The 1/2” Square Drive Thread

[Dave455]

We have a number of specialised threads for folks to show / discuss particular tools (and even particular colours) but it struck me that we haven’t got one for 1/2” drive, so I thought I’d start one!

There is no doubt that 3/8” drive is probably the most popular drive size here. I’m not surprised, it’s probably my favourite too. Yet for automotive work, I just can’t survive without 1/2” drive.

3/8“ drive sets regularly go up to say 22mm, yet in reality, while you might shift a 22mm sump plug, a normally torqued fastener of that size is going to be beyond most 3/8” drive handles. Even a 17mm wheel bolt on a BMW needs at least a 15” handle to budge, and preferably an 18”. Nuts of 30mm and 32mm need to be shifted for a simple bearing change, and that’s well above 3/8” drive range.

It wasn’t always that way. In the U.K. 1/2” drive was always the choice of “serious” engineers and mechanics, whether you were working on machines in a factory, or on vehicles. 3/8” drive became popular as vehicles became smaller, and was of course the standard in the aviation world, but it always had limits.

When I bought my first car, my Dad gifted me a very practical 1/2” drive set which was pretty essential. I’ve expanded a bit since then.

Here’s the top compartment of my main chest, which is exclusively 1/2” drive. I organise things differently to many. I don’t have a “socket” drawer, but rather a drawer or compartment for each drive size. Everything in there fits together.

I do, as may be seen, have different grades of tools, as befits different uses. Some Snap On, some older Britool, and some KoKen too. Broadly speaking, Metric and SAE in the middle, Whitworth on the right, Torx on the left.


This isn’t all of it. The downside of 1/2” drive is that it needs space to store, so I store much elsewhere, and just use my top box for my ”ready use“ tools. I have other “sets” of more specialised tools (such as these deep sockets) or tools for special purposes (such as “clean” sets for aviation purposes).


I’m particularly interested in how other users of 1/2” drive manage for mobile use.

One answer of course, is not to use it at all. My own “road box” doesn’t contain any 1/2” drive, but it’s limiting, and I generally end up bringing some for each job.

An “off road” enthusiast friend carries predominantly 3/8” drive, but carries just an 18” breaker bar in 1/2” drive, and about six sockets. That setup is never optimum for speed, but does the job. I carry a 1/2” breaker bar in most of my vehicles also.

Another option is to carry predominantly 1/2 “ drive, and supplement with a generous selection of 1/4” drive. This was common years ago, and I wonder if it will become more so as the range of 1/4” drive tools offered by the better manufacturers ever expands?

Please feel free to share your thoughts, and your pictures!

 

[Wamsutta]

I'm spying a 1/2 inch drive Williams long handle ratchet in the middle of everything.

 

[honcho]

Ljiving in Europe in the 80s, I noticed auto mechanics using 1/2" for just about everything. A few years back I asked for opinions about using just 1/2" and 1/4" drive tools. Most respondents poo-pooed the idea, saying that 3/8" should be the core drive size in a tool set. I'm perpetually going through my tools in a quest (a not very successful one) to pare down but I'm resigned to having my core tools in 3/8" drive.

 

[908Jim]

Improvements in 3/8 ratchet designs combined with no hassle warranties have contributed to the trend of pushing the bounds of 3/8 drive. Of course, just because you can use 3/8 doesn't mean you should. 1/2 has higher surface area on drive ends so you'll see less wear over time. You also have a higher cross section so a given torque will impart less stress for a given load so you'll have a longer useful life of the tool.

Sure, the tool has a lifetime warranty but there's logistics of warranty and likelihood of rejection for normal wear.

 

[Zewnten]

My mobile set is the stahwille sae and metric 12 point set I posted a while back. Upgraded the breaker bar to a 24" and ratchet to a matco 18" flex head.

As for odd tools I have recently completed a set of extended flare crowfoot wrenches Snap On made for Case equipment. Took 4 years to find them. eBay saved searches kept notifying me too late.

 

[Dave455]

I'm spying a 1/2 inch drive Williams long handle ratchet in the middle of everything.

