Red Leader
Well-known member
Congrats on your shop making the front page. Couldn't have happened to a more deserving garage! Keep it up! We are all watching!
The Aerodrome Studio - Machine_Punk
- Thread starter machine_punk
- Start date
OP
machine_punk
Well-known member
Hey M_P, congrats on the front page appearance as well.I don't often go there, so I missed it when it popped up.
Thanks guys! I was a little surprised too...I just accidentally ran across it myself.
Kev
Mohawk Dave
Well-known member
Hi Kev,
Great work as always! Reading your sig line I saw "aeroplane", which I actually call them because I like the ring to it. But I was interested in "airplane vs aeroplane" and when one became the other (I assumed at first).
Did some googling and found this and thought I'd share with ya. I'm sure you're aware of this, but the "ngraph" on books was real interesting.
http://grammarist.com/usage/aeroplane-airplane/
Cheers!
Great work as always! Reading your sig line I saw "aeroplane", which I actually call them because I like the ring to it. But I was interested in "airplane vs aeroplane" and when one became the other (I assumed at first).
Did some googling and found this and thought I'd share with ya. I'm sure you're aware of this, but the "ngraph" on books was real interesting.
http://grammarist.com/usage/aeroplane-airplane/
Cheers!
Kevin54
MEMBER EMERITUS
OP
machine_punk
Well-known member
Are you talking about a tool rack frame, or a picture frame? Well, whatever sort of frame you are talking about, feel free to drop me a Private Message.
EDIT: PM Sent...feel free to contact me at the email address I sent you.
Kev
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OP
machine_punk
Well-known member
It is definitely time for an update to The Aerodrome Studio.
I’ve been busy doing this for weeks…
Near the beginning of June, I was able to go to my local Metal Meet, in Santa Cruz. Here is the outside of John’s shop, where the Metal Meet was held…
Here are a bunch of the guys, learning how to use the Pullmax machine for metalshaping…
Here is the temporary Aerodrome Studio. I have a portable version of the Reconfigurable Tool Rack and I took along most of my Custom Tool Boards, along with a lot of other little samples of rivet stuff…
We had a few metalworking ‘celebrities’ there. Lazze was there for a bit, but I didn’t have my camera out at the time. Great guy, who’s willing to answer any of our questions.
To learn more about Lazze, go here...
http://www.lazzemetalshaping.com/index.cfm/page/ptype=page/page_cd=info/info.htm
Michael Leeds was there during the day and gave us a wonderful tour of the Leeds Workshop, in Santa Cruz, the first evening. Here is a pic of me, sitting in his car, “Big Bertha.” It started life as a fire truck in Southern California. Over 14 years, he turned it into this boat-tail sports car. Michael was kind enough to take all of us on a drive in Big Bertha, through downtown Santa Cruz. Everyone stopped and stared as the car passed…
Learn more about Big Bertha here… http://blastoland.com/blastoland/BIG_BERTHA.html
Ben, from Ben’s Metalshaping Shop, in Holland, showed up, He was spending some time visiting another metalshaper in the area and stopped by to share his knowledge at the Metal Meet...
Learn more about Ben’s work here…http://www.bensmetalshapingshop.nl/
Lastly, but definitely not leastly, Ron Covell made it to the Metal Meet, gave a couple of seminars, and helped folks out with their projects…
Here is an amazing, bomber-style seat, made by Ron Covell…
Learn more about Ron Covell here…
http://www.covell.biz/
Whew…I’ve been busy lately, just not out in the studio. Looking forward to getting back out there, finishing up the light bracket, and moving on to my next project. Of course, I have to paint the trim, get the gutters up, and caulk the house first. Thankfully, the house looks fabulous, it is just so much work.
Kev
I’ve been busy doing this for weeks…
Near the beginning of June, I was able to go to my local Metal Meet, in Santa Cruz. Here is the outside of John’s shop, where the Metal Meet was held…
Here are a bunch of the guys, learning how to use the Pullmax machine for metalshaping…
Here is the temporary Aerodrome Studio. I have a portable version of the Reconfigurable Tool Rack and I took along most of my Custom Tool Boards, along with a lot of other little samples of rivet stuff…
We had a few metalworking ‘celebrities’ there. Lazze was there for a bit, but I didn’t have my camera out at the time. Great guy, who’s willing to answer any of our questions.
To learn more about Lazze, go here...
http://www.lazzemetalshaping.com/index.cfm/page/ptype=page/page_cd=info/info.htm
Michael Leeds was there during the day and gave us a wonderful tour of the Leeds Workshop, in Santa Cruz, the first evening. Here is a pic of me, sitting in his car, “Big Bertha.” It started life as a fire truck in Southern California. Over 14 years, he turned it into this boat-tail sports car. Michael was kind enough to take all of us on a drive in Big Bertha, through downtown Santa Cruz. Everyone stopped and stared as the car passed…
Learn more about Big Bertha here… http://blastoland.com/blastoland/BIG_BERTHA.html
Ben, from Ben’s Metalshaping Shop, in Holland, showed up, He was spending some time visiting another metalshaper in the area and stopped by to share his knowledge at the Metal Meet...
Learn more about Ben’s work here…http://www.bensmetalshapingshop.nl/
Lastly, but definitely not leastly, Ron Covell made it to the Metal Meet, gave a couple of seminars, and helped folks out with their projects…
Here is an amazing, bomber-style seat, made by Ron Covell…
Learn more about Ron Covell here…
http://www.covell.biz/
Whew…I’ve been busy lately, just not out in the studio. Looking forward to getting back out there, finishing up the light bracket, and moving on to my next project. Of course, I have to paint the trim, get the gutters up, and caulk the house first. Thankfully, the house looks fabulous, it is just so much work.
Kev
Bogdan M.
Well-known member
Have you tried any blacksmithing? I know that this is quite a different form of metalworking, but it's maybe the purest.
OP
machine_punk
Well-known member
It is on my list of things to do...make myself a little propane forge (or get together a little coal forge) and try making parts by hand forging. I definitely don't have the room in my current shop, but the concept of blacksmithing is fascinating to me.
Glad to see your shop is still working out for you. I think you really have something different to offer in your area (someone who cares about quality).
Kev.
OP
machine_punk
Well-known member
Why thank you! I feel the same way about rivets. I strive to combine function and design in everything I make and I learn more about that with every project I complete.
Welcome to GJ!
Kev
Guster
Well-known member
Phwoar... that metal meet looked awesome. We don't really have anything like that over here even though swages, english wheels and plannishing hammers seem to be back in popularity along with anvils and blacksmith tools. I've learned so much from Ron Covell over the years(my wife actually recognises his voice when I watch one of his videos) Just got a new AC/DC TIG unit and really looking forward to doing some alloy work.
OP
machine_punk
Well-known member
Thanks! It was a lot of fun to attend...and really cool to meet some of the metalworking 'greats.'
The whole point of the metal meet is for folks who know a little to share what they know. If you have the space and a few tools, I suggest you start a metal meet near you (or at least sign up for that forum and find one near you). I don't have the shop space yet, but once I do, I plan to host my own metal meets in the future.
