tahoe won't start
- Thread starter woody
- Start date
Privatejoker
Active member
Have a buddy beat on the tank while you crank.
MyKingdom
Well-known member
Is your Battery holding charge ?
Gregdoo
Well-known member
I'd check the fuel pump. My 92 GMC 5.7 has gone thru 2 or 3 fuel pumps. I replaced the initial one or two with a NAPA and they failed within a year. Purchased an OEM pump and am now beyond 4 years with it. It was worth the extra money for OEM to not have to remove the tank and pump annually!
cowboyjosh
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- Mar 11, 2010
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It's a CHEVY, Im not surprised.
Actually I LOVE my American made cars, I just couldn't resist being a smart ***.
My next thought is fuel pump, fuel pump relay, or you have a fuel injector or injectors out. Everything else working swell? While unlikely, it could also be a computer or other electrical issue.
Auzivision
Well-known member
Not much info to go on, so here we go. An engine only requires three elements to run. Air, Fuel, and spark.
If you turn the key and here the engine crank, you can most like assume you are getting air. That leaves fuel and spark.
Spark is easy enough to test with a cheap spark indicator. Since all the stuff you replaced mainly effects this, probably a good place to start.
That leaves fuel. A pressure guage is a good place to start chasing this down.
If this makes no sense, you probably need a mechanic.
If you turn the key and here the engine crank, you can most like assume you are getting air. That leaves fuel and spark.
Spark is easy enough to test with a cheap spark indicator. Since all the stuff you replaced mainly effects this, probably a good place to start.
That leaves fuel. A pressure guage is a good place to start chasing this down.
If this makes no sense, you probably need a mechanic.
cowboy73
Well-known member
Check the fusible link off of the battery positive terminal. My old Sunbird did the same thing. I replaced ignition modules, ECM etc. before I finally traced it back to that fusible link test for continuity at each end of it. I found out that current wasn't flowing through it all the way. No power to the ECM, no power to the ignition system. Replace the fusible link and fired right up.
An engine needs 4 things. You left out timing.
Lugnut64052
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- 275
I agree with this~
You're probably either not getting any spark, or not getting any fuel.
Here's an easy way to narrow it down~ spritz the air intake with a can of starting fluid for about ONE second and immediately hit the key. If it pops right off and runs for a couple of seconds, you're not getting any fuel.
If it cranks but nothing happens (doesn't try to start) you probably don't have any spark.
After this basis diagnosis, THEN you can further troubleshoot whichever way it leads you.
GeorgiaHybrid
Well-known member
Did you re-learn the crankshaft sensor after you replaced it?
Other than that, please read the above responses. Check for fuel flow and pressure. Check for injector pulses with a noid or similar. Check for spark at the plug. Let us know what is missing.
Other than that, please read the above responses. Check for fuel flow and pressure. Check for injector pulses with a noid or similar. Check for spark at the plug. Let us know what is missing.
My '99 GMC sub (5.7, 2wd) had the same problem. I replaced the fuel pump assemble and Spider twice, never got it to run reliably. Gave it to a friend, they could not get it to run either. Ethanol reeking havoc with the fuel pump assy was the unofficial diagnosis, but I never got to the bottom of the problem. Obama Motors.
hetkind
Banned
In '99 when the 'burb was built, wasn't Clinton still president, the 8 years of shub and two of Obama...and you blame Obama for poor quality of GM products made two presidents ago?
Wow...and I thought I had issues.
Northstar9126
Well-known member
While I think "Obama Motors" comment foolish, I think that he is refering to the fact that The Fed bailed out G.M.
CUSTOMCLINE
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and that started with bush!!!!
GeorgiaHybrid
Well-known member
What in the hell does Clinton, Bush or Obama have to do with the man's Tahoe not starting? Talk about going off track.
TheGrooveking
Well-known member
does the engine crank over when you try starting it? Have you checked for spark? We need info to help.
TheGrooveking
TheGrooveking
Transman304
Well-known member
Unplug the crank sensor lead and unwrap it about 10 inches up the harness and look for broken wire. Have seen this many times on the s series. keep us updated.
Mustangmike
Well-known member
Make sure that the crash sensor hasnt tripped and shut the power off to the fuel pump etc..Should be a reset switch location given in the owners manual
Privatejoker
Active member
5) compression
Having fun here guys, keep it light.