Oh yes! Great tool, and superb value.

I quite like the “vintage” pattern too. If I was putting together a tool kit for a classic, I’d definitely favour the Williams for that reason.

 

[AEAdam]

Improvements in 3/8 ratchet designs combined with no hassle warranties have contributed to the trend of pushing the bounds of 3/8 drive. Of course, just because you can use 3/8 doesn't mean you should. 1/2 has higher surface area on drive ends so you'll see less wear over time. You also have a higher cross section so a given torque will impart less stress for a given load so you'll have a longer useful life of the tool.

Sure, the tool has a lifetime warranty but there's logistics of warranty and likelihood of rejection for normal wear.

I think you are rignt. The usage of 1/2” in the past wasn’t due to a convenience or superiority, but merely the lack of high strength, high quality, long 3/8” ratchets.

I’ve been enjoying watching greasy fingers. He uses a lot of 1/2” drive and seems to own only short ratchets and wrenches, cleverly extending them, or hitting either with a heavy steel hammer etc. This is the way it used to be.

One of my friends has a nephew who is a Toyota mechanic. The nephew told his uncle he never has need for his 1/2” drive. I suspect with impact guns, you probably could do almost everything with 3/8”. I don’t own a 3/8” impact, but I have only a single lonely set of 1/2” chrome.

 

[Dave455]

Improvements in 3/8 ratchet designs combined with no hassle warranties have contributed to the trend of pushing the bounds of 3/8 drive. Of course, just because you can use 3/8 doesn't mean you should. 1/2 has higher surface area on drive ends so you'll see less wear over time. You also have a higher cross section so a given torque will impart less stress for a given load so you'll have a longer useful life of the tool.

Sure, the tool has a lifetime warranty but there's logistics of warranty and likelihood of rejection for normal wear.

Yes, undoubtedly!

My long / flex head 3/8 ratchet is my most used ratchet by far, and probably my favourite. It’s got the leverage to shift things like brake caliper bolts, but it’s small enough to use in tight spaces, such as on belt tensioners.

Sometimes though, 1/2” is preferable. Those long 3/8 handles always have a bit of flex, which works against you breaking loose a fastener, whereas a 1/2” handle is that much stiffer.

I don’t think I’ve ever used anything but 1/2” drive on wheel bolts. I’d just feel uncomfortable applying that much torque to a 3/8 socket.

 

[rooster59]

Engine bays used to have clearance for 1/2 inch, barely room for 3/8 inch in my stuff now. But then surprised Honda even uses bolts.

 

[F-22]

It wasn’t always that way. In the U.K. 1/2” drive was always the choice of “serious” engineers and mechanics, whether you were working on machines in a factory, or on vehicles.

It is still the case here in Slovenia. I assume so in most of central Europe? I've been to Italy and Germany a lot and always see 1/2" and 1/4" sets. 3/8" is very rare. I actually order 3/8" for use in the factory where I'm employed for the workers, because it is less likely anything goes "missing". They don't have a need for 3/8" sockets at home cause it's the size they do not own anything else in, and same for ratchet... Would need a whole set to be worth it to steal it (at least that's my thought process, and the tools do seem to stick around while 1/2" tools quickly grow legs).

Also seems like companies such as Gedore, Hazet and Stahlwille (and over here Unior) seem to diversify more in 1/4" and 1/2" size? You get most sets in those sizes, at least from what I see in the hardware stores here. 3/8" is the dusty one in the corner, maybe more destined for the anglosphere markets?

I have all three in all kinds of lengths and sizes at this point at home. My go to is more and more the 3/8" cause they are light and the sockets are thinner so it is easy to get everywhere.

Even more commonly today, I use the cle-a-pipe wrenches. I only discovered those recently, very uncommon tool globally but so simple and easy to use. I just don't care to fumble with ratchets and sockets, the correct wrench is handy and the L shape allows me to spin it like a screwdriver so it can be very fast to use too...