I looked at your profile...doesn't seem like you have started any threads yet...looking forward to seeing your shop, tools, and projects. Definitely interested in seeing what you get up to with that new welder. I definitely want a TIG machine in the future...it is actually the only welding method I've been trained on so far. I do have an oxy-acetylene setup now, but won't be able to make to Kent White's (Tin Man Tech) course this year, like I hoped.
Kev
The whole point of the metal meet is for folks who know a little to share what they know. If you have the space and a few tools, I suggest you start a metal meet near you (or at least sign up for that forum and find one near you). I don't have the shop space yet, but once I do, I plan to host my own metal meets in the future.
I looked at your profile...doesn't seem like you have started any threads yet...looking forward to seeing your shop, tools, and projects. Definitely interested in seeing what you get up to with that new welder. I definitely want a TIG machine in the future...it is actually the only welding method I've been trained on so far. I do have an oxy-acetylene setup now, but won't be able to make to Kent White's (Tin Man Tech) course this year, like I hoped.
Kev
Guster
Well-known member
Those metal meets definitely pay off compared to time spent watching youtube clips as you get time to try it for yourself the experience sinks in right away. For us doing this more on a part time basis getting to see it first hand compared to years of trial and error is so invaluable. Got a lot of new ideas from catching up on the latest shorts on Ron’s site.
I cut my teeth with an old AC/DC transformer unit before acquiring a 160A DC inverter. Despite the loss of the inferior AC capability on the transformer unit I would say the inverter was a step up. Only got the new unit 2 weeks ago and it is still sitting in its box waiting for time to test it and make a new cabinet. Depending on what you will be doing the oxy-ace is extremely versatile. I opted for an inverter plasma unit to fill the hole between TIG, arc, propane brazing and needing something to cut with because I already had a good compressor. Local legislation also introduced a lot of new controls preventing ownership of acetylene bottles in favour of the suppliers controlling the rental of cylinders. Lucky for me I can still get away with owning an large argon cylinder.
Been holding off on my intro as I’ve been doing a lot of home renovation this year and my workshop is mainly used for storage while that continues. Since it is really just a two bay garage I started investing a lot in storage and organisation. I've gone a ways down that rabbit hole and starting to see the light at the other end with the home reno. I may actually have the room to stand and take a photo or two for the intro soon.
I’m definitely under pressure as I’d like to build a gas forge to make some tooling for my lathe in order to make dies for my tube bend former so I can make some bends for another project which started this whole adventure. Since a lot of the current clutter is materials for above named projects it is actually a self sourcing solution.
But that’s enough of my story before I start hijacking more of your thread.
I cut my teeth with an old AC/DC transformer unit before acquiring a 160A DC inverter. Despite the loss of the inferior AC capability on the transformer unit I would say the inverter was a step up. Only got the new unit 2 weeks ago and it is still sitting in its box waiting for time to test it and make a new cabinet. Depending on what you will be doing the oxy-ace is extremely versatile. I opted for an inverter plasma unit to fill the hole between TIG, arc, propane brazing and needing something to cut with because I already had a good compressor. Local legislation also introduced a lot of new controls preventing ownership of acetylene bottles in favour of the suppliers controlling the rental of cylinders. Lucky for me I can still get away with owning an large argon cylinder.
Been holding off on my intro as I’ve been doing a lot of home renovation this year and my workshop is mainly used for storage while that continues. Since it is really just a two bay garage I started investing a lot in storage and organisation. I've gone a ways down that rabbit hole and starting to see the light at the other end with the home reno. I may actually have the room to stand and take a photo or two for the intro soon.
I’m definitely under pressure as I’d like to build a gas forge to make some tooling for my lathe in order to make dies for my tube bend former so I can make some bends for another project which started this whole adventure. Since a lot of the current clutter is materials for above named projects it is actually a self sourcing solution.
But that’s enough of my story before I start hijacking more of your thread.Kev, great thread, I enjoyed reading all 27 pages today. I learned a lot about riveting from you and thought I would share a tip with you. When cutting or drilling aluminum plate keep a small puddle of WD-40 at the bit or blade. It will speed up the process and make your bits last much long. Can't wait to see your finished lights.
OP
machine_punk
Well-known member
Looking forward to your intro, and pics of your shop and projects soon! I work in aluminum a lot, so I think I'll need AC in whichever TIG welder I end up buying.
Kev
Kev
Those metal meets definitely pay off compared to time spent watching youtube clips as you get time to try it for yourself the experience sinks in right away. For us doing this more on a part time basis getting to see it first hand compared to years of trial and error is so invaluable. Got a lot of new ideas from catching up on the latest shorts on Ron’s site.
I cut my teeth with an old AC/DC transformer unit before acquiring a 160A DC inverter. Despite the loss of the inferior AC capability on the transformer unit I would say the inverter was a step up. Only got the new unit 2 weeks ago and it is still sitting in its box waiting for time to test it and make a new cabinet. Depending on what you will be doing the oxy-ace is extremely versatile. I opted for an inverter plasma unit to fill the hole between TIG, arc, propane brazing and needing something to cut with because I already had a good compressor. Local legislation also introduced a lot of new controls preventing ownership of acetylene bottles in favour of the suppliers controlling the rental of cylinders. Lucky for me I can still get away with owning an large argon cylinder.
Been holding off on my intro as I’ve been doing a lot of home renovation this year and my workshop is mainly used for storage while that continues. Since it is really just a two bay garage I started investing a lot in storage and organisation. I've gone a ways down that rabbit hole and starting to see the light at the other end with the home reno. I may actually have the room to stand and take a photo or two for the intro soon.
I’m definitely under pressure as I’d like to build a gas forge to make some tooling for my lathe in order to make dies for my tube bend former so I can make some bends for another project which started this whole adventure. Since a lot of the current clutter is materials for above named projects it is actually a self sourcing solution.
OP
machine_punk
Well-known member
Thanks! Wow, I guess it is up to 27 pages now. Hoping to add more in the near future, as I get this job situation settled again.
I appreciate the tip on drilling...I have begun using lubricant while drilling lately. I've been using motor oil, instead of WD-40. I've also been trying out this stuff made specifically for cutting aluminum, called Boelube (because it was made by Boeing...for fabricating aluminum parts for airplanes). I'm also planning to get the Drill Doctor 750, so I can sharpen my drill bits...you wouldn't believe what I spend in drill bits...especially since I buy regular 'jobber' length bits for the regular air drill and the special threaded drill bits (in 4 lengths) for the specialty 90-degree air drill.
I've been making progress on the light bracket in the past couple of weeks...shouldn't be too long now.
Kev
I appreciate the tip on drilling...I have begun using lubricant while drilling lately. I've been using motor oil, instead of WD-40. I've also been trying out this stuff made specifically for cutting aluminum, called Boelube (because it was made by Boeing...for fabricating aluminum parts for airplanes). I'm also planning to get the Drill Doctor 750, so I can sharpen my drill bits...you wouldn't believe what I spend in drill bits...especially since I buy regular 'jobber' length bits for the regular air drill and the special threaded drill bits (in 4 lengths) for the specialty 90-degree air drill.
