You don't own a step drill?
If you're stubbed up in the middle, you could use a hub, but it won't be too long before you're seeing diminishing returns. $12 for the hub and you're 1/3 of the way to a new panel.
It doesn't give the dimensions, but on page 76 is the knockout sizes and locations.
I thought it would be a challenge enlarging an existing ko, but thought about clamping a block of wood in it to hold pilot bit.
or drill a hole in a pc of plywood, clamp it to the panel, use it as a jig guide
3/4" conduit requires a 1-1/8 hole and 1" conduit needs 1-3/8".
If I remember correctly from another thread, he is turning an attached garage into a living room and extending the feeder. However, I'm not going to go digging through all of the threads to confirm.
I've done various methods of that trick. In this situation I'd add a blank piece to the back side if there is room. It holds the pilot bit and makes it easier to prevent hole saw wandering.
It's a bracket that bolts over the breaker that is feeding the panel to prevent removing it
As it turns out, good catch.
The hold down kit will be to keep the 50 amp main from being removed. Someone could take it out with hot wires connected to it. You also need a barrier to keep fingers off of the hot lugs. You'll be be much better off time and money wise buying a main breaker panel. I forgot the barrier part of a nine panel change out two weeks ago and had to make a last minute 350 mile round trip drive to get them. I don't know what Eaton has, but the Square D looks like this.
Still the worst pile of **** panel on the market, ANY other panel would be better then a Eaton Zinsco II.
Yes but still have to punch a hole for 1" rigid feeder. I guess a NEMA 3R indoors is unconventional, but still code compliant. And hard to justify skimping on new panel after buying $200+ of wire to feed it. But the whole building is somewhat unconventional. Rubble trench foundation. Surface bonded block stem wall. 100% rough sawn pine. Used overhead doors. Attic with stairs. Barn sash. Panel will fit right in. I was going to do all rlm lighting or keyless porcelain but relenting on that inexpensive led strips. The overhead doors and door openers spoiled the vintage look enough to give in on lighting.
Only $4 at HD but is it required for a 50 amp panel (125 amp panel rating)? Description says for 150 to 225 amps.
I do. It keeps me young.
I'd still have to punch a hole for the feed. No easier.
Panels have knockouts.......
If it says "NM-B" it is fine to use, if only NM, it's scrap metal since it is not allowed by code to use it.
Yeah, I was more getting at if it is either older 12/2 or more modern 14/2 and thus needs to move to a 15a breaker
