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The Abrasive Blasting Resource Thread

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dkmc

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The finned inter-cooler piping between the flywheel and cylinders indicates they are 2 stage. Hard to judge the scale of the pumps, they could be 310's or up to 325's. The spec plate is on the crankcase cover, if the seller could send you a picture of that you'd have the model numbers.
IMHO I think that price is a bit rich.....
 
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OccupantRJ

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Yes, the rough side of a fiberglass part can be blasted. This had hardened metal grinding dust stuck to it a half inch thick. Started with a needle scaler then finished with alox in the cabinet. Stopped before finished for picture.
 

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cbacres

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Well I wasn’t looking for a blast cabinet as I had one in the shop already, waiting on me to set it up.
I was at a estate sale and spotted this one.
After I made my heals on stuff I came for, I started looking this over. Plugged in the blower and it worked, could see it moving dust around in cab.
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The manufacturer is a company called Surcon
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The main attraction was the blower and I guess is the cyclone on the back of it.
I remember reading about those right here, so I bought it.
It came with a foot valve which I was ho’ing to use in setting up the other cab. The suction on the gun is just a steel tube that drops into the hopper.

I’m thinking of buying one of those valves that Dreamer bought for his. I have a threaded connection on the bottom of the hopper.

It’s has a bag filter.
IMG_3505.jpg

The bag inflates nicely when blower on. I may need to make the seal tighter on the square frame as I can feel air moving along the seam.

So, I think I got a decent one to start with, the dust collection seems to work, but I’ll need to give a good dose of tlc.

I’ll need to replace the gloves, the PO rigged up a plywood flange of sorts.

Here’s a inside view.
IMG_3276.jpg

It has two doors, nice hinges and latches, although I’m missing one latch.

So RG, what do you make of the cyclone? Do you think it’s original to this cabinet or something shop built?

The blower pulls from the baffle inside the back wall.

The whole top is open, just had a piece of plywood on top. I was thinking of making the air intake on the front top so I’d get the air wash effect you have mentioned.

Thanks in advance.
Craig


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cbacres

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Never mind, it’s a shop concoction.
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I haven’t looked at much since I brought home.
The grommets for gloves are dry rotted.
IMG_3508.jpg
The opening in the cabinet is 11” dia.
I guess the plywood was used to close that up some.


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OccupantRJ

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My cabinets have glass windows on top with the fixture on the outside. One inside is going to get full of grit, I feel.

The lights on both my cabinets are on the outside also. One has 4 flourescent tubes over a narrow oval window, and the smaller cabinet has an incadescent
bulb in a metal box.
 
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cbacres

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Merry Christmas to all.

I received the first piece to my cab rebuild.

Ordered the below gloves from Amazon, I think I found on this thread but honestly couldn’t say as I’ve been researching to death.

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https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0143IZALI/?tag=atomicindus08-20

Nice gloves. These are 10”, the opening I gs in cab are 11”, but I need flanges to mount gloves. What’s left of the original mounting seal looks like a grommet with a steel ring that keeps the glove in a groove in the grommets.

I have some 8” aluminum pipe that I’m going to fab up into a mount flange.

I figured the bigger holes are already there so might as well take advantage of the extra arm room.

I have the media metering valve on order from IDS, just need to work on a window frame and the hole in top of cabinet.


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cbacres

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Couple of pictures. One of my extra air jets, two different styles. The other pic is of my larger cabinet makeup air intake. I have expanded metal with a sheet of filter media on it to prevent flywaste dust escape. Notice how the intake is positioned to wash the glass of dust with the airflow across it.

RJ, what's the size of that intake?

Thanks
 

930dreamer

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Can someone id this vintage compressor? United States air compressor?
 

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didit

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Here is a simple dust evacuation set-up I made for my blast cabinet from easily found parts. I just put water in it and connect to a small shop vac. This combined with good lighting really helped a lot.
 

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930dreamer

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I like this setup for $250, Quincy 350 with a Wisconsin gasser.
 

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AllThingsOld

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Initially my thought for purchasing this blast cabinet is that it would help me in the refinishing of carbon and stainless golf putters. I started off refinishing 1, than 2 and so on. The issue I had was the amount of handwork required in order to get the steel prepped for whatever finish I decided to go with. So being absolutely clueless about media blasting, I purchased an 8 gallon compressor and harbor freight bench top cabinet. Before I even get that cabinet out of the box, I realize it’s never going to operate properly and the 8 gallon compressor isn’t ever going to work. So I step up to the larger cabinet and buy a 30 gallon compressor.... Again, the compressor is way to small and the cabinet absolutely *****.. So once again, I go back to the drawing board. I pull the cabinet completely apart, do a ton of research online, find a 60 gallon compressor that ends up having a bad motor. I wire my garage for 240, with a ton of help with the guys in this forum, I get a new motor, wire it up, again with a ton of help from guys here. I know this isn’t anywhere close to being perfect, but for a guy with absolutely zero experience in wiring anything and zero experience setting up a cabinet, I think it came out great, of course it depends on how it runs, which I will find out in about 2 hours. This was done on a shoestring budget also, young family and not a lot of money. But I thought this may help someone similar to myself.
 