 

[CoogarXR]

I told the story before, but my first "real" socket set was a craftsman 1/2" drive set. I used the hell out of it, and it is still my go-to set to this day. I use it and my 1/4" stuff almost exclusively. I rarely use 3/8 drive except for spark plug jobs. Seems like all the cool spark plug tools are always 3/8" lol.

 

[Chrome Vanadium Cody]

One thing I’m curious about is people’s breakdown of how often they use standard length vs long handle 1/2” drive ratchets. I’ve noticed I use long handle a lot more and the people I work with are even more extreme, most of them don’t even own a standard length one. Are we in a bubble or is this the norm?

 

[four.cycle]

@Dave455 - I would posit that part of the reason that 3/8" drive has become so popular in this country is that the tool manufacturers seem to have put all their "specialty" attachments in their 3/8" drive baskets: hex bit adapters, Torx bit adapters, etc. are all more readily available in a broader range of sizes than what you will find in either 1/4" or 1/2" drive.
Not saying this is THE reason, but I do believe it's a factor.

I got by fine with 1/4" and 3/8" drive for years, until I started trying to rip mowers apart that had been out in the rain for ten years. I finally discovered the "why" part of 1/2" drive. I found a mess of 1/2" drive Craftsman on Craigslist cheap.

As for "road box" - I carry a cheapie 1/4" drive set (because it contains a mess of "bits") and a set of 1/2" drive sockets and a long breaker and a standard-length ratchet. That covers everything I am capable of repairing on my Ranger. There's no issue with "space limitations" - there's all kinds of room under the hood.

(Thanks for reminding me to add the duct tape and wire to the kit before I take off for the coast again.)

 

[Samuel D]

@Dave455 - I would posit that part of the reason that 3/8" drive has become so popular in this country is that the tool manufacturers seem to have put all their "specialty" attachments in their 3/8" drive baskets: hex bit adapters, Torx bit adapters, etc. are all more readily available in a broader range of sizes than what you will find in either 1/4" or 1/2" drive.
Not saying this is THE reason, but I do believe it's a factor.

But is this a chicken or egg scenario? Maybe they did that because American car mechanics had already chosen 3/8″-drive for their primary tools.

I find it interesting that 3/8″-drive took off in the US of all places. I would have expected Europeans to be more interested in saving money, space, and weight versus 1/2″-drive, and European vehicles to have more access problems that 3/8″-drive solves. Because as far as I can tell, 3/8″-drive is replacing 1/2″-drive in many cases, more so than replacing 1/4″-drive. Though of course proper tool nerds have all three drive sizes (and more in many cases).

(Thanks for reminding me to add the duct tape and wire to the kit before I take off for the coast again.)

I have tried using tool rolls and bags like your photo shows and run into rust problems. Latest casualty was a new Knipex 87 00 100 Cobra XS that lasted maybe two months. One whole side of the jaw was covered in rust. That was the side lying on the floor in a cotton bag with other tools under the passenger seat of my BMW F20. Car interiors (and exteriors, LOL) are subject to terrible condensing humidity where I live (Netherlands).

 

[four.cycle]

^ If you were a member of the hiking community, you would know our mantra about COTTON KILLS.
It also attracts and holds onto moisture.

"Chicken and egg" - interesting concept. It is a possibility.
Early on, there was no 3/8" square drive in the U.S. Pretty much everything started with 1/2" drive and it went from there.
I think you could discuss the "why" part about 3/8" drive ad nauseam and would never arrive at a conclusion - there are all sorts of possible "reasons" for its popularity: weight, space requirements, and cost come to mind first.

What I've found interesting is that there seems to be something of a move away from 1/2" drive here (at least on GarageJournal.com) that I would never have anticipated 40 or 50 years ago.

 

[Dave455]

It is still the case here in Slovenia. I assume so in most of central Europe? I've been to Italy and Germany a lot and always see 1/2" and 1/4" sets. 3/8" is very rare. I actually order 3/8" for use in the factory where I'm employed for the workers, because it is less likely anything goes "missing". They don't have a need for 3/8" sockets at home cause it's the size they do not own anything else in, and same for ratchet... Would need a whole set to be worth it to steal it (at least that's my thought process, and the tools do seem to stick around while 1/2" tools quickly grow legs).

