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Supporting ridge beam for tomorrow's NE storm

tyrenta

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Fairfield County, CT
Hi all -- I have a 1940's post/beam garage with a sagging ridge beam and I'm concerned about the blizzard coming tomorrow in the northeast. Supposed to get up to 12" of snow mixed with rain so it will be very heavy.

I was planning on finally (after thinking about it for 2 years) getting it corrected this spring by jacking the beam back to as straight as possible/pulling the walls back in with come-alongs and adding rafter/collar ties to hold it. I've meant to do this for some time but have been held up by a non-supporting 2x4 beam that runs centerline to support the garage doors -- it prevents me from getting a post directly under the ridge beam. See pics and my original thread here: http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=295089

Here's my question: Would a temporary home made poor man's scissor-jack work? basically bolt a few 2x6 together at one end with a single 1/2" lag bolt, scissor them apart, and place the v-joint under the ridge beam (essentially making a tent structure with the beam at the top), and then pull the bottom ends together with a come along just enough to bear some of the load.

If I did 2 or 3 of these would the 2x6 with a bolt be strong enough to bear the snow load if needed? Hopefully my description of what I want to do is clear enough -- essentially turning my ridge beam into the top beam of the worlds largest temporary saw horse......
 
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matt_i

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I'd just support with a built-up column of 2x6s, lets just throw out 3 of them ganged up to make a 4x6 since I don't know any more.

Put it in place at the center and just apply light pressure at this point with whatever jack you can find. Ideally you'd have a steel plate of 1/4"+ thickness to distribute the point load of the jack to the end grain of the wood. I'm guessing you have a concrete floor here also...If not, a larger steel plate, lets say 12" x 12" x 1/2" would be ideal to spread the jack load to the dirt, or you could lay down a chunk of 2x12 if the steel isn't available.

This will support your ridge long enough to get thru the snow event. Then you can work out the details when there's enough time to think it all thru carefully and not make snap decisions which might not be the best, fully-formed ideas.
 
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tyrenta

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Thanks for the response -- that was my original plan but the hanging centerline 2x4 that holds the garage door tracks prevents me from placing a column directly under the ridge beam, so I either have to take down the garage door track or somehow build a column around that 2x4. I suppose I could sandwich the hanging 2x4 inside a couple 2x6 with just the 2 outside 2x6 bearing the weight -- maybe do that in 2 places.

It's the one running left to right in this photo, and to make it even harder isn't directly on center:
IMG_6130.JPG
 
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Jlbc212

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Get two strong eye bolts and attach the come-a-long to the top centers of the parallel bearing walls. If the come-a-long cable isn't long enough, lengthen it with a chain. Tighten up the come-a-long, but don't overdo it. The tension provided by the come-a-long should help prevent the walls from pushing outward, which in turn will keep the rafters and ridge beam from falling in. It's a quick, simple, temporary fix.
 

matt_i

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I could sandwich the hanging 2x4 inside a couple 2x6 with just the 2 outside 2x6 bearing the weight -- maybe do that in 2 places..[/IMG]

If you also had the center piece there would be a solid load path, the outer 2x6s would bridge across the joint and keep it from buckling under the compression.

The eyebolt idea is a very good one but I'd worry about the pullout strength of the bolt itself. You could distribute the load with a steel flat bar, lets just say 6" wide x 20" long x 1/4" thick. Drill one side for screws to penetrate the double top plate in 10-12 places, drill the other side in the center for an anchor shackle. Now the horizontal load is trying to shear a number of screws instead of pulling one out in tension.
 

LX-Markham

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^^^although the tension-tie idea is a good one, there's a lot more engineering required to make it work.

A simple shoring post(s) is much easier, provided it's sized and/or braced properly not to buckle.
 
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tyrenta

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You could distribute the load with a steel flat bar, lets just say 6" wide x 20" long x 1/4" thick. Drill one side for screws to penetrate the double top plate in 10-12 places, drill the other side in the center for an anchor shackle. Now the horizontal load is trying to shear a number of screws instead of pulling one out in tension.

