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Suggestions for a 10' workbench top?

wdfwguy

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Oct 12, 2016
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My current bench is topped by a solid core 7' door

But in my new space I have room for a 10' bench. The base will be Edsal legs and a HF 44" toolbox.
 
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wdfwguy

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Oct 12, 2016
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I just haven't seen sheets longer than 8', but I suppose the seam somewhere wouldn't be a big deal
 

pattenp

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Jun 4, 2008
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10,175
Location
Virginia - USA
I used a couple 2X12's to make a top. It was fairly cheap. Downside is the gap in between the boards, but that could be taken care of by jointing the boards and gluing together. I was too lazy to do that much work.
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wdfwguy

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Oct 12, 2016
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Yeah, that's probably the easiest way to go. I just don't like the gaps either.
 

OutlawDrifter

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Jan 20, 2015
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KS
10' of bench will catch a lot of stuff. Mine is 8' with a table top drill press and it loads up fast as a "catch all" in the garage.
 

Dirtydan69

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Nov 8, 2015
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847
Location
San Tan Valley, AZ
I can fill up a 10 foot top as easy as a 2 foot.

As for lemgths over 8' they do make longer sheets of plywood, 10 and 12 feet. Usually special order and in quantity. MDF comes 10'. Check with a local cabinet shops.
 

IMSA GTO

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Aug 18, 2014
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Location
Loudoun Co Virginia
+1 for the butcher block approach. I picked up an 8' oak top from Lumber Liquidators for the HF bench that I made recently. Initially I wanted to use a stainless top, but the cost was prohibitive. LL has 10' available in oak and maple, as well as a couple of softer woods (that you probably would not want to use for a workbench).
 

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Colin Len

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Jan 30, 2013
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Long Beach CA
I used three 5' sections of Ikea butcher block table tops for mine. It wasn't ideal due to having to but them against each other and them not meeting PERFECTLY as I would have wished. But it works and the seams aren't bad after I sanded them relatively smooth and coated the top. I would have preferred to use two 8' sections instead but I found these 5' table tops on Craigslist for cheaper than I could have bought a single 8' top.






As mentioned in the above post - if you can find bowling alley wood you may be able to find the length you need. I found some locally but all the sellers wanted a TON of money for them. Stuff like that is really expensive around here.
 

ItsNemo

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Mar 5, 2016
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Canada
Build two 5' benches, put them on wheels, expand your options...assuming they're 2' deep you could have both a 10x2' workspace or a 5x4' workspace depending what you're up to. You'd only need a single 4x8 sheet to do it and you could use the cutoff 4x3 for another island workstation or something.
 

driftpin

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Dec 22, 2016
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Miami-Dade/Broward Co. Florida
As Dcarr said, 3/4" plywood ripped lengthwise. The 3/4" pieces I glued & screwed together to form a 1-1/2" solid wood countertop. That's what I chose to do, for a 8' x 2' workbench top, and then got a piece of 3/16" steel sheet cut to size to top it. I use mineral oil to wipe it clean & to keep it from rusting. Held to the wood & frame w/flathead 1/4" machine screws, countersunk. The steel top is edged with 1-1/2" X 1/8" steel strap screwed to the plywood.

I used a Craftsman 8' x 2' steel frame I bought new, $88 out the door, it normally sells for >$200. The rollers under the workbench I got at Sears, they are Craftsman door or drawer units, selling for >$400 each, retail, I got for $84 each on a closeout.
 

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RobSmith

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Feb 5, 2009
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Location
NSW Australia
I used MDF covered with conveyor belt on my 14 foot bench. The bench is made of 2"x2" angle iron. Solid as a rock and nothing sticks to it.
 

bselfsc

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Joined
Sep 14, 2014
Messages
16
I am working on mine now...10' plus 5' rolling work table... went to Lumber Liguidators looking for unfinished flooring..found 4" hickory....have 5/8" plywood base...going through acclimation ..will nail down next week.. then 3-4 coats Waterlox
 

crab

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Jan 8, 2015
Messages
940
You can order plywood as long as 12 foot I know, maybe longer. Butcher block can also be ordered in any length. In both cases you will pay a premium but might be worth it. I personally would use 1/4 steel plate but I weld and grind and cut and beat on stuff.
 

scott70

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Feb 11, 2017
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5
Location
piedmont region , nc
lots of good suggestions here..If you went the plywood route and didn't like the seams you can get rolls of laminate in lengths over 10' and in any color/style you want..just a thought,

scott
 
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Outlander

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Jul 30, 2010
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Location
Quebec, Canada
I was lazy and cheap when I put a top on mine. I used leftover boards from the deck. Sand them down every couple of years and hope they are ruined so I have to change them. Dang things are surviving chemicals and my bad behavior!

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hubbell

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Feb 16, 2017
Messages
30
find a steel supplier, for not too much, few hundred, you can purchase sheet steel, have them bend the edge into a C shape so it is nicely finished. put 2 layers of plywood underneath it and have the bend fit the edge of the plywood, it will secure it on the front and you can screw the back down. cost me $2xx i believe for 14ft.
 

