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The Abrasive Blasting Resource Thread

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The Tool Tyrant

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I have still waiting, it's listed for $800 but has a bad/leaking cylinder.
"bad/ leaking cylinder" You need to get much more specific info as that's pretty damn vague. Gasket? Bad valve? Cracked cylinder? Worn out rings?
Major overhaul kit is around $1500. Including new valves, over 2K That pump alone weighs 815 lbs. That's what I call a BMF!

QR series are pretty damn bullet proof, so I'd be inclined to thinks it's just valves which are normal service items...but that's just my guess.
 
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dkmc

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I have a soda blast cabinet that I bought years ago and seriously I've never used it. I thought I would use it all the time but no... Now it takes up a huge amount of space in my garage! It has the cabinet, vacuum system, pressure pot and a long hose for blasting things outside. What's something like this worth?20221203_112614.jpg20221203_112949.jpg20221203_113225.jpg20221203_113238.jpg20221203_112454.jpg20221203_113544.jpg
If you search FB Marketplace and you find similar that might give a clue. Blast cabinets and pressure pots are all over on there, and prices usually range from $100 to $5000+. Some disappear fast, and some linger for years. Really it's worth whatever someone will pay for it, and it's impossible to predict that. It looks like a nice rig. As a WAG I'd say there might be an interested buyer out there somewhere that might pay $1000-1500 for it. Look at the cabinet I got in post 973....I watched it go (on FBM) from $2500 to 1500 and at that point they accepted my offer of $500. New, it cost $14k.
 

930dreamer

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I need help rebuilding this Kellogg American 352 pump. I've never rebuilt a pump so that's what I know. I thought I had a spec sheet, still looking- found it!
 

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Desert rider

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Nevada
Good thread RJ. :thumbup:

I don't have a thread so here goes ...

My home made cabinet is about 35 years old and I have built, rebuilt, renovated, adapted, etc. it MANY times during that period. I initially set it up for syphon blasting and eventually adapted it for pressure pot blasting as well. It's nice to have a choice.

The window simply slides in and out and is sealed with duct tape. It's automotive glass that I have cut at an auto glass store.

I tried several types of lighting and eventually settled on halogen lights up in each top corner. Nice and bright plus durable and inexpensive. I tried incandescent and fluorescent with guards but they weren't as bright and took up too much space.

My pressure blaster and syphon hoppers are generally stored underneath as shown in the middle photo and are easy to move for blasting outdoors.

My vacuum system is a simple 4 gallon Shop Vac with a home made cyclone (sort of) canister between the cabinet and the blaster. The vacuumed media swirls around in the canister and the heaviest parts drop to the bottom and fall into about 2 or 3 inches of water. Very little media makes its way into the Shop Vac.

I have a separate air line/gun in the cabinet for blowing parts off and generally clearing the air.

The top of the cabinet makes for a good shelf for storing buckets of media (sand, glass beads, walnut shells, etc.).

After about 30 years my gloves finally wore out. I got another pair and rather than out right replace the original ones I just cut them off a little bit above the wrists. I now just wear the new ones (which go well up on my biceps) and poke my hands into the cabinet. I was surprise at how well this works! I can easily put small parts into the cabinet and pull them out without opening the door ... and dust is now problem.

One thing I would do differently is make a deeper hopper and a better stand with casters. I've made do for all these years as is. Maybe I'll make those improvements in the next 10 or 15 years. :lol:

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Do you find the position of the arm holes to be bothersome?, being on the slant the way they are? Nice job BTW
 
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OccupantRJ

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OccupantRJ

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Blast cabinet foot control
 

driftpin

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I haven't read the entire thread, so this may have been mentioned before by someone.

I got a HFT benchtop media cabinet for free when a Miami independent Porsche garage was tossing it out. I drove by as a worker was dragging it to the curb, and he helped me put it in my pick-up truck. It needed new gloves, and I had cut a new piece of glass for it. I bought another gun and installed a high-capacity air filter on the upper-back of the cabinet. I made a frame on wheels for it, so not instead of a benchtop unit, it's a roller.

After using it awhile, the 1/4" glass got frosted from the media. I had a new piece of glass cut but waited to install it. I was trying to decide how I could protect the glass somehow.

This is what I came up-with. I made a 1" X 2" wood frame for the cabinet, sized to the glass opening. I made it so it sat inside the cabinet box, and it was outside the area of the glass. The plastic glass frame, held in place by screws longer than they needed to be (I dunno if the screw length is OEM or the prior owner used longer screws, maybe 1"+) now has its mounting screws also holding in-place my 1" X 2" wood frame.

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On the wood frame, I used an Arrow T50 spring stapler to staple a stainless steel fine-mesh screen. My idea is that the fine mesh screen will stop the frosting of the glass. Yes, I have a vacuum hooked to the box.

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So-far, the box is working, I have blasted some floor-standing saw parts (Delta Unisaw Junior, Powermatic Model 64 Artisan saw), and have had decent results. Le's hope that the stainless steel fine screen does what I hoped it would do.

