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The 3/8 inch drive

Gmonkee

Well-known member
Joined
May 9, 2010
Messages
2,799
When I lightened my carry load a 3\8 drive set ranged from 1/4 to 7/8" replaced 3 drive sizes. SAE and metric abusing the equivilents of course. One ratchet and 3 wobble extensions round it out. Just the regular sockets.

And it meets my needs without making the tool bag much heavier. Getting out of diesel I was able to take out the big sizes and top out at 7/8" without sacrificing ability very much. Weight dropped from 40 lbs to about 5 in the carry bag.
 
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arjun90

Banned
Joined
May 4, 2015
Messages
83
Location
New York
You can always get a 3/8 to 1/2 adapter from Craftsman or Kobalt so that you can use 1/2 drive sockets on a 3/8 ratchet

Sent from my SM-N910T using Tapatalk
 

HanShotFirst

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Joined
Jun 29, 2015
Messages
846
Location
NW Nevada
I notice when I'm working on my motorcycles I'm reaching for 1/4" drive, and the rare 3/8" when things need a bit more muscle.

When I'm working on cars, it's 3/8" for most and 1/2" for the stubborn fasteners.
 

stihlntime

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Joined
Jun 2, 2015
Messages
603
Location
SW Missouri Ozarks
At the shop (small engine)90 percent of the time 3/8 with roto head ratchet. 5 percent 1/4 5percent 1/2.
At home on the farm more even 60 percent 3/8, 30 percent 1/2, and 10 percent 3/4. I seldom use a 1/4 unless I have too. I have xxxl hands and could never get comfortable with 1/4 drive. Due to the small size of most hardware I use a 12 volt DeWalt 3/8 impact and use a 12 volt DeWalt 1/4 impact driver loaded with a 6" long T27 bit.
 

BK13

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Joined
Mar 1, 2013
Messages
2,692
Location
PDX, OR
Mostly I use 3/8" drive; 1/4" when 3/8 won't fit, 1/2" when I'm worried about breaking the 3/8" on big/rusty stuff...
 

coralnut

Banned
Joined
Jun 16, 2015
Messages
444
Location
Chicagoland
My world is full of rusted fasteners on cars.

3/8 is my go-to for light automotive work (non-brake, non-suspension). A long flex handle and a fine click stubby are my two go-to ratchets.

1/2 on a long pattern ratchet is my go-to for brake & suspension, and if a long pattern ratchet won't do it, then it's time for the long breaker or impact. I don't see any value in a standard length 1/2" ratchet for automotive work, they're too short to develop enough torque on rusted fasteners. In general 1/2" ratchets are just too heavy for general automotive work and they tend to slow you down.

I don't find much use for 1/4" ratchets except for trim panels & small engines. If and when I do bother with 1/4" I'm using a T-handle ratchet or nut drivers, not a standard 1/4" ratchet, which I think is a fairly useless tool.

For those of you who prefer 1/4 over 3/8" drive I have a question -- are you able to find extra long 1/4 breaker bars that are longer than 6 inches? That's one tool that I've been looking for that is really hard to find. Having it would make 1/4 more useful to me.
 

General Geoff

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Joined
Jan 12, 2013
Messages
3,873
Location
Allentown, Pennsylvania
1/2 on a long pattern ratchet is my go-to for brake & suspension, and if a long pattern ratchet won't do it, then it's time for the long breaker or impact. I don't see any value in a standard length 1/2" ratchet for automotive work, they're too short to develop enough torque on rusted fasteners. In general 1/2" ratchets are just too heavy for general automotive work and they tend to slow you down.

The HF composite 1/2" ratchet is very handy for reassembly involving big fasteners. Not long enough to provide break-loose torque on old, rusted bolts, but for reassembly or new builds it's fantastic. Lighter than a standard 3/8" ratchet.
 
Joined
May 5, 2015
Messages
11
I usually grab the 3/8" set and a set of ratchet wrenches out of the service van first. If that won't work I'll go back for 1/4" or 1/2" sets.
 

kilohotel

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Joined
Jul 6, 2015
Messages
7
Location
Canada - Go Habs
I think 3/8 is the perfect drive size for 85-90% of the time, it's strong yet compact and most of the more "exotic" sockets and adapters are made for 3/8. 1/2 def. has its place for higher torquer applications.

The one I just don't get is the 1/4, might as well use a T-handler or a regular nut driver...
 
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cgv69

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Joined
Jan 11, 2012
Messages
1,033
Location
Boone Co., KY
Its funny how everybody has their own way and POV.

For decades I never owned anything but 1/4 and 3/8 drive tools (except for impacts) because I never saw the need for 1/2 drive. When I came across something really tight, my 12" 3/8 breaking bar did the job (sometime with the assistance of a cheater). No real forethought or reason behind it but for whatever reason, I always grabbed the smallest tool that could do the job.

But over the years I've gotten older and weaker and now I own and use 1/2 drive stuff all the time. I just don't feel like fighting with nuts and bolts and would rather just let a bigger (i.e. longer/more leverage) tool do the work. I also broke down and bought a cordless impact wrench and driver. These days its more about working smarter, not harder.
 