Excogitate

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Aug 5, 2014
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Location
Apache Junction, AZ
But with the steel do you have to rub it down once in a while to prevent rust. I would hate to get rust on everything from time to time when I miss an oiling LOL
 

hubbell

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Feb 16, 2017
Messages
30
no since its inside it is fine and you can always sand it if you want to polish it up. you can also do SS or aluminum but it is much more costly. ive had mine for over a year (1.5 years or so) and it doesnt get rust.
 

shaveradam

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Nov 16, 2012
Messages
14
I was able to find (4) 10' x 22" deep Laminate countertop sections at Ikea in their as-is section for $10.00 each. I bought 4. I also have 20' of white base cabinets and was planning on a 20' cabinet / workbench section all the way across the back wall of my garage. I am going to take one of the other pieces and do a 7' section over my 72" HF toolbox that will be coming soon and will be mounting my bench grinder, potentially a small drill press and belt sander on so that it takes no space on my main bench.
 

chrisBTSC

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Jan 13, 2015
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132
Location
Folsom, CA
The ikea butcher block tops were ideal for me. They look great and are cheap enough that if they get messed up somehow they are easily replaceable.

 

JCQuick

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Nov 29, 2008
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Location
Apopka Fla.
I'm in the boat the bench I'm planning is 10ft long 24" deep I really want oak not a fan of steel bench tops
 

SARG

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Jan 25, 2011
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999
Location
Northeast
I used ¾ plywood with tempered hardboard on top in case it ever got chewed up and I wanted to replace. It's been down about 30 years and is still holding up.
 

gottahaveit

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Mar 1, 2017
Messages
14
Check around for some restaurant surplus. I found a 12' x 30" stainless counter top which I fitted with a 1.5" thick plywood core atop a length of old steel kitchen counter. The wood supports the stainless so it don't dent. I simply glued several sheets of 3/4" plywood together in overlapping sections to make the 12' single piece insert. (Its been in place now for 30+ years. I think it came from a meat market, it was the back counter where the slicers sat. Mine had no back splash and the front and all sides were folded and corner welded. Its strong enough to support a transmission holder and huge bench vise.
My other work bench is a 4x10ft all steel bench, made from a single sheet of 1/2" steel plate with 10 2x2" steel legs with threaded leveling bolts at the bottom. We built it at work years ago and after only a few years they decided to replace it with a cabinet based work area, so it followed me home rather than getting cut up in the scrap pile. (Moving it was a real chore as it weighs close to a ton, the top alone weighed in at over 1200 lbs. My smaller welding bench is made from all 1/2" plate, and is about 3x6ft with a double deep top made of 1/2 steel slats over a 1/2" plate basin about 4" deep. Again, its a product of an upgrade at work. A new boss with a new idea meant my shop here got an upgrade. (I think they were glad to have me removed both benches after hours versus paying someone hourly to cut them up). I've also got a 9x4ft 1/2 plate table sitting that I didn't really have room for. It's probably going to hit CL in the near future or get re-purposed into something else.

My shop area is roughly six garage bays, but I've been slowly getting back into working on cars so I intend to free up some floor space soon.
 

scatkins

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Aug 18, 2014
Messages
33
If you look at IKEA butcher blocks, make sure you are careful about what you buy..The cheaper ones are just a 1/8 veneer over particle board.. the more expensive however do seem to be solid..
 

R_einan

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Aug 29, 2016
Messages
461
Location
Eastern WA
I used 3/4 OSB and covered it with a 1/4" cord reinforced rubber sheet (potatoe bin liner cut). Still need another sheet to continue down the long stretch. Then used extruded stair tread edging to finish it. Love the rubber top, can pound on it and doesn't damage the substrate. Also great for small disassembly work since tools and parts don't slide around.

As for length, I have 28 feet down the back wall and another 8 feet down the side. Still manage to cover most of it...
 

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AirJunky

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Dec 6, 2012
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841
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Priest River, ID
I built mine out of 2x6s, similar construction as a deck. Then glued down a piece tempered hardboard on top. Over the last 10 years I've replaced the hardboard layer twice when it gets too oily or dirty that I can't stand it anymore.. Its cheap, and durable, and looks good.
 
Joined
Jan 17, 2014
Messages
10
Location
Up north
I bought a 12x3" glulam & ripped it into three pieces. Then I jointed & planed each piece before joining them. Overall size it 8'Lx32"W. It weighs a couple hundred pounds. The Edsel legs, while sturdy, aren't heavy. I love the outlets in the legs. But when working with my vise, the table isn't heavy enough. With Edsel legs, plan on bolting them to the ground.
 

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btdobie

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Mar 21, 2016
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611
Location
Southern Minnesota
Mine is 3/4 OSB with 12 gauge mild steel on top. A local metal shop put it on a brake for me and bent down the edges and bent up the back for a back splash total cost including the metal and OSB was $120. It is fairly cheap, smooth, and tough enough to withstand a direct hammer blow without denting. I keep it unpainted and just rub it with hydraulic oil once a month to stop rust (use about 1/2 oz; let the oil sit for 15min before drying so it gets into the pores of the metal). So far i have no rust or damage of any kind. Most steel yards carry 10 ft sheets of steel or can at least order them.
 
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