Also seems like companies such as Gedore, Hazet and Stahlwille (and over here Unior) seem to diversify more in 1/4" and 1/2" size? You get most sets in those sizes, at least from what I see in the hardware stores here. 3/8" is the dusty one in the corner, maybe more destined for the anglosphere markets?

I have all three in all kinds of lengths and sizes at this point at home. My go to is more and more the 3/8" cause they are light and the sockets are thinner so it is easy to get everywhere.

Even more commonly today, I use the cle-a-pipe wrenches. I only discovered those recently, very uncommon tool globally but so simple and easy to use. I just don't care to fumble with ratchets and sockets, the correct wrench is handy and the L shape allows me to spin it like a screwdriver so it can be very fast to use too...

Yes, the German manufacturers do seem to cater for 1/2” drive more. Hazet, for example, offer regular, long, long flex and even telescopic ratchets in 1/2” drive, but not in 3/8.

The simple pipe wrenches suit certain types of working. I think we all tend to minimise the weight / bulk we carry in our mobile boxes, but sometimes end up with a lot of small parts that are easily lost. One wrench per size, offering some of the utility of the socket wrench, is a solution.

I must admit I have a few of these, and they’re great if you’re working on garden machinery, chainsaws etc.

 

[Dave455]

@Dave455 - I would posit that part of the reason that 3/8" drive has become so popular in this country is that the tool manufacturers seem to have put all their "specialty" attachments in their 3/8" drive baskets: hex bit adapters, Torx bit adapters, etc. are all more readily available in a broader range of sizes than what you will find in either 1/4" or 1/2" drive.
Not saying this is THE reason, but I do believe it's a factor.

I got by fine with 1/4" and 3/8" drive for years, until I started trying to rip mowers apart that had been out in the rain for ten years. I finally discovered the "why" part of 1/2" drive. I found a mess of 1/2" drive Craftsman on Craigslist cheap.

As for "road box" - I carry a cheapie 1/4" drive set (because it contains a mess of "bits") and a set of 1/2" drive sockets and a long breaker and a standard-length ratchet. That covers everything I am capable of repairing on my Ranger. There's no issue with "space limitations" - there's all kinds of room under the hood.

(Thanks for reminding me to add the duct tape and wire to the kit before I take off for the coast again.)

Yes, I think there is something in this.

But also, if you look at the range of sizes you typically need in “specialist” bits, say 3 to 10mm in hex, and maybe T30 to T60 in Torx, most of them just suit 3/8 drive.

That looks like a good mobile kit - going down the 1/2 and 1/4 drive route. The 1/4” drive sets with bit adaptor and bits are almost an essential now, given the variety of fasteners that can turn up.

I like the look of that tool bag!

I’ve always been a believer in carrying a few materials / consumables as much as the tools. Cost is minimal and I’ve done so much with so little over the years.

 

[terrific]

^ If you were a member of the hiking community, you would know our mantra about COTTON KILLS.
It also attracts and holds onto moisture.

Really would be nice if manufacturers would specify if their canvas bags, rolls, etc. are cotton or synthetic.

 

[Dave455]

But is this a chicken or egg scenario? Maybe they did that because American car mechanics had already chosen 3/8″-drive for their primary tools.

I find it interesting that 3/8″-drive took off in the US of all places. I would have expected Europeans to be more interested in saving money, space, and weight versus 1/2″-drive, and European vehicles to have more access problems that 3/8″-drive solves. Because as far as I can tell, 3/8″-drive is replacing 1/2″-drive in many cases, more so than replacing 1/4″-drive. Though of course proper tool nerds have all three drive sizes (and more in many cases).


I have tried using tool rolls and bags like your photo shows and run into rust problems. Latest casualty was a new Knipex 87 00 100 Cobra XS that lasted maybe two months. One whole side of the jaw was covered in rust. That was the side lying on the floor in a cotton bag with other tools under the passenger seat of my BMW F20. Car interiors (and exteriors, LOL) are subject to terrible condensing humidity where I live (Netherlands).

