Between 265 & 485 SQ/FT The 12-Gauge Garage
- Thread starter Jack Olsen
- Start date
Workspaces sized between 265 and 485 squarefeet.
txvwnut
Well-known member
Re: Kind of a cool part-time job
Didn't you have a run in with "the man" earlier this week for your driving?
Didn't you have a run in with "the man" earlier this week for your driving?
James E
Well-known member
Re: Kind of a cool part-time job
Appropriate music in that video because I am seriously jelly.
Appropriate music in that video because I am seriously jelly.
ddawg16
Well-known member
Re: Kind of a cool part-time job
So.....mmmmm.....think I can drive my company car on that track?
That skid pad should be mandatory for all drivers. Ours is not as fancy....trustee with a firehose wetting down our skid pad....and our cars have slicks on the back
Jack....real question....have you tried the skid pad with the traction/stability control turned off?
So.....mmmmm.....think I can drive my company car on that track?
That skid pad should be mandatory for all drivers. Ours is not as fancy....trustee with a firehose wetting down our skid pad....and our cars have slicks on the back
Jack....real question....have you tried the skid pad with the traction/stability control turned off?
wingnutthehutt
Well-known member
Hi Jack, I just watched a couple of videos on your channel, left a comment on the garage vid. I watched the Quick Jack video and now have a question. What's the story with your daily? The under car shot showed the lower control arms and, to me, they did not appear to be stock. Just curious. Congrats on the new coaching gig!
poppinjohnnies
Well-known member
My boys play gaga ball at boy scout camp and they can't seem to get enough of it. The camp nurse hated it though. Seems that 90% of the camp injuries that week were a result of the gaga ball pit.
OP
Thanks! I saw the comment.
I'm pretty sure the control arms are stock. At least, I've never done anything to the suspension, and I bought the BMW off a lease when it was three years old.
Funny you should mention that. The latest request was to see if there was a way to decrease 'gaga fingers' (scraped knuckles) with some sort of different surface like packed clay or gymnastic padding. As I write this, I'm at a loss for finding something that would be padded but also able to 'float' on top of asphalt. It would have to withstand rain and also the hard lateral loads of the kids as they dart back and forth while they play.
Outlawmws
Well-known member
I thought that game was intended to be safer than dodge and slaughter ball? (We did the latter on rain days in HS PE. two teams, LOTS of balls, and mayhem in the gym.)
Jack, maybe the stuff they use for track surfaces which is a rubber-like surface?
Jack, maybe the stuff they use for track surfaces which is a rubber-like surface?
OP
It's safer than out-and-out dodge ball, I think. But there's a lot of bending low for the ball. My back would give up in a hurry, I think.
I think the granular stuff is called 'wet pour.' I've used it before, but the hang-ups for it in this application are 1) cost (it's expensive), and 2) whatever I do needs to be able to be removed later. I think with that stuff the rule is to remove the asphalt first.
But it might be the best way to go, even if it ends up being permanent.
There are also tiles of that stuff (or something similar), but the costs are prohibitive, probably because school buyers are usually less cost conscious in the first place and partly because of liability costs with playground equipment in general.
I think the granular stuff is called 'wet pour.' I've used it before, but the hang-ups for it in this application are 1) cost (it's expensive), and 2) whatever I do needs to be able to be removed later. I think with that stuff the rule is to remove the asphalt first.
But it might be the best way to go, even if it ends up being permanent.
There are also tiles of that stuff (or something similar), but the costs are prohibitive, probably because school buyers are usually less cost conscious in the first place and partly because of liability costs with playground equipment in general.
OP
Now I'm thinking about a large horse stall mat for the Ga Ga pit. Does anyone have experience with the stuff?
jimgood
Well-known member
I do. What do you want to know?
EDIT: I'll just tell you what I can remember and you can ask if there's something I missed.
- The 4 x 6 x 3/4" mats come in plain edged and interlocking edged.
- They're very heavy. The easiest way to move them is to use two channel locks, one in each hand, to grab them and drag them. If you have to go through doorways, roll them up and put them on a hand truck while you hold the overlapping end with one hand.
- If you move them by hand only, it will test the endurance of your grip strength for sure.
- To cut them, mark it with a silver Sharpie. Bend it away from the cut along the line and cut with a utility knife. You'll likely have to make several passes but bending it helps reduce friction as the knife cuts into the material. Make sure you have plenty of spare blades.
