Suggestions on Cheap A/C
- Thread starter Ralphie
- Start date
goodfellow
Well-known member
I owned a two level, open floor design 900sq/ft barn that was turned into a garage. I installed a 12000 BTU, Room AC unit at the highest level -- right below the roof line. Then I ran a 220 circuit. That AC unit kept the whole garage (both floors) comfortable during the hottest Virginia summers.
The trick is to install it as high as possible.
The trick is to install it as high as possible.
ghnl
Well-known member
I bought an A/C unit designed for use in a casement window. Since the unit is 14 1/2" wide I installed it between standard 16" OC studs - no cutting studs or installing headers needed.
It is a 12,000 BTU 110V 11.8 amp unit. I never needed to use the maximum setting to cool our 22' X 22' X 11.5'h garage (insulated 2X4 walls & 8" in ceiling) for North Carolina summers (and I hate the heat...).
It is now surplus to my needs as our garage is being expanded and we'll install a through wall heat pump A/C. I doubt it'd be worth shipping to FL but if you'll be in NC anythime soon let me know.
It is a 12,000 BTU 110V 11.8 amp unit. I never needed to use the maximum setting to cool our 22' X 22' X 11.5'h garage (insulated 2X4 walls & 8" in ceiling) for North Carolina summers (and I hate the heat...).
It is now surplus to my needs as our garage is being expanded and we'll install a through wall heat pump A/C. I doubt it'd be worth shipping to FL but if you'll be in NC anythime soon let me know.
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rickairmedic
Well-known member
Ralph the portable units actually work fairly well as long as you run the exhaust outside the building your trying to cool. I have used them to keep an attic bearable while working in one for an extended period 
.
Rick
.Rick
I have 1500 sq ft and I used 2- 23000 btu window units. I tried one and when it got to 100 it just wasn't enough. I mounted them up high to stay out of as much dust as possible. The filters stayed cleaner than the ones in the old house we lived in. They will bring it down to about 68.
rickairmedic
Well-known member
Ralph I grew up in Tampa so I know the wether you are talking about. We dont have it quite as bad here . I was down there the beginning of April and it was already in the mid 80's durring the day dang I dont mis it getting that warm that early . We get pretty hot wet and nasty up here in July and August . The main thing to consider is the insulation in the garage and the garage door and also everytime you open the overhead door you are pretty much starting over fresh on cooling the space .
Rick
. We get pretty hot wet and nasty up here in July and August . The main thing to consider is the insulation in the garage and the garage door and also everytime you open the overhead door you are pretty much starting over fresh on cooling the space .Rick
krooser
Well-known member
I cool 1100 sq ft of my shop with a 1966 vintage Fedders window a/c unit... can't get much cheaper than that since it was free.
TheShrine
Well-known member
Ductless, split heat pump systems with inverter.
More efficient!
Cost less!
Quieter!
Smaller!
Easier to install!
The only answer for single room air conditioning!
More efficient!
Cost less!
Quieter!
Smaller!
Easier to install!
The only answer for single room air conditioning!
sandbag
Active member
I need to put AC in the garage, but I don't thing the HOA will let me put something on the exterior of the house :/
I have the same problem with HOA, but they will let me put a wall unit but it must not start any higher then 8" above slab level. Everyone seems to say the higher up the unit is the better it will cool.
I have been checking into Portable units so I can just put a hole for the exhaust duct. But have had no luck on anyone recommending a GOOD Portable unit, I need at least 14,000 BTU here in HOT Florida. 93 degrees today
krooser
Well-known member
Insulation makes all the difference... my shop has 1" styrofoam on the outside of the walls under the steel sheeting and 6" of fiberglass in the walls. The ceiling is kind of a mix of batts and blown-in cellulose... I used what i had available.... about 10 to 12" thick.
We DO get quite a bit of summer heat here in Cheeseland... that old Fedders is about 9K of cooling and my shop can hold about 68F. in 95F heat without any problems. I often shut off the a/c at night and the hop will hold in the mid 70's all thru the next day.... not bad at all.
We DO get quite a bit of summer heat here in Cheeseland... that old Fedders is about 9K of cooling and my shop can hold about 68F. in 95F heat without any problems. I often shut off the a/c at night and the hop will hold in the mid 70's all thru the next day.... not bad at all.
