SWAG Portaband table

[ndnchf]

After looking at a lot of vertical portaband home made tables and SWAG's, I decided to take the easy way and order a SWAG V3.0 table. I really like the quick removal feature and that the plate is pre-drilled for multiple saws.

https://www.swagoffroad.com/SWAG-Portaband-Tables-Accessories_c_35.html

The only thing that concerns me just a little is that the full weight of the saw hangs on the two plate mounting screws. I suppose its not a problem, SWAG sells a lot of these and I've not seen any reports of a failure. But I'm wondering if anyone has added a support under the bottom of the saw to take some of the weight off those two little screws. I've got a couple ideas on how to do it, just wondering if anyone else has done it.

 

[islandkent]

Nope. I like you have not seen any complaints. I personally have not experienced any bad side effects. Just sits there and does it's thing. Great alternative to a full sized bandsaw.

 

[Showkey]

For the Milwaukee saw the bolts are not the only support......as the Swag frame inner locks with the saw frame.

All good and no issues after years of use.

 

[islandkent]

Milwaukee X2

 

[Slednut]

No problem here and I have a Dewalt saw, a foot pedal switch is a necessity.

Don't get the Swag pedal, the cord is too short.

 

[Mark_17]

I have the same table with the HF Bauer saw. No issues. Works flawlessly. I'd recommend it to anyone.

 

[ndnchf]

Good the hear, thanks guys.

 

[HenryAZ]

No problem here and I have a Dewalt saw, a foot pedal switch is a necessity.

Don't get the Swag pedal, the cord is too short.

I've mounted mine to a piece of plywood, then bolted the plywood to the bench in two of many M12 holes I have tapped in my bench top. I don't anticipate ever using it handheld, but I might have reason for freeing up the bench space.

Rather than a foot switch, I zip tied the saw's switch permanently on, and mounted a metal electrical workbox on the left inside side of the table, with a toggle switch just on the outside. A short cord, about a foot long, (plug end cut off from a 12/3 extension cord) is used to plug in and and power the saw. This SWAG setup makes a wonderful stationary metal cutting saw. A plus is their miter gauge also fits my 14" Rockwell wood bandsaw.

 

[ndnchf]

I don't care for the foot switch, to me its just something to get in the way. So while waiting on the SWAG table to arrive, I put together this switch box that will bolt to the side of the table. I split the receptacle so one is powered all the time for a flex LED light, the other controlled by the switch is for the saw.

 

[Slednut]

I've mounted mine to a piece of plywood, then bolted the plywood to the bench in two of many M12 holes I have tapped in my bench top. I don't anticipate ever using it handheld, but I might have reason for freeing up the bench space.

Rather than a foot switch, I zip tied the saw's switch permanently on, and mounted a metal electrical workbox on the left inside side of the table, with a toggle switch just on the outside. A short cord, about a foot long, (plug end cut off from a 12/3 extension cord) is used to plug in and and power the saw. This SWAG setup makes a wonderful stationary metal cutting saw. A plus is their miter gauge also fits my 14" Rockwell wood bandsaw.

I have a place I store mine while it's not being used so I made these brackets so there is no need to bolt it to the bench.

I also have a miter box and to keep the blade from wondering I made this extension for the guide block. I explain how it's made here, its post #26.
https://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=476179&page=2

 

[ndnchf]

Thanks Slednut, that's a pretty neat blade guide mod you have. I've saved your photos, I may just copy it!

 

[Mark_17]

For the record, I haven't bolted mine down. I have used it a few times without having it bolted down and it weighs enough to keep it planted.

 

[islandkent]

Same here Mark. Mind you I'm not pushing big stock through it. Mostly aluminum. But if I was doing bigger stuff I could see it being bolted/clamped down.

 

[ndnchf]

Still waiting on my SWAG table to arrive, the postal service is still running very slow. But in the meantime I wanted to see if the plate mounting surface on my Bauer saw was 90 degrees to the blade. With a good machinist square I first checked the existing plate. I was rather dismayed to see it was off by quite a bit. It is stamped steel plate with a trough for the screws heads to fit in. But I noticed the screw heads are a little wider than the trough, so they don't seat at the bottom. I then removed the stock plate and put the square on the mounting surface. I was very pleased to see it was just about perfectly 90 degrees I think the oversize screw heads cause the stock table to sit crooked. But that is mostly a moot point because the SWAG table is a flat plate and should sit flat on the mounting surface.

