The Aerodrome Studio - Machine_Punk

[Wingnut65]

Kev, I brought the 18" bead roller home from my Dad's garage and will get around to using it. Turns out it is by Central Machinery from HF, but it seems pretty good for starting out. Came with an assortment of rollers.

Might not be a bad idea to pick one up for starters when they have a big sale. It give you all the basics to get started, and provide supplies when you want to build your own!

 

[Guster]

That looks great! Must be awesome to be one of the few in the drawing class who can turn concept into reality.

As a complete side note, I've notice the Australian GJ members get first crack at replying to my posts, since I usually post late at night and I am on the West coast. I've been trying to convert numbers to metric in my posts…I hope that helps you guys overseas get a better idea of scale.
Kev

Hehehe… definitely, those Ozzies need all the help they can get converting handspan, pinky width and kangaroo-tails into any standard for measurement Australia and New Zealand share a similar rivalry as US does with Canada with the exception of a few thousand miles of open water and rugby to temper it. From a Greenwich perspective we’re generally another 2 hours ahead of Australia depending on daylight savings. Otherwise NZ doesn’t have too much trouble with units of measure due to reliance on import and all the standards of the world that comes with it.

And it is a perfect idea! Too bad I don't have a bead roller. That is definitely my next LARGE machine purchase (or build). I got to play with one at the last Metal Meet and made a test plate with 'flames.' I also made a 'red cross' for a first aid cabinet I want to build for The 'Studio.

Seconded. That would definitely up your game. Other than the general structural and aesthetic benefits it will also help maintain the brushed finish by limiting scratches to raised wear areas. I cannot afford a Swage/Jenny right now either hence keeping an eye out for two appropriate drive gears. The rest can all be made from the offcut bin at home along with dies I want. Even found a hard urethane skate wheel set aside for a future tipping die. A great use for that lathe BTW!

Incidentally, happened to talk about your portfolio with someone I know who regularly carries a cheap nylon fabric one. They said they’d definitely not line it with fabric as it picks up drawing medium from the paper smudging drawings in the process which is the appeal of the hard plastic portfolios. Odd hearing function over aesthetics from an artist!

 

[machine_punk]

And there's the rub! In order to do "x" you need a tool that does "y"...and it all goes downhill from there. Especially in metalworking! On my list are a slip roll, finger brake, hydraulic press, and probably a bead roller. Of course, there's the english wheel, power hammer, etc. etc.

It takes time to accumulate those things, and building them yourself is almost as expensive.

You definitely have to make that decision...do I want spend time in the shop building equipment to work with sheet metal, or spend time in the shop building with sheet m etal. With the new welding skills (4-day "Mastering the Torch" with TinMan Tech's Kent White), that is a hard decision to make right now. Of course, the question is moot, until I save up the cash to buy a machine or materials.

As much as I've always wanted a Wheeling Machine (what they call an English Wheel, in the UK), I've seen the light. The wheeling machine will do anything you need to do, eventually--but a power hammer does it much faster. I think I'm a convert to power hammers, after seeing a few demonstrations at Metal Meets and at Kent's shop.

I know about that list! I've got a list a mile long too...of things which would make the sort of projects I do (or want to do) faster and easier. Oddly enough, I have really been enjoying hand work lately, though. I get a great deal of pleasure from 'filing down to the line' by hand, instead of using power tools. I'm even thinking about getting an old 'egg beater' hand drill, to drill holes for the rivets.

Of course, there are things you'd have to fight me to make me give it up, like the 3-in-1 sheetmetal tool. Having a shear, brake and roll just makes sheet metal work a LOT easier. I've really gotten good with the shear too--I can split a Sharpie ultra fine marker line down the center with the shear. I would definitely prefer individual tools, all old-American iron, but I simply don't have the room for them right now.

Thanks for stopping by The 'Studio and taking the time to comment.

Kev

 

[machine_punk]

Kev, I brought the 18" bead roller home from my Dad's garage and will get around to using it. Turns out it is by Central Machinery from HF, but it seems pretty good for starting out. Came with an assortment of rollers.

Might not be a bad idea to pick one up for starters when they have a big sale. It give you all the basics to get started, and provide supplies when you want to build your own!

I have really considered that. I know it is basically an 'OK' machine and whatever needs to be done to it (welding stiffer steel to the perimeter) I could do now, with the oxy-acetylene torch. I'm not sure I want to get something 'to get by,' especially if it is a manual machine. I've used power machines and, to me, that is really the way to go. I'm not really happy with any bead roller out there right now. I think it is absurd that you have a foot switch to turn on the roller, but you have to take your hands off the work to flip the forward and reverse button--which you must do constantly, when using the bead roller on artistic work. I'd much rather have a see-saw foot switch, which goes 'zero to max' in one direction when you step on one side, then 'zero to max' in reverse, when you step on the other side. A close second would be two separate foot switches--one for forward and one for reverse.

I do appreciate the input. I may still go that route (especially since I have a tiny work area and I could clamp it in the vise or work table). While I definitely want a bead roller 'next,' I'm not settled in my spirit on what the right answer is to that problem. I still haven't really seen the bead roller I want yet.

Thanks for stopping by! I am always interested in what you have to say. I hope your shop is coming along well.

Kev

 

[machine_punk]

That looks great! Must be awesome to be one of the few in the drawing class who can turn concept into reality.


