I know is about all one sees. Might as well use cellophane as that chits garbage, hell it even frustrates guys like me with a pipe tape degree
. I use Oatey Grey tape, its thicker like our old school tape, bit tacky which helps you start it fwiw.
My Eagle Compressors motor is a 115a (FLA-15) SPL "5hp" (2.67hp?) from China, can you imagine? Its an Eagle brand motor, Im surprised it lasted half this long as hard as its been worked at times but its certainly tired now. Damn good Compressor so no complaints whatsoever.
Anyway, its never had issues in cold, maybe the syn helps here idk? Keeping air in keeps run time down.
Peace
Sometimes the drain freezes on mine during real cold weather. I just try to drain it before I leave.
I had to swap the breaker from a 20 to a 30 and it will chirp the belt when it first starts up.
My garage usually doesn't get much colder inside than 15-20 degrees during real cold spells.
I had to swap the breaker from a 20 to a 30 and it will chirp the belt when it first starts up.
My garage usually doesn't get much colder inside than 15-20 degrees during real cold spells.
firebirdparts
Well-known member
Even if it did freeze, it won't hurt it. The expansion just goes upward. Factory style drain valves are just not susceptible.
I had my air compressor in the well ventilated attic of my garage for many years. I'm in North Dakota so it gets a bit chilly. Once in a while the pressure switch froze open from moisture, but other than that, no issues. I ran 10w oil in it hoping for easier starts.
Lassen Forge
Well-known member
Nope - as above, shut it down, open the system, if you want to use it, fire it up, close the valves, go brew that aforementioned pot of coffee, and think of putting heat in your shop. In the (DAMN!) Twelve YEARS since I was the last post in this thread until today, nothing has changed (except it seems to get colder here in the Apenine Foothills overnight than it did in the southern Cascades all those years ago.)
My end of year project is going out today and blowing lines (down in the low 20's (F, not C - 20C is like springtime!) tonight - and so it begins....) from compressor to all my water systems, locking out the electrics, and draining the pressure and hot water tank in the shop...
Stay Toasty, my friends!!
My end of year project is going out today and blowing lines (down in the low 20's (F, not C - 20C is like springtime!) tonight - and so it begins....) from compressor to all my water systems, locking out the electrics, and draining the pressure and hot water tank in the shop...
Stay Toasty, my friends!!
nadogail
Well-known member
If you can keep the temperature of the oil high enough to keep it from congealing the cold temperatures should not be a problem.
sz0k30
Well-known member
I have a 60 gal, 5HP vertical compressor. Half-*** insulated pole barn, Overhead radiant tube heat only when I go in it, which isn't all that often. Compressor is always plugged in, with a ball valve just off the tank in closed position except when in use. Never had any problems!
rlitman
Well-known member
That's exactly why I use 5w30 synthetic in my compressor.
My compressor sits in a loft with the drain valve (a 1/2" ball valve) accessed by a handle hanging underneath it next to the drill press (a place I walk by a lot when I'm in the shop). I'm sure to run the drain at least once every time I'm in the shop, so I keep the tank as dry as possible. I've had times in the winter when I open the valve and nothing happens. That's all ice does to me. When it melts, the drain works again.
finn
Well-known member
I have a circa 1975 5hp Rand 4000, 1975 Craftsman 2hp, PC pancake, and a 60 gallon CH cheapie direct drive compressor in various sheds and garages that aren’t heated. Temperatures in the winter can get down to -20 F, but are more typically lows between zero and twenty. They’ve all been stored like that for years, and still function well.
I sometimes, but not always draining the water from the tanks, but never drain all the air. All have the power disconnected.
My main Champion 80 gallon compressor is in the heated shop. I always disconnect the power and close the ball valve on the outlet line when I leave for the day. The black iron pipe distribution system has enough leaks in inaccessible (to me, as I don’t do well with heights) that the system drains down with time if I don’t shut the ball valve.
Thinking about it, I wonder if the bowl on the filter / regulator might not be the system component most vulnerable to freezing damage.
I sometimes, but not always draining the water from the tanks, but never drain all the air. All have the power disconnected.
My main Champion 80 gallon compressor is in the heated shop. I always disconnect the power and close the ball valve on the outlet line when I leave for the day. The black iron pipe distribution system has enough leaks in inaccessible (to me, as I don’t do well with heights) that the system drains down with time if I don’t shut the ball valve.
Thinking about it, I wonder if the bowl on the filter / regulator might not be the system component most vulnerable to freezing damage.
micromind
Well-known member
A reciprocating compressor pump is much like a piston engine in that starting it when cold causes considerable wear.
I'd bet that starting a compressor when it's 10F would be that same as running it for 10 hours, maybe more.
I'd bet that starting a compressor when it's 10F would be that same as running it for 10 hours, maybe more.
finn
Well-known member
A quality compressor has what, a 30000 hour design life?
A cold start once or twice a week isn’t going to materially affect that life.
Wrench97
Well-known member
Won't hurt it at all, if you drain the tank regularly.
We had to leave the one on at the fleet shop 24/7 so drivers had access to air when the shop was closed it was mounted outside the back wall under roof to reduce noise in the shop when it got above freezing we pulled the drain cord to blow the moisture out.
That compressor was 35 years old when it finally blew up one weekend after someone cut the hose off to steal the tire inflator/gauge off the end...so much for having guards over the weekend....
Smilodon
Well-known member
In response to turning off your compressor when not using...
My non-commercial compressor has a Rube Goldberg lever-type switch on it which has failed and been replaced a couple of times over the years. A commonly used import part on a lot of inexpensive compressors.
Anyhow, it is so flaky, I've been having to *unplug* the compressor to be safe. Never found a high-quality one of these, and would prefer something completely different. But just one of those things I live with for whatever reason. I've been trying to find something better without spending a mint. Either a mechanism or an entirely different compressor.
My non-commercial compressor has a Rube Goldberg lever-type switch on it which has failed and been replaced a couple of times over the years. A commonly used import part on a lot of inexpensive compressors.
Anyhow, it is so flaky, I've been having to *unplug* the compressor to be safe. Never found a high-quality one of these, and would prefer something completely different. But just one of those things I live with for whatever reason. I've been trying to find something better without spending a mint. Either a mechanism or an entirely different compressor.
finn
Well-known member
Those lever style pressure switches are typically designed for lower power compressors, something like 3hp.In response to turning off your compressor when not using...
My non-commercial compressor has a Rube Goldberg lever-type switch on it which has failed and been replaced a couple of times over the years. A commonly used import part on a lot of inexpensive compressors.
Anyhow, it is so flaky, I've been having to *unplug* the compressor to be safe. Never found a high-quality one of these, and would prefer something completely different. But just one of those things I live with for whatever reason. I've been trying to find something better without spending a mint. Either a mechanism or an entirely different compressor.
One of my compressors has a 5hp (something the order of 19 amp) Lesson motor. The switch was damaged, probably in handling, but I don’t really recall. I stopped by a local compressor shop and they gave me one of those lever style pressure switches. It’s undersized, but I never got around to upgrading it. It’s been there for fifteen years. I don’t use air much in that building, and there’s an Eaton fused disconnect right above the pressure switch that I throw to disconnect power.
Another thing on the endless list I should address.
The original pressure switch didn’t have the lever.
My other compressor has a mag starter., although this one might too.