I understand the SWAG kit comes with new machine head mounting screws. But I'll take these OEM screws over the lathe and reduce the heads a little to fit properly in the trough, just in case I need to put it back on for portable use.

Back to my original question about the need to provide additional support so its not all hanging on the two screw. They seem to thread in pretty deep and looks like they are stout enough to carry the load with no additional support.

 

[Blt2Lst]

Can someone tell me if the saw needs to be removed from the SWAG table to change the blade?

 

[ndnchf]

This shows the oversized head of the Bauer plate mounting screws. I turned them down to fit the trough. Now the plate sits level.

 

[ItsNemo]

These are also an easy switch option:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07R95FMS5/?tag=atomicindus08-20

 

[Slednut]

Can someone tell me if the saw needs to be removed from the SWAG table to change the blade?

You unscrew one thumb screw to remove the saw from the table.

In most cases you can also use the saw as a portable by removing the thumb screw.

 

[WoodsTruck]

I replaced the thumb screw with a longer bolt (1.5") and a jam nut. I can get a 1/2" wrench over the bolt head to the nut to tighten/loosen it. Keeps the saw more stable as I have had the thumb screw back out once and made a mess.

 

[ndnchf]

I'm still waiting on the SWAG table, so today's project was to copy slednut's blade guide extension. Since my saw is a Bauer, I had to adapt his idea. I used materials I had on hand, I just had to run to the hardware store for a few pieces of metric hardware.

Mine is made from 3/16" x 1.5" steel bar. It has just two positions - high (shown) and low. In high the throat is about 1.200", low it is about .200". If I need to cut anything larger, I'll just put the guide back in the stock position.

It's not perfect, but it came out well and it seems to work fine. Thanks slednut!

 

[BD1]

I made my own table and base for my Milwaukee Portaband. It's been hanging from the guide screws for 10 years now and still going. Nothing fancy and works awesome. My saw is fixed permanent but blade removal is easy with table slot in front.

 

[mattm55]

I ordered the V4 about the same time.
-USPS delivered it about 10 business days so USPS is slow. I have mine with the Milwaukee saw, thumbscrew and allen screw for vertical adjustment.
-Used a 123 block or similar to align.
-Added the Lenox bladed so we'll see how it holds up.

Net: Works good so far with just the original support.

-Blade change needs to have saw removed.
-I mounted mine on a tool stand from AMZ and added casters.
-Both switch and the GE option over the foot pedal looks like a better solution.
Matt

 

[ndnchf]

My SWAG v3.0 table arrived yesterday. I went right to work test fitting everything. I'm very impressed with the table design and build quality. They really make a nice product.

After mounting the blade plate, I found it had a slight tilt to the left. Fortunately I picked up a $5 Harbor Freight feeler gauge the other day, just to use as shim stock. After a little trial and error I found .020" blade was just right to level the table.

After painting, the switch/outlet box was mounted and rubber feet added. A magnet based LED lamp puts light where my aging eyes need it. I cut a lot of short pieces, so I made a simple sliding fence from scrap around the garage. The extended upper blade guide works very well. The saw cuts square and true. I may eventually get a mitre gauge, but this suits my needs for now.

 

[ndnchf]

I've got this laser line gizmo I'm thinking about adding. Maybe I should start a new thread - "Pimp my bandsaw" lol!

 

[eyeball]

No problem here and I have a Dewalt saw, a foot pedal switch is a necessity.

Don't get the Swag pedal, the cord is too short.

If mine is representative it is poor quality.

 

[Jagmandave]

I wasn't completely happy with mine either, the holes to attach the saw to the table were not square to the slot for the blade. However, they sent me a blank plate and I drilled and chamfered my own holes and got it squared away.

 

[ndnchf]

I cut some 3/4" tubing into short pieces for a project. The sliding fence really works well to keep the tubing square to the blade. Afterwards I checked the cut with a precision machinist square. The cut was just about perfect.

The effort to make the extended upper blade guide, shimming the saw blade square to the table and making the fence was well worth the time to do.