Subaru Ball Joint Separator Question

[NHtoolguy]

Hi everyone! I needed to separate the front left ball joint on a 2010 Subaru Forester to replace the axle. I wanted to reuse the ball joint, so I had to use a tool that would push the stud taper out of the lower control arm and not damage the boot. After trying multiple puller types that didn't grip the arm, I wound up trying an old style one-piece pitman arm puller. It straddled the arm fairly well and the forcing screw aligned with the stud. I had to really crank on it and when the taper let go, it sounded like a gunshot. Is there a factory tool for this job? What do Subaru techs use to separate ball joints? The lower control arm narrows toward the ball joint end, and there isn't much of a lip to grab. Thanks for any input.

 

[ItsNemo]

Hammer on the joint while you have moderate pressure on it, don't rely on the tool alone to separate it.

 

[j3rf]

Long pry bar for leverage and a big hammer on the control arm.

 

[dnschmidt]

Astro to the rescue: https://www.astrotools.com/product/subaru-ball-joint-puller/

 

[Tool Using Animal]

I got this one, works really well.



Even comes with a piece of string to tie it up so it doesn't come crashing down when it pops.

 

[2ndGearRubber]

Hi everyone! I needed to separate the front left ball joint on a 2010 Subaru Forester to replace the axle. I wanted to reuse the ball joint, so I had to use a tool that would push the stud taper out of the lower control arm and not damage the boot. After trying multiple puller types that didn't grip the arm, I wound up trying an old style one-piece pitman arm puller. It straddled the arm fairly well and the forcing screw aligned with the stud. I had to really crank on it and when the taper let go, it sounded like a gunshot. Is there a factory tool for this job? What do Subaru techs use to separate ball joints? The lower control arm narrows toward the ball joint end, and there isn't much of a lip to grab. Thanks for any input.

Don't separate the ball joint to swap an axle. Remove the strut bolts and pry the arm down, it will just barely fit out. Mark the strut bolts with a paint pen or similar in case someone added cam eccentric bolts to set the camber. Removing the sway bar link will help you pry down easier, although standing at chest height with the suspension hanging I have enough leverage to do it by hand with the link connected and I'm not particularly strong. Pull the knuckle forward and down, bend the outer axle joint to one extreme, slip it out.

In my world, if that ball joint needs separated, it's getting replaced. Between the rotten cotter pins, small threads, and low cost of replacement I don't bother saving them.

 

[tamaraw]

Could you show a picture of the ball joint in question and how it is mounted?

I use this on my Honda, it's also sold under many different names:

BMW Bavarian Autosport Ball Joint & Tie-rod End Separator Tool BAV.ES3673895 BAVES3673895 BAV ES3673895 | Pelican Parts

Bavarian Autosport Ball Joint & Tie-rod End Separator Tool Scissor Type InStock Ships Today! Call (310)626-8765. May Qualify For FREE SHIPPING. Parts# BAV ES3673895 BAV.ES3673895 BAVES3673895. E21, E39, E61, E66, E90, F01, F04, F06, F07, F15, F16, F32, F33...

www.pelicanparts.com

And there is the C-clamp type tool and a few with a jackscrew similar to the link but no lever action.

I know some people will also tap the side of the control arm where the stud fits to jar it loose while force is simultaneously applied pushing the stud out.

 

[nicks78camaro]

Echoing everything @2ndGearRubber just said

 

[nicks78camaro]

And if/when you replace the ball joint, Astro makes a very nice ball joint puller specifically for Subarus

 

[rancherbill]

Astro to the rescue: https://www.astrotools.com/product/subaru-ball-joint-puller/

That's cool and a reasonable price
https://m.media-amazon.com/images/S...rm-Generic-480p-16-9-1409173089793-rpcbe5.mp4

 

[mrvm]

Could you show a picture of the ball joint in question and how it is mounted?

Here’s a pic of the BJ in the front LCA. In my case the LCA was being replaced and banged out of the knuckle.

 

[Kent_B]

Pinch bolts in the knuckle can also be troublesome. Without heat, that bolt is likely to break and sometimes even with heat.

 

[Buckgnarly]

Echoing everything @2ndGearRubber just said
removers!

X3 on that, though count on replacing the end link if you gotta pull it....they can be as big a PITA as that ball joint bolt.
And the Astro tool listed above is useless for a separator, but it makes a great remover!