If you look at the early ad’s for 3/8” drive it was always advertised as something for “limited access”. Snap On called it “Ferret” for that reason, but it was always an accessory to a 1/2” drive set, not a replacement.

I think it was the aviation industry that first started using it as a “standard” size, and that’s still the case today.

Rust can be an issue with tools kept in a vehicle. I carry a small can of WD-40 in my portable box, and wipe down tools after use. I‘m also starting to favour chromed pliers etc for mobile use, though I don’t like them generally.

Ultimately though, I keep all my ”vehicle based” tools in waterproof boxes. The smallest kit in my small sports car is just one plastic box that seals tight. My daily driver has this plastic “Keter” case that holds both tools and parts, but still seals well.


In the family’s most reliable vehicle I just carried these few items. There was just enough for the few tasks I needed, but the cotton bag you can just see wasn’t a success. I‘ve replaced it with another plastic box now.

 

[four.cycle]

I like the look of that tool bag!

It's a great bag. Well made. Only problem is: fully loaded, it does NOT fit behind the seat of the Ranger.

 

[AEAdam]

I have a question.

I find 1/2” drive tools clumsy. But the sockets aren’t objectionable. Typically for me, my 1/2” dr sockets start at 12mm. They neck down pretty good, but not unusable.

I’ve heard so much talk here about 3/8 drives in 1/4” ratchet bodies. Why aren’t there any 1/2” drives in 3/8” bodies? Or are there? I’d be far more interested in such a tool. I have b sockets in sizes only available in 1/2” drive.

One of my favorite 1/2” dr ratchets is the SO stubby flex. But it’s a pretty big tool. I feel like I’d like an F80 with a 1/2” drive.

Anyone?

 

[Pexto]

... Why aren’t there any 1/2” drives in 3/8” bodies? ...

Astro makes one: https://www.amazon.com/Astro-Tools-91210-Nano-Ratchet/dp/B01JBNLW1W?tag=atomicindus08-20

I don't have this particular one, but I've got two other Astro ratchets and consider them extremely good value.

 

[four.cycle]

Thorsen Tool Co. 1/2" drive SAE socket set

Craftsman 1/2" drive SAE socket set

Craftsman 1/2" drive Metric socket set

 

[Chrome Vanadium Cody]

I have a question.

I find 1/2” drive tools clumsy. But the sockets aren’t objectionable. Typically for me, my 1/2” dr sockets start at 12mm. They neck down pretty good, but not unusable.

I’ve heard so much talk here about 3/8 drives in 1/4” ratchet bodies. Why aren’t there any 1/2” drives in 3/8” bodies? Or are there? I’d be far more interested in such a tool. I have b sockets in sizes only available in 1/2” drive.

One of my favorite 1/2” dr ratchets is the SO stubby flex. But it’s a pretty big tool. I feel like I’d like an F80 with a 1/2” drive.

Anyone?

1/2" drive in 3/8" body ratchets seem more popular in Europe. I'm guessing it's because people there use the strategy of mainly owning 1/2" drive and 1/4" drive with less 3/8". I have one, a Hazet 916K. This is the older 30 tooth model. They also make one which is the same idea in their new 90 tooth series called the 916HPK. Other Euro brands I'm aware of that make these are Heyco ("Talenta" 50-40-10) and Beta (920/55X).

For me it turns out a stubby 1/2" drive ratchet with a regular head (Top "Handy Ratchet" RH-4S) has been useful way more often than the Hazet but I'm sure it just depends on the work different people end up running into.

 

[jsaw]

One thing I’m curious about is people’s breakdown of how often they use standard length vs long handle 1/2” drive ratchets. I’ve noticed I use long handle a lot more and the people I work with are even more extreme, most of them don’t even own a standard length one. Are we in a bubble or is this the norm?

I never use standard length ratchets at work. I do have a couple 1/4" standard length at home.

