Table Saw
- Thread starter kxlexus
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Zeke
Well-known member
Used. But not too used. They are all over the place. Heavy is good unless you want a bench top model to store away when not in use. I have an old Makita 8" that I take with me when needed. It's cut 1000's of feet of smaller stock and occasionally a chunk of oak.
I have a Ryobi BT3000 system that I picked up cheap and it works OK. In fact, it works well but it's something you have to get used to. I have all the attachments like the router fence, etc. I built an extension that holds a chop saw and utilizes the fence. That makes the saw sort of a universal work station when I get it out.
I also have an old cast iron Craftsman that sits permanently in the shop. Nice basic saw and with a good blade it does as good as I need. It's nice to have one set up and ready to cut only having to plug it in.
I have a Ryobi BT3000 system that I picked up cheap and it works OK. In fact, it works well but it's something you have to get used to. I have all the attachments like the router fence, etc. I built an extension that holds a chop saw and utilizes the fence. That makes the saw sort of a universal work station when I get it out.
I also have an old cast iron Craftsman that sits permanently in the shop. Nice basic saw and with a good blade it does as good as I need. It's nice to have one set up and ready to cut only having to plug it in.
retfr8flyr
Well-known member
What do you plan to cut with it, do you want it mobile, would you consider a used saw? The drawback to buying used is you most likely get one new enough to have the modern safety features, like a riving knife. Safety is very important with a table saw as they are responsible for thousands of injury's every year.
With table saws the heavier the better but that's if you plan on making precision cuts for woodworking. If you just want a saw for occasional use and general cutting of 2x4's and such, then a benchtop model would be your best choice. Lowes has a decent saw, for not much money.
http://www.lowes.com/pd_486267-5201...ws&pl=1¤tURL=?Ntt=table+saws&facetInfo=
With table saws the heavier the better but that's if you plan on making precision cuts for woodworking. If you just want a saw for occasional use and general cutting of 2x4's and such, then a benchtop model would be your best choice. Lowes has a decent saw, for not much money.
http://www.lowes.com/pd_486267-5201...ws&pl=1¤tURL=?Ntt=table+saws&facetInfo=
Get a 10"......you'll regret buying a smaller one. This is my import that I have had for many years, and would buy again. It is mobile, but not too portable, but suits my needs. All the table extensions have been moved to the RHS for cutting sheet goods (the guide rails were re-drilled to suit). A ten inch blade will allow you to rip most pieces you will encounter.
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Ross/Kzoo
Well-known member
Don't consider anything other than a 10" or you will be rebuying later to get a 10". There are many good used 10" heavy duty saws on Craigslist for $200-500. Just wait for the right one. All good advise so far.
PS It's good to give your location in case someone close by can give you some help.
http://swmi.craigslist.org/tls/4599211086.html
http://grandrapids.craigslist.org/tls/4598391309.html
PS It's good to give your location in case someone close by can give you some help.
http://swmi.craigslist.org/tls/4599211086.html
http://grandrapids.craigslist.org/tls/4598391309.html
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retfr8flyr
Well-known member
If you have plans to expand your use in the future, I would spend a little more and get the new Delta saw. This saw is still movable yet it has a good fence and will make precision cuts. This is more then you were planning on spending but it will do just about anything you would ever want to do with a saw.
http://www.lowes.com/pd_510897-5201...ws&pl=1¤tURL=?Ntt=table+saws&facetInfo=
zcar751
Well-known member
Why do you need a table saw? If it is construction oriented then a good contractors saw will fit the bill. If you are looking for closer talerance work like furniture and cabinets then you need to look to cabinet saws. $500 will get you a real good contractor saw but your looking at the lower end used cabinet saws.
Keep in mind a cabinet saw will weigh in around 300 lbs. while most contractor saws are intended to be somewhat portable.
Also the lower end cabinet saw tends to be better than most contractor saws.
Keep in mind a cabinet saw will weigh in around 300 lbs. while most contractor saws are intended to be somewhat portable.
Also the lower end cabinet saw tends to be better than most contractor saws.
Ross/Kzoo
Well-known member
I totally agree. I have had the Delta Unisaw @ ~$1800 for about 15 years and could have easily got by with the saw that you linked.
My Old Tools
Well-known member
By used. All of the old Delta Rockwell and older Powermatics are heavier and better than just about anything made today, certainly better than Borg stuff. Look for a Delta Model 10 contractor and be prepared to jump on a Unisaw if one shows up under $700.
retfr8flyr
Well-known member
As I stated, I would hesitate recommending buying a used saw for a novice, inexperienced user. The older saws don't have any of the new safety features, like spliters, blade guards and riving knives. He also wouldn't know what to look for checking out a used saw to get a decent deal. I just think a novice guy, that doesn't even plan to use the saw that often, would be much better off with a new saw.