 

[Mr_B]

If do the strut bolts the top bolt is camber concentric as standard so note the position .
easiest way pop the joint stud out of lower arm is load the joint with pry bar or chisel wedge and give it few love taps with the air hammer .
No need buy the BJ removal pullers (although astro is dirt cheap) as can make your own from couple nuts and long full thread bolt or bit of threaded bar and use some sleeves from a bush/bearing kit , I made a puller from a 8.8 grade full thread m16 bolt and m16 nut welded to old wheel nut that same m10x1.25 thread as BJ stud, you can carefully tap a chisel in knuckle split to open joint a fraction to ease removal/fitting (never cracked one yet and never will unless go gorilla on it) upgraded that tool so nut on m16 threaded rod runs on tapered bearing from some euro trash rear hub so less effort in using it, done lot of ball joints with that tool quick and easy .
Pinch bolts ****, if no heat, air hammer bold both end, spray penetrating oil and rattle bolt with air wrench turned down a notch so not going bust head off and keep rattling it few seconds forward and back and in time it may start move a little and then you add more oil and up the wrench power once moving well .

 

[WWheeler]

Pinch bolts in the knuckle can also be troublesome. Without heat, that bolt is likely to break and sometimes even with heat.

This, just to add that when torching it it's very easy to damage the CV boot. Definitely shield it as best you can.

 

[vssjim]

Astro to the rescue: https://www.astrotools.com/product/subaru-ball-joint-puller/

I have that tool and I works great but it is for pulling ball joint from knuckle after separating the stud from control arm as they get rusted in fairly badly and it make quick work removing them

 

[vssjim]

Hi everyone! I needed to separate the front left ball joint on a 2010 Subaru Forester to replace the axle. I wanted to reuse the ball joint, so I had to use a tool that would push the stud taper out of the lower control arm and not damage the boot. After trying multiple puller types that didn't grip the arm, I wound up trying an old style one-piece pitman arm puller. It straddled the arm fairly well and the forcing screw aligned with the stud. I had to really crank on it and when the taper let go, it sounded like a gunshot. Is there a factory tool for this job? What do Subaru techs use to separate ball joints? The lower control arm narrows toward the ball joint end, and there isn't much of a lip to grab. Thanks for any input.

https://www.gearwrench.com/products...ve-train/3916d-universal-ball-joint-separator I use this tool and have for years on lots of cars

 

[Outahere]

OEM Tools Ball Joint Tool

 

[joe_pinehill1]

I've owned 3 Subarus and live in the Northeast. If you have not done the ball joints on a 2010, they probably should be replaced. I use a Harbor Freight separator that I have grinded in some areas to fit better, pops them right off.


Rusted Ball joints are a pain in the neck to remove from the spindle if you are replacing the joint. First on a 2020 the pinch bolt will probably snap, then if you drill the bolt out, you still have to get the ball joint out. On hard ball joints, I buy a new knuckle, its save so much time, its worth the $100.

 

[NHtoolguy]

Thanks for all the input guys. I'll investigate alternate separators as suggested. I wanted to save the ball joint since it had been replaced recently. Interestingly, my Haynes manual recommended removing the lower ball joint for an axle replacement. Once the taper popped loose and I disconnected the sway bar link (also recently replaced), the knuckle swung out of the way and the axle slipped right out. I did install a new castle nut and cotter pin.

 

[Outahere]

OEM Tools Ball Joint Tool

...The OEMTOOLS 25112 Ball Joint Separator tool separates ball joints from the spindle support arm on most newer domestic and import front wheel drive vehicles. Unlike other ball joint tool remover methods like hammering in a pickle fork, this tool allows for the removal of the ball joint without damaging the rubber boot. Many automotive tools can remove a ball joint with some effort and risk, but this ball joint puller tool is ideal when you need to re-use the ball joint after removing it...

 

[Outahere]

another tool option for damage free removal of ball joints:

Low Profile Ball Joint Separator | Astro Pneumatic Tools

• Designed for tight access where most ball joint separators won't fit • Particularly useful on 2005+ Ford, Lincoln and Mercury applications • Impact rated durable forged design with a longer throat to fit more applications

www.astrotools.com

 

[2ndGearRubber]

You DO NOT want to push on a subaru lower ball joint with that type of tool. The ball joints, factory design anyways, have a double keyway for a cotter pin. Pushing upward on it will crush in the threads. Even with a "air hammer nut" from assenmacher or similar, the end of the joint wants to just crush inwards. Not fun to fix, the "easiest" method is simply replacing the joint afterwards. You can grind the end flat and use a split-die in a pinch, but that's way above the level most are capable of doing.

Separate the arm from the ball joint, not the ball joint from the arm. You can beat that stamped steel arm all day with no consequences.