I've been making progress on the light bracket in the past couple of weeks...shouldn't be too long now.
Kev
Guster
Well-known member
Already thinking about it... the name is the hardest part. I never really name things other than general descriptors or unless bad emotional experiences become involved.
Should be able to start practising with oxy-ace too. Gas welding skills are proportionate and in great part transferrable to TIG welding. TIG allows for more factors to be controlled and give you a tidier and tighter weld pattern. Don't discount MIG welders either as it can be economic and useful enough when doing lots of long basic flat welding joints like in basic sheetmetal fabrication. It is just trickier to keep as tidy and often ground flat and polished out in alu. panel work but you can’t beat it for basic fabrication. MIG gas use is a little higher but being able to weld faster tends to balance things out.
I suggest investigating options for argon supply and do your homework regarding whether to rent or own as it is often the one(or only) thing that prevents people from getting into TIG welding. My experience was that local rental plans cater for large volume industrial use. My first argon bottle even got taken by the gas supply company I sent it to have filled. Claimed it as being one of their own even though the last test date was prior to them setting up in the country. I was out of $100 and wasn’t going to win that battle - took it as a learning experience. I did find some new imported cylinders and an acceptable supply chain that made it worth my while. Finding a welder was almost trivial after that.
Also use WD40 when machining aluminium as it tends to be ‘gummy’ and build up the trailing edge of the cutter which interferes with the chip clearing ability of the cutting tool. Once chipload increases your whole cutter can get gummed up to the point where it stops cutting or rubs your work and ruins the finish. When it stops cutting it also increases tool load often breaking the cutter. You will really appreciate it when using a holesaw in aluminium. Just have to watch that it does not wash away any oil you may use to protect and lube your equipment – more critical on lathe and mill ways I guess.
I am looking forward to being able to start working with aluminium too. Been slowly collecting some panel beating equipment(hammers, dollies, shot bag, air hammer+foot control valve) and keen to obtain a swage/jenny and maybe even an e-wheel. Though looking at Ron C’s last vid on plannishing hammers I might opt for the versatility of one over the space required for an e-wheel. Big lump of uhmwpe waiting to be turned into a teardrop mallet(or perhaps cut down and machined into plannishing hammer heads)
gabemaita
Member
exactly two years worth of posts. 10 23 11 to 10 23 13 and still no money shot on the light bracket. lets see that thing in action. read it all today. love your work. always loved the look of aluminum and brass rivets. congrats on a beautiful shop and a beautiful craft
OP
machine_punk
Well-known member
Already thinking about it... the name is the hardest part. I never really name things other than general descriptors or unless bad emotional experiences become involved.
Should be able to start practising with oxy-ace too. Gas welding skills are proportionate and in great part transferrable to TIG welding. TIG allows for more factors to be controlled and give you a tidier and tighter weld pattern. Don't discount MIG welders either as it can be economic and useful enough when doing lots of long basic flat welding joints like in basic sheetmetal fabrication. It is just trickier to keep as tidy and often ground flat and polished out in alu. panel work but you can’t beat it for basic fabrication. MIG gas use is a little higher but being able to weld faster tends to balance things out.
I suggest investigating options for argon supply and do your homework regarding whether to rent or own as it is often the one(or only) thing that prevents people from getting into TIG welding. My experience was that local rental plans cater for large volume industrial use. My first argon bottle even got taken by the gas supply company I sent it to have filled. Claimed it as being one of their own even though the last test date was prior to them setting up in the country. I was out of $100 and wasn’t going to win that battle - took it as a learning experience. I did find some new imported cylinders and an acceptable supply chain that made it worth my while. Finding a welder was almost trivial after that.
Also use WD40 when machining aluminium as it tends to be ‘gummy’ and build up the trailing edge of the cutter which interferes with the chip clearing ability of the cutting tool. Once chipload increases your whole cutter can get gummed up to the point where it stops cutting or rubs your work and ruins the finish. When it stops cutting it also increases tool load often breaking the cutter. You will really appreciate it when using a holesaw in aluminium. Just have to watch that it does not wash away any oil you may use to protect and lube your equipment – more critical on lathe and mill ways I guess.
I am looking forward to being able to start working with aluminium too. Been slowly collecting some panel beating equipment(hammers, dollies, shot bag, air hammer+foot control valve) and keen to obtain a swage/jenny and maybe even an e-wheel. Though looking at Ron C’s last vid on plannishing hammers I might opt for the versatility of one over the space required for an e-wheel. Big lump of uhmwpe waiting to be turned into a teardrop mallet(or perhaps cut down and machined into plannishing hammer heads)
Are you talking about having a hard time coming up with a name for your garage here on GJ? Just keep thinking about the things which are important to you and what you like to do...and any 'inside' jokes or an unusual perspective you have on your projects, and the perfect name will come to you.
Sounds like you are on the way to getting yourself set up for shaping panels. Looking forward to seeing your projects.
Kev
OP
machine_punk
Well-known member
WOW! Has it been two years already?!?! I am kind of thinking of doing an annual 'summary' for each year here...sorta like Shopnut in the Asylum.
Thanks for the kind words. The first of the light brackets is 'this close' to being done. It has been a VERY rough 14 months as far as work goes. Of course, being between jobs now, you'd think I'd have a little more time to get out in the studio and finish this up.
Kev
OP
machine_punk
Well-known member
I've been working on a new skill lately...which has slowed down my actual 'building objects' out in the studio. I've talked to a couple of Industrial Designers, here on GJ, and come to realize that designing things is my real talent. Of course, I always plan to keep my hands in the building of things...especially in the designing and prototyping phases, but the design process is really what uses my skills to the best. So, some day, when The Aerodrome Studio actually starts producing objects, I will likely hire metalcrafters to actually build the projects, which I will design. I've already got way more designs going in my head than I could build in 5 years.
Anyway, the one thing I am not particularly skilled at in the design realm is sketching by hand. I've never particularly considered myself an artist, so I found a good book on sketching, and began to practice. Just the other day, I decided that I needed to practice more...so I committed to practicing my sketching a little each day.
One of the most difficult things to wrap my brain around was perspective. Perspective is 'drawing it like we see it,' using the concept of vanishing points to warp the sketch from the flat isometric views (front, top, side, etc.) to what we actually 'see.' The problem for me is that I was originally trained in drafting on paper, then learned 2D CAD, and recently learned a 3D design program (GeoMagic/Alibre). I'm used to pulling out the drawing board, T-square, and triangles, when I need to create a perspective. That's cool, but not really fast enough for what designers use sketching for. It needs to be much more 'seat of the pants,' when you are trying to get an idea down on paper quickly.
Everything in me wanted to stop at isometric perspective (drawing on a grid of isometric triangles...it gives a 'cheater' perspective to a drawing--just enough to give the person an idea of the 3D shape, but it is not 'true' perspective and still looks very amateur). It was really hard for me to put down the drafting tools and rule and just DRAW. But, once I did, things started popping in place and concepts started to make sense and it became a lot more natural to draw in perspective.