Ross/Kzoo
Well-known member
Let us know what you decide.
cdestuck
Well-known member
I have a couple. Biggest being a Delta Unisaw. One of my smaller ones is a bench top Dewalt. One heck of a saw. Use it for most of my dado blade word. Great fence system
Be sure to check them
Out.
Be sure to check them
Out.
My Old Tools
Well-known member
I disagree, but what else is new. Most old saws have splitters or you can make one in 10 minutes. Most factory guards are tossed because they are unworkable. After market guards are available and better. Riving knives pretty much exist only on European saws. The most dangerous thing I see is people trying to work sheet goods on crappy under powered bench top saws. It depends on what you need a saw for. Tablesaws excel at ripping.
If the material is any size, you need weight (cast iron) and horsepower. If you want to use a dado blade, you need an arbor that will hold a 3/4" stack and still have room for the nut. There's a reason every professional shop has either a Unisaw/PM66 or a big European slider.
I have a Ryobi BT3100 in storage waiting for the additional garage to get finished. I had extension rails on it to produce 60 inch rip capacity. I took the extension rails off when I got a track saw. The track saw is a better way to cut up sheets of plywood. The Ryobi is not sold anymore but if you see a used one at a good price, it is a good accurate saw with a small table and a relatively small motor. With a sharp blade I've cut 3 1/2 inch hardwood.
For a new saw the Home Depot Rigid saw seems like a good buy. It is around $500.
For a new saw the Home Depot Rigid saw seems like a good buy. It is around $500.
wyo george
Well-known member
Whatever you go with, get a quality blade. You'd be amazed at the difference a good blade can make!
Voi
Well-known member
Riving knives have been required on all US sold table saws for a while now.
Agree with the rest of your post.
You would be surprised the drop off from your saw to a contractor saw or a down sized cabinet saw. I have a pair of Craftsman Contractor 10" table saws along with two Delta bench top saws. I put a linked belt on the Craftsman saws, removed the belt memory issue, well worth the money IMO. I use Unisaws of various ages at work, Powermatic is my preferred choice though.
ez-duzit
Well-known member
You don't need a table saw for cutting 2x4's and plywood. One of the most difficult jobs one could think up is moving a full sized sheet of heavy plywood through a table saw. And 2x4's are worse! Get a chop saw (for the 2x4's) and a track saw. Even though I have 4 table saws, my Festool track saw has revolutionized my shop. Found mine for $350 on c/l.
I'd search CL for an older Craftsman saw, you can find something nice for around $125-150.
ScottsGT
Well-known member
I gave away my dads old Craftsman belt drive because I just had no where to store it. My garage is full of car, car tools, tool cabinets and lawn equipment.
Not to mention refrigerator and chest freezer with a few bicycles thrown into the mix.
It killed me to get rid of it, but I just had no where to store that behemoth. I do have a small 10" Delta that has a plastic chassis with an aluminum too. It stores out of the way under a shelf and I can use it by clamping it down to my workmate.
Not to mention refrigerator and chest freezer with a few bicycles thrown into the mix.
It killed me to get rid of it, but I just had no where to store that behemoth. I do have a small 10" Delta that has a plastic chassis with an aluminum too. It stores out of the way under a shelf and I can use it by clamping it down to my workmate.
Riving knives are not modern. Many old American, direct-drive, industrial saws had them: Oliver, Tannewitz, American, .... The Unisaw did not and can not have a riving knife, however, due to its blade raising mechanism. But the Unisaw sold very well so most manufacturers followed right along so that now, 60 years later, there is this misconception that riving knives are European.
My table saw is a Fay and Egan 511B. It weighs 2000 lbs!
My Old Tools
Well-known member
yes, I know sawa that weigh 2000# have riving knives. I don't think thst's what he's looking at. As far as I know there is no requirement for riving knives for saws sold in the US. They are making an appearance on newer saws, but there is no law requiring them. There is nothing a riving knife does that a splitter doesn't. Ripping is where it provides safety.
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http://www.homedepot.com/p/DEWALT-10-in-Compact-Job-Site-Table-Saw-with-Site-Pro-Modular-Guarding-System-DWE7480/204511988
I got one of these because I threw the store manager $150 for the open-box unit (it helped that I was buying $1,000 worth of other stuff)
I only use it once or twice a month and I have no complaints. With a good blade it EATS 2x lumber, and the rip fence is stronger than it looks. For the 10-12 cuts I usually need to make, I just put it on the floor and kneel next to it. We two-man walk full sheets through it once in a while.
It's not a Unisaw or a big old cast-iron Craftsman, but this little dude does all I need and it hangs on the wall out of my hair the rest of the time.