Vigo

Well-known member
Joined
Mar 21, 2012
Messages
89
For me the main pro's of 3/8 are:
1/4 sockets don't go up past 14, maybe 15mm in normal sets.
1/4 ratchets couldn't handle 15+mm bolts even if the sockets were plentiful.
3/8 sockets are MUCH more compact than equivalent 1/2" drive until you get up to very big sizes at which point they are basically equal.
3/8 ratchets are strong enough to do 95% of the work i do and cover the broadest range of sizes and features.

I feel that 1/2" drive has a definite place and i have 1/2" drive sockets up to 36mm and 1 1/2", but for the most part they fall under "If you need this tool, you probably wish things were going a little better right now". Good old IR Titanium and cheater pipes are the only thing keeping me from dreading the use of those bigger sockets.

I agree with a previous poster who said that they don't see the point of any 1/2" ratchet shorter than 18". 3/8" drive overlaps a LOT with the smaller 1/2" stuff, and given the size/weight advantage, i think most people who are experienced with both would always go for the 3/8" in any situation where their capabilities overlap.
 

ultgar

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Joined
Jan 11, 2005
Messages
1,119
Location
New Jersey
Facom CDX 3/8" splined drive sockets can be used reliably to 200 ft lbs although you might have to use a breaker bar to get there......

cdx5.jpg


cdx-2d.jpg


cdx-2a.jpg
 

Ratchet Guy

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Joined
Nov 25, 2014
Messages
175
Location
Richmond, BC
I use 3/8 socket mostly with a ratchet, I only use 1/4 socket with a drill as the driver with a 1/4 square to hex attachment, for 1/2 socket I only have deep impact set with an airtool, because I find that most 1/2 socket fastener requires more power to loosen one and if I use a ratchet its always tough to deal with a rusty bolt.
 

fatfillup

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Joined
Jan 17, 2009
Messages
10,311
Location
Finksburg, Md
I didn't read all the replies but in the early days 1/2 inch drive then 9/32's and 1/4 were popular here. Not sure when SO started making 3/8 drive but they had a marketing campaign to sell 3/8 drive. The 3/8 were sold with Ferret on them, for ferreting out tough to get to nuts.
 

zkling

Well-known member
Joined
Jan 23, 2007
Messages
16,939
Like many things it is going to depend on what the specific user commonly works on. Me, I seldom need the 1/2" or 3/4" ratchet. At that point I am usually using a breaker bar or impact gun. It seems in recent years companies have tried to push the envelope of the ratchet to almost exclude a breaker bar.

1/2 always helped me removing the oil drain plug. Perhaps, time for me to hit back the gym, haha.

:headscrat
 

PJNJ

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Joined
Sep 20, 2013
Messages
1,047
Location
Iowa
I think 3/8 is the perfect drive size for 85-90% of the time, it's strong yet compact and most of the more "exotic" sockets and adapters are made for 3/8. 1/2 def. has its place for higher torquer applications.

The one I just don't get is the 1/4, might as well use a T-handler or a regular nut driver...

The need for 1/4 becomes most apparent when you are upside down reaching up behind a dashboard packed with wires, etc. and the only thing that can get in there is a little 1/4 ratchet and socket. Forget a nutdriver or T handle in those situations. Or underhood and there is a partial obstruction blocking the use of a 3/8 extension but a smaller diameter 1/4 extension with a smaller 1/4 drive socket can just squeeze past.

As for 3/8 drive, it was really about all I used in the '70's. My vehicles during that time were mostly early to mid 60's vintage. A lot more room underhood and under the dash. Now with manufacturers using locktite on brake and suspension pieces, you need 1/2 drive regularly. And with electronics and other things packed in underhood and under the dash, 1/4 drive is also absolutely necessary (along with S wrenches, half moon wrenches, thin profile ratchets, ratcheting wrenches, etc.).

:beer:
 

hangfirew8

Well-known member
Joined
Jul 14, 2008
Messages
879
Location
Central Maryland
I've never thought of 1/4, 3/8 or 1/2 being in opposition or competition with each other. I can totally understand using one the most.

Back in my college days of domestic RWD cars, I rocked a new 1/2" Craftsman ratchet with shallow 12 pt SAE sockets, I fixed everything imaginable with that set (still have it). Since I inherited the rest of my tools, it was easier to find a 1/2 socket on one shiny rail when they were all consistently sized, unlike my mixed brand 3/8 set. I rarely needed the 1/4", maybe for pulling the dash or other occasional interior work.

Modern cars put an end to that. I need 3/8 everywhere for access in tight spaces, 1/2 for rusted fasteners and suspension work, and 1/4 for everything else.

I don't see the point of a long 1/4" breaker bar. It would either break fasteners or split sockets. The longest I have is an old Duro Indestro at about 6". There's a guy blowing them out on eBay right now for $8.99 delivered. Hmm, tempting.
 
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