Screen in-place:

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The wood frame & screen inside the cabinet:

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A miter head for a saw, before/after media blasting.

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Painted with Martin Senour Alumi Blast paint:

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GeoBruin

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I applaud your industriousness, but this problem has really been solved. Check out the Tacoma quick change glass kit. It allows you to quickly remove the factory frame and replace the frosted glass sheet. As for the glass itself, you do not need to have glass cut. You can do it yourself. All you need is a glass cutter which is a $5 thing. And because it's a sacrificial piece, you can buy the cheapest glass home depot sells in a 24" x 36" piece (which makes 3 sheets for your purposes). It winds up just costing a few dollars per change.

I believe your glass is still going to get cloudy over time, and now not only will you have frosted glass blocking your view, but also a screen.
 

CGT80

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IE, SoCal, USA
I applaud your industriousness, but this problem has really been solved. Check out the Tacoma quick change glass kit. It allows you to quickly remove the factory frame and replace the frosted glass sheet. As for the glass itself, you do not need to have glass cut. You can do it yourself. All you need is a glass cutter which is a $5 thing. And because it's a sacrificial piece, you can buy the cheapest glass home depot sells in a 24" x 36" piece (which makes 3 sheets for your purposes). It winds up just costing a few dollars per change.

I believe your glass is still going to get cloudy over time, and now not only will you have frosted glass blocking your view, but also a screen.
That sheet of glass runs $23 at the home depot where I am at and it isn't tempered, although I have never broken the glass in my cabinet.

After seeing the Tacoma quick change, I drilled out the holes for my stock glass ring to just over 1/4" and installed allen screws with nuts inside, then tack welded the nuts in place. Since I got the cabinet, I have been using the inside lens protectors made out of plastic. They cost about $4 each and now I can quickly take the glass out and change the plastic. I have not tried using plain glass instead of the protective sheets to see if there is much difference.

For bottom of the cabinet drain, I also did the plumbing version of the TP pickup. Originally, I used a 1/2" hose and 1/2" barbed fitting. Recently, I removed the leaky HF media door and welded a rectangle of sheet steel in place with a tube to my pickup. The barbed fitting was changed out to 5/8" and I heated the end of the hose to get it on, just as I did for the connection at the skat gun. It flows so much better. The tip/nozzle I am using is the large 25 cfm ceramic. Instead of a ball valve to control the air into the pickup, I had a long nut and bolt, but with the increased flow I took the bolt out. It doesn't seem to need adjusted with normal pressure at 60-85 psi while the air is flowing, but that is with 100 grit AO.

The Tacoma ideas are great but I did them myself with parts I sourced on my own. For the door, I did buy automotive weather stripping and moved the hinges and latch out a little for the extra thickness. Self adhesive hardware store weather stripping always failed. This stuff has a U channel to slip over the sheet metal edge so it is held by friction.
 

dkmc

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NYS--Upstate in the corn fields
Lots of interesting setups here, although might i recommend a newer type of abrasive blasting technology, called dual induction, it offers the simplicity of a suction blast cabinet, but with pressure blast cabinet performance, there is a company in the UK that manufactures these systems called Apollo, you can find out more on their website:

www.apolloblasting.com
Don't think I'll be importing any small $14,000 blast cabinets in the near future.....yikes.
 
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OccupantRJ

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Pickup tube discussion.
 

shoot summ

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Got my first batch of Black Beauty today, medium, that stuff flat tears it up!
I used the cabinet a lot this week, the BB started out great, really getting things done, blasting old Rockwell sander parts to prepare for powder coat, and a mobile base I fabricated for my WT Jointer. I played with my air pressure and discovered I could back the pressure off a bit with the BB so I did. The mobile base was composed of some purchase parts that were powder coated, it was working pretty well on that initially. Started going slower and I noticed what appeared to be sand mixed with the media on the ledges in the cabinet. Ultimately determined that the BB had broken down and the sand was the by product. I guess I didn't really expect it to break down that fast, but I still think it is a great product. Has anyone sifted the sandy BB to recycle some of what is left? What screen did you use if you did?
 
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OccupantRJ

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isb cornbinder

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I got my blast cabinet for Father's Day, 10 years ago. It is a MOD-U-BLAST, made in Canada. This cabinet is distributed here by MANUS ABRASIVE SYSTEMS INC
The unit I have is the 24-48. This unit has a vacuum system and replaceable filter. The filters are an automotive type. The filter is available at most parts stores for about 1/4 the price.
It cost about $2500cad . This blast cabinet uses enough air to require an Ingersoll T30 two stage,
 

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OccupantRJ

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Blast cabinet CFM questions.
 
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OccupantRJ

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A thread I did a few years back on my shop air line system to feed the blast cabinets.
 
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OccupantRJ

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Pressure pot blaster suggestions.
 
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OccupantRJ

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A question about a Skat Blast cabinet.
 
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OccupantRJ

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OccupantRJ

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Blast cabinet and compressor questions.
 
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