Table Saw Repair
- Thread starter onething
- Start date
seber
Well-known member
The proper method is flamespray. But it ain't cheap. I would see if the arbor can be replaced first. Next would be to turn it down and add a sleeve. There are sleeves made for the purpose but since you already need a lathe, just have it turned to a standard bushing. Unless you are comfortable welding it on, I would add a keyway for the pulley. Check around for a flamspray place. Competition may ave lowered the price since the last time I used it.
Firebrick43
Well-known member
seber has the two methods I would use.
However have you tried to find a new part. I would be surprised that one is not available.
However have you tried to find a new part. I would be surprised that one is not available.
Of course. Virtually anything can be repaired. Find a replacement arbor on EBay. Replace it and the bearings, Find a similar parts saw, buy it. Remove the arbor, build the shaft with weld, machine it back, cut a new key slot. Replace the saw with a $50-$150 Craigslist saw.
RoninB4
Well-known member
Is repair possible? The short answer is yes, if some machining can be done. It "might" be ok without re-machining but the pulley could wobble and produce rumbling at the bearings or a cyclic blade speed. That all depends upon how loose the pulley now fits to the shaft. The shaft looks like it has some wear on the OD but this wouldn't be an issue with a skim cut to restore it. An undersized ID on a new pulley could make a fit as good as new.
Looks like the PO lost the key and just cranked the set screw in (idiot) but not enough to lock it in place (or use two set screws to lock in with a dab of "blue glue") and it loosened up enough to allow the pulley to partially rotate, causing the original key-way to be mangled.
I'd want a new key-way milled in, woodruff or square, on the other side of the shaft. The cost of buying a new shaft vs. machining the old one will have to be weighed. Were it me, I have the machinery and wouldn't bother looking for a new shaft. If you were closer I'd have you bring it over (no charge).
I don't think it's worth the cost of flame spraying (I could be wrong about that). I most certainly would not advocate something as hack as welding the pulley to the shaft even if the pulley is not zinc die-cast.
Looks like the PO lost the key and just cranked the set screw in (idiot) but not enough to lock it in place (or use two set screws to lock in with a dab of "blue glue") and it loosened up enough to allow the pulley to partially rotate, causing the original key-way to be mangled.
I'd want a new key-way milled in, woodruff or square, on the other side of the shaft. The cost of buying a new shaft vs. machining the old one will have to be weighed. Were it me, I have the machinery and wouldn't bother looking for a new shaft. If you were closer I'd have you bring it over (no charge).
I don't think it's worth the cost of flame spraying (I could be wrong about that). I most certainly would not advocate something as hack as welding the pulley to the shaft even if the pulley is not zinc die-cast.
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BlindViper
Well-known member
The easiest solution would be to mill a new key way on 180deg from the damaged one.
Firebrick43
Well-known member
The shaft diameter is worn as well by the picture which would cause a wobbly sheave
*****Its not a pulley*****
Renegade1LI
Well-known member
I would look for a replacement and see if you can find one for the right price, probably a bunch around.
finn
Well-known member
I have an old Craftsman saw that my brother got as a present from our parents when he was in high school in the mid to late seventies so he could build a cedar sauna in their basement.
I sort of inherited it around 1990.
It has the same crappy arbor and pulley attachment, and the same wear. Everyone here brags on how great USA made tools were back in the day, but wtf.. they were poorly designed. Who in their right mind would design something to transfer 2hp through a woodruff key and set screw. Keys should be used for indexing only, not torque transfer.
I have come up with a couple more Craftsman saws, but the later ones are direct drive, which would certainly be an improvement compared to the crappy belt drive.
Mine still works, sort of. I don’t use it much anymore, though.
I sort of inherited it around 1990.
It has the same crappy arbor and pulley attachment, and the same wear. Everyone here brags on how great USA made tools were back in the day, but wtf.. they were poorly designed. Who in their right mind would design something to transfer 2hp through a woodruff key and set screw. Keys should be used for indexing only, not torque transfer.
I have come up with a couple more Craftsman saws, but the later ones are direct drive, which would certainly be an improvement compared to the crappy belt drive.
Mine still works, sort of. I don’t use it much anymore, though.
Firebrick43
Well-known member
Why would you need to index a v belt sheave? Why would you need to index a flat pulley or a polyv pulley?
While I will admit that compression taper bushings such as QD are better, the titans of industry such as martin, TB woods, and gates have been using keys/keyway/keyseats, both square and woodruff to transmit torque on V belt drive systems in millions of applications for well over a 100 years. Gates invented the v belt in 1917. Keys were used on flat belt pulleys for 100 plus years before that to transmit torque.
"Torque transmission by keys is the most common and widely used power transmitting method."
furthermore, all the good cabinet saws are belt drive, from the unisaw, powermatics, and even felder and hammer sliding saws, not direct drive.