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hidollartoys
Well-known member
With ALL of the parameters that you have defined it seems as though you will end up with a portable unit and like it.
Joe Reed
Well-known member
I don't think you'll find a portable unit large enough to do the job. I don't recall seeing one any larger than about 11btu or thereabouts. In FL, that's not going to keep 600 sq ft cool. A large window unit installed through the wall will be the cheapest way to go. The split systems are nicer looking - but also quite a bit more expensive.
rinny_tin_tin
Well-known member
I doubt that a one ton (1200 btu) unit will even take the edge off of a humid Florida 90 degree day in a 600 sq ft space with poor insulation to boot. You will need at least 2 tons to make the heat bearabl, and even then - the unit will be working hard. Three tons is ideal - provided reasonable insulation.
redsky49
Well-known member
Portable AC units, both air and water cooled, are available in larger sizes but they are used in computer room applications, etc., and are not cost effective. Best bet is a quality window/thru-wall unit.
A shoot from the hip guess would put you in the one ton to one and a half ton size range. The intent (from my perspective) would not be to maintain 72 degrees in the garage as your house is, but to lower the humidity to an acceptable level and to lower the temperature enough so that you would feel comfortable performing normal tasks. Maybe 78 degrees and no more than 50% RH. Perform a load calculation for actual required unit size.
If the garage has at least minimum insulation, and the garage is attached to the house on one or more sides, the biggest sources of heat will be infiltration and solar load. Place shades on all windows and make sure that all seals and gaskets are in good condition. The garage overhead door can be a large source of heat, especially if the garage door is aluminum construction. The solar load on the door is converted to radiant heat in to the garage. Insulate the door if at all possible. Minimizing infiltration will allow you to reduce the humidity. If the garage is not relatively airtight you will lose the battle against moisture infiltration.
I am not sure where in Florida you are located, but if you are along the coast the salt air will be tough on any window unit. Plastics will last longer than coated steels, and a fresh water wash occasionally will help the longevity of the unit. Plan on an expected service life of 5-7 years for the unit.
Route the condensate drain so that you do not have a season-long puddle outside of the unit. Select the highest SEER rating that you can afford. Make certain that electrical circuit is up to the task, and heavy-up the conductor if required. Better quality units have better thermostats and/or temperature controls, and also operate more quietly. For a slight increase in price, you can purchase a unit with reverse-cycle heating, though that will limit your choices with some manufacturers.
With the proper expectations, a window (or PTAC unit) will suit your needs. Good luck with your project.
As always, offered only as opinion
A shoot from the hip guess would put you in the one ton to one and a half ton size range. The intent (from my perspective) would not be to maintain 72 degrees in the garage as your house is, but to lower the humidity to an acceptable level and to lower the temperature enough so that you would feel comfortable performing normal tasks. Maybe 78 degrees and no more than 50% RH. Perform a load calculation for actual required unit size.
If the garage has at least minimum insulation, and the garage is attached to the house on one or more sides, the biggest sources of heat will be infiltration and solar load. Place shades on all windows and make sure that all seals and gaskets are in good condition. The garage overhead door can be a large source of heat, especially if the garage door is aluminum construction. The solar load on the door is converted to radiant heat in to the garage. Insulate the door if at all possible. Minimizing infiltration will allow you to reduce the humidity. If the garage is not relatively airtight you will lose the battle against moisture infiltration.
I am not sure where in Florida you are located, but if you are along the coast the salt air will be tough on any window unit. Plastics will last longer than coated steels, and a fresh water wash occasionally will help the longevity of the unit. Plan on an expected service life of 5-7 years for the unit.
Route the condensate drain so that you do not have a season-long puddle outside of the unit. Select the highest SEER rating that you can afford. Make certain that electrical circuit is up to the task, and heavy-up the conductor if required. Better quality units have better thermostats and/or temperature controls, and also operate more quietly. For a slight increase in price, you can purchase a unit with reverse-cycle heating, though that will limit your choices with some manufacturers.
With the proper expectations, a window (or PTAC unit) will suit your needs. Good luck with your project.