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AllThingsOld

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The biggest problem initially, with the cabinet, was it leaking EVERYWHERE. On the hopper, I sanded the heads off of all the bolts, inserted them backwards, laid a bead of Lexol caulk, where each edge meets and let it set up for a week, before painting it. I then assembled the actual cabinet. I installed a flood light in the corner with a switch and socket. Sealed again, with Lexol. I am using the port on the left side, as my intake port. I couldn’t afford to pay what Tacoma Company wanted for the baffle, so I made my own out of a kitchen pan that I got at a yard sale for a quarter. I cut out a 3x3 section at the bottom of pan, placed the pan, outlet side down, I believe at a 70 degree angle, if I remember correctly. Next I used the port on the back of the cabinet, for my dust collector connection. I used the pieces that came with the cabinet, sealed with Lexol and installed. I also installed the cabinet window backwards. The glass sits higher this way and I think it may help with keeping the glass clearer, longer, but I didn’t see anyone who has tried this, so complete guess on part. I will update and let you know. I used rivenuts and 6/32 brass knurled lamp screws to keep the glass and frame in place.
 

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OccupantRJ

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Allthingsold, looking good! You have the right type of abrasive distributor, a key issue. The air consumption of a suction blast cabinet is determined by the air jet used in the gun, not the blast nozzle diameter. I have sized my air jet to blast continuously, then when I stop, the compressor runs about 30 seconds more.
 

AllThingsOld

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Allthingsold, looking good! You have the right type of abrasive distributor, a key issue. The air consumption of a suction blast cabinet is determined by the air jet used in the gun, not the blast nozzle diameter. I have sized my air jet to blast continuously, then when I stop, the compressor runs about 30 seconds more.

I have a 2 stage 5hp compressor, probably going to run crushed glass and beads, most of the time.. I have a probably 5-6 different jet sizes to play with, so hopefully 1 or 2 will be a good match for the system. I am thinking I will need relatively small jet, obviously....
 

930dreamer

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This is on my radar, I'm thinking it's a Ingersoll Rand, any help on this diesel engine?
 

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metlmunchr

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Looks like a 53 series Detroit. Either a 3-53 or 4-53. The blower is too small to be a 71.

IR used a lot of Detroit 2 strokes, as did several other manufacturers, in larger compressors during that time frame.
 

bugnut

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All things old, please insure you have vacuum and a free air port (open hole to atmosphere) on your blaster. IIRC on the HF blast cabinet the rear hole is for free air and the l/h side hole near the light switch mount is for vacuum. You want the cabinet to be negative pressure not positive. This will help to keep the media in the cabinet.

Also Chris Notap on youtube has a setup using buckets to separate particulates prior to the shop vac filter.
 

AllThingsOld

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All things old, please insure you have vacuum and a free air port (open hole to atmosphere) on your blaster. IIRC on the HF blast cabinet the rear hole is for free air and the l/h side hole near the light switch mount is for vacuum. You want the cabinet to be negative pressure not positive. This will help to keep the media in the cabinet.

Also Chris Notap on youtube has a setup using buckets to separate particulates prior to the shop vac filter.

I made a dust collector set up also.. I have an adjustable intake and adjustable switch that I am using for the vacuum itself... The vacuum port in the rear keeps the dust and media low. I closed off the top interior portion of the rear duct, so it is pulling from the bottom of the cabinet.
 

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metlmunchr

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Not sure how fuel efficient those old DD engines are either, but they sound cool.....for awhile. Hearing protection a must?

The 71's aren't too bad as long as the mufflers are good, but the 53's make a screaming sound that'll drive you nuts.

Based on trucks of that era that used either DD's or Cummins, the fuel economy was about the same in both. Whether that would have changed in favor of either in a constant speed application like a compressor, I have no idea.

I assume a big reason for use of DD's in portable compressors was the fact that a DD is significantly lighter than any 4 stroke of similar horsepower.

Once Cummins began to change cam profiles to create engines with higher torque rise and a useful operating range from about 1200 to 2100 rpm, the days of Detroits and their 1800 to 2100 rpm operating range were numbered for highway use.
 
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