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Renegade1LI
Well-known member
While they may be American made, craftsman saws were at the low end of quality. Good for the weekend user not really made for a cabinet shop. Now my belt drive Powermatic 66 has no issues with belts,pulleys or shafts, just better quality.
finn
Well-known member
You don’t need to index it. That’s the point. You don’t drive something with a 2 hp motor through a key. That’s bad engineering.
There should be some sort of substantial axial clamp load or interference fit. No need for a key .
Firebrick43
Well-known member
millions of machines, many of them industrial running much more than 2hp are used everyday, for years on end and have for hundreds of years. Thats standard engineering.
There is nothing wrong with a key transmitting torque.
I don't know how many 40 hp electric motors I have put together that the sure-flex couplings are held on the shafts with a key and set screw running pumps 24/7.
How many high pressure coolant pumps that are running 5hp thru the lovejoy couplings with a key and a set screw.
Unisaw sheave
powermatic sheave
Don't confuse someone putting together something wrong or made of poor materials like pot metal as poor engineering of keys.
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Have a saw that did about the same thing. Found a couple shims to hold it true and put it together with JB weld. Mine is a $50 saw so wasn't going to spend too much to fix. Has been working fine for several years, runs smoother than before my fix.
RoninB4
Well-known member
-My reply should not be taken as "piling on" or one-upping. I'm hoping to add the exposure I've had over to numerous engineered applications of power transmission.
Keys are often used for indexing but that's NOT the only application and ARE used for torque transfer largely due to simplicity.
I've seen/made keys/key-ways used in chain/belt drives and shaft couplings far more than any direct drive configuration. Even motorcycle final drive sprockets using keys have been around for decades that far exceed 2 HP. Indexing by key does exist but has seldom been the reason for using one. It does happen but I've rarely seen a key sheared and that's usually been when a set screw backs off or the key was poorly made, allowing excessive movement to accelerate wear.
As others have pointed out, shoddy materials and/or bad assembly does not constitute a bad design. Direct drive almost always means proprietary/expensive components and eliminates component choices.
RoninB4
Well-known member
-Not to question your experience but are you certain this end of the shaft is NOT for a pulley? OP states that it is a blade arbor but also says it's where the smaller pulley mounts. I'm using sheave and pulley as interchangeable words, for some industries they are different components.
karoc
Well-known member
If your craftsman saw has no Sentimental value I would replace the saw. As another poster suggested search for part or that whole assembly. Replacing that arbor will be project in itself. I see Craftsman TS on CL all time.
RoninB4 what he means on one end shaft for blade, on other end pulley.
RoninB4 what he means on one end shaft for blade, on other end pulley.
Walkers
Well-known member
Simply google ‘difference between sheave and pulley’
Firebrick43
Well-known member
V Belts ride on sheaves, flat belts ride on pulleys. Just because a lot of people bastardize it doesn't mean its right. They are not interchangeable and is an aberration.
What's the point of language if anyone can just make up what it means or change the definition on any given day.
Go to TBWoods, Martin, or the inventor of the V belt, gates, and they call it sheaves.
https://www.gates.com/us/en/power-transmission/power-transmission-components/sheaves.html
Sure, and in your same catalog you link you can find V-pulleys, so the manufacturer uses both terms interchangeably.
Kind of screws up your point, don't it!
If you Google up V-pulleys you will find thousands of pulleys, often from manufacturer's web sites.
Thank you for the input. That's why I posted the question here. Perhaps I should have said belt drive thingie next to the blade 
.
I bought the saw from a friend who needed the money so there is no emotional connection. It can go away.
My birthday is tomorrow . . . but truth is, My need for a table saw is not that great and I have other tools.
.I bought the saw from a friend who needed the money so there is no emotional connection. It can go away.
My birthday is tomorrow . . . but truth is, My need for a table saw is not that great and I have other tools.
I wouldn't toss it so easily. There are plenty of parts on eBay and possibly new parts available. It would be a fairly easy repair and if you don't want to keep it it should sell for $150.Thank you for the input. That's why I posted the question here. Perhaps I should have said belt drive thingie next to the blade
I bought the saw from a friend who needed the money so there is no emotional connection. It can go away.
My birthday is tomorrow . . . but truth is, My need for a table saw is not that great and I have other tools.
https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_fr...l1313&_nkw=craftsman+table+saw+arbor&_sacat=0
Firebrick43
Well-known member
where in the gates catolog will you find v pulleys? You will find b belt idler pulleys, which is correct as it rides on the back (flat) part of the belt.(and is flat)Sure, and in your same catalog you link you can find V-pulleys, so the manufacturer uses both terms interchangeably.
Kind of screws up your point, don't it!
If you Google up V-pulleys you will find thousands of pulleys, often from manufacturer's web sites.
You make a good point. That said, who cares? You and everybody that read it knows what he meant. Further, Craftsman calls it a pulley. So, since we need it to be correct, in this case, it truly is a pulley. I try not to be the language police on the internet. Why bother. After all, it isn't a skill saw, it is a circular saw unless he is actually talking about a skilsaw. It isn't a saws all, it's a reciprocating saw unless we are actually talking about a milwaukee Sawzall. But I digress. Lot of words get batardized over the years. At some point *** hole only meant the hole in an ***, these days it means much more.