Hehehe… definitely, those Ozzies need all the help they can get converting handspan, pinky width and kangaroo-tails into any standard for measurement Australia and New Zealand share a similar rivalry as US does with Canada with the exception of a few thousand miles of open water and rugby to temper it. From a Greenwich perspective we’re generally another 2 hours ahead of Australia depending on daylight savings. Otherwise NZ doesn’t have too much trouble with units of measure due to reliance on import and all the standards of the world that comes with it.


Seconded. That would definitely up your game. Other than the general structural and aesthetic benefits it will also help maintain the brushed finish by limiting scratches to raised wear areas. I cannot afford a Swage/Jenny right now either hence keeping an eye out for two appropriate drive gears. The rest can all be made from the offcut bin at home along with dies I want. Even found a hard urethane skate wheel set aside for a future tipping die. A great use for that lathe BTW!

Incidentally, happened to talk about your portfolio with someone I know who regularly carries a cheap nylon fabric one. They said they’d definitely not line it with fabric as it picks up drawing medium from the paper smudging drawings in the process which is the appeal of the hard plastic portfolios. Odd hearing function over aesthetics from an artist!

I hadn't ever thought of that. Now, I'm glad I did make a hard-side portfolio. Hopefully, I've also made it a bit more appealing than a standard plastic portfolio. The funny thing is that most of the folks I see in my class just bring two pads of paper and a couple of pencils to class. No portfolio at all. Of course, most of them can't even bother to go out and buy the correct paper, or correct size of paper the instructor asked us to bring (he didn't ask much...two pads of paper, 3 pencils, a pen, an eraser, and a pencil sharpener). It seems odd to me to invest in a course like this, then not take the advice of the professional artist, who is trying to teach you something.

Now, I am thinking a little about the other thing called a 'portfolio.' A portfolio, in art terminology in the USA can mean either "the bag or case you carry your art in" or "the brief summation of your work which you present to others (a few of your pictures, sketches or paintings which function as a quick presentation of your artistic repertoire)" The few photos or sketches of your work are usually put in a binder, which is filled with large, fancy, sheet protectors.

When you are applying for a job or trying to quickly present the scope of your work to a gallery, you need it all in one place and you need it organized to tell your story. Now that I have a reasonable body of work (both finished products and sketches), I want to put together a portfolio to present my story. There are a lot of commercially-available binders for this, in several standard sizes. Some of them use a binding post, instead of rings, so you can determine the number of pages.

I think I want to go that route and make a custom cover of aluminum and rivets. I haven't thought much further than that, but that is generally where I am heading. While I don't think I'll ever have a job as a designer, I do want to be able to present The Aerodrome Studio story in a concise way, whenever the need arises.

I'm also thinking about making The Aerodrome Studio 'Year' Books. You can get one-off books published easily now, by just uploading pictures, designing the style of the book and letting the service company print and bind as many, or few, of them as you are willing to pay for. I'd like to put together pictures from each year of the studio, so I can have a history on the shelf for others to see.

Kev.

 

[Guster]

The riveting journal of the Aerodrome studio – sorry I couldn’t resist.

First thing that came to mind of your idea to cover a book with your work was this:
http://www.kirkhammotorsports.com/images/stories/book_aoe/aoe_22.pdf
Beware the slippery slope as far as coffee table books go you’d need a matching if not equally worthy coffee table to go with it.

 

[machine_punk]

The riveting journal of the Aerodrome studio – sorry I couldn’t resist.

First thing that came to mind of your idea to cover a book with your work was this:
http://www.kirkhammotorsports.com/images/stories/book_aoe/aoe_22.pdf
Beware the slippery slope as far as coffee table books go you’d need a matching if not equally worthy coffee table to go with it.

That book cover is AMAZING! Thanks for showing me that.

Hmmm…a rivet and aluminum coffee table. (actually, wait until you see my Aero Forming Stump…basically just a specialized table…would not be too hard to modify it to coffee table proportions.)

Sitting here at Art College, waiting for my Art Class. I'm going to try to find the art store, which is supposed to be just a couple of blocks away, while waiting for my class to start.

Thanks for stopping by.

Kev

 

[machine_punk]

Long time, no post.

I've been busy with my sketching class (Ideation Sketching at California College of the Arts). I've been a good boy and doing my homework...sketching just about every night. I'll post some of that later.

BUT, great news. I've finally figured out my new logo for The Aerodrome Studio! I've been thinking about it for MONTHS...it all finally fell together the other day.

My basic idea was to base the logo on a pair of pilot's wings. A quick Google search showed me there are literally dozens of different styles of pilots wings, so which way did I want to go with this?

I went back and forth to different styles. I was discussing this with Mrs. Machine_Punk, who said, "Don't you like Art Deco, why don't you go that way with it?"

I had a real "DUH" moment on that one...but it instantly made the last couple of pieces fall into place.

I came up with a couple of options:
1. An Art Deco version of regular pilots' wings. (I didn't think I'd want to go this way, but I wanted another option, for comparison.)

2. A strict interpretation of Art Deco...replacing normal 'wings' with a common Art Deco design. (This was my preference, but I ran it both ways, to see which I would prefer.)

Another requirement of mine was that the logo look good in 2D, but also have a 3D version. I actually designed the 3D version first, using my 3D Design program, Alibre 3D Design. Then, I converted it to a 2D drawing and touched it up in Paint.

The center of the logo is based on a cog or gear, which is a nod to the "Machine" in Machine_Punk.