- If you plan on covering the entire interior of the Ga Ga pit, I would go with interlocking mats.
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OP
Thanks! How 'soft' are they -- I know that's a hard thing to describe. I'm thinking of using them in the ga ga pit (where softness isn't an issue), but also under a climbing set -- would they absorb the impact of a kid falling, or do you think they would be too hard, compared to other playground flooring options?
wingnutthehutt
Well-known member
I haven't been under a newer Bimmer. Thought I saw (adjustable) tubular arms and figured the stockers were cast aluminum. Shrug. Thanks for taking the time to answer.
My neighbors all had (quarter/dressage/race) horses when I was growing up. I would say falling on one of those mats is better than falling directly on the asphalt but not much of an improvement. Slightly more of an improvement for grinding knuckles. Figure your average horse is over 1000 pounds, some up to a ton, so they're pretty dense and scrape proof. Just make the kids wear gloves.
My neighbors all had (quarter/dressage/race) horses when I was growing up. I would say falling on one of those mats is better than falling directly on the asphalt but not much of an improvement. Slightly more of an improvement for grinding knuckles. Figure your average horse is over 1000 pounds, some up to a ton, so they're pretty dense and scrape proof. Just make the kids wear gloves.
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richeyc2000
Well-known member
Hi Jack, I'm here in Ireland so might not be any use to you but there is good information of mats from this Irish company, might be useful or not!! [emoji4]
We have them in all our stables and horse walkers. Great product and a lifetime use considering they are designed for 600/800 kg animals.
https://easyfix.com/product/easyfix-pro-loose-lying-surface-for-horses-in-stables/
We have them in all our stables and horse walkers. Great product and a lifetime use considering they are designed for 600/800 kg animals.
https://easyfix.com/product/easyfix-pro-loose-lying-surface-for-horses-in-stables/
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jimgood
Well-known member
Not soft enough to prevent a concussion I would think. They are pretty dense. About like a tire tread. Better than asphalt or concrete but not by much. They're intent for horses is to reduce the impact of hoof with the ground, which is a very small area getting driven by several hundred pounds. When you spread that load out more than a couple square inches, the cushioning is very minimal because it doesn't yield as much.
I'm not familiar with playground flooring so I can't compare.
I think the ideal would be thinner rubber matting that's around 1/4" on top of thick foam.
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OP
Thanks. It seems like they might work for the Ga Ga Pit, since cushioning isn't needed there. But for underneath a play structure, it looks as though they wouldn't be a smart choice. There's a set of standards, by a group called ASTM, that I'm going to have to comply with under the play structure -- so I suspect the school will have to bite the bullet and pay for an established solution on that.
jimgood
Well-known member
Gosh, I can't imagine how we survived the playgrounds of our youth. They were death traps by today's standards!
APEowner
Well-known member
Not everybody did.
oldironfarmer
Well-known member
In my limited sampling, nobody I knew failed to survive, although I broke an arm once.
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jbmatth
Well-known member
That almost made me spit out my coffee. I know I have a few scars to prove I had a fun childhood, and not all were inflicted by my 5 brothers.
In my limited sampling, nobody I knew failed to survived, although I broke an arm once.
Who's arm did you break Andy?
Jack,
It is great all of the help you have given to your children's school and I'm sure they all really appreciate it.
JB
OP
It's a good question. The way I see it is this: I know my own risk tolerance, both for me and my kids. But I wouldn't want some complete stranger making those decisions for my kids based on his standards -- the guy might have no idea what he's doing. To that end, I try to think of myself as the 'complete stranger' when it comes to other people's kids. It's not for me to make decisions on how tough the kids ought to be or how much risk they should be exposed to -- that's for their parents to decide. So if I'm putting padding under a climbing structure, I want to defer to an accepted standard -- something engineers and lawyers and whatever have gone through. I trust myself, but it's not fair to assume that all those other parents out there should have to trust me just because I say so.
So ASTM standards where kids could fall. It might very well be overkill. So be it.
So ASTM standards where kids could fall. It might very well be overkill. So be it.
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Outlawmws
Well-known member
If you look ASTM standards apply to helmets and other safety gear on the track. Also, those are generally minimum standards. so the Mfg/user is free to exceed them.