I'm certainly not an expert now, but after a few days, I've made some progress. This is an extended rendering practice (I had just been drawing a single cube, or other simple shapes, before this sketch). I did draw in the vanishing lines by ruler, but then I just cut loose and drew some long, intertwined rectangles. After I got the page filled, I went back an practiced windows, circles, and other things in perspective. Not perfect, by any standard, but a LONG way from where I was just a couple of weeks ago. The concept of sketching quickly in perspective is getting there...
Kev
Anyway, the one thing I am not particularly skilled at in the design realm is sketching by hand. I've never particularly considered myself an artist, so I found a good book on sketching, and began to practice. Just the other day, I decided that I needed to practice more...so I committed to practicing my sketching a little each day.
One of the most difficult things to wrap my brain around was perspective. Perspective is 'drawing it like we see it,' using the concept of vanishing points to warp the sketch from the flat isometric views (front, top, side, etc.) to what we actually 'see.' The problem for me is that I was originally trained in drafting on paper, then learned 2D CAD, and recently learned a 3D design program (GeoMagic/Alibre). I'm used to pulling out the drawing board, T-square, and triangles, when I need to create a perspective. That's cool, but not really fast enough for what designers use sketching for. It needs to be much more 'seat of the pants,' when you are trying to get an idea down on paper quickly.
Everything in me wanted to stop at isometric perspective (drawing on a grid of isometric triangles...it gives a 'cheater' perspective to a drawing--just enough to give the person an idea of the 3D shape, but it is not 'true' perspective and still looks very amateur). It was really hard for me to put down the drafting tools and rule and just DRAW. But, once I did, things started popping in place and concepts started to make sense and it became a lot more natural to draw in perspective.
I'm certainly not an expert now, but after a few days, I've made some progress. This is an extended rendering practice (I had just been drawing a single cube, or other simple shapes, before this sketch). I did draw in the vanishing lines by ruler, but then I just cut loose and drew some long, intertwined rectangles. After I got the page filled, I went back an practiced windows, circles, and other things in perspective. Not perfect, by any standard, but a LONG way from where I was just a couple of weeks ago. The concept of sketching quickly in perspective is getting there...
Kev
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OP
machine_punk
Well-known member
Done with the Fantastic Light Bracket
Well, folks...one of my first projects is FINALLY DONE! The first, of two, brackets for one of my dental lights is finished. Final assembly completed. Last rivet driven. Signature Aerodrome Satin Finish applied.
If you will remember, I bought a couple of dental lights on eBay (yes, I made sure I had all the lights I needed, BEFORE I mentioned it on Garage Journal...so you guys wouldn't be competing against me for the lights I wanted.)...
View media item 12624
This is where the lights have lived, waiting for me to build mounts for them. I used wire to attach them to lag bolts, driven into studs, since seismic activity is possible in this area...
The company who built these lights, Pelton & Crane, called them "LF," for Light Fantastic. Based on the time frame in which these lights were built, I assume that is a play on the phrase, "To trip the light fantastic, " that is, to 'dance.' As a play on their name for the lights, I call these Fantastic Light Brackets. Since the reflectors in these lights are parabolic in shape, I decided to design the brackets as parabolas. The curvy shapes of the horizontal and vertical pieces on this bracket are parabolas.
I wanted to mount these lights on my Reconfigurable Tool Board. Think "custom, metal, peg board." Here are some of the Custom Tool Boards, mounted on the frame, called the Reconfigurable Tool Board, for those of you who just joined us...
View media item 22409
OK...I've made you wait long enough. Here are a couple of nice 'studio' shots...
The obligatory shot of the stamped label:
FIRST LINE:
- CTB FLB for "Custom Tool Board, Fantastic Light Bracket."
- 6/2/13 (crossed out)...I'm not sure what made me think I was going to finish this bracket in the next day or two, but I went ahead and stamped the completion date, back when I completed the back plate and stamped the information onto it.
- 10/28/13. Instead of putting a serial number on the first of any project, I mark it as a prototype and mark it with the date of completion. I did, indeed, actually finish it on 10/28/13.
NEXT LINE:
- THE AERODROME STUDIO (The name of my artistic metalworking studio.)
- M_P (my maker's mark for now, for Machine_Punk. Some day, I plan to get a custom maker's mark stamp made, like you see with silver smiths.)
- -PROTOTYPE- (simply means it is the first of a new product.)
OK, enough of the 'pretty' shots...lets see this thing in action in the 'Studio. Here it is, mounted at the top of the Reconfigurable Tool Rack, in the spot over the workbench...
Here is the lamp, mounted in the bracket for the first time, positioned as I would use it for lighting up something on the bench...
Here is the light, fully-extended from the wall. There is no problem with the bracket holding up this weight at the end of a long arm. This length allows me to light up something on the other side of the garage stall (my studio is about one-garage-stall wide and takes up about half of that garage stall)...
Here is a closeup of the bracket, to show you the design features I included to make sure this would not all come crashing down on my head:
- (YELLOW OVAL): The back plate of the light bracket is attached to the Reconfigurable Tool Rack with 6 machine screws on each side. These are standard screws for this commercially-available rack rail, which came pre-threaded for 10-32. I used socket-head cap screws because, well, they are the coolest fastener out there (aside from solid rivets).
- (RED OVAL): The bolts which attach the standard rack rail to the framework are generally evenly spaced over the length of the rail, except at the top...where I put three of them in very close proximity, knowing I was going to mount stuff like this at the top.
- (GREEN OVAL): I also intentionally made sure the cross brace on the wall, a length of strut, was close to where these heavier loads were going to be mounted.
I have two of these lamps. I also planned to build other shop equipment on articulating arms. I was thinking about mounting a small fan at the end of an arm and a lighted magnifying glass on another one. Otherwise, I might just build custom fluorescent light fixtures to fit the other two top spaces of the Reconfigurable Tool Rack...
Here is the light pattern on the bench. Hmmm...sorta like the area of a mouth. I wonder why? This isn't the perfect pattern for a bench light, but it puts a LOT of light in one spot. This is how relatively brighter it is than my already-daylight-bright fluorescent overhead lights. The Light has a switch (at the top of the square box, where it mounts to the bracket--you can see it in a couple of pictures above) for low-mid-high brightness. I have it on 'high' here. That is just a standard rubber mallet, for size comparison of the lit area. The square box at the base of the arm mounts a transformer, which reduces regular 110 volts to 24 volts, to feed the halogen bulb in the lamp...
And there you have it! Finally done with one of the light brackets and it does seem "Fantastic" in deed. As usual, I learned a lot about designing for rivets in this project. It works just as well as I hoped it would and I finally have one of my all-time favorite lights mounted in the 'Studio.
Kev
Well, folks...one of my first projects is FINALLY DONE! The first, of two, brackets for one of my dental lights is finished. Final assembly completed. Last rivet driven. Signature Aerodrome Satin Finish applied.
If you will remember, I bought a couple of dental lights on eBay (yes, I made sure I had all the lights I needed, BEFORE I mentioned it on Garage Journal...so you guys wouldn't be competing against me for the lights I wanted.)...
