See attached photo below. Found the green-ish screw on the top of the buss. It appears that the contractor terminated both the ground wires and the neutral wires for every circuit on the same buss. And, my furnace requires ground and neutral to be bonded.
Main. I don't have the sub panel yet.
This
Leave that one alone. They are to be bonded at the first point of overcurrent protection, so unless you have a main breaker outside, that the way it's supposed to be. The neutral and ground aren't to be bonded at any other point downstream. But you will be correct if you get rid of that screw in the sub panel, which I was informed is officially referred to as a feeder panel in my code update class earlier this weekSee attached photo below. Found the green-ish screw on the top of the buss. It appears that the contractor terminated both the ground wires and the neutral wires for every circuit on the same buss. And, my furnace requires ground and neutral to be bonded.
Am I correct in thinking that I shouldn't remove the green screw in this case?
I've been known to throw a few wraps of green, white, or gray tape around a #6 in the past but unfortunately, you aren't supposed to mark anything smaller than a #4.
Nope, can't mark #6 and smaller
Thanks...
I think someone else mentioned that.
No, that's about as easy as it gets.
That won't be an issue. Tie part of a plastic Walmart type bag to a string and using a Shop Vac, **** it through the conduit. Use the string to pull an at least 1/4 rope through the pipe and pull the wire with the rope. Don't use the string to pull the wire, when it gets under tension, it will dig in the sweeps. To make the pulling head on the wire, strip about a foot of insulation off the end of the conductors, then cut about 1/2 of the strands off, run the strands through a loop in the rope, fold them over while making sure the bare conductor doesn't get back to the insulation (the whole point of it is to make the head small), tape it up real good with duct tape so nothing comes apart and pull while someone feeds it into the LB. You could use lube if you want, I wouldn't because of the mess it's going to make.
... and that will get you 3' into the ground where I live. I drove 4 rods in the past month, and the SDSmax basically just got 'em started. One of them, only 2-1/2 feet into the ground with the SDS max.
Why do you put conduit so deep?
???
I was reading it as a 3' head start since I had said a trench gets a 2' head start.
4 and larger can be reidentified with tape. So that combo of colors should be fine AFAIK, but personally, I'd stick with convention unless it's prohibitively expensive
I'm seeing the following costs:
It's a rinky dink way of doing it, but yes. The two grays would have to get marked with a hot color and the blue with a neutral color.
www.uline.com
which book is that?
NEC 2023 NFPA 70 handbook
www.garagejournal.com
NEC Illustrated Handbook…….. A "must have" book.
Could he use Mobile Home Feeder for his project? This is more-or-less a copy of my project I did (I used 90A breakers as I found a better deal on them on eBay).
I have a main breaker powering an outdoor irrigation pump at 200A service. I fed the Mobile Home Feeder down through conduit until it ran horizontally where I did not use any conduit and then back up into a conduit elbow up the exterior wall of my barn and then through conduit along the rafter of the lean-to shed roof through the wall of my barn and then down an LB and short conduit into my sub-panel.
I used a Square D Homeline brand sub-panel with the 100A main (remember its only fed by a 90A breaker) and then I wired everything off that (three additional smaller panels that are 40A or less). I would use 2" conduit with these big wires. I used 1.5" as it was "code", but bigger would have been better in the long run. I had to pay for help pulling the Mobile Home Feeder because I couldn't get it on my own and that added $500 to the project when if I had used bigger conduit (marginally more expensive), I would have not needed the hired help and I'd have been further ahead on my overall savings.
I'll include the link if you'd like to see it. If you're using Mobile Home Feeder, it was $3.**/foot at Lowes, its stiff, and already color coded for hots, neutral, and ground.
Starts on page 3 with photos of my location, what I was working with, and my thought processes. I researched wiring/electrical for quite some time, asked a TON of questions here, and went slowly so I made sure I would be accurate and correct in my project. The invaluable help here saved me $4100 on that project alone.
Sub-Panel in Garage-Adding 220v for Table Saw and Air Compressor
A big benefit of running conduit underground as well is being able to get the trunch dug, lay the conduit then backfill. You can then deal with the wiring later. If you run it exposed underground, you have to leave the trench open until the wire is placed. The conduit also protects the wire in...
Posts are listed in chronological order...
When I ran mine, I had conduit the whole way underground but ran into the problem that the Mobile Home Feeder was too stiff to make the curve into the conduit and then back up the other curve (too short of a distance for it to flex enough) so I had to cut the horizontal portion out for it to work.
I read the thread in multiple pieces so I missed those initial "HAS to be 100A, no 90A"...Posts are listed in chronological order...
#2 AL is listed for a 100 amp service, but only 90 amps as a feeder. Makes perfect sense, doesn't it?
220, 221, whatever it takes!
1.5" would have been fine if you ran individual xhhw conductors and used a little bit of lubricant.Could he use Mobile Home Feeder for his project? This is more-or-less a copy of my project I did (I used 90A breakers as I found a better deal on them on eBay).
I have a main breaker powering an outdoor irrigation pump at 200A service. I fed the Mobile Home Feeder down through conduit until it ran horizontally where I did not use any conduit and then back up into a conduit elbow up the exterior wall of my barn and then through conduit along the rafter of the lean-to shed roof through the wall of my barn and then down an LB and short conduit into my sub-panel.
I used a Square D Homeline brand sub-panel with the 100A main (remember its only fed by a 90A breaker) and then I wired everything off that (three additional smaller panels that are 40A or less). I would use 2" conduit with these big wires. I used 1.5" as it was "code", but bigger would have been better in the long run. I had to pay for help pulling the Mobile Home Feeder because I couldn't get it on my own and that added $500 to the project when if I had used bigger conduit (marginally more expensive), I would have not needed the hired help and I'd have been further ahead on my overall savings.
I'll include the link if you'd like to see it. If you're using Mobile Home Feeder, it was $3.**/foot at Lowes, its stiff, and already color coded for hots, neutral, and ground.
Starts on page 3 with photos of my location, what I was working with, and my thought processes. I researched wiring/electrical for quite some time, asked a TON of questions here, and went slowly so I made sure I would be accurate and correct in my project. The invaluable help here saved me $4100 on that project alone.
You can drive grounding rods with a fence post driver if your ground is soft enough. If not, you can bury them horizontally away from your structure (I believe you need 6' between rods FYI).
Sub-Panel in Garage-Adding 220v for Table Saw and Air Compressor
A big benefit of running conduit underground as well is being able to get the trunch dug, lay the conduit then backfill. You can then deal with the wiring later. If you run it exposed underground, you have to leave the trench open until the wire is placed. The conduit also protects the wire in...