But, I do think Ethanol in fuels was the root of the issues my sub was having, and that was about the time frame when some auto mfg's were beginning to experience issues with incompatibility with Ethanol in their cars.
tdkkart
Well-known member
The manufacturers have been building ethanol compatible cars for 30 years.
And ALOT of people have been using ethanol as an excuse for 30 years.
yup ya got me
. Im not sure I have ever ran across a no start because it had no compression though. I have run across no compression because timing was off though. I guess my thinking is that even if you remove the rings, the engine will still develop compression if the timing is there. Damaged valves are another story, but those are usually the result of timing issues if its effecting all the cylinders. This is all assuming we are still talking about a no start. Running poorly is another story
Auzivision
Well-known member
You don't 'need' timing, but I agree an engine will run better when the timing is correct. It should fire (or maybe even back fire) if it's inorrect. Anyway you look at it fuel plus air plus spark equals exclosion. In this analogy flooded is bascially no spark... cranking the engine with the accelerator floored for a good bit (say 30/45 seconds) should be enough to dry out the plugs and get a little bit of fire.
He has fuel pressure, but nothign to prove the injectors are firing. I don't believe he has mentioned checking for spark. Either way, it appear he has ruled out 'mechinical' issue and should focus on electric or electronic.
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lowbucktruck
Well-known member
The OP didn't mention specifics on the motor, either. I've got a Chevy Tahoe of same vintage, 5.7L Vortec (and runs like a tank). The fuel pump does tend to go out on those trucks.
Check for spark yet?
Check for spark yet?
Auzivision
Well-known member
Now you are getting too technical... In my analogy, compression is a subset of air. Also, compression is 100% necessary for and engine to fire. It might not run worth a darn if it's down on compression, but it will run or at least fire.
If all cylinders have no compression, most likely something major is lunched and more often than not it isn't going to crank like normal. Since the engine is cranking its... it's probably compressing. A simple compression test would answer this question, but it would be way down my list of things to check at this point.
In reality, most engines work on the same principles whether it's gas, diesel, turbine, ect... It's all boils down to:
1) ****
2) Squeeze
3) Bang
4) Blow
The method how this is achieved differentiates the engines.
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If you dont have timing (correct or incorrect), you dont have a running engine. period.
Timing is a very big "need" of a running engine.
I still dont think we have heard back from the op yet though
hetkind
Banned
What we have is a d*ckw*d who this his own little Fox, Rush, Hannity and Beck driven political fantasy is a good reason to blame the current president for every sin under the sun.
Wonder who he blames when he can't get his cheney up after he has already forked over a few greasy bills the local *** worker.
Auzivision
Well-known member
I don't agree.
I'm not sure if you are referring to valve timing or spark timing, but either way there is a fair amount of latitude (+/- at least 10 degrees)... this is a 99 so the ignition timing it's not mechanically adjustable and wouldn’t be high on my list to start chasing.
Besides, you are splitting hairs with my analogy. Timing is a subset of spark. Either you have spark or your don't. period.
rburke65
Well-known member
Ok...I'll ask again.."Got spark?"
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Like I said- I have only hunches on my sub's problem, I threw my checkbook at it for a year to correct the problem ($4k+), nobody could fix it- I gave it away as I could stand it any longer and felt bad selling it knowing it had a chronic problem starting.. My boat has had ethanol issues from fuel sitting and phase separation as well as the ethanol attacking the lining on my rubber USCG approved fuel hoses.
hetkind
Banned
I would run a compression test to verify the timing chain hasn't just a tooth or two, that will verify compression and timing.
60 psi fuel pressure is certainly adequate, and I understand we have spark...
or, if this still has a distributor (which I think it does), set the engine on TDC on compession stroke an see where the rotor points...
I got stuck one day on a old Camaro with the 70's style EFI and we never could figure out why it wouldn't run...but a new distributor fixed it.
And somedays you are down to slitting wiring harnesses with a razor blade trying to find an internal flaw.
Howard
bgott
Well-known member
You need compression for an engine to start. I've seen quite a few of them over the years that I had to pull the plugs and give the cylinders a few squirts of oil to get running.
nehog
Well-known member
Uh, does this thing have anti-theft keys? (Passlock) If yes, the wires from the cylinder may well have broken (common problem) and you either have to replace the cylinder or disable the passlock (using a fixed resistor, the same value as in the key) permanently.