The center cog is rimmed by rivet heads, which is a nod to my preferred fastening method.

There is an "A" in the center of the cog, for "Aerodrome."

With no further delay, here it is, the new "Cog and Wings" logo for The Aerodrome Studio...

The 2D version...

And the 3D version...

And the losing logo...a strict interpretation of pilot's wings...

Looking forward to hearing what you guys think.

Kev

 

[Wingnut65]

Congrats on the New Ofishal M_P Logo!

I actually like both 3D versions, although the second has a lot of Red Leader influences on the wings. And I'm sure you have the idea exactly how you will fab this up for your wall.

 

[Guster]

I like the layered look of the 3d version in you preferred design. The flat version highlights how it could favour a shiny two-tone brass+copper combination which may be a bit steampunk’ish. The last one is very classic art deco and would also look great with radial style ‘wings’ like the Norse Valkyrie wings(ie. Captain America).

If keeping with classic art deco keep in mind that your design could also characterise with the products they will be used for/on and there is nothing wrong with having variations to that effect. My wife had a classic book on art deco design in advertising(called something like ‘Dynamique’) It illustrated how logos, insignia and emblems took on different shapes or design characteristics based on the product they represented. Your first one is a classic logo for institution ie. clothing, posters or letterheads. The 3D’d version being bulky and symmetrical would look great on stationary objects as it identified with something solid or immovable. The last one with more upward swept wings had some component of motion or direction hence would be great on a vehicle or object with motion like a desk fan. As an example a product emblem for a desk fan might include a plinth rather than free floating too. The only difference being where you draw the line between drawing inspiration rather than designing to the classic principles – a topic that always enjoys much debate.

It definitely needs rivets – lots of shiny rivets!

Looking forward to the next instalment of your ‘journey’!

 

[machine_punk]

Congrats on the New Ofishal M_P Logo!

I actually like both 3D versions, although the second has a lot of Red Leader influences on the wings. And I'm sure you have the idea exactly how you will fab this up for your wall.

Thanks! I like the 'wings' style too, I just like the 'strict' art deco style more. I'm not opposed to using both styles, actually.

I have been giving more thought to having more than one 'line' of products. I could use the wings art deco logo for the stuff products which draw their inspiration from aeroplanes. Then, use the strict art deco for other products which have less of an aero design, but still use rivets for fastening joints.

I also really enjoy steam punk as a style. I've thought of adding a whole new line of products, using the name "The Great Pacific Steam Consortium" to market those products.

I have a lot of specific ideas...but would rather not go too far in detail, until I am actually selling products.

I do, indeed, have a few ideas about fabbing a 3D model of this logo. Of course, ideally, it would be in aluminum. For grins, I'm thinking about having a couple of them 3D printed in plastic--just to get a feel for the design and make sure I really like it, before I build a larger version. I've also considered just handing the file over to a CNC milling shop...and get a larger one made of billet aluminum. I suspect some day, when I get bored of other projects, I will make one of aluminum sheet. I've got the soldering and brazing stuff for aluminum...shouldn't be too hard.

Thanks for taking the time to comment!

Kev

 

[machine_punk]

I like the layered look of the 3d version in you preferred design. The flat version highlights how it could favour a shiny two-tone brass+copper combination which may be a bit steampunk’ish. The last one is very classic art deco and would also look great with radial style ‘wings’ like the Norse Valkyrie wings(ie. Captain America).

If keeping with classic art deco keep in mind that your design could also characterise with the products they will be used for/on and there is nothing wrong with having variations to that effect. My wife had a classic book on art deco design in advertising(called something like ‘Dynamique’) It illustrated how logos, insignia and emblems took on different shapes or design characteristics based on the product they represented. Your first one is a classic logo for institution ie. clothing, posters or letterheads. The 3D’d version being bulky and symmetrical would look great on stationary objects as it identified with something solid or immovable. The last one with more upward swept wings had some component of motion or direction hence would be great on a vehicle or object with motion like a desk fan. As an example a product emblem for a desk fan might include a plinth rather than free floating too. The only difference being where you draw the line between drawing inspiration rather than designing to the classic principles – a topic that always enjoys much debate.

It definitely needs rivets – lots of shiny rivets!

Looking forward to the next instalment of your ‘journey’!

The 2D version lends itself to a lot of different surfaces. I was particularly thinking about having embroidered patches made for shop shirts and ball caps. Of course, a simple silk-screening on aluminum or stainless steel would work for ID plates for products. I will also likely use that version the web site and blog for now.

It wouldn't bother me at all to combine copper and brass to make a steam punk version. In fact, I've been thinking of something to attach to my art portfolio, to break up that huge, flat surface on the door flap and that might be it (riveted around the border, of course)...
View media item 37917
I looked up the valkyrie wings and I like them...I just wanted to stay with something I'd likely be able to actually fabricate in 3D, if I chose.

I like the idea of using different versions of the logo for different products. I suspect very few things are going to have the 'actual' 3D logo on them. I plan to make another version of the 2D which looks a little more '3D,' but is still definitely a 2D logo. (Yep...that is a mouthful...go take a look at the YouTube logo. It has a very 3D effect, but would be VERY recognizable, even if you just did a simple outline of the logo, with the right colors. I want that same effect--like the 3D YouTube logo--on my 2D logo. Of course, there are definitely times to use the 3D models, but you have to really skew them to see the 3D details. I want to 'imply' 3D on the 2D version, so I can use it in the plain, orthographic view you see in my 2D version, but 'feel' 3D.