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This is where the lights have lived, waiting for me to build mounts for them. I used wire to attach them to lag bolts, driven into studs, since seismic activity is possible in this area...
The company who built these lights, Pelton & Crane, called them "LF," for Light Fantastic. Based on the time frame in which these lights were built, I assume that is a play on the phrase, "To trip the light fantastic, " that is, to 'dance.' As a play on their name for the lights, I call these Fantastic Light Brackets. Since the reflectors in these lights are parabolic in shape, I decided to design the brackets as parabolas. The curvy shapes of the horizontal and vertical pieces on this bracket are parabolas.
I wanted to mount these lights on my Reconfigurable Tool Board. Think "custom, metal, peg board." Here are some of the Custom Tool Boards, mounted on the frame, called the Reconfigurable Tool Board, for those of you who just joined us...
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OK...I've made you wait long enough. Here are a couple of nice 'studio' shots...
The obligatory shot of the stamped label:
FIRST LINE:
- CTB FLB for "Custom Tool Board, Fantastic Light Bracket."
- 6/2/13 (crossed out)...I'm not sure what made me think I was going to finish this bracket in the next day or two, but I went ahead and stamped the completion date, back when I completed the back plate and stamped the information onto it.
- 10/28/13. Instead of putting a serial number on the first of any project, I mark it as a prototype and mark it with the date of completion. I did, indeed, actually finish it on 10/28/13.
NEXT LINE:
- THE AERODROME STUDIO (The name of my artistic metalworking studio.)
- M_P (my maker's mark for now, for Machine_Punk. Some day, I plan to get a custom maker's mark stamp made, like you see with silver smiths.)
- -PROTOTYPE- (simply means it is the first of a new product.)
OK, enough of the 'pretty' shots...lets see this thing in action in the 'Studio. Here it is, mounted at the top of the Reconfigurable Tool Rack, in the spot over the workbench...
Here is the lamp, mounted in the bracket for the first time, positioned as I would use it for lighting up something on the bench...
Here is the light, fully-extended from the wall. There is no problem with the bracket holding up this weight at the end of a long arm. This length allows me to light up something on the other side of the garage stall (my studio is about one-garage-stall wide and takes up about half of that garage stall)...
Here is a closeup of the bracket, to show you the design features I included to make sure this would not all come crashing down on my head:
- (YELLOW OVAL): The back plate of the light bracket is attached to the Reconfigurable Tool Rack with 6 machine screws on each side. These are standard screws for this commercially-available rack rail, which came pre-threaded for 10-32. I used socket-head cap screws because, well, they are the coolest fastener out there (aside from solid rivets).
- (RED OVAL): The bolts which attach the standard rack rail to the framework are generally evenly spaced over the length of the rail, except at the top...where I put three of them in very close proximity, knowing I was going to mount stuff like this at the top.
- (GREEN OVAL): I also intentionally made sure the cross brace on the wall, a length of strut, was close to where these heavier loads were going to be mounted.
I have two of these lamps. I also planned to build other shop equipment on articulating arms. I was thinking about mounting a small fan at the end of an arm and a lighted magnifying glass on another one. Otherwise, I might just build custom fluorescent light fixtures to fit the other two top spaces of the Reconfigurable Tool Rack...
Here is the light pattern on the bench. Hmmm...sorta like the area of a mouth. I wonder why? This isn't the perfect pattern for a bench light, but it puts a LOT of light in one spot. This is how relatively brighter it is than my already-daylight-bright fluorescent overhead lights. The Light has a switch (at the top of the square box, where it mounts to the bracket--you can see it in a couple of pictures above) for low-mid-high brightness. I have it on 'high' here. That is just a standard rubber mallet, for size comparison of the lit area. The square box at the base of the arm mounts a transformer, which reduces regular 110 volts to 24 volts, to feed the halogen bulb in the lamp...
And there you have it! Finally done with one of the light brackets and it does seem "Fantastic" in deed. As usual, I learned a lot about designing for rivets in this project. It works just as well as I hoped it would and I finally have one of my all-time favorite lights mounted in the 'Studio.
Kev
OP
machine_punk
Well-known member
Thanks! I am feeling great about it, though it is a bit anticlimactic now (I mean, it really is just a bracket for a light). I appreciate you stopping by. I've been catching up on your thread lately...looks like you are working on lighting too (waaay more lighting than I am).
Kev
OP
machine_punk
Well-known member
I thought I'd show you some more 'behind the scenes' stuff here at The Aerodrome Studio. I've been working a little harder on photography lately. I think I've already shared that I upgraded to a digital SLR (a Canon "D-Something-or-the-other." It is an older model, with about 10 megapixels, so I was able to pick up the camera body for a song. The lenses are still holding their value, simply because the mounting system is still in use (Canon's EF system of lenses).
There are the new EFS lenses, which use the same physical mounting system and electronics, but move the back of the lens closer to the imager...which compensates for the smaller digital imager, over the size of 35mm film. Those lenses won't work with my camera, though (they would physically collide with something in the camera). That means the venerable Canon EF lenses for film cameras are still usable, you just have to 'convert' the focal length, if you are going to use them on the smaller, digital imager. You use a conversion factor of 1.6. So, for my 50mm focal length lens, which is built to 'see what a human eye sees' on a standard film camera, it becomes the equivalent of an 80mm lens on a film camera. That means it sees a little less than is usually seen by a normal human eye. Since the lens has a fixed focal length, it also means I have 'bipedal zoom...' that is, I have to zoom by literally moving my two feet to reposition the camera for a different shot. It also means my lens won't focus closer than about three feet from an object. No macro here. So, to get a 'true' 50mm lense, I'd need to buy something in the range of 30mm. The lens I'd really like to have is in the range of $800. Not completely out of my budget, but something I could slowly save up for.
On the flip side, it takes wonderful, sharp pictures, as long as your subject isn't too deep or you aren't standing too close. Depending on how close you are to a human subject, this lens can have the eyes in focus, but the tip of the nose out of focus. EVERY lens has its foibles...you have to pick the lens with issues you can live with. I just have to step back further, to get the whole scene in the picture, and take a bunch of pics, making sure the camera focuses on different parts of the object, so I can pick the photo which tells the story I want.
I take dozen's of pictures of each shot to make sure I end up with the 'right thing' in focus. For example, I took about 200 pictures today, to get the eight-or-so new pictures in the post about finishing the Fantastic Light Bracket. The first 42 shots were useless, since I was trying to use direct natural light and a lot of the subject was in shadow. I moved out of direct sunlight and added artificial light to the mix, to get the pictures you ended up seeing in the post.
As convenient as my little, Sony, point-and-shoot camera was, the lens was not stellar. I suppose that is to be expected, from a camera which is literally smaller than a deck of cards, with a lens folded into a space smaller than your pinky. It WAS convenient, but it didn't make the best pictures.
Here is a behind-the-scenes look at The Aerodrome [photography] Studio...
