The portable Bosch jobsite saw is likely using a brushless or universal motor which are typically rated at peak HP, any heavy contractors saw, hybrid or most certainly true cabinet saws are using induction motors which are rated as continuous duty HP. The jobsite saw likely converts the AC wall current to DC to control the direction of the motor and is very much like the motor in a hand held power tool. The induction motor uses a capacitor to kick the motor in the right direction when it starts because without it it would just randomly spin in in whatever direction it happened to be the path of least resistance from where it stopped (this is not true of 3 phase induction motors but that's a whole other subject). The 220V 3HP motor alone in my '90s vintage Delta Unisaw weighs about as much as the whole Bosch jobsite saw and requires a magnetic contactor start switch to turn it on. The inrush current of an induction motor will make the life span of a typical mechanical switch fail in a pretty short time span unless it is seriously beefy. This is why electrical wall switches often have a HP rating stamped somewhere on them, this is specifically referring to HP ratings of induction motors and not motors in general. The two types of motors are really apples and oranges.
Even "rated" the "same", stalling the Bosch with a regular thin kerf blade is probably not all that difficult to do, stalling a 4HP 220V cabinet saw is really, really difficult to do, like challenge worthy. The downside of this is that if the jobsite saw were to get a cut tweaked and wedged into the back side of the blade it'll probably stall out and make a loud humm before it trips it's overload protection or the breaker of the circuit it's plugged into, the cabinet saw will, without missing a beat, hurl the wood across room at highway speeds like a helicopter blade being released from the attached aircraft. If your hands happen to be "ANYWHERE NEAR" the blade when this happens they may very well get dragged into the blade. This is why THE most important piece of safety equipment on a table saw is the splitter or riving knife, without it where you THINK your hands are can change way faster than you can possibly react.
Also kinda wanted to point out too that the term "Cabinet Saw" has traditionally meant a saw whose mechanical workings are all mounted to the Cabinet. Meaning the "table" is just a top on that cabinet and is not mounted to any powered mechanicals or blade adjustment mechanism it's just independently mounted to the cabinet and "floats" so that adjusting squareness of it is just loosening a few bolts and rotating it within the slop in the mounting holes. In a contractors saw or a hybrid saw the mechanicals are hung from the table top and the "cabinet" is basically just a box supporting the whole assembly. In one you adjust the top to the blade and in the other the blade to the top. I also want to point out that this is "traditionally" what this meant and what "hybrid" was intended to indicate, a saw that sort of looked like a cabinet saw but was constructed like a contractors saw, though marketing departments have started to blur that definition.