As always, offered only as opinion
JohnMcD348
Well-known member
I grew up in a wood frame tin roofed house in Central Florida that was cooled by window units after we upgraded from the attic fan. It may take awhile depending on the size of the unit you get and how you mount it. Likes been said before, get it as high as you can and make certain you have it canted so that the condensation will drain. Here in Florida they create alot of water between cycles.
Why not just get a roll around unit like the ones they use in shops.
http://images.google.com/imgres?img...t:en-us:IE-SearchBox&rlz=1I7ADBR_en&sa=N&um=1
http://images.google.com/imgres?img...t:en-us:IE-SearchBox&rlz=1I7ADBR_en&sa=N&um=1
LUV2XCLR8
Well-known member
I was thinking of this one below, my shop is 576 sq ft, and I wear shorts
year round so what little heat it puts out should be enough for my taste.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dl...sacat=See-All-Categories&_naf=1&_fvi=1&_rdc=1
year round so what little heat it puts out should be enough for my taste.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dl...sacat=See-All-Categories&_naf=1&_fvi=1&_rdc=1
Me and my brother own a 30x40 shop w/9' ceilings. It is insulated with foam on the walls and bats in the ceiling. We are building us a unit with a 120v Grundfuss circulating pump that will pump cold water from a deep well to an aluminum radiator in the shop. We have a shroud made to fit a small squirrel cage fan that will blow thru the radiator and then the water will return to the well. The water temp is 54 degrees right now out of the well. I don't know if it will work,but we are going to try it. Cheap unit though.
jwith68
Well-known member
My shop is a 24 x 30 space divided off from the remainder of my 60 x 30 building. I have inslulated commercial garage doors, walls are R19 and ceiling is R30. I have a Whirlpool window unit circa early 90's installed thru-the-wall. It was more or less a freebie. It is the largest one available at that time, and is rated 25k Btu/hr on 240V, so a full 2 tons of cooling. It is installed centered in the 30' end wall, as high as it could be for me to reach the controls standing on the floor.
It does a fine job with the shop only, and pulls it down pretty quickly. It takes a while to pull down the entire building, but will handle it. Moving the cool air the length of the building becomes the issue when trying to cool the whole thing - it then has to move the entire 60' length.
It does a fine job with the shop only, and pulls it down pretty quickly. It takes a while to pull down the entire building, but will handle it. Moving the cool air the length of the building becomes the issue when trying to cool the whole thing - it then has to move the entire 60' length.
LUV2XCLR8
Well-known member
What size did you go with? What brand? Etc ..........
How cold will it get your shop on a HOT day outside?
TAMPAGT07
Well-known member
I purchased a GE 18,000 btu unit from sams club several years ago for $350. It was worth every penny. It is a sleve/window unit. My association came after me to remove it. I told them to take me to court, because the deed restrictions would not allow "window" units. I cut a hole in the wall for a sleve, so there never was a window there. I won, they lost. My garage is like 25' x 30'.
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2NDXRND
Member
I have the same problem with HOA, but they will let me put a wall unit but it must not start any higher then 8" above slab level. Everyone seems to say the higher up the unit is the better it will cool.
I have been checking into Portable units so I can just put a hole for the exhaust duct. But have had no luck on anyone recommending a GOOD Portable unit, I need at least 14,000 BTU here in HOT Florida. 93 degrees today
*sigh* HOA. God knows I hate 'em. So, here's what you do. You claim to suffer (or maybe you REALLY do.
) shortness of breath/difficulty breathing in hot/humid weather. (It is a common complaint with people with emphysema, asthma, chronic bronchitis and some severe seasonal allergies. It has been proven that dehumidified/cooled air (ie: AIR CONDITIONED AIR) lessens diff. breathing in persons with this/similar medical maladies.oldgoat
Well-known member
It should work. A friend I worked with had a similar setup that cooled his house. He said that it would take it down to the mid to high 70's until the temp got up past 100 and then it would only get it down to the low 80's. He put central heat and air in later, but said the only complaint he had was the water ran out onto the lawn and with three boys that was a problem. Asked him why he didn't just put down another well and run the water back into it. The good thing is that unlike a water cooler it doesn't put the humidity into the air.