Most of the principles I use come from this book, which is out of print, but can usually be found fairly inexpensively...
http://www.amazon.com/dp/0782143814/?tag=atomicindus08-20
This book shows you how to set up a small studio and how to do that for pennies-on-the-dollar, compared to professional studios. Notice my 'clamp light' with a fluorescent bulb and a shower curtain 'diffuser' held in place with wooden clothes pins. The clothes pins, at least, will be found in any professional photographer's kit...they are the industry-standard 'small clip' for film sets...having their own designation in production lingo, the "C-47."
I use a couple of things for my 'seamless.' (the background in photography...a surface without seams.) Here, you see a couple of sheets of brown 'artist's paper,' just went to my local art store and got a couple of sheets of it. I also have a couple of yards of brown, fuzzy cloth, which I use for larger items.
Kev
There are the new EFS lenses, which use the same physical mounting system and electronics, but move the back of the lens closer to the imager...which compensates for the smaller digital imager, over the size of 35mm film. Those lenses won't work with my camera, though (they would physically collide with something in the camera). That means the venerable Canon EF lenses for film cameras are still usable, you just have to 'convert' the focal length, if you are going to use them on the smaller, digital imager. You use a conversion factor of 1.6. So, for my 50mm focal length lens, which is built to 'see what a human eye sees' on a standard film camera, it becomes the equivalent of an 80mm lens on a film camera. That means it sees a little less than is usually seen by a normal human eye. Since the lens has a fixed focal length, it also means I have 'bipedal zoom...' that is, I have to zoom by literally moving my two feet to reposition the camera for a different shot. It also means my lens won't focus closer than about three feet from an object. No macro here. So, to get a 'true' 50mm lense, I'd need to buy something in the range of 30mm. The lens I'd really like to have is in the range of $800. Not completely out of my budget, but something I could slowly save up for.
On the flip side, it takes wonderful, sharp pictures, as long as your subject isn't too deep or you aren't standing too close. Depending on how close you are to a human subject, this lens can have the eyes in focus, but the tip of the nose out of focus. EVERY lens has its foibles...you have to pick the lens with issues you can live with. I just have to step back further, to get the whole scene in the picture, and take a bunch of pics, making sure the camera focuses on different parts of the object, so I can pick the photo which tells the story I want.
I take dozen's of pictures of each shot to make sure I end up with the 'right thing' in focus. For example, I took about 200 pictures today, to get the eight-or-so new pictures in the post about finishing the Fantastic Light Bracket. The first 42 shots were useless, since I was trying to use direct natural light and a lot of the subject was in shadow. I moved out of direct sunlight and added artificial light to the mix, to get the pictures you ended up seeing in the post.
As convenient as my little, Sony, point-and-shoot camera was, the lens was not stellar. I suppose that is to be expected, from a camera which is literally smaller than a deck of cards, with a lens folded into a space smaller than your pinky. It WAS convenient, but it didn't make the best pictures.
Here is a behind-the-scenes look at The Aerodrome [photography] Studio...
Most of the principles I use come from this book, which is out of print, but can usually be found fairly inexpensively...
http://www.amazon.com/dp/0782143814/?tag=atomicindus08-20
This book shows you how to set up a small studio and how to do that for pennies-on-the-dollar, compared to professional studios. Notice my 'clamp light' with a fluorescent bulb and a shower curtain 'diffuser' held in place with wooden clothes pins. The clothes pins, at least, will be found in any professional photographer's kit...they are the industry-standard 'small clip' for film sets...having their own designation in production lingo, the "C-47."
I use a couple of things for my 'seamless.' (the background in photography...a surface without seams.) Here, you see a couple of sheets of brown 'artist's paper,' just went to my local art store and got a couple of sheets of it. I also have a couple of yards of brown, fuzzy cloth, which I use for larger items.
Kev
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gabemaita
Member
that light is freakin awesome. love it. beautiful and functional. with it extended out like that does it torque the modular tool board(which i am in love with)?
OP
machine_punk
Well-known member
Thanks! There is a little flex, but hardly noticeable. I know that I can hang from the top rail of the framework without any problem. I pulled very hard on the bracket, before mounting the light (not my full weight, but I suspect it would have supported me...that many rivets, on 1/4 aluminum plate is a LOT of overengineering). I did pull down on the arm, while it was extended, and their is NO movement at the machine screws which mount the back plate to the frame, just normal, minor flexing of the whole system, as it takes the load.
Thanks for the kind words...I'm looking forward to getting that framework filled with some more tool boards. Stayed awake WAY too late into the morning thinking of new ideas for those tool boards.
Kev
Thanks for the kind words...I'm looking forward to getting that framework filled with some more tool boards. Stayed awake WAY too late into the morning thinking of new ideas for those tool boards.
Kev
OP
machine_punk
Well-known member
Thanks! There no real movement, from any part of the system, with just the dental light, no matter how far it is extended. In the dental office, these are mounted on top of a thick-walled pole, with a 1-11/16" (440mm) inside diameter. The light fixture and arm are fairly light...with most of the weight right at the square box at the mount...which is where a transformer is mounted to knock 110 volts down to 24 volts.
I know that I can hang from the top rail of the framework without any problem. I pulled very hard on the bracket, before mounting the light (not my full weight, but I suspect it would have supported me...that many rivets, on 1/4 aluminum plate is a LOT of overengineering). Of the whole system, I am most concerned about the 12 machine screws which hold the back plate onto the rack rail...and there was no movement, even when I put a little more weight on the light arm, at full extension. There was just normal, minor flexing of the whole system, as it took the load.
Here is an excerpt from the post above...with all the design features meant to deal with heavy loads at the top of the rack...
--[Here is a closeup of the bracket, to show you the design features I included to make sure this would not all come crashing down on my head:
- (YELLOW OVAL): The back plate of the light bracket is attached to the Reconfigurable Tool Rack with 6 machine screws on each side. These are standard screws for this commercially-available rack rail, which came pre-threaded for 10-32. I used socket-head cap screws because, well, they are the coolest fastener out there (aside from solid rivets).
- (RED OVAL): The bolts which attach the standard rack rail to the framework are generally evenly spaced over the length of the rail, except at the top...where I put three of them in very close proximity, knowing I was going to mount stuff like this at the top.
- (GREEN OVAL): I also intentionally made sure the cross brace on the wall, a length of strut, was close to where these heavier loads were going to be mounted.]--
That is actually my favorite picture of the Fantastic Light Bracket, once you remove the drawings...
I can see now that I am going to need to machine a notch into the bottom of the plate, to allow the power cord to go behind the Reconfigurable Tool Rack, without being pinched between two Custom Tool Boards.
Thanks for the kind words...I'm looking forward to getting that framework filled with some more tool boards. Stayed awake WAY too late into the morning thinking of new ideas for those tool boards.
Kev
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Hugo L.
Well-known member
Whoa...
OP
machine_punk
Well-known member
Thanks (I think)...looks like you are relatively new to posting here. Welcome! I didn't see any threads you have started...looking forward to seeing your garage, tools, and projects.
Kev
OP
machine_punk
Well-known member
Gas Torch Course at TM Tech
After three years of trying to get there, I was finally able to get to the Gas Torch Intensive Course at TM Technologies, with Kent White. It was great to meet another GJ member there, RETROSMITH. I didn't think I'd be able to make it to the course this year either, but things worked out at the last moment.