This stuff just takes so much time! Not to mention that I am learning as I go. That, and life can keep a guy busy. On the plus side, I RARELY ever watch TV now. Who's got the time, when he is busy with family, work (my full-time job and covering in the same organization as a clinic manager), church and ministry activities, an art class in San Francisco each week and trying to move forward on building up an artistic metalworking studio.

The art college I go to has a 5-week extension course for building a web site. Once I get some more artwork (logos, etc.) together, I just might take that course as an intensive boost to getting my web site and blog put together finally.

Thanks for taking the time to write your thoughts down and share!

 

[RivennHewn]

I'm liking the "Wings". They get my vote.

 

[machine_punk]

Here, I told the 3D program to show me a 'straight on' view of the logo. This gives you an idea of what I would like to see as an 'implied' 3D image. Notice the shading at the end of the 'wing' tips...which indicate a cylindrical surface. Also, look at the round 'rivet' heads inside the cog. They are shaded to indicate a domed shape. I chamfered the front, outer edge of the cog too. I might actually go back and round that over, instead, to give a nice contrast of straight lines and curved lines.

And, of course, imagine this in shades of brown and yellow, instead of blue...

Kev

 

[Guster]

That does look cool and easy to adapt in a lot of ways as I see you already plan to do. I hear you on the busy life - just took a few days off to get ahead on the fence build and other work. It is so depressing to see the current state of my own projects and other work piled up behind it. At least when I do get to spent time on my projects it will be 100% guilt free.

The art deco 'valkyrie wing' is very simple design(compared to the stylised ones popular in tatoos these days) another adaptation is very reminiscent of Egyptian hieroglyphs. When you see it you'll recognise it right away. Else I can google some and PM you though I think you have your design sussed.

Hehe I'll say it again - you need a bead roller! Another option would be to press it using a positive die and soft rubber platten technique. Embossing can also be done using soft tip planishing hammer or even on an english wheel. Have a look at some of Ron Covell's videos for ideas. If you are into steam punk you might also like freehand stippling and soft tipped punch planishing technique used on softer materials like copper and aluminium.

Also a cheaper alternative to silk screen graphics on smooth hard objects is vinyl cut graphics. Getting pretty cheap to do a run of logos and wraps these days. Nearly
bought myself a vinyl cutter the other day to do my own graphics too. Just so many things I could give that final touch with some graphics.

 

[machine_punk]

Some really great ideas! The bead roller is definitely next on my list of 'big things.' I get to use one every year at the two Metal Meets I attend. Which is also where I get to see Ron Covell...my local metal meets are his local metal meets and he usually shows up to share his stuff (you see his bomber seat earlier in my posts, from the 2013 Santa Cruz Metal Meet). As a complete side note, I was watching one of my favorite shows, "How it's Made," and was pleasantly surprised to see Ron as the guy demonstrating how to make a motorcycle tank from scratch. Between Ron, Lazze, handmade seat company and the guys from Metal Meet, I have more than enough ideas to keep my bead roller humming, when I get one.

I have some thoughts about pressing too, since I have a shop press. Both for forming consistent small parts and impressing my logo into sheet metal.

I did these on Rick's bead roller at the last Santa Cruz Metal Meet. One of them will eventually be riveted onto the front of a first aid cabinet I am planning to build for the Reconfigurable Tool Rack...
View media item 21984
Here, you see a regular chisel, which I have ground over to give the radius I want. I used this to touch up the inside corners of the red cross I embossed with the bead roller...
View media item 22335
I am definitely into Steampunk! I will have to look into the freehand stippling and planishing technique you mention. Do you have any pics or references for that?

I keep thinking I need to go over to the local sign shop I usually use and get some vinyl cut. They go by size, not complexity, so I kinda like to do bulk orders. One thought I had, from a purely practical standpoint, is just getting a lot of my name printed out in smaller letters, so I can spray paint a stripe on my tools, which has my identification info 'in reverse' on the strip. I'd also like to get the speeds of my air drills and tools printed in small letters, so I can paint that on the tools as well...so I can tell their speed at a glance.

Of course, there are plenty of cool things to do with vinyl from the artistic perspective too--I'll have to think more about that, now that I have a logo. I need to get a copy to the local embroidery shop too, so she can convert it into an embroidery program and I can get some hats and shirts made.

Kev

 

[Guster]

Not on hand but seen a lot of examples in ye olde shop signs and real old sheet metal items prior to the enamel age. Stippling is a means to add texture and depth through a lot of individual or connecting ‘dots’ done with a small round nosed punch. A lot of embossing was done this way as you have fine control of how the metal is moved and formed. It can also be done from both sides to produce varying effects. Reproductions were often achieved by over a carved wooden buck before final adjusting and texturing was completed by free hand.

My mum used to do sheetmetal relief or embossing in thin brass and copper sheet which can be quite striking as an addition to another fabricated object. She had various sized round tipped rods as punches, a small ballpein hammer and 2 or 3 sheets of rubber in various densities and heavy felt as a backing or striking surface. She also maintained some wood carved bucks to rough out some regular shapes before adding detail. Soft tipped punch is similar and used to shape thin metal without marring the surface. Not so much for fine detail but rather to stylise the surface in a free hand fashion. Tools consist of a of a hollow tipped punch with a wooden(traditional) or plastic insert. Cannot recall what striking surface was used but likely similar to the afore mentioned.