I got one of these because I threw the store manager $150 for the open-box unit (it helped that I was buying $1,000 worth of other stuff)
I only use it once or twice a month and I have no complaints. With a good blade it EATS 2x lumber, and the rip fence is stronger than it looks. For the 10-12 cuts I usually need to make, I just put it on the floor and kneel next to it. We two-man walk full sheets through it once in a while.
It's not a Unisaw or a big old cast-iron Craftsman, but this little dude does all I need and it hangs on the wall out of my hair the rest of the time.
jake00
Well-known member
I disagree
http://irsauctions.com/popups/bidde...ction=VMIVJ4PIZS1SOG1RWKLS8RT66QIB7J&id=18179
Crazy cheap deals on really nice saws can be had, just have to look.
I wouldn't reccomend a saw like this for a 1st saw. Hell, if I was a novice w a table saw, I'd read everything I could about safety, then probably use one under the eye of an experienced user, then determine if I needed one.
(I've got 4 pm66 1 jet 1 north field and a saw stop )
mdbeck1
Well-known member
I used to cut plywood on the table saw by myself. I finally decided that it was too dangerous and went back to cutting it with a skill saw and 3-4 sawhorses. Measure carefully and clamp a straight edge to the plywood for the skill saw and cut away. Then I decided to go one more step and ordered the plans for a home built panel saw. It's currently usable but not entirely complete (still need cord control, saw return springs, measuring guide, ...). I just used it to cut up the plywood for a set of bookcases and it did good. Lots less hassle than the sawhorses.
For 2X4s.... I use the chop saw or the radial arm saw. Unless of course I'm cutting them the LONG way.
My advice... Get together with someone that has a woodworking shop and "help" them with a few projects. You will see pretty quickly what tools you really need. Be careful. One minute's inattention means that you could lose skin and bone.
For 2X4s.... I use the chop saw or the radial arm saw. Unless of course I'm cutting them the LONG way.
My advice... Get together with someone that has a woodworking shop and "help" them with a few projects. You will see pretty quickly what tools you really need. Be careful. One minute's inattention means that you could lose skin and bone.
SMKS
Well-known member
THIS. Good god, this.
(note - this post is written in a helpful, but good-natured joking tone)
To the OP-
This is GJ, so there are people who will act like you can't remove a bolt without a Snap-on electric impact or a long-handled SO dual 80 ratchet. Those same people will sometimes act like you can't cut a 2x4 without buying a massive, old cabinet saw off Craigslist that has no safety equipment of any kind. Heck, even a grounded plug would be bee too much for some people here.
But in the case of table saws and novices, I think a new saw is a good purchase. I'll stretch that to include close-to-new saws that include all the factory guards and equipment.
Some people here act like modern factory riving knives and guards are the bane of their existence, but I recently bought a new, moderately priced saw and I've had no problem working with the factory guards. I didn't buy the cheapest saw I could get, but I didn't shell out big bucks, either.
The saw has done everything I've needed. In the future, I can always sell it and get something bigger or different if I want.
I would encourage the OP to do a lot of research on safely using a saw and start with something with modern safety features (including Saw Stop, if that's in the budget or you find one used). If in a few years you've decided you're too good for blade guards, then you can search on CL for an ancient cabinet table saw that's been sitting unused under a tarp since it cut off grandpa's left pinkie...
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I'm waiting for a long debate about whether Portugal or Austria made the best carbide tips for WWII-era logging saws, which naturally ten members will actually claim to own.
THE GUY'S JUST ASKING ABOUT A ONCE-IN-A-WHILE TABLE SAW FOR GOD'S SAKE.
Most of the responses don't even pretend to answer the OP. Unfortunately it seems typical of this forum.
Burgerkong
Well-known member
Wadkins Bursgreen, but I don't think that's a good saw for your purposes. Lol.
The main problem with cheap saws you buy in big box stores is that they are small and rickety and don't stay square. I know cause I own a Ryobi I bought for $99 a long time ago when I thought a cheap saw would do. I still use it, actually, when I want to cut something and I don't care if it is straight.
The other thing is that the "modern safety features" on these saws end up getting thrown out because they are designed (poorly) only to meet a set of minimum requirements and not really to add safety.
For someone who wants to only cut plywood and dimensional lumber, a cheap table saw is a terrible tool for the job. It will only really help with ripping and how many times do you find yourself wanting to rip a 2x4? Cutting a sheet of plywood on one is miserable. A $50 skill saw and a straightedge gets the job done better, faster, and cheaper.
The other thing is that the "modern safety features" on these saws end up getting thrown out because they are designed (poorly) only to meet a set of minimum requirements and not really to add safety.