 

[Semi-hole mechanic]

I grew up with older parents and my dad used his Craftsman 1/2” set and 1/4” set for everything. He finally bought a 3/8” set of KMart Pro in metric in the late 70s when he needed a set to work on his car as Ford was changing to metric. I still use his old 1/2” and 1/4” sets with the addition of metric sockets. I really don’t use 3/8” as much as the other 2 except for my torx and e-torx which are mostly in 3/8”.

 

[shoggoth80]

Half inch is probably the least represented in my box. But, it's the go to for wheels and suspension work. Only have a group shot at the moment. OLD Snap On 71-10 with recently rebuilt guts (the kit for the 710 fits), and an SK are the go to in half inch ratchets. Also have a recent production Craftsman that's not represented. My sockets are mostly Armstrong impacts that have been hard used.

 

[rust in the eye]

My use of 1/2" drive is mostly confined to suspension work with large-ish (often rusty here in Chicago) fasteners that require significant grunt.
I've heard that 3/8" drive isn't as popular in Europe as here with many skipping from 1/4" right to 1/2".
Personally, the lighter the tool is the more I like it.

 

[Chrome Vanadium Cody]

I never use standard length ratchets at work. I do have a couple 1/4" standard length at home.

I see your location is Geneva NY, that tracks, i grew up 45 minutes from there and have vivid memories of always needing a cheater pipe to deal with the rust on my car

 

[nadogail]

When I started buying tools, 1/2" drive was standard for serious work. That was about 1954.
3/8 Drive was a novelty.

 

[Dakotadadv8]

As I get older the 1/2 inch drive or any power tools are my go to or outsource.

 

[Dave455]

I have a question.

I find 1/2” drive tools clumsy. But the sockets aren’t objectionable. Typically for me, my 1/2” dr sockets start at 12mm. They neck down pretty good, but not unusable.

I’ve heard so much talk here about 3/8 drives in 1/4” ratchet bodies. Why aren’t there any 1/2” drives in 3/8” bodies? Or are there? I’d be far more interested in such a tool. I have b sockets in sizes only available in 1/2” drive.

One of my favorite 1/2” dr ratchets is the SO stubby flex. But it’s a pretty big tool. I feel like I’d like an F80 with a 1/2” drive.

Anyone?

That is a very good question!

The only one I could think of was the Hazet 916K that Chrome Vanadium Cody mentioned.


Yes, A Snap On Dual 80 compact would be quite a tool.

I’ve been quite late to the compact ratchet party, only acquiring a 3/8 in 1/4 body (Snap On) a couple of years back, but already it’s a much used tool. Just the thing when you have a load of 3/8 sockets to hand, but need to remove some plastic covers or an undertray with an 8 or 10mm.

I can see me acquiring a KoKen Z Series / Zeal compact too, as KoKen seem to be big on these.

I suppose one other option would be the 1/2” drive Z Series / Zeal. Standard in some respects, but as compact as all the Z Series / Zeal are. I haven’t seen any reports of thesecyet.

 

[tamaraw]

I have done quite a bit of research on 1/2" in 3/8" body, here are the ones I am aware of:

Hazet 916K (legacy 30 tooth) and 916HPK (HiPer 90 tooth)

Beta 920/55X (the only round head on this list!)

Proto J6008RK rebuild kit (discontinued), drops in to pretty much any Proto pear head. I used one on an early Plomb pebble ratchet.

Tone RH4CHS (stubby), RH4FCHS (stubby flex), RH4CH (regular), RH4FCH (regular flex), RK-RH4CH rebuild kit fits any Tone pattern ratchet (ex: blackhawk, powerbuilt)

Snap-On SF710, SF710A, SF720, SF720A, SF730, SF730A, maybe others? All 20/30 tooth afaik. Rebuild kits pop up occasionally but you would have to bore a regular 3/8 bottom plate larger if you were planning a conversion.

Astro 91210

Heyco Talenta 50-40-10 (has integrated spinner similar to their Vericat line)

 

[ChevyEFI]

I will be back in this thread.
3/8 is compromise.