Having a shop press also gives you a few options. Not as controlled or fast as a fly press but flexible none the less. Between that and your lathe you should have a whole new world of options. You can even do some nice stuff using wood and you don’t need a milling machine if you have some files, drill, grinder and welding capability to make up some basic embossing dies. Youtube is full of ideas and the possibilities are endless.

Talking about Lazze. I was quite taken with his bead roller design allowing for easily adjustable die offset. Found a similar DIY build over on H.A.M.B. which will form inspiration for my own. Found a reversible reduction motor with a worm gear that will take a sliding shaft, perfect for my build. Add it to my pile.

 

[Hantke]

The Aero Guitar Stand (December 2012):

About a year ago i would have paid you good money for one of those that fit my acoustic bass guitar! (now my *** is broke, so i have none to offer )
Is there a thread on you building that? because it's awesome.

 

[machine_punk]

Thanks for the kind words!

If you go back in this thread, starting somewhere on page 22, you will find that build. I just keep adding to this thread. I'm hoping for "Epic" some day, but for now, it is just mostly 'unwieldy.'

Kev

 

[machine_punk]

Just a quick update.

I was busy with the college sketching course for a little over two months. I suppose I should get going on posting some photos of my sketching.

I will be back in the shop soon. I need to finish up the Christmas present I am almost done with (the Aero Art Caddy). Then, I want to get going on the Aero Forming Stump, since the two Metal Meets I usually attend are coming up soon.

I was outside today, rotating the tires on my little commuter car (a 2013 Honda Fit). Since I don't work on cars much, I don't have a lot of the tools most of you guys take for granted, like a decent hydraulic car jack. I have just been using the standard scissor jack, which comes with the car, but that is really a pain, if you don't have a teenager around to crank the car up and down.

I had an idea...how about hooking up a drill to power the jack? I couldn't remember what the jack handle looked like, so I mentally prepared myself to have to build some sort of adapter to chuck into the drill to interface with the jack. Fortunately, the first piece you attach to the jack ends in a straight, round rod. That makes it a simple task of just chucking the handle piece into the drill.

Since I was already going to use air (I have the HF EarthQuake 1/2" impact gun, for removing the lug nuts), I thought I'd grab my Husky, reversible pneumatic drill. That didn't work so well. It has great power, but it didn't chuck up the jack handle very well and it spun way to fast for this application. Back to the drawing board.

I figured I was going to need to pull out my mongo drill, a 1/2" chuck electric drill, but I figured I start with the easiest one to put my hands on...a decent 3/8" chuck, variable speed, reversible drill. The handle rod fit right into the chuck, no problem. This drill runs slower than the air drill and the trigger feathers well, for really slowing things down, if needed. It worked beautifully!

I'm trying to get into more video, as opposed to pictures. I want to head that direction with my blog posts. YouTube seems to be the obvious place to post my videos, on The Aerodrome Studio Channel. Here is a quick video, from my phone, of the electric-drill-powered scissor jack. It's not a pretty video...I just really wanted a quick record of my idea, but it gives you an idea how well it works:

 

[machine_punk]

I've been watching my local CL for metal drawers for a LOOONG time. Finally found these. At the price they were asking originally ($25), I thought they'd be gone before I could pick up the phone.

A week later, they were still there...and the price dropped to $20. I notified the person and ended up going to see them a couple of days later...thought they'd be gone before I got there. Anyway, broke all the CL rules (be ready with cash, notify the person you are on the way, dash out the door as soon as you see the add, etc.) and still got the drawers for $20.

View media item 40589
View media item 40587
The actual drawers, the top, and the back are definitely aluminum. They don't seem to have a 'bottom' to either set.

They have a neat system for 'locking' the drawers...the wire handle is mounted on pivoting bars on each side. Lift the handle and it releases the catch. Let go of the handle, it drops into place and it 'locks.'

They are pretty beat up. This is actually two sets of four drawers. The current side panels are galvanized steel, which is pop-riveted in place. They have friction slides. My plan is to at least replace the current side panels with aluminum, or just separate them into two sets of four drawers, if there are decent side panels under the steel.

Of course, I plan to clean them up a bit and straighten the panels a bit. If I paint anything, it will just be the steel wire handles and pivot bar locks. I want to keep the rest of it unfinished aluminum.

Kev

 

[nine4gmc]

Those are excellent, I have the crappy steel version with no locks...

 

[Crazy Backyard Builder]

Those are very cool, the unfinished aluminum might look really good polished.

 

[djones1a]

handmadeseatco.com Have you ever checked this kids web site out?

 

[djones1a]

I don't know why that didn't link,but his name is Jamie Jordan @handmadeseatco.com.look it up if you have time.

 

[machine_punk]

Why yes, I have. I am subscribed to his YouTube channel. He makes some really cool stuff. He also makes me wish I had all day to devote to building stuff with rivets.

Thanks for stopping by!

Kev

 

[machine_punk]

Those are very cool, the unfinished aluminum might look really good polished.

Thanks. Hmmm...I do like the look of polished aluminum, but the 'signature finish' at The Aerodrome Studio is a vintage, satin finish. I'll have to think on it.

Kev

 

[machine_punk]

Those are excellent, I have the crappy steel version with no locks...

