OP
Model A Fan
Well-known member
That makes sense...just put in a 240v 15A or 20A because they're cheap and use it as a space filler. Once a reasonably priced surge rolls along, swap them out. Thank you for the idea.
Sub-Panel in Garage-Adding 220v for Table Saw and Air Compressor
- Thread starter Model A Fan
- Start date
mike93lx
ALLIANCE MEMBER
I guess I was assuming that you had something 240v out there. That's what I meant using the spot for. If you want the spots open,just don't break out the cover tabs
OP
Model A Fan
Well-known member
So it's finally dried out enough to begin my project (also finally got some time too).
I have a concrete footing at the base of the barn wall. I've got two 45° pieces and couplers to navigate the angles I'll need to make. I'd appreciate any critique as to my plan. I'm going to use PVC pipe holders and drill into the concrete for screws. What kind of screw would be recommended? I'm guessing I'll be better off filling the screw hole with epoxy when I put the screw into the cement?
My next question comes from what to do about the conduit going into the main panel. Do I use a side hole since one exists already and use an LB at that location or come straight up from the bottom? The sides have knockouts for easy access. The bottom has small knockouts for much smaller wires. I have a metal cutting hole saw, so I could cut it, but I'm leaning toward the hole on the back of the breaker box and using an LB for it.
My hole is a little over 2' deep and I plan on laying the conduit then backfilling the trench.
I have a concrete footing at the base of the barn wall. I've got two 45° pieces and couplers to navigate the angles I'll need to make. I'd appreciate any critique as to my plan. I'm going to use PVC pipe holders and drill into the concrete for screws. What kind of screw would be recommended? I'm guessing I'll be better off filling the screw hole with epoxy when I put the screw into the cement?
My next question comes from what to do about the conduit going into the main panel. Do I use a side hole since one exists already and use an LB at that location or come straight up from the bottom? The sides have knockouts for easy access. The bottom has small knockouts for much smaller wires. I have a metal cutting hole saw, so I could cut it, but I'm leaning toward the hole on the back of the breaker box and using an LB for it.
My hole is a little over 2' deep and I plan on laying the conduit then backfilling the trench.
OP
Model A Fan
Well-known member
I'm just wondering what your opinion would be on this. You've been a big help and I'd appreciate your opinion/advice. Thank you.
mike93lx
ALLIANCE MEMBER
I would not use a bunch of fittings at the foundation. Come up with a 90 and make the conduit bend to work. A little heat gun might help. Fittings make pulling wire harder.
I also wouldn't fasten it at all to the wall unless the run is really long
Come straight up into the box. One less fitting and one less opportunity to have water get in the box
I also wouldn't fasten it at all to the wall unless the run is really long
Come straight up into the box. One less fitting and one less opportunity to have water get in the box
OP
Model A Fan
Well-known member
Thank you, I appreciate that. I'll bust out my heat gun and massage it into place. The run up the wall is maybe 6-7' at most. Sounds like from the bottom as previously mentioned will be my plan. Is burying the conduit going to hold it in place sufficiently where it's not screwed to the wall or post under the breaker box?
mike93lx
ALLIANCE MEMBER
If it is solidly mounted to the box, it is good.
Is that run up the wall in sunlight? An expansion coupling wouldn't be a terrible idea to allow for movement. I don't know what the typical criteria is for these to be used is, though. Maybe @wyliesdiesels can comment
Carlon 2 in. Schedule 40 and 80 Standard Fittings PVC Expansion Coupling
Carlon 2 in. Schedule 40 and 80 Electrical PVC Standard Expansion Coupling (E945J-5-HD) E945J-5-HD - The Home Depot
Get the Carlon E945 Series 2 in. Schedule 40 Expansion Fitting E945J-CAR, made of nonmetallic PVC the fitting has a 2-piece molded design with lubricated seals to provide easier movement throughout the
www.homedepot.com
OP
Model A Fan
Well-known member
Well, to follow up and update this thread, I have completed the project. I have a 90A breaker in the main panel outside feeding a sub-panel inside. The sub-panel inside in turn powers another sub-panel (a sub-sub-panel if you will). All the wiring that was once in place on the puny six space panel is now being powered by the new sub-sub-panel. I have enough juice to power my air compressor, table saws, welder, and perhaps an oven to do powder coating. Where do I put the blue stickers on the sub-sub-panel? That is my question at this point.
Attachments
mike93lx
ALLIANCE MEMBER
Looks good.
I'm no sparky, but I'd put those stickers in the trash can
I'm no sparky, but I'd put those stickers in the trash can
wyliesdiesels
Well-known member
what's the reason for running the braided grounded all the way to the right bar? why not terminate it on the left bar?
OP
Model A Fan
Well-known member
Sounds good, I will not bother with them.
I just tied the two ground bars together because I had extra grounding wire and figured this way they were doubly grounded. No particular reason beyond that.
The wires feeding the sub-sub-panel are 8-8-8-10 and I'm planning on having the sub-sub-panel run the vast majority of my lighting since its on a 40A breaker and I have a whole panel for it. I'll power my 220V equipment off of dedicated circuits off the sub-panel and perhaps some outdoor lighting since the panels are on opposite sides of the barn. I'm excited that this project turned out so well!
Thank you all for the help over the past several months!
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wyliesdiesels
Well-known member
totally unnecessary and doesnt accomplish anything other than add mess to the can. the bars are bonded via the enclosure
mike93lx
ALLIANCE MEMBER
I'd hardly call it a mess.
It may not be helping anything, but it isn't hurting anything.