For someone who wants to only cut plywood and dimensional lumber, a cheap table saw is a terrible tool for the job. It will only really help with ripping and how many times do you find yourself wanting to rip a 2x4? Cutting a sheet of plywood on one is miserable. A $50 skill saw and a straightedge gets the job done better, faster, and cheaper.
softailgarage
Well-known member
You can't go wrong with an old Craftsman. They'll run forever, you can still find some with the anti-kickback and guards. Find one on CL, restore it and your good to go. I've restored and sold 5 and every customer has been happy, 3 of which were novices when it comes to table saws. Any saw, whether it's brand new or 50 years old can hurt you, but if you practice safety, learn about the saw, watch what your doing and have some common sense, your chances of losing a finger or hand are greatly reduced. Whatever you do, please don't go to Harbor Fright, we give those bastards enough of our money, try to buy American (which probably means old & used).
Playwme
Well-known member
I've got a Makita MLT100. 10 inch saw with all sorts of guards,guides and extensions. Large sheets are kind of hard to do by yourself but I tend to do those on a flatbed truck tray with a clamped guide and circular saw.
I love the makita because it's light and easy to shift it around. I use it on jobs all around the place so I can throw it on the truck easy and set it up where I want. It shares the same blade as my drop saw too
I love the makita because it's light and easy to shift it around. I use it on jobs all around the place so I can throw it on the truck easy and set it up where I want. It shares the same blade as my drop saw too
Please... Just get yourself a 10% coupon for The Home Depot and buy the RIDGID 10 in. 13 Amp Professional Table Saw. You cannot beat this saw for the price. I love, love, love it. You will also find many great write up and video reviews of this saw. It will cost you right up to your $500 budget, and it is worth every penny.
http://www.homedepot.com/p/RIDGID-13-Amp-10-in-Professional-Table-Saw-R4512/202500206
http://www.homedepot.com/p/RIDGID-13-Amp-10-in-Professional-Table-Saw-R4512/202500206
tez929rr
Well-known member
We bought this similar model with folding legs - the convenience is awesome. Park it in the corner of the shop and roll it to where we need it. I also found that it is designed to plug in a Rigid shop vac to catch most of the sawdust.
http://t.homedepot.com/p/RIDGID-15-...ortable-Table-Saw-with-Stand-R4510/100090444/
I'll agree with the members stating to use a miter saw to cut (not rip) 2x stock and a circular saw with a straight edge for plywood.
I'll stick with my recommendation finding an older Cman or something similar on CL. If you're not using it all the time, there's no reason to spend big money on it. You can find a CL deal cheaper than a smaller new table saw. I'd prefer to have an older belt drive saw rather than a newer direct drive saw.
I'll stick with my recommendation finding an older Cman or something similar on CL. If you're not using it all the time, there's no reason to spend big money on it. You can find a CL deal cheaper than a smaller new table saw. I'd prefer to have an older belt drive saw rather than a newer direct drive saw.
If you are not going to use it much I would definately recommend craigslist for a good used one. They are all over craigslist because people buy them for a specific use and then they end up taking up alot of floor space not being used. Don't be one of those people with a $500 obstacle thats always in the way. My Craftsman sits in the corner, with a miter saw and other tools on top of it, haven't used it in 10 years!
Boilerhouse
Well-known member
I can tell you what I did when I bought my tablesaw 30 years ago. I didn't have a specific project in mind, I just knew that I was evolving into some wood working. I looked at all the models at the time. I was unimpressed with some of the name brands, a couple of which have been mentioned here. They just seemed overpriced with too many flimsy plastic parts. I settled on a no name saw from Taiwan. It had everything I wanted; solid cast iron top, two solid cast iron extensions, even the motor was heavily built and most importantly, I liked the fence. It slid easily, stayed completely parallel to the blade and locked securely with a single clamp style handle at the front. It is considered a contractors model but there is nothing portable about it. It easily weighs over three hundred pounds and I have dismantled it for the two times I have moved it. It came with blade guard and splitter and anti kick back pawls - so this type of safety gear has most certainly been around for a while. I built an outfeed table for it which doubles as a work/set up table for projects and I have a side roller table so that large sheets of plywood or even melamine board are handled relatively easily. I now have 3 or 4 different blades and keep them sharp. The stock blade insert was replaced with a home made zero clearance insert made of plywood. I keep different sizes of push blocks with the saw and occasionally use a feather-board. I have used it hundreds (or more) times, just yesterday I used it to build a template for use in a steel project. When cutting, I do not extend the blade up too high, just enough for teeth clearance and I stand slightly to the left of the blade. I have never had a kickback but I have been told that our local ER treats more spleen injuries than cut fingers from table saw mishaps.
Voi
Well-known member
As far as I know I've been seeing them on all saws since 2008 or 2009, including the cheaper saws. I suggest anyone interested Google "Underwriters Laboratories standard table saws".