Firebrick43
Well-known member
If I started calling you "little girl" would you get upset? Of course you would. But why would you, because words and their meaning matter. You can be part of the problem or part of the solution. I choose the latter
Oh it was pretty tough, I put the word pulley in their search and come up with this one in a few seconds. I am sure there are more.
Let me hold your hand,
https://www.gates.com/us/en/search.p.7807-000000-000000.html
Firebrick43
Well-known member
It says "Light duty sheaves"
Pulley is not on the page! Their search engine may be programmed to deal with incorrect slang, but the results use the correct terminology.
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Firebrick43
Well-known member
Ok, sorry, your right. Pulley gives you 54 results, one result is a sheave and has pulley in the middle of the text.
Type in sheave and you get 30 results that are correct.
That means there is at least one idiot working at gates. The best places on earth have at least one idiot that slips through the cracks.
Argue all you want, it just shows that manufacturers, (and one you used to back up your point!), use the terms interchangeably.
Do you seriously think one guy did the catalog development and proof reading before the catalog was sent to the public?
Funny, bold print title says "sheave"
directly under calls it a "pulley" ???
confusing and bad copy if you ask me
More fire for the flames.
Not a manufacturer, but a reasonably respected wholesaler,
https://www.grainger.com/category/p...-pulleys/v-belt-pulleys-idlers/v-belt-pulleys
Not a manufacturer, but a reasonably respected wholesaler,
https://www.grainger.com/category/p...-pulleys/v-belt-pulleys-idlers/v-belt-pulleys
Firebrick43
Well-known member
yea, a janitorial supply warehouse that dabbles in some industrial items. That what I would call a trusted source.
Jakemedic
Well-known member
I quickly read the post, and didn’t see the vintage of the Craftsman saw. Mine was a 2005 cabinet saw. Something to think about is Sears really didn’t make their power tools. I needed an arbor for mine, and found it was made by another company who had a dealership in Canada. Once we got past the language barrier (they spoke french), I ordered the complete assembly with new bearings and had my saw back up and running. The most difficult part was squaring the cast iron to the arbor. I purchased a tool for that and got that squared away. The parts were not cheap, but they were available. They also had the belt for it, so I changed that while I was at it.
here is a link to my post asking about repairing my saw.
www.garagejournal.com
here is a link to my post asking about repairing my saw.
Craftsman 152.221240 Table Saw
Hello and Seasons Greetings., Sometime around 2006, my bride purchased me a Craftsman 152.221240 table saw. It is a beautiful table saw or was until I had a problem with power, or actually lack of power. I opened it up and found the nut and key holding the pulley to the arbor was missing...
www.garagejournal.com
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There are so many terms out there that are used interchangeably. Are you willing to die on the hill every single time it doesn't line up with your idea?
How do you feel about the terms truck vs pickup? Couch vs sofa? Driveway vs lane?
Are you going to argue about each of those? Guess what? YOU are the only one with a problem.
Firebrick43
Well-known member
No I am done. If people want to dumb down the English language, then so be it. People think they are cats and dogs nowadays, who am I to stand in the way of "progress"
Meursault74
Well-known member
Are you trying to indicate a direction relative to his position or indicating that he is correct ?
I've never heard the term "sheave" before. Right or wrong, those look like pulleys to me. In any case I learned a new word today.
Firebrick43
Well-known member
I am acknowledging that he indeed found one link out of many does indeed have the word "pulley" in the text of the page, even though thousands of other ones on their catalog, and that page in the title uses the word sheave.Are you trying to indicate a direction relative to his position or indicating that he is correct ?
I've never heard the term "sheave" before. Right or wrong, those look like pulleys to me. In any case I learned a new word today.
Meursault74
Well-known member
Sheave vs pully
Here's the "official" Sheave vs pulley website link. They say "Sheave and pulley are terms that are often used interchangeably" without judgment, it seems.
I needed one of these to repair my table saw a few years back. I searched for "pulley" and ordered this through my local ace hardware. Saw runs great with it in place.
www.acehardware.com
I knew what you meant. I was just joking around a little with the language police hat on.
Here's the "official" Sheave vs pulley website link. They say "Sheave and pulley are terms that are often used interchangeably" without judgment, it seems.
I needed one of these to repair my table saw a few years back. I searched for "pulley" and ordered this through my local ace hardware. Saw runs great with it in place.
Chicago Die Cast 2 in. D X 1/2 in. D Zinc Single V-Grooved Pulley Mfr# 200A5 - Ace Hardware
Machined to exact tolerances and balanced to reduce vibration, the solid die cast iron pulleys will make any power transfer system run smoother & quieter.Find the PULLEY 2X1/2 at Ace.
www.acehardware.com