Hey Jack... Did you see your garage made MSN's "30 of the World’s Coolest Private Garages" http://www.msn.com/en-ca/autos/enth...rivate-garages/ss-AAptdBS?li=AAggNb9#image=18
OP
I didn't see that. Thanks!
OP
I don't do a lot of sewing. Yesterday, though, I had to join three 50-foot lengths of 12-foot-wide shade fabric together for a thing I'm making for the kids' school. Normally, my approach would be to unfold and spread out everything so I could move the 50-foot seam through the machine. But bunching up the material that way leaves permanent 'fold marks' in the polyethylene fabric.
So it occurred to me that I could keep the fabric in its original roll if I put the sewing machine on wheels and rolled it along the length of the seam, instead of the other way around.
My only moment of panic came when I'd finished, and I realized that there was a possibility that one seam would be 'up,' and the other 'down.' The way I left the sections rolled up meant I wasn't able to see the whole thing laid out. Still, I had a 50-50 chance of getting it right by accident. I checked, and everything was okay. The 'pretty side' is facing the right way for both seams.
So it occurred to me that I could keep the fabric in its original roll if I put the sewing machine on wheels and rolled it along the length of the seam, instead of the other way around.
My only moment of panic came when I'd finished, and I realized that there was a possibility that one seam would be 'up,' and the other 'down.' The way I left the sections rolled up meant I wasn't able to see the whole thing laid out. Still, I had a 50-50 chance of getting it right by accident. I checked, and everything was okay. The 'pretty side' is facing the right way for both seams.
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shortykorte
Well-known member
And you sew? Do you have a upholstery machine?
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
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rlitman
Well-known member
Wow is that creative. Think of making parachutes or hot air balloons next?
Zeke
Well-known member
Next the sewing machine will be on a camera track.
elguappo
Well-known member
Good man, learning to sew is something that everyone should do.
Great solution to a vexing problem.
Great solution to a vexing problem.
OP
Here's a quick look at the shade structure now that I've attached the fabric.
Zeke
Well-known member
Little bit of your other handywork shown there as well.
slik560
Well-known member
Excellent fabrication is just that; whether it be metal, wood or cloth. Outstanding.
How did you guys go about attaching the fabric to the framing? I'm a designer for a company that makes open air structures (wood, fabric, and steel) that go up like Ikea furniture. I always love seeing how others go about their attachment.
OP
Thanks, guys.
raley, my solution was this. The frame for the shade structure is made of is 1-1/4" square tubing. I initially use hand clamps to position and stretch the fabric, and then put a length of 1/2" square tubing over the fabric, lined up with the 1-1/4" tubing underneath it -- drilling holes for little stainless-steel screws to sandwich the fabric between the thick and thin steel tubing. Then (and I think this is the key), I run a bead of adhesive all along the outside edge of the fabric so that edge is 'globbed up' with enough adhesive that it would be just about impossible to pull the fabric through the sandwiched gap. This picture is from my deck at home, where this method has held up for five years now.
The smaller tubing is always on the non-visible side. And as far as I can tell, this method doesn't allow any pinch points where the energy is concentrated on a small piece of the shade fabric. Instead, it's pulling against the entire edge in a fairly uniform way.
raley, my solution was this. The frame for the shade structure is made of is 1-1/4" square tubing. I initially use hand clamps to position and stretch the fabric, and then put a length of 1/2" square tubing over the fabric, lined up with the 1-1/4" tubing underneath it -- drilling holes for little stainless-steel screws to sandwich the fabric between the thick and thin steel tubing. Then (and I think this is the key), I run a bead of adhesive all along the outside edge of the fabric so that edge is 'globbed up' with enough adhesive that it would be just about impossible to pull the fabric through the sandwiched gap. This picture is from my deck at home, where this method has held up for five years now.
The smaller tubing is always on the non-visible side. And as far as I can tell, this method doesn't allow any pinch points where the energy is concentrated on a small piece of the shade fabric. Instead, it's pulling against the entire edge in a fairly uniform way.
OP
It's still not finished, but here are a couple of different perspectives on the shade structure. It's right around 1,500 square feet.
From inside:
And from outside.
From inside:
And from outside.
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Coolabah
Well-known member
It's still not finished, but here are a couple of different perspectives on the shade structure. It's right around 1,500 square feet.
From inside:
And from outside.
WOW ! very very nice ...
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Grizz1963
Well-known member
Impressive work Jack.
Looks great.
Looks great.