 

[four.cycle]

Granco 1/2" drive Metric 12-point socket set made for a government contract. 10 mm - 32 mm
Sockets are marked with those two mysterious dashes on each side of the size stamping - and again, I think these were made by National Tool of Dallas, but that's just my opinion. (See those same dashes on my Thorsen sockets in post #23 above.)
I gave these to a buddy of mine so he had a decent set of 1/2" drive metric shallows. He really likes them. Pretty sure Granco filled contracts for aerospace - the plating on these is marvelous.



Granco Industries NSN 5120-01-116-6047 23-pc 1/2" dr metric socket set
Granco Industries NSN 5120-01-116-6047 23-pc 1/2" dr metric socket set

 

[AJHD]

I’ve heard so much talk here about 3/8 drives in 1/4” ratchet bodies. Why aren’t there any 1/2” drives in 3/8” bodies? Or are there? I’d be far more interested in such a tool. I have b sockets in sizes only available in 1/2” drive.

This is an option, 1/2" anvil with 3/8" body.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01JBNLW1W?tag=atomicindus08-20

 

[Dave455]

Some 1/2” drive sockets and accessories “from the vault”!

A Stahlwille set with metric sockets from 8 to 30mm. I formerly had a trade account with a Stahlwille dealer, and lacking many larger metric sockets, purchased this new. Within a week I was offered a set of used Britool sockets which I pressed into service straight away. The 6 point Stahlwille’s remain on standby…!


I’ve always liked the smooth shape of the Stahlwille, it’s very practical. You can use it without worrying about the finish too much either. I’ve been using 1/4” and 3/8” drive Stahlwille as my “go to” for some years.

I don’t really like the plastic trays though, or for that matter the foam inserts that replaced them. Both are space wasters, and sensible design would reduce the overall size considerably.

The case for this set is 21 x 11 inches - more of a metal suitcase!


This Britool set that belonged to my Father, crams probably three times the number of tools into a case only slightly bigger. I have come to believe that these boxes were made by Langenau in Cleveland U.S.A.


Finally, some Whitworth sockets and accessories by KoKen. Sockets from 3/16” to 5/8” Whit (1/4” to 11/16” BS). I still need to source, or make, a box for these.

 

[134k]

.

 

[AJHD]

Some 1/2” drive sockets and accessories “from the vault”!

A Stahlwille set with metric sockets from 8 to 30mm. I formerly had a trade account with a Stahlwille dealer, and lacking many larger metric sockets, purchased this new. Within a week I was offered a set of used Britool sockets which I pressed into service straight away. The 6 point Stahlwille’s remain on standby…!


I’ve always liked the smooth shape of the Stahlwille, it’s very practical. You can use it without worrying about the finish too much either. I’ve been using 1/4” and 3/8” drive Stahlwille as my “go to” for some years.

I don’t really like the plastic trays though, or for that matter the foam inserts that replaced them. Both are space wasters, and sensible design would reduce the overall size considerably.

The case for this set is 21 x 11 inches - more of a metal suitcase!

Not crazy about the plastic (or foam) organizer, but that's a damn nice set otherwise.

 

[F-22]

A Stahlwille set with metric sockets from 8 to 30mm. I formerly had a trade account with a Stahlwille dealer, and lacking many larger metric sockets, purchased this new. Within a week I was offered a set of used Britool sockets which I pressed into service straight away. The 6 point Stahlwille’s remain on standby…!

I’ve always liked the smooth shape of the Stahlwille, it’s very practical. You can use it without worrying about the finish too much either. I’ve been using 1/4” and 3/8” drive Stahlwille as my “go to” for some years.

I don’t really like the plastic trays though, or for that matter the foam inserts that replaced them. Both are space wasters, and sensible design would reduce the overall size considerably.

I wonder why they put in both the breaker bad and the T handle in such sets. The T handle is still used a lot here in Europe, but it just seems a bit excessive to include both in a set cause they are kind of able to do the same thing for the most part. The breaker bar is maybe a bit more versatile even. Probably just tradition...

That case is huge. Must say I like the rounded metal Hazet ones more (or the Unior brand also has very nice rounded cases, just with plastic hinges - though the seem to work and also protect the metal when you put it on the ground).