That's interesting -- I've been trying to figure out how best to pull the walls together I like the top plate idea with anchor shackles. I'm limited to HD at this point and their in stock eye bolts are **** anyway. I assume would have to fit between studs so no more than 18" long or did you have something else in mind? what size screws would be needed to avoid them shearing off?
 
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tyrenta

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^^^although the tension-tie idea is a good one, there's a lot more engineering required to make it work.

A simple shoring post(s) is much easier, provided it's sized and/or braced properly not to buckle.

I have a few strap come alongs that are long enough to span the two walls.

for the shoring post, I'll see if I can get two 3x6 (made from two 2x6) to straddle the center beam, and look for a plate to distribute the load between them on top/bottom -- would that work? Would 1 post be enough, or two a better idea?
 

maxpower_hd

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Or just rake the snow. That looks better than the rafters in the original part of my house that was built in 1929. I have 2x4 rafters with 1x6 pine as the ridge pole. I need to do some structural work myself but I through in a few collar ties made of spring board (rough spruce) for now and there were a few spots where I put in some upright supports for now. It's all I could do in the time I had. I still rake the snow when there is more than 6" or so on it because I don't trust it anymore, especially now that I know how weak it is.
 

73RR

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The more posts the better as each will see less load than if a single is used.
It is getting late in the day, I hope you can get something in there.........:sad:
 
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LX-Markham

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...two 3x6 (made from two 2x6) to straddle the center beam, and look for a plate to distribute the load between them on top/bottom...

It would certainly go a long way in helping shore up the ridge beam. One is good, more is better. Depends on the span. I'd probably put a shoring post at about every 10'.
 

buddyboy

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make sure insurance is paid up and then do nothing.

if storm takes building out then build new building and post pictures here.

just joking.

you need extension cords and a lot of space heaters... melt the snow off the roof as it falls.
 

bczygan

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A few supports will certainly help.

I wouldn't worry about straightening it right now.

Simply support it with vertical members every 8' or so.

If a beam underneath is directly in the way, then run your supports from the ridge beam down to that one, and then place another support directly beneath each of them. Make those supports (2x4's will do), slightly long and then angle in place, down to the floor and then sledge the bottom vertical to create tight support between all. Quick and temporary insurance.

Understand?

Bill
 
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tyrenta

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A few supports will certainly help.
Simply support it with vertical members every 8' or so.

If a beam underneath is directly in the way, then run your supports from the ridge beam down to that one, and then place another support directly beneath each of them. Make those supports (2x4's will do), slightly long and then angle in place, down to the floor and then sledge the bottom vertical to create tight support between all. Quick and temporary insurance.

Given the time I have I think this is the quickest solution -- the span is only 20' so one I may just try and put up one at center and 3-4' off center each way

Dumb question -- nails the best option to sister the 2x4s?
 

CTyankee

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A few supports will certainly help.

I wouldn't worry about straightening it right now.

Simply support it with vertical members every 8' or so.

If a beam underneath is directly in the way, then run your supports from the ridge beam down to that one, and then place another support directly beneath each of them. Make those supports (2x4's will do), slightly long and then angle in place, down to the floor and then sledge the bottom vertical to create tight support between all. Quick and temporary insurance.

Understand?

Bill

Agreed..There is no need to try and straighten the ridge at this time. It's a temporary fix.....you all are making this way too complicated. Heck even bracing the ridge with some angled supports as close to plumb as you can get them jammed under there would let me sleep tonight. Think I'd be more concerned about the winds we're expecting. Stay safe.
 
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tyrenta

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Fairfield County, CT
Agreed..There is no need to try and straighten the ridge at this time. It's a temporary fix.....you all are making this way too complicated. Heck even bracing the ridge with some angled supports as close to plumb as you can get them jammed under there would let me sleep tonight. Think I'd be more concerned about the winds we're expecting. Stay safe.

I'm with you no interest in straightening that's where my original saw horse idea came from thought it would be quick and easy

I'm sure ill get it all shored up and a tree will fall on it:willy_nil
 
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