From the pics on CL, I wasn't quite sure exactly what to expect. I was still a little confused, when I picked them up, because the looked aluminum, but felt too heavy. As I said above, I found out they were heavy because of the galvanized steel side panels someone used to join the two units.

Thanks for taking the time to post!

Kev

 

[machine_punk]

Memorial Day Speech by Kevin

For those of you who didn't see it, I posted a thread about a recent speech I gave, at the American Canyon Memorial Day Ceremony.

http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=249098

 

[machine_punk]

2104 Santa Cruz Metal Meet

Had another wonderful weekend in the hills above Santa Cruz. I attended the 2014 Santa Cruz Metal Meet. (for those of you not aware of the Metal Meet phenomenon,go to: Metal Meet) #SantaCruzMetalMeet #MetalMeet


Here is a pic of one of the seminars. It is my understanding we had about 80 guys there...

There were a bunch of local, professional metalworkers there. I am sure you have heard of a few of them...


Ron Covell, of Covell Creative Metalworking was there, showing us how to shape aluminum sheet to a buck and helping folks with their projects. Ron is a really down-to-earth guy, with a tremendous knowledge of metalworking. #RonCovell #CovellCreativeMetalworking

Kent White, of TM Technologies was on hand to show us soldering, brazing and welding aluminum, using the power hammer to shape metal and generally helping folks with their projects. Kent is probably the leader in continuing research on metalworking techniques. If he tells you it is true, he has proved it in his own shop, after countless hours of testing. #KentWhite #TinManTech #TMTechnologies

And legendary custom car builder, Gene Winfield, who gave us a 3-and-a-half hour lecture on metalworking techniques (and was only just getting started, from the looks of it). I am generally not a 'car guy,' so I have to admit I didn't really know who he was. He had an incredible wealth of knowledge in working metal and I am pleased to know who he is now. #GeneWinfield


And Jere Kirkpatrick (pronounced "Jerry"), of Valley Forge Welding. He demonstrated welding with the Henrob, an interesting copper-on-steel brazing technique and helped a few folks form a 'blister,' using a bossing mallet and literal stumps. #JereKirkpatrick #ValleyForgeWelding


Michael Leeds stopped by, with Big Bertha. We ended Saturday evening with a tour of his workshop and some in-depth commentary on his current car project. His shop is such an amazing place. It is filled with objects which inspire his vision and things he has, and is, building. #MichaelLeeds #Bertha_Chronicles


Several other folks stopped by and showed off their hot rods.


And, of course, I showed of my projects from this last year and plans for my next projects. #TheAerodromeStudio #Machine_Punk


From amateur hobbyists, to seasoned professionals, the attendees represented just about every aspect of metalworking you can imagine. I talked with folks who were into shaping, welding, forging, spinning, machining, bead rolling, power hammering, wheeling, stretching, shrinking and casting metal.



It is definitely going to take me a few weeks to process the information from this weekend at the 2014. Santa Cruz Metal Meet


Happy Independence Day, everyone. Thanks to everyone who has served in the military to defend that independence.


I spent 6 years in the Nebraska Army National Guard, as a combat medic. I spent 10 years in the US Air Force, as a registered nurse, which included a few months in Iraq.


Kev

 

[machine_punk]

2014 Cuesta College Metal Meet #4

Check out the video I posted on my YouTube Channel, The Aerodrome Studio, about the Metal Meet I attended this past week. Lotsa metal shaping goodness on the Central Coast of California...

Kev

 

[Alexbn921]

Subscribed. Hello from a fellow bay area GJer. I look forward to reading through all the projects on this thread. I have been following the Rivets 101 for a while and noticed you where local. Good luck.

 

[larry_g]

Long time, no post.

I've been busy with my sketching class (Ideation Sketching at California College of the Arts). I've been a good boy and doing my homework...sketching just about every night. I'll post some of that later.

BUT, great news. I've finally figured out my new logo for The Aerodrome Studio! I've been thinking about it for MONTHS...it all finally fell together the other day.

My basic idea was to base the logo on a pair of pilot's wings. A quick Google search showed me there are literally dozens of different styles of pilots wings, so which way did I want to go with this?

I went back and forth to different styles. I was discussing this with Mrs. Machine_Punk, who said, "Don't you like Art Deco, why don't you go that way with it?"

I had a real "DUH" moment on that one...but it instantly made the last couple of pieces fall into place.

I came up with a couple of options:
1. An Art Deco version of regular pilots' wings. (I didn't think I'd want to go this way, but I wanted another option, for comparison.)

2. A strict interpretation of Art Deco...replacing normal 'wings' with a common Art Deco design. (This was my preference, but I ran it both ways, to see which I would prefer.)

Another requirement of mine was that the logo look good in 2D, but also have a 3D version. I actually designed the 3D version first, using my 3D Design program, Alibre 3D Design. Then, I converted it to a 2D drawing and touched it up in Paint.

The center of the logo is based on a cog or gear, which is a nod to the "Machine" in Machine_Punk.

The center cog is rimmed by rivet heads, which is a nod to my preferred fastening method.

There is an "A" in the center of the cog, for "Aerodrome."

With no further delay, here it is, the new "Cog and Wings" logo for The Aerodrome Studio...

The 2D version...

And the 3D version...

And the losing logo...a strict interpretation of pilot's wings...

Looking forward to hearing what you guys think.