Several years ago, I was trained on TIG welding at another course I took. I've been looking for a TIG, or even a MIG setup on-and-off, since then. The issue is that I don't have a spare 220 outlet in the garage (just the dryer outlet) and all the stuff I want is incredibly expensive...especially since I will need AC TIG as well, for welding aluminum. So, in the meantime, I planned to get a gas welding setup and using that, until things worked out for buying an electric welding setup of some sort.
I already bought a used tank setup off CL, along with a few other welding supplies...
View media item 23909
I recently purchased the Meco Midget torch from TM Technologies, along with some aluminum welding supplies...
Here is the Meco Midget, which is the only torch used at the course...
I did a lot of torch work over the 4-day course. Here is my stack of 'coupons' from soldering, brazing, and welding all sorts of materials. We made it to flange-welding aluminum by the 4th morning, then onto ****-welding aluminum by the last afternoon...
Kent and I got to comparing our vintage welding eye wear and I noticed this jewel in his collection--an all-metal eyeglass protective case, with a metal spring closure. How cool is that?!?!...
I started this course thinking, "Gas welding will easily bridge the gap, until I can get what I need for electric welding." I ended the class thinking, "I may never need another welding method in my shop."
Kev
After three years of trying to get there, I was finally able to get to the Gas Torch Intensive Course at TM Technologies, with Kent White. It was great to meet another GJ member there, RETROSMITH. I didn't think I'd be able to make it to the course this year either, but things worked out at the last moment.
Several years ago, I was trained on TIG welding at another course I took. I've been looking for a TIG, or even a MIG setup on-and-off, since then. The issue is that I don't have a spare 220 outlet in the garage (just the dryer outlet) and all the stuff I want is incredibly expensive...especially since I will need AC TIG as well, for welding aluminum. So, in the meantime, I planned to get a gas welding setup and using that, until things worked out for buying an electric welding setup of some sort.
I already bought a used tank setup off CL, along with a few other welding supplies...
View media item 23909
I recently purchased the Meco Midget torch from TM Technologies, along with some aluminum welding supplies...
Here is the Meco Midget, which is the only torch used at the course...
I did a lot of torch work over the 4-day course. Here is my stack of 'coupons' from soldering, brazing, and welding all sorts of materials. We made it to flange-welding aluminum by the 4th morning, then onto ****-welding aluminum by the last afternoon...
Kent and I got to comparing our vintage welding eye wear and I noticed this jewel in his collection--an all-metal eyeglass protective case, with a metal spring closure. How cool is that?!?!...
I started this course thinking, "Gas welding will easily bridge the gap, until I can get what I need for electric welding." I ended the class thinking, "I may never need another welding method in my shop."
Kev
ScubaSteve
Well-known member
Awesome stuff, Kev......great pics as well. Is the almond color of the light's arm driving you nuts? Ever consider stripping that down and anodizing?
OP
machine_punk
Well-known member
Awesome stuff, Kev......great pics as well. Is the almond color of the light's arm driving you nuts? Ever consider stripping that down and anodizing?
It didn't, until you mentioned it.
I actually like the older, vintage colors. It doesn't really bother me. I actually like the almond color better than the gray color of the other one (which also doesn't have the handles I like...not sure why I didn't catch that, when I bought it).
I'm not really sure what the metal is, underneath the paint. These were made in the 1950's, I think, so they may be zinc, or some other pot metal casting. I don't think they are aluminum.
If anything, I'll likely strip them down someday and paint them in one of my 'shop colors,' which are going to be fudgesicle brown and light yellow.
My overall goal is to have my studio be an inspiring place to work...that is, to be surrounded by things which are functional and pleasing to look at.
Thanks for the kind words, and stopping by to check things out!
You sir, are very creative and talented. I have been admiring this thread for some time now, but never chimed in. Keep making well built and designed projects for all of us followers to enjoy!!! I'll try to keep up with this thread, there are so many great ones here its overwhelming..
OP
machine_punk
Well-known member
Why thank you! I stopped by your thread and was amazed myself. Great design ideas. Great fabrication skills (wood and metal). Nice use of recycled materials. Good job!
I agree with how difficult it is to keep up with all the threads I want to...there is just so much good stuff here.
I certainly plan to keep posting projects here. Garage Journal has been good to me, even though I don't quite fit their profile. 'You ain't seen nothin' yet.' If you like what I have already done, you will really be pleased with some of the stuff I am planning now.
Kev
I agree with how difficult it is to keep up with all the threads I want to...there is just so much good stuff here.
I certainly plan to keep posting projects here. Garage Journal has been good to me, even though I don't quite fit their profile. 'You ain't seen nothin' yet.' If you like what I have already done, you will really be pleased with some of the stuff I am planning now.
Kev
Wingnut65
Well-known member
Great work on the CTB FLB! 1/4" aluminum should hold it there a while.
Great idea on the welding class. I have a MIG welder, but have never turned it on yet. I should really take a class to know how to use it correctly.
And congrats on the sketching. It takes time to think and draw in 3D and getting the perspective right. You are on the right track. I have some graph paper templates in various angles, scales and vanishing points that help when I really get serious. Google "perspective graph paper" and see some that can be downloaded to make it easier for layouts.
BTW, now that Steve mentioned it, almond doesn't really go in your shop. Never mind, its fine!
Great idea on the welding class. I have a MIG welder, but have never turned it on yet. I should really take a class to know how to use it correctly.
And congrats on the sketching. It takes time to think and draw in 3D and getting the perspective right. You are on the right track. I have some graph paper templates in various angles, scales and vanishing points that help when I really get serious. Google "perspective graph paper" and see some that can be downloaded to make it easier for layouts.
BTW, now that Steve mentioned it, almond doesn't really go in your shop. Never mind, its fine!
OP
machine_punk
Well-known member
Thanks! I agree, it isn't going anywhere with the 1/4" plate. I plan to begin designing with thinner material, but I had the plate lying around and it was perfect for that task. I have a second Fantastic Light Bracket cut out and ready to start drilling and riveting, but that is probably going to sink down to the bottom of the priority list for now.
Thanks for the tip on the perspective graph paper. I knew all about the isometric graph paper, but isometric perspective looks pretty amateur, next to real perspective. It never even occurred to me that someone might have built perspective templates and posted them. I've really made a lot of progress on the sketching...but most of that is designing future projects, so I don't want to post much up here on GJ, until the project each project is underway.
I highly recommend a welding class, particularly if you are thinking about using the gas torch. I suspect you can get MIG basics at a community college course. I think I've decided to stick with the gas torch for now. I have the gear and now I have the knowledge to do pretty much any welding I will ever need.
I had no problem with the almond color, until you guys mentioned it! Of course, now I HAVE to change it. Actually, it has been my plan all along to repaint all the major tools in the shop, including the Baileigh 3-in-1 sheetmetal machine, with my chosen shop colors. But that is a long way down the LOTTD (List Of Things To Do).Thanks for stopping by and commenting. I know there are a lot of great threads out on GJ now and I appreciate you taking the time to stop here for a moment.