Kev

From a strictly manufacturing point of view you have some inside corners where the wings meet the circle that will have to have a radius for ease of manufacturing if you plan to hack it out of one piece with a milling machine. So you may want to draw those in to see if it changes the look that you are trying to achieve. The smaller the overall dimension of the part the more pronounced the radius is going to be. I also wondered how your going to get the square cut on the gear tooth? First thing that passed through my mind is to make the 'gear' and rivet it to the wings. When cutting the inner circle of the wings leave a back on the circle to rivet to. Now you can have just the gear for a separate item or gear+wings logo.

lg
no neat sig line

 

[machine_punk]

Subscribed. Hello from a fellow bay area GJer. I look forward to reading through all the projects on this thread. I have been following the Rivets 101 for a while and noticed you where local. Good luck.

Hello! Great to meet another GJer in the local area. PM me, if you want to start communicating by regular email.

Kev

 

[machine_punk]

From a strictly manufacturing point of view you have some inside corners where the wings meet the circle that will have to have a radius for ease of manufacturing if you plan to hack it out of one piece with a milling machine. So you may want to draw those in to see if it changes the look that you are trying to achieve. The smaller the overall dimension of the part the more pronounced the radius is going to be. I also wondered how your going to get the square cut on the gear tooth? First thing that passed through my mind is to make the 'gear' and rivet it to the wings. When cutting the inner circle of the wings leave a back on the circle to rivet to. Now you can have just the gear for a separate item or gear+wings logo.

lg
no neat sig line

Thanks for the input! I had not really thought through much of what it was going to take to 'build' this logo. I'm thinking about getting a couple of smaller-scale versions printed on a 3D printer. I do think I will make a larger version some day...perhaps a couple of feet across. Maybe bigger. I don't have a mill, but if someone could mill the minor assemblies (each individual 'feather' of the wings, as close as possible with the cog and circular framework), I don't have a problem hand-filing the fine detail. I could then solder the pieces together and polish it up. I am getting very comfortable with the gas torch with soldering, brazing and welding.

I appreciate the input!

Kev

 

[ilovevocs]

Just a little input on your logo from what I know of logo design. I'm an architect but find myself doing allot of my own graphic design work and it is an interest so why not learn more.

Your logo will likely have to function as a black and white design. I know this
is kind of your hobby shop ( nothing derogatory intended )and maybe you can avoid it but professional logos always have a black and white version that is powerful because it appears on professional documents like invoices, checks, purchase orders, ect. Mostly higher volume documents.... Not saying that is your intention but branding is huge and if your putting in the effort take it all the way. I also feel that working with the logo in black and white forces me to refine the geometry further and typically lends to a more sophisticated design.

I personally would do an SLA print, then a urethane mold, then epoxy in the mold to make multiples. Finishing the SLA very nicey so the epoxy logos are near paint finish quality.

My add... Also your simple 2d version if printed in color could still posses some gradient shading to create high lights shadow creating a 3d representation of the two d logo. Good for websites, print media, not silk screening though.. Something along the lines of your 2 color logo would be ideal or you could just go one color and use the black and white logo... Rambling a bit sorry.

 

[bcos]

Thanks for sharing your experience with the metal meet. awesome people in this country. Just awesome.

 

[machine_punk]

Just a little input on your logo from what I know of logo design. I'm an architect but find myself doing allot of my own graphic design work and it is an interest so why not learn more.

Your logo will likely have to function as a black and white design. I know this
is kind of your hobby shop ( nothing derogatory intended )and maybe you can avoid it but professional logos always have a black and white version that is powerful because it appears on professional documents like invoices, checks, purchase orders, ect. Mostly higher volume documents.... Not saying that is your intention but branding is huge and if your putting in the effort take it all the way. I also feel that working with the logo in black and white forces me to refine the geometry further and typically lends to a more sophisticated design.

I personally would do an SLA print, then a urethane mold, then epoxy in the mold to make multiples. Finishing the SLA very nicey so the epoxy logos are near paint finish quality.

My add... Also your simple 2d version if printed in color could still posses some gradient shading to create high lights shadow creating a 3d representation of the two d logo. Good for websites, print media, not silk screening though.. Something along the lines of your 2 color logo would be ideal or you could just go one color and use the black and white logo... Rambling a bit sorry.

Thanks for the input! I agree with everything you said. When I start out producing a logo, I want to design something which looks good in a plain, 2D, black and white. I also want to be able to add some color and basic shading and get a simple 3D look (look at the You Tube logo for an excellent example of this...easily recognized in either the 2D or Shaded 3D version). I really only drew it in the 3D CAD program because that is what I have (and it will output 2D drawings...that is where I got the draft of the file which I used in Paint to create the brown and yellow 2D version).

Since the post above, I've decided on the 3D 'Wings' version, actually. It is, after all, the AEROdrome studio.

I'll have to look into getting a SLA version printed. I'm interested in trying the urethane molding procedure you mentioned.

Thanks for taking the time to comment!

Kev

 

[machine_punk]

The Fence Project

I have been BUUUSY! While I have been working on a few projects, here and there, I have not stopped to document them here on GJ.

First is the Fence Project. We have the 'good neighbor' style fences around every back yard in our neighborhood. You know the type: wooden privacy fence with alternating panels--half of the 'outside' of the fence on your side and half of the 'inside' of the fence on your side.

After 20 years of weather, the fence between my house and the neighbor's was actually falling down. The nail holes were rotting out and the fence was literally falling apart. Once we had an 8-foot gap in the fence, I decided it was time to do something. The section I needed to replace was a 55-foot (nearly 17 meters) section, between the yards, and the gates at the front for myself and the neighbor. After looking at the prices for having someone else do it, I decided to try it for myself. How hard could it be, after all? We had the money budgeted for the project, so I just had to go get the stuff. We called the "before-you-dig" number a few days before the start of the project and all the utilities gave us an "OK" to proceed.

This was a LOT more work than I anticipated. I made some changes to the design of the fence I took down. I think it is sad that people spend the time and effort to put up a beautiful fence, just to have it sagging in 5 years. I spent a little more on lumber and I believe my design is going to prevent sagging. I also made absolutely sure I used the correctly-coated nails. From the reading I did, it seems like galvanized nails end up staining the wood, if you use pressure treated wood. I used pressure treated wood for the uprights and the crossbars. The solid part of the fence is cedar.

I went with 6 feet (1.8 meters) between posts (instead of the previous/normal 8 feet (2.4 meters)). I also went with an 'inverted-L' shape for the crossbars, using two 2x4" (40mm x 80mm) boards, instead of the single 2x4" board, laid with the wide side horizontally. This, I believe, is the weak point in the way most people build a fence. There is no way two 1.5-inch-thick boards are going to support the weight of an 8-foot section of fence.

This project took me a LONG time to complete. Of course, as soon as I started, our rainy season began. And, of course, as soon as I finished, it cleared up and didn't rain for weeks. It was a mucky, sticky mess the entire time we were working on this project. The boys (15 & 18 years old) did begin to help about halfway through the project and things went MUCH faster from that point.

I was paranoid about getting the posts in the correct '3D space' (making sure they were in the correct, straight line and plumb in both directions). Overall, I was VERY pleased with the result. There is a lot to think about, when you are trying to get posts lined up and it would have really stunk to find out, after the concrete was in, that they weren't right. It took a lot of work with a mason's string line, a level and a water level, but it turned out beautifully.

This project was the opportunity to get a new tool too. I've been wanting a miter saw for a long time. With all the crosscutting involved in a fence, it was the perfect excuse to finally get one. I got a 10" DeWalt compound miter saw and it is a beautiful tool indeed. It was dead accurate, right out of the box. I will actually use this saw most often for crosscutting aluminum parts...but it can do wood too.

Not many 'in process' pics, but here are pics of the completed fence. This is from the front yard, with the MUCH wider gates on each side. The previous gate were very narrow, and the gas meter, with the smart meter attachment sticking out, is on this side of the house. I made these gates about 48" (1.2 meters) wide...

Aaah...finally, a fence I CANNOT see over. The top of the previous fence was below my chin height...which defeated the WHOLE purpose of a 'privacy' fence. This is MUCH better...

The gate on my side of the house. I still have horizontal boards to put at the bottom of the fence, to keep in/out animals. I have a problem with the way most gates are built too. I made the framework a little stockier and it 'hangs' from a 4x4 (80mm x 80mm) across the top. I bought lag screws to replace the skimpy screws which came with the hinges. The hinges were aligned with a plumb bob and they swing beautifully...

Kev

 

[machine_punk]

Finished the Art Caddy

Finished the Art Caddy in time for Thanksgiving 2014. It was intended as a Christmas gift for 2013. The adults in Mrs. Machine_Punk's family all choose names on Thanksgiving every year (American holiday...end of November) of the person for whom they will get a Christmas present that year. This project got a little stalled--obviously.

This is for an aunt, who is into fabric painting in a big way. I had no idea what sort of supplies might be involved in painting fabric, so I went down to the local hobby store and found fabric painting supplies. So, in the end, the dimensions I used were exactly right for the sorts of things she would be storing in the caddy.

Here is the original concept sketch for the art caddy...

Here is a pic of the partially completed caddy (as it was, for Christmas 2013). The handle section is not riveted to the base and the ends are not riveted in place yet. Mrs. Machine_Punk is kindly holding the handle in place, while I snap the photo. This is a good place to note an interesting construction point--the entire center section is bent from ONE piece of metal. Yes, that was exactly as hard as it sounds, but what's the point of doing something if it is easy (yes, the spacers/separators are riveted in, but the entire center section started as one piece and wraps around the handle)...

Here are a couple of pics of the finished piece. As it turns out, it only took about 5 hours to complete the project, from the place where I stalled, once I got started again. The biggest hurdle was mental. I think I had about 40 hours into this when I stopped and it was beginning to feel like it was going to take that much more. I made a boo boo in the riveting and went back and forth for months, thinking about whether I should just repair it and move on or start over. "Repairing it and moving on" is what I finally picked and I am truly pleased with the result. This is one project I REALLY had a hard time letting out of the studio. I might have to make myself one of these some day. As usual, I was in the studio until midnight, just hours before I was supposed to give it away as a present, so I had to take pictures at the family get-together...

And here is the picture of the boo boo. I messed up on driving about 4 rivets and drilled them out. In the process of drilling them out, I made huge, oval holes, which would have been way too big for the rivet size I was using. After months of trying to decide how to proceed, I built a simple patch, cut the rivets a little longer, and then just riveted it back together. All told, the fix took about 20 minutes and it was a 'non-event.'...

Most folks who do riveting for a job are usually repairing damage to already-riveted aeroplanes. I liked the look of this repair enough that I might actually start incorporating some sort of "patch" into EVERY project, even if there was no error. It would sort of become a "signature" for my projects.
Kev