Kev.
OP
machine_punk
Well-known member
More Oxy-Acetylene
I am torn. I had some free time today and the rest of the family was busy on their own projects. I have been spending a LOT of time designing and drawing lately and I wanted to get out the sketch book and do some more sketching. I was doing some ideation on small boxes to practice flange welding. In aluminum, flange welding is a bit easier than **** welding and is great preparation for improving your welding technique in aluminum. Here are a few of the ideas I came up with the other day...
http://theaerodromestudio.com/wordpress/wp-content/uploads/2013/11/2013-11-21-Small-****-Welded-Boxes-800x591.jpg
On the other hand, I've just been to this fabulous gas torch course, where I got very comfortable with the use of the torch and I don't want to lose those skills.
There was so much information during the 4 days of the course, I had to take constant notes. I have been reviewing the notes I took during the gas torch course like a madman and reviewing the preparation materials sent to me before the course, and scanning and retyping things into OneNote.
Unfortunately, my studio is small and full of flammable stuff and I have a history of starting things on fire with a gas torch (and it isn't nearly as clean as you see it in this picture).
View media item 20570
Because of this, I tend to use my gas torch outside. The nice thing is that it is still in the 70's and clear here, during the day.
So, I got some aluminum coupons together and did some welding today. Of course, since I just took a bunch of tools and gear to the gas torch course, my gear was spread all over the place (OK, I'll be honest...the studio is in a bit of disarray right now). By the time I gathered all the stuff I needed, I got
Oh...just about forgot to show you the cool new device I saw at the Mastering the Torch course...a torch lighter. I gather these things are well-known by the jewelry folks. It was the first time I've ever seen one and I immediately said to myself, Machine_Punk, you gotta get yourself one of those and I don't care what it costs...
Fortunately, it is in the $40 range and easily available at the jewelry supply houses online. I happened to use Rio Grande...
http://www.riogrande.com/Product/Automatic-Torch-Ignitor/503048?Pos=6
When you press down on any of the semi-circular buttons with your torch tip, the cage in the center starts sparking constantly (like the starter on a gas burner on a stove top), which lights your torch immediately and easily. None of that fiddling around with the flint strikers.
Here is a picture from today...
[Bottom, Right]- I had this idea for a new way to make labels for my projects. Start with copper. Use letter stamps to put words on that copper. Tin the copper sheet with solder, using the wet wipe method. Sand off the tinning from the surface, leaving the tin in the letters.
The idea worked. But, it isn't enough 'silver' to make much of a difference. I think I'll try this again with a bright paint, instead of solder. Maybe even glow-in-the-dark paint, if I can find some.
[Bottom, Left] This was just a quick warm up with flange welding aluminum. I think this is .045 aluminum sheet. I think it is 5052. ..to make sure I didn't lose too much since I finished the course a couple of weeks ago. I'd say I nailed it.
[Top, Right] This was a test to see if one of the joints I want to use on the small, flange-welded boxes will work. It does. This wasn't nearly as pretty, since the sun was quickly going down and I couldn't really see that well on the setup.
[Top, Left] This is an extrusion I have a LOT of. It is a "T" extrusion. I got a great deal on about eleven 14-foot sticks of this, from someone who was just trying to get rid of it. I've thought a lot about how to join this with rivets. This is just a test of how I might join it by welding. My understanding of welding joint design is that you generally want as many 'inches' of weld as possible in a joint, to give it the most strength. I know some joints don't need that much strength, but here I am just working through how I plan to put the joint together.
There you have it. Another Saturday in The Aerodrome Studio.
Kev
I am torn. I had some free time today and the rest of the family was busy on their own projects. I have been spending a LOT of time designing and drawing lately and I wanted to get out the sketch book and do some more sketching. I was doing some ideation on small boxes to practice flange welding. In aluminum, flange welding is a bit easier than **** welding and is great preparation for improving your welding technique in aluminum. Here are a few of the ideas I came up with the other day...
http://theaerodromestudio.com/wordpress/wp-content/uploads/2013/11/2013-11-21-Small-****-Welded-Boxes-800x591.jpg
On the other hand, I've just been to this fabulous gas torch course, where I got very comfortable with the use of the torch and I don't want to lose those skills.
There was so much information during the 4 days of the course, I had to take constant notes. I have been reviewing the notes I took during the gas torch course like a madman and reviewing the preparation materials sent to me before the course, and scanning and retyping things into OneNote.
Unfortunately, my studio is small and full of flammable stuff and I have a history of starting things on fire with a gas torch (and it isn't nearly as clean as you see it in this picture).
View media item 20570
Because of this, I tend to use my gas torch outside. The nice thing is that it is still in the 70's and clear here, during the day.
So, I got some aluminum coupons together and did some welding today. Of course, since I just took a bunch of tools and gear to the gas torch course, my gear was spread all over the place (OK, I'll be honest...the studio is in a bit of disarray right now). By the time I gathered all the stuff I needed, I got
Oh...just about forgot to show you the cool new device I saw at the Mastering the Torch course...a torch lighter. I gather these things are well-known by the jewelry folks. It was the first time I've ever seen one and I immediately said to myself, Machine_Punk, you gotta get yourself one of those and I don't care what it costs...
Fortunately, it is in the $40 range and easily available at the jewelry supply houses online. I happened to use Rio Grande...
http://www.riogrande.com/Product/Automatic-Torch-Ignitor/503048?Pos=6
When you press down on any of the semi-circular buttons with your torch tip, the cage in the center starts sparking constantly (like the starter on a gas burner on a stove top), which lights your torch immediately and easily. None of that fiddling around with the flint strikers.
Here is a picture from today...
[Bottom, Right]- I had this idea for a new way to make labels for my projects. Start with copper. Use letter stamps to put words on that copper. Tin the copper sheet with solder, using the wet wipe method. Sand off the tinning from the surface, leaving the tin in the letters.
The idea worked. But, it isn't enough 'silver' to make much of a difference. I think I'll try this again with a bright paint, instead of solder. Maybe even glow-in-the-dark paint, if I can find some.
[Bottom, Left] This was just a quick warm up with flange welding aluminum. I think this is .045 aluminum sheet. I think it is 5052. ..to make sure I didn't lose too much since I finished the course a couple of weeks ago. I'd say I nailed it.
[Top, Right] This was a test to see if one of the joints I want to use on the small, flange-welded boxes will work. It does. This wasn't nearly as pretty, since the sun was quickly going down and I couldn't really see that well on the setup.
[Top, Left] This is an extrusion I have a LOT of. It is a "T" extrusion. I got a great deal on about eleven 14-foot sticks of this, from someone who was just trying to get rid of it. I've thought a lot about how to join this with rivets. This is just a test of how I might join it by welding. My understanding of welding joint design is that you generally want as many 'inches' of weld as possible in a joint, to give it the most strength. I know some joints don't need that much strength, but here I am just working through how I plan to put the joint together.
There you have it. Another Saturday in The Aerodrome Studio.
Kev